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Got the bike picked up today for service. I'll report the bad news as it comes.

Less than six months out, now @gstallons . . . Time to put yer-anus in gear!

I better stay home . . .

I'm looking for back-up offers. I made an agreement with another member who wants the bike, but needs to sell something else first. If he doesn't buy the Nero Corsa by April 15, then it can go to someone else. I'd prefer to deal locally, as I have heaps of original bits and goodies that can go with bike at full price - but will cooperate with shipping if needed. The bike has a California black plate "V11LMNS" that can go with the bike if it's staying in California. Asking price is $8,000 with bags and racks or $7,500 without. Here is a thread I did about the bike, where you can see everything. I have barely ridden it since doing all the work - because I got busy with life and the bike had an intermittent starting problem. I've since replaced the battery with a Shorai, and it does start up now. But I think it still needs attention and a "decent tune-up" Reason for selling... I bought Kindoy's Griso, and am keeping my Scura, along with still too many other bikes. Hard choices... but somebody's got to go. I just put a set of factory Titanium pipes on the bike. These were a used set that I bought from another member. They're in better than average condition, with a couple small dings/rubs. While the above thread documents most everything I did, here is quick list of non-stock bits: Speedhut gauges (GPS speedo) Ghezzi-Brian Carbon Belly Pan Ghezzi-Brian Carbon rear fender Rizoma fluid tanks Pazzo shorty levers Remote clutch bleeder hose Extensive powder-coating Kit Racing Titanium pipes (high hangers come with, but I don't have the small adapters for the hangers) Shorai battery All three bags and rack could be available separately now for $650 if somebody wants them. Hepco Becker fully powdercoated racks, and all three bags - the cool ones with the Moto Guzzi logos, and the paintable panels on the side bags.

No worries mate, I got mine neary 30 years ago. Only if you want to drink more beer than you can get in within the 90 day standard Schengen area tourist visa. So @docc , come on over. I'll buy you one or three.

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/jqaaDrYFKFGHa4Ng/?mibextid=kL3p88

Recomended by the doc. I have 4 going, BEST sofar. Cheers Tom.

I hope someone has some good advice on getting your forks to seal. Back in the shop, I see I used 100 mm air gap on my early Sport 40mm Marzocchi, corresponding to 330 ml fluid per leg.

Good morning everyone, and Happy Easter. Yesterday's fork upgrade did not go well. After far too many hours of strain and frustration, I poured some rum and watched Supercross to relax! Without naming all the particular things that went wrong, I'll sum up by saying I think I need a right-side (when seated) fork leg. I replaced the seal, left if on it's side for 3-4 hours, no leaks. No sooner than it's mounted on the bike, it's leaking. It could be I nicked the seal however Andreani stated this particular fork leg had wear signs, on opposites sides. After it was measured, it proved to be well within specs. I'm not sure what to guess. He said the leg had very little fluid when he received it, however I never notice any leaks prior to sending to them. Compounding the problem, I used this time to finally mount my adjustable clip-ons, as they mount on the forks, between each triple tree. I put them on backward, so it was difficult to tighten the allen bolts. Then, I discover I'll have to purchase longer cables and lines, or be forced to reroute them. However to do this, it seems the headlight may have to come off. Before I know it, then entire front end will be on the workbench. My first item to deal with is the leg and seal. Shall I take it somewhere to help access the wear marks, and install the seal? GuzziTech is near, however pricey. I'm more than able to mount the seal, even determine if the leg is bent, and I'm all for saving money. Your thoughts?

You need that for beer?!

I had him in my mind as a Strat player. His sound is mostly "typical Strat", bearing in mind that he uses his fingers rather than a pick. Having said that, the intro to "Money for nothing" does sound more like something with a glued-in neck, and the video shows him playing a Les Paul. Looking at the pictures here, it seems that he does swap around a bit, but more Strat than anything else, if the selection of pictures is any indication. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mark_Knopfler

Titanium canisters not shown in this stunning view.

It's an awesome bike, The most rare and sought after of all the V-11's in my eyes..Even more difficult to find than the Rosso Corsa. I love that Black..and with all the tasteful little touches you always do to your bike..ie; Gauges,Powder coating, etc, and that un-obtainable Exhaust system..along with your attention to detail..it is a prize find. A number of years ago my first V-11..of the Seven I have owned , was your old Greenie which you went thru...An awesome bike that got me hooked on MG Someone will get a Winner!!!

It is an eccentric adjuster pin with a flat blade slot under a dome head lock nut. The way to adjust it correctly is to remove the cover and do it on the bench. Any other way risks the shifting issues you already have. You may need to remove the cover and stop the pin from rotating as you turn the locknut. Get your big boy pants on and dive in and remove the cover. Phil

The newest cars have a feature that vibrates and firms the steering wheel if you attempt to change lane when the adjacent lane is not clear and you omitted to check your mirrors, or the other vehicle is in your blind spot. When I took my car driving test, forgetting to use your turn indicator only once implied a retest. Here in Texas, I understand why drivers don't use it; If you indicate your intention to change lane, the driver in the destination lane will accelerate to close the gap in order to impede the maneuver. It makes sense to hide your intentions to prevent any negative reaction. I had once a driver on my left, who was in the "continue straight" lane, rolling down his window to politely ask if I could let him pass in front of me, in the right turn only lane. I answered you just had to put on your turn indicator, and I would have let you. His answer was: oh! I see; you are not from Texas then....

It would be a good time to groom, align, clean, and lubricate the entire external shift mechanism. Clean, grease, and adjust the tension on the shifter pivot bolt. Make sure the connecting rod length holds the shift extender parallel to the arm at the gearbox and the lock nuts are tight. Be certain the shifter lever does not strike the frame side plate on the downstroke . . . For the Chuckstud (yeah, I read it like that the first time through. ) superspring, contact super- @Scud:

OK I spent some more time with it last night and see what you're talking about - I thought the original post was suggesting polishing the wide flat sides of the pawl arm (which ideally don't ride against anything, hence my "Why do this?" question) but now I realize the filing/polishing is meant for the narrow surface on/around the 'hooks' that mate with the pins in the upper wheel and the intent is for it to slip over those pins easily. I filed and polished that surface. The pawl arm is pretty straight and I don't want to risk making it worse so I'll pay attention to where its riding on reassembly and bend/straighten accordingly if needed. I also noticed the roller wheel that rides in the detents on the upper gear wasn't riding anywhere near the middle of the detents so I bent that and its now riding like it should. Chuck replied and said there's no more LuckyPhil shift extenders available. Still haven't heard from Scud on the spring, hopefully he has one as this is ready to go back together once my lightweight Redline gear oil shows up and I want to see if its fixed! I checked and didn't see any evidence of the shift pedal/linkage hanging up on the frame plate or anywhere else so that wasn't causing my problems. Hopefully my last question - setting the clearance for the return limit eccentric adjuster - there's raised areas on the pawl arm that face that pin (red arrows in pic pointing at them). Am I setting the clearance between these areas and the pin at .030", or is that the measurement from the flat part of the pawl arm (between the arrows) and the pin? As always, thanks for the help!

It's too late, I've burned up the bike. I'm now a former V11 rider. I took off the starter. Unfortunately, I only unhooked the battery ground. The hot starter wire grounded on the shock adjuster when I was working on it. I smelled fire and got it free but too late. The electrics are dead. Totally. Fuses are ok but there's melted insulation under the side cover. So far as the shifter, I was able to get the adjuster off and backed it with an allen head and tighten it. Have no idea about that. Believe me, I'm sick about it.