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Docc, your reputation is renowned throughout the realm.

Apologies for the radio silence this past few weeks but had to travel to NZ to sell a house and pack shit up. Back in Seattle now. Just posting to say the donation to Medecins Sans Frontiers has been made, as requested by Mr. Roper. Pete, I can email you the donation confirmation if you like... the amount was $220 USD.

That sounds like the battery was not being charged and it ran out of electrons. That is a pretty good description of how a motorcycle stops when it is not charging the battery. It could be a bad ground, as mentioned. Or it could be an issue with the headlight circuit, which is the reference circuit for the R/R to charge the battery.

My Veglia instruments have been rejuvenated; Here's the before, and after the ministration of "CasadiMoto.com" in Germany. The Tachometer which was previously not steady is allegedly fixed. The pointers which color was washed out white were repainted orange. Cherry on top, the Odometer shows 33160 miles instead of 33162 when it left Texas!

And he deserves it!

My Tenni, which I still have, had cracks around the bolted centre (of the flywheel) when I replaced it with a dual plate clutch. I posted photos when I did the job. It would have broken apart if I hadn't replaced it. The bike had done about 13 000 miles at this point. Sent from my SM-S901B using Tapatalk

having some fun bringing back an Odyssey from near-death, and that looks to coming along fine (thanks Docc and all for the odyssey "bible" thread). But while doing so, with the odyssey out and on the rack for its rehab program, i popped in an old Shorai into the Lemans so i could continue to work on other issues while its up on the bike rack. I removed the Shorai from a KTM 990 at least 5 yrs ago, maybe 6+ yrs ago (i'll check my records), because at the time the KTM was having issues and that battery was drained too far, multiple times, and seemed shot. it had been in the bike at that point for a year or two already, so i can say with confidence that its now at least 7yrs old. it then became my shop battery, used for whatever oddball needs i had, including powering my clay pigeon "flinger", and other such honorable tasks. hit it about once a year with the li-ion specified 2a charger. so, popped it in, "backwards" and upright with seat off since the posts are on the wrong sides for the V11, and that thing was impressive. Many crank cycles on the bike, running the fuel pump repeatedley, lights, etc., with no charging intervals, and it just kept going. and when it was cranking, it cranked over the V11 much better than any of the other batteries in my (3) V11's (all odysseys). that Shorai was abused, and is old, but its punching hard still. Anecdotal, but I think noteworthy. put an EarthX in the big 1200 Ducati last fall, and its been impressive. Came back to my home airport one sunny but cold winter morning, to ride home, and it was right around freezing outside, and the bike was truly cold-soaked from days sitting there in those temps. Cranked slightly slower, but no problem. I do the thing where i turn on the key to let the battery "warm up" as is recommended, but in truth I've never seen much difference. thats either good or bad based on the outcome.... good in that i've never needed to, even when its getting too cold for most mortals to be willingly riding, but bad i suppose if i'm counting on some dramatic improvement in cranking ability when its super cold. but i haven't really given it a proper test, to be fair.

@Gmc28 I use a MotoBatt Fixed Load Battery Tester on my battery(es). It is 55 USD. https://www.motobatt.us/Tester-Motobatt-Fixed-Load-12V They have more expensive Testers now, less "bulky" and more powerful up to 2000 CCA, but the final result remain the same. You can check your battery under load, and you can check your charging system input. The load test is gold! tells you exactly the health of your battery.

Perhaps more relevant from that source, "Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain !"

My current phone is not very good for close up photos, but you can see the cracks. Sent from my SM-S901B using Tapatalk

No pressure on The Wizard !

my guess, bad ground.

I have grown to love the crinkly engine paint on my Scura…doesn’t bother me in the least. The flywheel was replaced by Mike at MPH several years ago with a single plate steel one…my original sounded hollow but I don’t recall seeing any cracks. Peace of mind however…it’s the smoothest and softest shifting bike of all of the Guzzi’s. I’m not racking up mega miles on it but for while I own it or if I ever pass it on to another owner at least the work has been done. I just equate the crinkly paint to some original patina…as long as it’s working mechanically perfectly I don’t mind a few minor aesthetic factory blemishes. With the lovely Alcántara seat I bought from Paul and some other farkles it’s a work of art in my view.

I derived this air gap for my riding preferences, combined with all of the other details of my suspension set-up. The fluid volume is derived from the air gap, not vice-versa. But only if you want to use the air gap as an additional tuning parameter. Many would say it is "splitting hairs" for the street. Yet, "the street" is all I gots.

I particularly liked the 3D printer, and that in the future, they will also take it to the races... another very interesting information, is the metrology part of the QA/QC. I remember when I was working with machines, all the metrology controls were manual.... This video is from GPMag, a French magazine exclusively reporting on MotoGP. The magazine is translated into English by Simon Crafar who collaborates to MotoGP. GPMag is also an official Dorna media. I am a subscriber and the Magazine contains plenty of technical and pilots' interview. It is a good magazine if you are interested in MotoGP.

Joe Roberts has not been that impressive, but he has done better with the switch in tires. Funny how a change like that can make all the difference. That is why I am not a fan of spec tires in GP racing. People say it levels out the playing field, but it really doesn't do that. A spec tire will always suit some people better then it suits others. The only question is who it suits and who it doesn't. As to Joe Roberts, while his results have not been that impressive, the same can be said for Fabio Quartararo. He was not that impressive in Moto2, but when signed to ride for the satellite Yamaha he was suddenly very impressive. In the end, Moto2 is not that good a predictor of how well someone will do in MotoGP. You never know, he could do much better in MotoGP for the right team. I am just happy he seems to be doing better on the Pirelli tires. Sounds like he prefers the Pirelli front to the Dunlop front. Based on my ancient knowledge of the Dunlop front (which is probably no longer valid) I think I get what he is saying. I prefer a front tire that is grippier, more planted, and if there is any slip involved I want that slip in the back. But the difference in tires alone can be a major factor in which series a particular racer does well in and which he doesn't.

Looking at that seat I was visibly wincing But then I scrolled on a few more pics… and quietly sighed with relief Phew! Now that’s custom

Also, if you've tried to run it with stale gas make sure you purge the line to the injectors and then replace the spark plugs as well. If it has fired, even briefly, on the old gas it may well of fouled the old plugs to the point where under stress in the combustion chamber during compression the spark will track down the insulator rather than jumping between the electrodes and won't ignite the mixture. This is very common, especially with modern fuels.

An important component of gasoline is the Aromatic "top end" without this engines often won't start at all. The top end disappears with age and especially heat. It's a waste of time troubleshooting any starting and running issue with years old fuel in the bike. Replace the fuel and the next cab off the rank is an injector clean and spray pattern check if it's been sitting around as long as you indicate and what you've previously done. You can remove the injectors and connect them to a 5 volt battery supply to hold them open and run them in a small and cheap ultrasonic jewellery cleaner which is essentially what the professionals do but you won't be able to test them for flow and spray pattern. Phil

Sheesh, Most thieves in my area couldn't get one started!!!

Probably more like they can't unload them quickly...

This is what my Guzzi tells me when I want to take a trip...

The advantage to the current system thats also been used in the automotive world for many many years in millions of cars is that it has it's own in built hysteresis. A magnetic float switch is subject to the vagaries of fuel sloshing and false indications or flashing warning light unless I guess you include a latching relay of some sort. The thermistor system is also ultra reliable and very compact and simple. The bulb lasts the lifetime of the vehicle essentially but the thermistor itself tends to drift or age to the point of failure after 25 years or so under the influence of fuel. The V11 issue is the instillation style of the thermistor due to the inaccessible fuel tank on the early bikes. It's tricky to design something other than whats original and the thermistor itself is pretty much impossible to replace on it's own. The later in tank bikes are easy and the thermistors are a dime a dozen, easily available and easy to replace. Phil

I think it takes from the Norton Commando, if I am not mistaken...

I could see a resistor in series with the LED light being able to reduce current flow enough that the LED doesn't light until the thermistor has heated up enough. But you may need to try various values for the resistor to find one that is suitably high enough to stop the LED from lighting when the thermistor is cool while allowing enough current through to allow the LED to light up when the thermistor heats up. Although I really don't know. I would rather go with a relay or a fuel level sensor that is straight up on or off. The thermistor does not seem well suited to an LED light, as the properties of the incandescent bulb seem to be an integral part of the circuit.

Ok now I understand, the reduced current which flows through the circuit when the tank is full and wouldn't light a bulb is still sufficient to illuminate the LED. A resistor in parallel wouldn't work, the easiest solution I can think of then is to use Roy's solution of a resistor in series to limit the current to the point that the LED won't iilluminate. Resistors are cheap, it doesn't cost much to try it and Roy even suggested a value which gives you a starting point. If it kept the LED lit on a full tank, step up the value. A relay in theory would also work, but matching the voltage to get the coil to pickup in the relay sounds like a bit of a nightmare, you'd also have to ensure it dropped out at an appropiate voltage too. I haven't read through the whole thread, but when I looked at that petcock you referenced on the SD page, my first thought was it looks awfully like a float switch, but I don't know Apologies for the misleading information, I'd not understood the problem fully.

I've seen a few interviews with these people over the last few years but nobody's listening for the reasons mentioned. People would rather listen to irrational teenagers. Does anyone know a rational teenager. Phil

So, update: She's back on the road w/ a temp fix. I got her put back together with the OG spacer and shims, well shim actually (total length is 113.1 mm). I've done 200+ miles, hit triple digit mph at least once, so far. No issues. I'm waiting on delivery of parts and will update once completed. Again, thank you everyone that pitched in on this. all your suggestions and help was invaluable. Cheers

I’ve spoken before about LiFePO on other posts Wouldn’t use anything else. As Bruce says ’Lead’s dead baby… Lead’s dead’

OEM Part Name: Fuse Block Moto Guzzi Part Number: GU01743030 Replacement Part Brand or Source: ATC & ATO available at Del City (see attached photo) $11 Part number or other identifier: "ATC & ATO Block - 8 way" Comments:. This is the exact OEM fuse block that Guzzi used in my 03 Le Mans