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that should say it all: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2004-moto-guzzi-coppa-italia-4/

As docc said, the air gap is the more important measurement for fork oil. Whatever amount of fork oil it takes to get the air gap where you want it is what you need. It is entirely possible the factory volume spec for fork oil is right for someone. But it could easily be wrong. For me, standard practice when taking forks apart is to measure the air gap, and add fluid to set the air gap back to that measurement when re-filling the forks.

My son took these with his phone. We went to 6 flags my other son's treat

I derived this air gap for my riding preferences, combined with all of the other details of my suspension set-up. The fluid volume is derived from the air gap, not vice-versa. But only if you want to use the air gap as an additional tuning parameter. Many would say it is "splitting hairs" for the street. Yet, "the street" is all I gots.

2002 Lemans with white Veglias Shot in the dark, anybody have a angle drive that they will part with

There have long been concerns, and reports, of cracking or failures of the aluminum flywheel mated to the single plate clutch on the 2002 Scura, 2002 Tenni, and (perhaps) the 2001 Rosso Mandello. To clarify: it is not a clutch failure, but cracking of the flywheel around its mounting to the crankshaft potentially progressing to separation and extensive damage. Many have preemptively converted their "single plate clutch"/ aluminum flywheel to the V11 double plate/steel flywheel or installed an aftermarket RAM clutch/flywheel unit. Those solutions are detailed elsewhere and may be linked here. This topic is meant to chronicle reports of actual failures.

more with pics

That is pretty accurate. Less air gap means the compression curve of the air that is there is steeper, so it will have a higher spring rate quicker. Keep in mind that a fork is, for all intent, a sealed system. The oil doesn't compress, so all the compressing has to be done by the air above the oil. That means the air above the oil acts like an air spring. Less air above the oil means that compression curve of the air spring is steeper. More air above the oil means the compression curve of the air spring is more gradual. If the air gap is small enough it can make it impossible for the forks to compress all the way. Been there, done that. A little more oil / less air can make the forks stiffer, especially towards the end of their travel. Less oil / more air can make the forks softer, especially towards the end of their travel. The effect of different oil levels / air gaps will be most noticeable towards the end of the forks travel. It can be a useful tuning tool, either on the track or on the street. It is as important in my opinion as getting the right spring rate.

Easy to check by carefully prying the fuse block up from the isolator blocks (no need to fiddle with the fasteners) and be certain those four hidden spade connectors are clean and tight (Caig DeOxit® is our friend!). They supply power from the Ignition Switch to the fuses for the fuel/ignition and ECU relays.

We have an Anti-Gravity battery on the wife's Ducati Monster. Not a Guzzi, but it uses the same style charging system the V11 does. So far no issues. And no need to swap the R/R. I do like the Re-Start feature.

there are enough to make me swap it out. another unfortunate the pics are gone from this post. I believe this one was the one that blew out the bell housing part of the engine case. If you saw this photo you would be convinced. It may have been reproduced in another thread. Search more, it goes waaay back. Exploding clutch, exploding flywheel, etc another

Perhaps more relevant from that source, "Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain !"

Yes, my EnerSys OptiMate will change to the lower amperage as well. Probably fine for a "healthy" PC545, but I prefer the manual method, with voltage monitoring, for rescues.

What fork seals are you using? I use these Ariete ARI.023 and the Y type dust seals with the spring on the outside. The dust seal will be something like 40x54.4x 4.6x14. It's written on the seal so you can X ref with Ariete p/n. I also use a very thin home made plastic sleeve for seal protection on the fork slider at the bush end to fit the new seal onto the slider. Make sure you tap the bush in before the seal and spacer. Don't fit them together. The seal should just push into the fork stanchion with a firm downward push on the seal driving tool. No need to hammer anything. Make sure your seal driver isn't a style that pushes down on the critical sealing lip area of the seal. I have a seal driver that I can't use on some seal s even though the driver is the correct size because it's OD isn't quite enough to not interfere with the sealing lip area. Phil