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The company manufacturing them promised they would be ready on April 29th. As soon as I have an update, I will communicate it.

Good info but modifying the std tap with Viton orings seems a more elegant solution. There's enough pipes and connections under the tank as it is for mine. I really dont want any more. Phil

Another couple of months to see this sign again! Some of the best roads in the country up in this area! Now I recall we spent the night in Lowell at the Wilderness Motel & Cafe. Fond memories of a delicious Huckleberry milkshake there that night! The scenery is amazing...fresh air, curvy roads, forests everywhere. Just paradise!

You may like this video;

Looks as though the various parts aren't expensive. You might have to be the guy that takes a shot at figuring out a different route. Worse that could happen is you're out a few bucks and a few hours, and then come back and tell Phil he was correct. Honestly. I'd be tempted if my stock petcock didn't work so well.

If I were to do that, I would use Guzzidiag. It has a function to activate the injectors manually. This allows one to see if they are working, how much they are injecting (catch it in a glass and measure the volume), and what the spray pattern looks like (put a piece of paper in front of the injector whilst it is being activated). During the process, as the ignition is on all the while, it should also be possible to see if they are leaking, I reckon.

Seem to recall the same issue on the Cagiva Gran Canyon (ducati 904, with external fuel pump), and we all used what we called the "sharkbite", which was the brand name of the 90 deg copper reducer synonymous with what LaGrasta shows above. I think Ducati used a custom hose, and we changed to the reducer fitting, and in doing so actually gained additional leeway in how the hoses routed (they were down low, bottom front of engine). Seems it might yield the same benefit here, where the issue Phil is wisely pointing out might be alleviated with use of a 90 deg fitting coming from the petcock. maybe not.... would have to look closer at the limited real estate available, but i'd think the small hose leaving the petcock could point inward toward centerline of engine, then the 90 would turn the flow straight forward, and attach to a nearly straight run of the larger diameter hose to the pump.

I put two instead of 1+, since I set a counter that can only count numbers and not alphanumerical characters....

When the curve ahead turns into a hairpin and the road turns back against itself, then you know your having a good time !!!

Monday morning update. I successfully replaced all of my fuel line clamps with actual FI clamps. So now my leaking hoses are taken care of, my new riser handlebars are installed, and my newly fitted Andreani forks are ready. So I crank the ignition, it starts for a moment or so then dies. I crank until the battery is dead. I charge the battery and upon retrying to start it, I notice I never unplugged the fuel line to the regulator. I immediately realize the worst of it. By repeatedly cranking a plugged line, I blew the fuel pump. Ordered a new one, due here in a week. #fail

I received the Snugs-Moto and did a quick test run to Louisiana and back! I can only be dithyrambic about the experience. You can see they are personalized with my name engraved in the molding. 1st, they address the wind noise problem because they are before all plugs. Also, no more of the interference with the audio from said wind noise. You get crystal clear audio. I don't listen to music when I ride, only to the audio guidance from the GPS. My phone remains in my pocket. Now, I think Snugs-Moto have a very good setup, perfect for my application. No contraption on the side of my helmet. Although, I made a mistake while wearing them. I had left the speakers of my "Sharktooth" installed, and they pressed on my ears, which made the helix painful against the cartilage. I also had two disconnects: one with a seamless immediate reconnection, the second one, I had to stop and do a power off and on cycle to reconnect. The controls are on the "open dog collar", and not as easy to reach and manipulate as the Cardo and Sena that sit on your helmet. But as I don't use the controls other than before and after the ride, it is not an issue for me. Yesterday, Saturday 20th of April, I went to CycleGear and tried various full face helmets with the Snugs-Moto. I realized that they were much more comfortable, and I could not feel the Snugs while in them. So I removed the speakers in my Shark full face, and no more issue. Also, I don't think they are a mesh system. You would not be able to communicate with a pillion or other riders as other comm. allow.

Just got this message from Ken: "We have 3 rooms open from [September] the 6th to the 8th. All are "standard" and priced at $129.00. Thank you so much for sharing! I have your flag ready to hang!"

And more, from our member @OzMatt: https://mgprotos.com/

These are what you use on FI hoses. Norma cobra clips. Compact, easy to install, easy to remove, re useable, stainless steel, bullet proof sealing, colour banded for size identification. They sell a special tool to install them but it's not required in reality although I made up one using an old worn out pair of combination pliers for convenience sake. Purple banded size is what you need on 5/16 FI hose. I've been using them for many years and they work perfectly and look compact, professional and tidy. Worm drive clamps are horrible shit looking things. Bulky and just awful to look at. https://www.iq-parts-shop.com/en/norma-cobra-hose-clamp.html Phil

The one that broke was OEM original, or at least that’s my assumption. I only bought the bike last fall so I don’t know much about its service or repair history.

I got the flywheel out of my RM crack tested last year. No cracks found. Bikes done at least 88k (2nd speedo)

I had to put a small bend in mine to clear the throttle linkage. Will try and take a photo tonight.

Riddle seems to be solved - Angle Drive But I still do not understand.. It turned by hand, it turned by rolling motorcycle. It turned cable going down road disconnected from speedo. But when I connected cable to both different speedometers it would work for about 4 miles and start fluttering and quit. No idea whats wrong with angle drive other than a new one seems to have corrected problem.

The G5 isn't running real well at the moment. Cleaned spark plugs and treated to same snake oil fuel today. She runs pretty good with the choke on, but backfires and sputters with choke off. Soon as she's running well, goes on the sale block. Takes up too much space and just too many other bikes to ride. At the moment, she serves well as a foot rest.

Well, ok.. I'll photobomb you.. We were in the path of totality, so had a cookout/eclipse party. My last apprentice, Austin..now the Indiana MGNOC rep, took these pix. As we approached totality, I went to the house and got my birding binoculars. It "appeared" that we could see eruptions around the corona. The temp dropped 12 degrees, colors changed, and the breeze we had been having dropped to dead calm. Crickets cricketed. I thought, "I wonder what it would look like from the air?" Quickly opened the hanger door, did a preflight, grabbed my flying jacket, silk scarf, and aviator cap, kicked the tires and lit the fires. The spring greens were a different shade, and it looked like a wall of rain 2 miles to the west. The above picture is looking west. When we got there, though, it still looked like rain ahead. Not a ripple in the air. Awesome. You can see some of the effect in this picture taxiing in. Shadows appeared to be cut out of cardboard, and the colors were still "off.: Truly a once in a lifetime experience.. it was good for me.

Got the thread gauge and the vernier out. Mine are M20 x 1.0

Amen. Way, way back octane choice had a more visible effect in some ways (pinging, fuel econ), in my opinion, but that was way back, when carburators were the norm and ECU’s were not, etc. 25 plus yrs now I’ve run only regular in all my Italian and Germanic machines, 2-wheelers and 4, with zero differences other than a lower fill-up cost. LT, the somewhat well-known Ducati guru, says he never runs premium in any of his machines. I run it only in my less-ridden V11’s now, but only because it’s the only ethanol free gas I can get. All my other machines, and even the Guzzi’s on a road trip, just run regular. Sorry PO, Daveguzzi1, that we digressed into an octane discussion! But mixed in here is the good stuff/advice on the “decent tune up” to establish the baseline, so more specific troubleshooting ideas can be focused. Your choice to run 100 octane may as Phil says be making things either worse, or less clear.

Could there actually be three sizes of "pins": M20, M22, and M24? For those concerned about the excessive weight of the pins, I put the pair of M22 pins on the scale: 191 grams (about 6.75 ounces).

I dealt with the two different sizes when I swapped the side plates/pork chops/stilettos a couple years ago. I measured both swing arm pivots with a digital caliper at 19.9 mm and 21.8 mm. These numbers relate to the outside diameter of the threads. I would call them M20 and M22, respectively.

Hoping to learn more about the origins of the Moto Guzzi SpineFrame, this publication does not disappoint! All this time, I thought the original Spine Frame was a "Daytona" 8V Hi-cam. Not so! The first SpineFrame Guzzi, the V11 Sport prototype so-to-speak, was this 1987 2V. Also, the first SpineFrame: "Made in America!"

Ok Thanks for the insights. I have gone back and checked. It seems the play is between the gearbox and the output shaft. The UJ seems to be fine! Thanks again, Paul.

Speaking with the seller in Florida. Guzzi 1947

At some point, @Guzzi 1947, a dedicated thread with this Tenni joining your alluring stable (with pics!) would be most welcome . . .

In discusssion on the bike. Many thanks for the lead.