Leaderboard

When I was 16, with my motorcycle driver's license in my pocket, earned on a Honda CB350, came the tedious choice of picking a first motorcycle. When you are 16 your budget is obviously limited. There was that super large dealership, multi-brands, named Robo from the owner's name, Jean Robo; there, was one of the MV Agusta 750 S; I think it was three times the price of anything else. Yet, I walked the 30 minutes to and from every Saturday, salivating in front of all that splendor congregated under the same roof. I found a link containing photos and printed ads of the place. As can be seen, he was trading absolutely all the motorcycle brands, shameless... https://concessions.lesmordusdugalet.fr/index.php/ile-de-france/1127-antony-robo The dealership is long gone, but this was like going to EICMA every Saturday and sometimes Sunday mornings.... Almost all the bikes shown below, the vintage ones, must have been on sale at Robo at some point in time. Not the Bimota Tesi;

The voltage at idle is a little low in my opinion, but that it goes up to 14.6 volts at 3k rpm says the reg/rectifier is doing its job. The low voltage at idle would more likely be down to a lack of voltage output in the alternator. That could be from a low idle or a reflection of the generally weak design of the Italian charging system. It could also be an issue with the battery itself, either being weak or needing some conditioning, causing the battery to not be able to hold the charge it was getting when the rpms were up. But honestly, I would not worry about it as long as it is working that well.

I've always marveled at how a proper Englishman can be so excited and so boring at the same time. Great video, though!

Is this a single indicator light on the dash that doesn't differentiate on LH or RH flasher? If it is and it's wired the same way as most of the other Guzzis of late 90s and early 2000s that I'm aware of (perhaps more models), then I'd check all the earths/grounds on the opposing flasher and all the connections on both indicator circuits and the wiring to the bulb itself. It won't work with an LED unless modified and I'd imagine strange things might occur if the bulb wattage isn't standard either It's a rather fiendish circuit where voltage is applied to the side selected and because the current is low it earths/grounds through the indicator circuits on the other side. Example you select LH flasher voltage is applied to the bulb via the LH circuit and it earths/grounds through the RH circuit. The upshot is that everything in both circuits and the warning lamp too,has to be good, connections, earths/grounds etc for it to work as intended I apologise that it doesn't answer your question precisely, but it's the best I can do for now Oh and if it has a seperate lamp for left and right ignore this post John

A few weeks to go until the Cedar Vale rally. Will pick up a couple more stops on the Grand Tour of Texas along the way, possibly ride up with a friend from Terrell for the 2nd half of the trip. All Guzzi's or other brands welcome...welcome all.

@docc and everyone else that helped out on this , just wanted to say thanks! My new correct relays came in today and after swapping them out I'm seeing 13.3-13.4v at about 2500 rpm. I won't have a chance to take it for a test ride until tomorrow but can I operate under the assumption for now that with it putting out over 13v while running that the system is charging as it should? I have put 5 extra relays in the tool bag just to be safe.

If you have intermittent operation of the indicators, then you have bad connections or bad grounds. If both sides flash at the same time after fitting LEDs, you need to modify your dash lamp circuit. See: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/30710-signal-indicators/?do=findComment&comment=291012

@LaGrasta thanks ! I picked up a new Odesy from Harper's so I was also playing it safe for the battery's sake as it was not inexpensive. Riding looks bad here after today but great next week so I'll put some miles on it!

I can confirm this true: It won't work with an LED unless modified

I agree with @docc, let it be. I don't recall what battery you have, but some have circuits to prevent overcharging. My advice, ride regular. This alone helps many potential issues; including our mental state.

https://www.aliexpress.com/p/order/index.html#:~:text=12V Automotive Relay Tester Electronic Car Relay Tester for General Motors Battery Tester Alternator Analyzer Diagnostic Tool https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800991782345.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.202.21ef1802GZg59K&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa Two items of note. These are the relays I bought, so affordable I wanted to give them a try. They have been in my bike for a couple thousand miles, no problems at all. In addition, I also bought this relay tester. Works like a charm.

Expected Delivery by Saturday 27 April 2024 by 9:00pm

Yep check and check. However I will will say that the tach would only do that cycling issue when the bike was going down the road. Not at idle. Tomorrow I'll take the bike out and make sure the tach is better.

amen. Or the sign on the way down (southwest), the yellow caution sign that shows the squiggly curve symbol and says "next 78 miles", or some such thing. delish.

You were mistaken: those are jugs!

This is classic Relay#2 (complicated by Relay#1) failure. This compromises the tach and the charging reference.What variety of relays are under the seat, @motoguzzikc? Replace all your relays with the currently available High Current 5-pin referenced in this thread answer:

Cheaper, check connections from alternator. Bulletconnectors and all kind of horrible connections. Mine started to flip the tach, then misfiring and dead. Melted connectors. Cheers Tom.

Before you do that, make sure the headlight is working. In the headlight there are two bulbs, one standard low beam / high beam headlight bulb and one running light bulb. It is easy to mistake the running light bulb being on for the headlight working. If the headlight bulb isn't working the regulator won't properly charge the battery. Because it uses the voltage on the headlight circuit after the headlight bulb to measure battery voltage. The bulb can be burnt out or the circuit might be off (blown fuse or faulty relay). You may need a new regulator, but make sure before going that way.

All I did was buying some cheap relays for led lights, even adjustment for rate. Was it 10$ for 5, so how will they last ? Cheers Tom.

I believe those resistor pairs will allow the use of the stock mechanical flasher. They have since started to make digital flashers that cost less than the resistors. The resistor pairs will not solve the indicator lamp problem. You need two indicator lamps, one for each side. I kind of like the ones installed in mirrors, some place I'll see them.

Has anyone tried an inline resistors with the LED turn signals to regulate the flashing? I am contemplating this upgrade and have a few of these laying around. https://www.af1racing.com/OXOF374-Resistor-Pair

When I fitted LED indicator lamps, I needed an electronic flasher, since the current draw was too low to make the original flasher work. Then I found that the indicators on both sides flashed at the same time. Evidently the dash indicator light was providing a ground return through the other side lamps. I had to rewire the dash light as shown in the pics. EDIT: The final version has 18,000 mcd (millicandela) LEDs with 360Ω resistors.

I am so sorry to share that our member Mikko passed away unexpectedly January 10, 2024. He was an extraordinary fellow and I will surely miss him. R.I.P. Mikko