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Well not actually *New* new but new to me. For years I've been wanting a Mana GT. This is the model with the full touring fairing as opposed to my 'Plain Jane' NA model. Well a couple of weeks ago one with a blown motor came up in Sydney for $950 so I bought it on a punt. Went and collected it last Wednesday and sadly, it's a shitter. Not worth me swapping the motor out of my NA into but only useful for spares. Not really a worry though as it came with a set of brand spanking new Sport Corsa tyres on it. They must of been put on the day the motor blew they're that new! That's half what I paid for the bike right there! Anyway I decided it was time to stop shilly-shallying around and found this on Gumtree Super clean, 40,000km and owned by an ex-customer of mine. Problem is it's in Perth so I have to get it shipped. My Givi luggage off my NA will bolt straight on and I'll be set for my touring steed for the rest of my days! It also means I can sell my Red Griso which was going to be set up as a tourer but the Mana makes far more sense.

After being in hibernation since 2006 , I got the red frame out and started riding it . The test ride didn't go well . I didn't realize the starter button was stuck and I got about 1 1/2mi. down the road with it running awful and died . Starter was HOT and battery was dead . A buddy stopped and had a jump box , I started it and made it home. Let it charge and took it to work the next two days. I still sputtered and ran awful at fixed throttle and rolling off throttle. I was explaining the symptoms to my guru when I realized what it was . Got my meter and checked the spark plug wire to ground resistance. OPEN . Went into the shop and installed a new plug cap , checked resistance and GOOD . Don't remember the # , somewhere around 5-6k. Installed both caps to keep from having one Champion and one NGK . I do (occasionally) have standards. Now it starts immediately and no misfires at all . Next week it becomes my daily rider. One more thing 34lbs. PSI is much better than 4/front and 11/rear in the tires. NOTE to self : check air pressure , I don't care how good they look . As mature as I have felt on the V-Strom I am meant to ride the V-11. P.S. My knees did bend enough to get my feet on the pegs. It has been 10+yrs. Now to get the fuel pump to work on the red frame and I will be ready to go ! It took me 7 days to find this thread or I would have posted much sooner. =

FYI , when I was trying to figure out the misfire on the black frame bike you can do this very quickly . I used an analog meter set on the highest scale of resistance and went from the HT lead to the frame and checked for continuity . This verified (infinite) an open circuit. I unscrewed the cap and checked it . These caps have resistors and have a different r value . Since it was open I knew I had found my problem. Installed new cap and tested again . Around 15k , so I knew everything else is good. The factory wire is a solid core and should be less than 10 ohm resistance . When you add the secondary value of the ign. coil to the test it will be more . It will be unusual for both sides to be messed up . Some service manuals give the primary / secondary r values. 99% of the time the secondary fails on a ignition coil aka transformer in a A.C. circuit. Remember this. If you are not sure about what you are doing or if you are not doing it correctly , go to the other cylinder and check your work . It is seldom both sides will be messed up .

Oh , this was a project . The original owner was an "artist" & I had to go through a lot to de-personalize this bike . It was worth it .

Both well worth the money . Cheers Tom.

Slim V11, chunky Griso

Washed the squashed bugs off these 3 last weekend

Gentle ride down the A60 to Loughborough scrubbing in new tyres

Hope this link works- bought this one for to carry on the Himalayan. Used it to pump up both tires after making new, pleasantly surprised at the speed and volume. Both tires from flat didn't use a third of the battery. Also can use as a battery pack for your phone, etc. https://www.amazon.com/Airmoto-Tire-Inflator-Air-Compressor/dp/B094DMH7ZM?pd_rd_w=6eqO3&content-id=amzn1.sym.b46c8fe2-d558-44b6-a291-82096c829da9&pf_rd_p=b46c8fe2-d558-44b6-a291-82096c829da9&pf_rd_r=MSHTGQ06R0979TDTF2B6&pd_rd_wg=Jv8si&pd_rd_r=ddf2d170-372b-4533-8338-211ce6419cd8&pd_rd_i=B094DMH7ZM&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_40_nped_pr_t&th=1

Looks like it worked out . . .

PS, as far as loudspeakers go, I quite like these https://www.dbaudio.com/global/en/products/series/sl-series/ksl8/ At home, I have a pair of these https://www.genelec.com/previous-models/1031a but I must say, I'm more interested in how they sound than how loud they can be.

George Jones will be there !

That price is what I paid for mySport!

Oh Ok. I use air compressors professionally and they have a collecting tank. I've always called those little ones electric air pumps, or tire inflators. I've never owned one. I'll bet the Enduro guys have some trick ones, as they often deflate tires for off road and reinflate for the road home.

I beg to differ. Decibels are a relative unit, and logarithmic. That means that 2 dB does mean a significant difference in sound energy. Whoever can be bothered can look here, for instance: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Decibel https://www.quora.com/How-many-dB-decibels-represent-a-doubling-or-halving-of-the-sound-volume 2 dB difference is a difference that the untrained ear registers as "that is louder". As far as exposure to noise goes, it can be quite relevant, depending on how loud the environment is and how long the exposure is. 97 dB, probably dBA, is quite loud. 99 dB is very loud. To get it into perspective, look here. I don't know how reliable the publisher of the site is, but the numbers more or less correspond to that which I have seen elsewhere https://www.asha.org/public/hearing/loud-noise-dangers/#dangerous Any wonder. According to the information on their site, they dampen by 30 dB at 2 kHz. That is really a lot, and 2 kHz is a frequency that is really important for the transmission of information (speech, awareness of the surroundings, whatever...). So an ear plug that dampens that much will indeed provide good protection, but will also isolate you from your surroundings. By the way, this is nothing more than marketing bullshit. I believe I wrote in another thread that wind noise is not a single frequency, but rather very broad band, i.e the entire range of audible frequencies is involved. You simply can't filter out "the wind noise frequency". All you can do is dampen everything. How isolated you feel then depends on the "frequnecy response" of the filters. If they are neutral (flat), you will still feel like you are in touch with the surroundings to an extent. The Moto Safe ones are anything but flat. Their figures show that they dampen significantly more in the high frequencies than in the mids and lows. Particularly the difference between the damping at 500 Hz and 2 kHz is extreme. They must sound like shit.