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If you simply roll off the throttle it simply slows down with moderate engine braking if in one of the 'Auto' modes. If you 'Change down' using one of the selectors it will move the pulley to whichever ratio is appropriate but with a higher engine speed so you get more braking. Hit the shifter again and it will move the pulleys to a higher point again and you can do that until it detects that going 'Down' another ratio will cause a dangerous over-rev. When the TCU detects that will happen it won't shift any further and let's you know by sticking a bloody great exclamation mark up on the dashboard screen! If using the 'Faux Manual' mode rather than there being a tacho there is a row of lights that illuminates across the top of the dashboard to warn you of the fact you're approaching the rev limiter and in the lower ratios as soon as they start appearing you'd better be ready to shift up as hitting the rev limiter with the throttle wide open can be, errrr? *Exciting* to say the least. I have no idea really what sort of engine speed the lights actually start appearing at. Only thing I know for sure is that in fully automatic 'Touring' mode the engine isn't spinning very fast at all when you're just cruising along at 100-110kph/60-70mph and it's very smooth and comfortable. To make more rapid progress, for overtaking say, simply crack the throttle open and the engine and transmission take over and you'll quickly find yourself doing the old 'Ton' with little effort. If you want it to it will happily cruise at 90+mph all day but it's not its forte. Just bimbling along at that 65-75mph zone is super relaxed and pleasurable.

This fuel injection system on this bike is hokey-pokey compared to all other f.i. bikes. It uses a min. of inputs and a hilarious output. The pcm is mapped (apparently for Lake Como only) for nowhere on the North American continent. Now , for good advice , post everything going wrong with the bike and how long it has been going on . Everything you have done , all parts you have installed and has anything helped ? Please read my story about plug wire caps and don't be afraid to install new spark plugs . NGK is my plug of choice on this bike . Learn how to synch throttle bodies and adjust TPS sensor. If all of this is done perfectly get w/someone about "remapping" your pcm. IF you have an aftermarket module like a PowerCommander piggybacked on this bile , remove it and see what happens . Personally I hate these things. If all this checks out , it's time to remove the injectors and have them professionally cleaned and flow rated to match each other. This is a job because everything is Loctited together. I suppose someone thought of this as an assembly . Keep us posted . We want you to be happy with your bike.

Yup. The 'False Manual' mode simply moves the pulleys to one of seven positions/diameters and then the engine accelerates the vehicle until the next *Ratio* is chosen. In the full *Auto* modes the E-CVT simply allows the motor to wind to its maximum torque point, (In 'Touring'.) and then allows the pulleys to do the accelerating, (Up to a point.). With 'Sport' it simply moves the pulley take-over point up the rev range. 'Rain' mode is a sort of wimpy *Soft Cock* mode where turning the throttle doesn't seem to do anything much at all! In all honesty I see little point in 'Sport', 'Rain' or the false manual option. I just leave it in 'Touring' and ride it like the huge 'Twist and Go' it is. The only good aspect of the 'Manual' option is that even in the full-auto modes you can use the selector paddles or gear lever to 'Change Down' ratios to take advantage of engine braking at higher rpm. Useful on steep hills etc. Really though it's an absolute joy to ride in a relaxed manner. I've done some long, long days on both my NA in Oz and my GT in the US and got off feeling far fresher than I would of on a 'Conventional' motorbike. As I've said before, like Griso a Mana isn't for everybody. That doesn't mean it isn't a damn fine motorbike. Needless to say after saying I was going to leave it stock I'm already buying Andreani fork cartridges for it! I just can't help meself........

Though this trip is on my '04 BMW GSA, I thought I'd post any updates here, and if anyone's along the way- particularly in the US- I have a pretty lazy schedule until Bozeman, MT. I'll be meeting friends in Bozeman July 4th, and leaving EP something like 5 days before. I plan to go through Taos, NM to the https://cumbrestoltec.com/ steam excursion, wander up to Moab- where I'll spend at least a whole day, or 2 if it suits. Then to West Yellowstone, and into Yellowstone NP with friends for day before heading to Vancouver. We'll up the coast-ish, then return through the Mountain route. After the return to Bozeman, I have to decide whether to ride East to Michigan and Ohio before breaking off (they're coming from Maine) and then whether back to EP or home to Florida. Decisions, decisions... Camping at all opportunities minus bear exposure. I may post up some of the prep, gear etc. since I have to leave EP in +100*F and Alaska may be near freezing.

To be sure, I'm not riding the 'Sport. I'm riding my '04 BMW GSA Adventure. With new tires, a new driveshaft, a new rear drive main bearing, new brake pads, new oil, new shock absorbers... I don't expect to use the phone for anything other than texting once we leave the US. I have a Garmin Montana 600 with new battery and learning Garmin Basecamp to have up and return routes mapped out without requiring cell service, and on a device I can leave up in the rain. My trusty old Aerostich is a size small, so I found a thrice-worn Klim Badlands set that's actually a bit big, but I *really* hate being cold so it will accomodate layers and the electric jacket underneath. New Shoei Hornet X2 ADV helmet- which BTW is better in the wind with the visor than my old GT Air... Can't carry a pistola into Canada so it'll be a pawnshop K-Bar and bear spray. We are camping whenever we can, but there won't be no jankey remote wildlife adventures. We'll carry no food beyond gas station snacks and ditch anything before camping. I might carry in the US and hand the hardware off to a friend in Port Angeles, WA before crossing. Haven't decided. I've assembled a trauma kit, I've meant to carry one travelling by auto for a long time but this makes it do-or-don't. A couple band-aids, iodine, and tylenol should take care of anything less. Mosquito nets for over helmet stops at construction, etc. I've never been a road camper on a long trip, so I'm packing minimally but thoroughly. <shrug>

It occurs to me to get connected to GuzziDiag and select all of the pertinent sensors to assess if their readings look "within normal limits", especially once warmed up . . .

Just back after making some stops for the Moto Guzzi Grand Tour of Texas. I like your plan, as I have penciled an excursion to Alaska myself. On the Quota though, and not on a Le Mans. You have not specified a timetable, or what would be the intended duration of the trip. I suspect about 15 to 21 days? I am sure you already know that, but just in case, Alaska.org helps you with planning your trip. I have been to Alaska in 2022 to see the Northern Lights in March and I thought that riding a motorcycle there would be very challenging. Obviously, July should not have any snow. But I made some notes that cell phone coverage outside the cities is not consistent... some of the roads I took, were with very little traffic. So should you have a breakdown, keep that in mind. Wildlife. Well, in March, no bear of any kind. I had a friend from Anchorage who told me he would never go "bush" without a firearm of some sort and bear spray. The firearm would be a last resort, but you know as well as I do, if you walk upon a sow and her cubs, you will face immediate retribution. I had the opportunity to see a female and her cubs in Yellowstone park, but the rangers were there to prevent any overly daring selfie from the tourists. She, the bear, did not seem to be fazed by the attention and the traffic jam her and the cubs had caused. She did not seem belligerent at all, although the rangers, each had their bear spray in hand. But that was Yellowstone. I do believe Alaska is a different matter, where bears do not encounter human beings on a daily basis. I think you may want to consider renting a satellite phone if you are going to get off the beaten path in Alaska. They are not expensive to rent (did not use to be) as long as you don't call. I have not checked on the current rates since the late 2000. But in case of a breakdown or an accident, you will be happy to be able to at least call someone. "

The only Honda DTC bike I've ridden is the 1100, that was many years ago. It was blindingly fast and you could just *Feel* it was horrifically complex. It was utterly soulless as well. The Mana can seem a bit anodyne at times but the Honda was, for all it's blinding speed, just dull. We don't get, and never have, the DTC 750 twin in Oz. While the Mana is electronically complex the electronics are very reliable, my NA has given me no issues in 80,000km. The actual CVT transmission is very simple to work on, especially if you have the factory tools for belt replacement, (I do.) The reprogramming after belt replacement has now been sorted by the Guzzidiag crew so nobody needs to rely on a dealer any more for that!

Mmmmm. AVO ? I just Googled it . Now to eBay to get one ! I have been bit using a DVOM looking for V and R in a circuit. Reason : impedance . The DVOM will not load the circuit . An analog meter will. If the circuit will support a test light or an analog meter , I will get a true reading. I had my @ss handed to me diagnosing the A.C. on a Kubota tractor on an island in the Miss. River after about 4 days getting 13v dc at the compressor coil . I put a test light on the + wire of the connector to see the V disappear. Put the DVOM back on the + wire and my 12v reappeared . I found the contacts of the temp control or relay were bad . New part and we were in business . I use a DVOM for entertainment purposes only or when I need an exact "value". BTW , I have two Simpson 260 meters and a SnapOn MT 406 along w/a bunch of things my dad had . It seems funny when you pull these out and people don't have ANY idea what you are holding ! Also , the only time I get offended (spelled perturbed) is when things are not going well w/the conversation .

Ha ha Mine was a bit smoky this morning..... It's 1 degree here and when my wife lit the fire the flu being COLD meant house filled with smoke, so coffee had a wee smoky edge to it! Cheers

Not sure if we can make this a 'sticky' thread or not... This is the second time I've seen this scam - the other one was on a different motorcycle related forum like this one. I posted a "want to buy" (for the V11 rear rack - thanks for the tips there) and got a response from someone using the scotsimson01 ID: Hey buddy, I recently got some items from Carlos and he is willing to sell some V11 rear rack. You can email at carlosmaldonado60@aol.com if he still has it. I looked and that ID was registered right after I posted the "Wanted" note and his bike selection is "Harley Davidson" which seems a bit odd on a Guzzi forum... Having seen this before, I knew it was a scam, but to see how it would go I emailed the aol address and he sent a pic of a V11 rear rack that is on Google images. I asked if he'd take PayPal and he said yes but only Friends and Family (no way to recoup the money when someone rips you off with F&F PayPal, similar to Venmo CashApp etc). I said I want to use PayPal as a purchase so I will get my money back in case it doesn't arrive and he says no, only F&F. Anyways, definitely a scam. Admin - you may want to disable this account, but its not like that will stop him from registering a new one.

No , don't take anyone's input as sarcasm . EVERYONE on this forum wants to help you and wants your bike to run perfect . We just need all work history to give you the best advice and to use the least amount of parts needed . W/that being said , you disconnect the CHT sensor AKA oil temp sensor and it runs better . T or F ? If you have a DVOM disconnect the plug and check the resistance at room temp and let us know . I will check one of mine and see what I read on mine . BTW , the red frame and black frame have this sensor wired to pins 4 & 22 so it will not matter. I know pin 22 is violet and I am not sure about colors of pin # 4.

That'd be it. Never exclude the possibility that a new part, particularly electronics, might be broken out of the box. It is not all that common, but it can happen.

But only when everything else is definitely sorted. There is no point dicking around with the map if a sensor is not working, or something "simple" is mechanically not working as it should.

Thanks Docc

FWIW, Revival Cycles sells this glass lensed 7" LED headlight assy. There are not a lot of comments addressing the beam pattern, but all in all reviewers seemed pleased with them. Revival itself does not claim they are the best performing, but all in all acceptable. The lens is convex like an old school sealed beam, I prefer the flat lens on the OEM V11. There's a photo in the link of one mounted on an older Moto Guzzi and they say there is an adaptor they sell for it. LED conversion research is a ticket to the purgatory of the rabbit hole. A lot of time wasted, then you give up in confusion go back to squinting on dark roads. Don't know if this is of interest to anyone: https://revivalcycles.com/collections/motorcycle-lights/products/secret-led [doccedit]:

Cylinder psi warm WOT #1 154 #2 155.

This started happening about 4 years ago just like a switch had been flipped. 1) Put a new injector assembly from ebay and a new timing chain tensioner runs the same. 2) Put a new TPS runs the same. 3) Did a full tune up after each change runs the same. 4) fresh fuel new fuel filter and all new relays and plugs runs the same. I will keep tinkering let you guys know if I find anything just thought someone else may have had the same situation.

With electronics, there is something called "infancy failure".

I looked at that, but the schedule isn't mine. Lolo Pass... Hwy 12. Listed

How many miles, how many years? Dirty fuel injectors always go lean, perhaps yours have made it over the margin. My bike ran fine, hand-tuned; I had the injectors cleaned, improved something like 3% on the right and 10% on the left. I had to lean the whole thing down, but the balance improvement, that is one not lean the other not rich, made it enormously smoother and fuel mileage doofing around the Spine Raid went from ~38 to 45mpg.

I discovered while exploring El Paso ( a very small city) that Amazon has at least 6 local warehouses on the West side only, guessing maybe 150k people.

Yes that is the case, new tps also.runs so good until hot.

Get to Fruita early, those pies go fast.

So you don't mention that in the OP! Phil

Bloody hell, never thought about that.... We've got two in the house and not a peep out of either, better go check them! Thanks mate.

I just ordered @Pressureanglesuggested unit at 9:30 PT, on sale and should be here tomorrow between 4 and 8 AM. Somebody is working this holiday. I can't believe the turnaround time. Thanks to the best group of guys anywhere!

Newspaper is pretty hard to find anymore, and junk mail doesn't burn fast enough. Gonna have to find some dry pine needles and gasoline to get that thing moving.

I’m endeavoring to get Greenie and Goldie out for a full-speed spin every few weeks, just “riding around” to keep them exercised, and avoid the issues of letting them sit too long. (Red is a regular rider) though they are obviously all roughly the same machines (1 short frame, 2 longs), remarkable to me how different they ride. Red has the slightly different foot peg position, and cushier suspension, and Goldie’s clutch is getting toward the end before needing plates, all which make for a fairly dramatic difference when riding back to back. And of course greenies short frame and no windscreen means what that means. Sort of obvious i suppose, but riding them all back to back accentuated things. That little Lemans windscreen I’d always thought didn’t do much, but it makes a real obvious difference in reality… really smooths the airflow a lot more than i would have thought. Similarly, I’d have said “the short frame isn’t that much shorter”, but its a whole different feeling. I feel like I’m on a mini-bike on Greenie after i get off the Lemans. Must be something else to it…. Maybe I should look more closely at stock foot peg position, or maybe that frame length delta just does more than i would have thought. Greenie, with the pods, purrs like a kitten, and pulls nicely through the whole rpm range, but is “lumpier” as you run up through the rpm range. I assume thats a pod issue to some extent. Goldie is still (after much fussing) somewhat lifeless below about 4500 rpm, then springs to life like a 2 stroke above that. And Red is the Goldilocks of the group, being about perfect throughout (engine and suspension), though its nuisance gremlin is the occasional “starts hard and won’t idle” that will happen randomly each summer. anyway, just some pointless sunday morning musings about the differences in these bikes, which i think maybe all have more “artist” and voodoo in them, like proper Italians should, after an enjoyable run on all 3 of the girls yesterday.

Hope this link works- bought this one for to carry on the Himalayan. Used it to pump up both tires after making new, pleasantly surprised at the speed and volume. Both tires from flat didn't use a third of the battery. Also can use as a battery pack for your phone, etc. https://www.amazon.com/Airmoto-Tire-Inflator-Air-Compressor/dp/B094DMH7ZM?pd_rd_w=6eqO3&content-id=amzn1.sym.b46c8fe2-d558-44b6-a291-82096c829da9&pf_rd_p=b46c8fe2-d558-44b6-a291-82096c829da9&pf_rd_r=MSHTGQ06R0979TDTF2B6&pd_rd_wg=Jv8si&pd_rd_r=ddf2d170-372b-4533-8338-211ce6419cd8&pd_rd_i=B094DMH7ZM&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_40_nped_pr_t&th=1

Quite appropriate, I reckon.

This same scam is going on over on the AF1 Forum... I was looking for a part and put up a WTB..a new member to the forum contacted me thru PM he knew a guy who had it for sale and referred me to his e mail ...I e mailed the person he recommended and that supposed seller sent me a pictures of the parts supposedly on HIS bike. The thing he didn't realise it was one of MY old Aprilia's ( Ha Ha Ha) which I sold to a friend in Phoenix 5 years ago and still talk to all the time, so I called him and asked if he had sold the bike?..He said heck no...the guy had pulled the pictures off the internet!!..to use in his Scam..I didnt reply I just I reported them Both to the Moderator....

Thanks docc. p6x - PayPal (via their normal fund transfers - NOT Friends/Family) will refund a payment if the seller doesn't ship the product, or if you can prove to PayPal that you didn't get what you paid for. In my experience they lean heavily toward protecting the buyer and not the seller. I'm guessing this is because if I use a credit card to fund the PayPal purchase, and I request a refund from PayPal and they deny me, then I can challenge the payment with the credit card provider and Visa will freeze the funds which are now PayPal's. So instead of having their own money frozen, PayPal will freeze the funds from the seller and make them prove the buyer got what they paid for. Its a pain, and leaves honest sellers open to dishonest buyers with little recourse, but it beats Venmo/CashApp/etc where the money is just gone. The wire transfer does prove the person has a US bank account, but if they don't follow through, the money is still gone and now its up to you to try and get it back. I had a bad experience with a guy in Texas (no offense ) who I actually sent the $1200 item to with the agreement he'd pay when it arrived. 8 months of excuses: "Sorry but I had to sell that bike... medical issues... can't find the stuff you sent anymore... Lost my job and have no money...", I finally got pissed enough to exhaust my Google skills finding info on him. I got his wife to send the money after I called her at her work and threatened to call all of her co-workers and her boss to tell them she's married to a thief. All that to say, even with someone in the US its hard to get money back. I used to be much more trusting (obviously, given the story above) but unfortunately there's just too many scammers out there. You can usually tell if someone is legit by asking a few questions that require moto-specific knowledge to answer properly, asking for pictures and/or getting on the phone with them. If they send pics that are already on the internet somewhere, its not real. If they won't talk on a phone, its not real. I've had buyers ask me to send a pic with their name on a piece of paper next to the thing I'm selling and as a seller, I was happy to do that.

Thanks for reporting this, @BillyB. That user's account has been deleted by the Admin.

One way I found to separate the good from the bad on forums, is to check the number of posts the individual has submitted. I would also automatically discard anyone who called me "Buddy"... this is so 60's. In any case, there is so much scam going around that it is a real challenge to understand who you are dealing with. Personally, I would always avoid PayPal and similar to settle transactions. Everything I sold I request a wire bank transfer, account to account. For some reason, people are afraid to divulge their bank account details, so with a scammer, this is the ideal deterrent. On both sides of the transaction, people will have to share Bank name, account number, Bank address, Individual's address. The transaction is recorded on both sides. To open a bank account, you need to be legitimate. If the scammer is operating from a remote country, he cannot open a US account. You cannot have a US bank account with a false address. To me, this is the safest way. Even the so-called "escrow" accounts can be forged. Bank to bank transfer is the safest. Even more now than before, since access is verified with a single use code sent to your phone.