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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/13/2024 in all areas
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well said Phil. And happily preaching to the choir on this forum in that regard… we’re all on the same ride with the V11’s, for better and for worse. I’ll make the assumption that if an old CBX was being purchased as a daily rider then i’d agree with all you’ve said, and question the sanity of such a venture. As a fun toy to own, then I’d say the game is very different. Meaning, would I own a Black Shadow or a Brough if a long lost uncle left one to me, despite the challenges involved in owning one? yessir i would.3 points
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For your own benefit , install a stud in that small bolt area on the sidestand bracket . When you tighten a bolt you are screwing a bolt into the threads of the engine block. When you install a stud and tighten the nut , you are pulling on the stud to tighten the sidestand to the engine block. A much better setup and no chance of wearing out the threads in the block .3 points
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Roadstercycle.com Shindengen SH847. Works wonder for your electricial system. Cheers Tom.2 points
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A V11 Sport is actually a pretty rational choice of motorcycle for long term ownership, albeit less so as the new parts supplies dry up. Lets see, cheap to buy, easy to maintain for the backyard mechanic, about as hard as the average lawnmower to do a top end rebuild on, low parts count when you need them ( pistons, rings, valves, main and big end bearings etc) robust. All these V11 owners imagining how "unique" their choice is and how it's an emotional purchase when in reality the V11 Sport is quite a sensible rational choice for the average long term owner. A 40 year old 6 cylinder motorcycle though is another thing entirely. Everyone brags about "buy what you love" until it breaks that is then it's a different story. How many people have I seen buy a brand new Italian motorcycle because they "love it" and have zero mechanical aptitude and the nearest dealer is a 3 hour drive away. They then hit the internet crying about their circumstances when their Italian dream has an issue and there is no one local to fix it and they have zero clue themselves. Plenty of Ducati owners bought their "dream bike" on passion 15 or 20 years ago and the dream and passion lasted until their first major service bill and then the same owner got all passionate about a hassle free cheap to service UJM and the Ducati made way for the rational bike choice. Passion needs to be underpinned by rationality to create a stable structure. Phil2 points
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I labeled my relays like this: Yet, it is a must to know which fuse supplies each relay as "the rest of the story" is shown at the fuse block (inverted so as to read from the sidestand side of bike. Beside the road. While bewildered):2 points
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I think I can give you an answer to the that question, no useful benefit to that swing arm in any department apart from keeping more road grime off the back of the gearbox and MAYBE slightly less weight. Like a mega expensive rear wheel hugger. Phil2 points
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hah, exactly! of all places to talk about rational things, a V11 lemans forum… that’s beautiful! 20-some years ago when my good friend had a Lemans and I had an ST4 with factory side cases, I gave him an endless hard time about what a useless bike he had. It was a good natured debate we had, but I just laughed at his ridiculous choice of a moto guzzi v11, which he rode in all weather, putting the after market side bags on it (ugly… ouch), buzz in the handlebars, had mechanical problems he was always fussing with, had less HP than my ST4, didn’t handle as well, and so on. To me, the St4 was a real stretch on rationality, meaning it wasnt as rational as a Japanese bike like the FJ (etc), but I could justify it with whatever logic I used at that time. Oh, and I had my BMW 1150RT…. now there’s a bike that’s so rational it’s like a car, just with better fuel econ and easier to park in a downtown area. Now I own that same V11 he had, the one I scoffed at. Plus 2 more. The practical but boring BMW is long gone (after 80k miles). If we try real hard to rationalize the V11’s we can, sort-of, but its a stretch. but for me it’s pretty much because I just really like them, and they make me happy when I ride them or think about riding them.2 points
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Great thing about @TomH coming here to solve this problem is: This is the best place in the world for the care&feeding of a V11 LeMans/Sport . . .2 points
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Trash on the magnet is okay, unless it continues or worsens. Looks a lot like a previous owner used RedLine ShockProof Heavyweight (pink milkshake). Not necessarily a bad thing, but makes subsequent oil changes hard to judge refill volume as so much clings inside when draining.1 point
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Probably because SD originally sold genuine OEM TPS's sourced from Guzzi or the OEM as opposed to CA probably sourcing them from China. Now that new OEM sensors are pretty much unobtainium they also probably source from China direct but without passing on the reduced retail price. I don't think there's any issue with Chinese made stuff in general but I still think they grade their components. The best go to the big customers that buy in significant quantities and may even have their own form of quality control or testing and the lesser quality is sold via ebay and such. Just my theory from experience. CA Cycleworks are renowned for selling quality stuff and I think from memory they actually yest their TPS's before selling them. Phil1 point
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The Guzzi BB engine has a history of losing the prime to the oil pump. It's not a really common thing but it's happened enough times for me to not leave them draining overnight and to prime the filter. It's never a good idea to leave any engine without oil for extended periods of time with the pickup uncovered. Holden 253 V8's were another example of an engine that could lose it's prime during oil changes and the only way to rectify it was to remove the pump disassemble it and fill it with grease. same methodology I used when assembling my Daytona engine which is basically a BB bottom end. Phil1 point
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Yes, the sight glass will look empty on the side stand; bike mist be vertical, level in the center. It would be preferable to drain oils hot as it puts all the spooky badness in suspension. That bubbly stuff must go! Consider checking/clearing your gearbox vent, @TomH. While there, service the main ground next to the vent on the back right of the gearbox . . . ^^^ View from the rear with the swingarm removed. Otherwise, access from the right side behind the seat release: Peer in just ahead of the right Frame Side Plate. Both the vent and the ground point are visible:1 point
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12 hours with oiled non-moving metals? What would be the problem?1 point
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Thanks all. Agreed @docc, I'm mighty glad I landed here. Here's the update. With the gearbox oil filled, It sat for about 10 days. Life happened. Today I inspected underneath - no leaks. I propped it up level, and the oil showed up. I started it up and rope it around the block, cycling VERY GENTLY through the gears up and down. Once it slipped coming down from 4 to 3. I could not replicate it. Miracle healing? Was I just shifting wrong somehow? I've been doing this for 5 years now. I've been through 5 bikes, all different. Never had a bike slip out of gear, but could the lack of oil cause that? I'm absolutely not an expert but not a 100% newbie rider. @gstallons, I remember putting in 27 oz of oil, but I might've been wrong about it being empty. Here's what it looks like now, after a 5 minute ride. Awfully frothy, right? Can't be good This is with the bike level. There's a good chance I didn't level the bike when I read the bubble the first time. Rookie mistake. This thing has a stupid deep lean on the kickstand. That's probably why I didn't kill it. Must've had some in it. With it tilted now, it shows a little more than before I added oil. I wonder if it's too high now since there's probably some in. I'll find out soon when it comes out. Planning to drain it this afternoon. I also inspected the linkage off the the shift lever, it's straight. So for now I'm going to drain the gearbox and refill with new clean stuff. I am not taking the covers off of anything yet, I don't want to open up stuff if I don't have to. Very thankful for the input, folks!1 point
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2004 Ballabio around 18k miles on it, recently replaced the Gianelli exhaust with the original exhaust still new so could take the wife for a ride ( she insisted as wanted a video to show friends, both her and her cousin). The bike has always been serviced regularly with all 3 oil changes, filters (air and oil), drive shaft off for greasing, calipers and master cylinders rebuilt, brake pads, etc. Getting new Michelin Road 6’s this week (has pilot 2 ct2+ that are finished). Found there was a slight hesitation or misfire sometimes when rolling on the throttle between 1800 and 2200 rpm. Seemed more frequent when hotter out, and becoming more frequent over a few hundred miles. Decided I should prepare to do the “Decent Tuneup” and while I assemble the needed items I would proceed with step 1. Spark plugs and tappet clearances. A real surprise. Plug gap was about .040/ .041 with the plugs looking in good shape ( likely about 6 k miles since last look) Tappets .011/.013 Int / Ex ( likely 10 k miles since last checked) Installed new plugs .028 (have a box of them). Set the tappers to .006/.008. Went for a 150 mile ride. No more misfire or cough at low engine rpm throttle roll on. So nice.1 point
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reviving an old thread while perusing random stuff during lunch…. anyone know why Stein Dinse and MGcycle charge either about $600 or $400 (respectively) for a PF3C, while CA cycle works and other sources have them for around $80? one them use diamonds and kryptonite?1 point
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The original SpineFrame sold for $22000 (plus buyer's premium). I am secretly hoping it appears at Barber Motorsports Museum, but if you want to bring it to the South'n SpineRaid, it would be most welcome (whoever you are) . . . https://briggsauction.bidwrangler.com/ui/auctions/122350/16254138 The original LeMans endurance racer (#93) sold for a paltry $11,500. Another bike I would love to see . . . https://briggsauction.bidwrangler.com/ui/auctions/122350/162541641 point
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Yeah, I marked up my relays, fuses, etc. after seeing yours Doc but mine aren't as elegant.1 point
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I personally wouldn't leave the bike overnight without oil in it. I drain the oil, replace the filter ( pre charged) fill the oil and start it as soon as practicable. Phil1 point
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Officially eight weeks to SSR XX. Even if you're on the metric system!1 point
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330km now, have a good feeling about clearances and everything. Winther project with a clean bill of health. Must admit she has an easier willingnes to curbs than myV11. I actually have a feeling for my keepers, yes IPA TIME. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-S906B via Tapatalk1 point
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I have deluge tested the Skwal i3, and I can happily confirm that no water comes through the slider that operates the sun visor. Furthermore, the lights come handy in the kind of storm I went through today. The sky was completely dark, only lightning would interrupt the penumbra. Even if the lights make it look like the entrance of a brothel, I think it has some other useful purposes! ha!1 point
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I have wet tested the KNOX Armored shirt under a tropical deluge this morning, and I can confirm if you could be totally drenched by the rain continuously, then riding in the searing heat would be no problem.... At speed, the droplets of rain seriously ping you through the mesh fabric. It was an interesting experience.1 point
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I think life would be boring if viewed only through rational eyes.....1 point
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I would not ride my bike to the end of the driveway (1000') and back w/no oil in the transmission. You have no idea how fortunate you are !1 point
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If I may: you need to be thorough, systematic and careful in your analysis of what is going on. Record everything and be specific in the info you give us.... this will help in the analysis. Tell us exactly what the oil is like when you drain it. I'd replace it all again anyway and use the correct measure and filling procedure required. Keeping your bike really clean will help in identifying any leaks that may develop. And spending time just looking at it and under it, is part of being involved and knowing what is going on with our bikes. I wouldn't ride it until you know what is going on. I'm in Redmond so if you want to chat, send me a private message and I can give you my phone number.1 point
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Refill capacity is 27-28 oz. If this box was empty , you should have destroyed everything inside. Make sure you have ridden this at least 5 miles to make everything in the gearbox is mixed together , then remove the drain plug and allow just a little to drain (into a white paper plate) and quickly reinstalling the drain plug. Looking at what you have in the plate will tell you what is going on inside . Shift bendix ? That is new to me. A normal motorcycle trans had a shift drum that moves the gears to produce different gear ratios. MG has a different setup .You would just have to look at it to understand how it works .There are adjustments that can be made but you have to be familiar wit this stuff before you start adjusting things .1 point
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Nooooo , the most important question is , how much oil did you add to the transmission to get it to the correct level ? Also , I hope the bike is in an upright position when you are doing this .1 point
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Empty ? How much fluid did you add ? Be specific ! First thing , YOU purchase enough to refill the gearbox . Next drain the oil from the gearbox and inspect the fluid That has come out. Be sure you are draining and refilling the gearbox in the correct spots. Someone had refilled the gearbox at the rubber plugs going into the clutch housing area with bad results. Let us know what happens1 point
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My location is now in the tail of Beryl, and let's say it was quite the experience, again! We had the Derecho in May, 6 days without power, and we also lost power this time; fortunately, it came back a few minutes ago, partially. The whirlwind was like mini tornadoes and a lot of foliage and trees have again been uprooted. Lots of cleaning will be required. Fortunately, this time we still had a semblance of phone network, so we could monitor the Beryl path. The gusting is the most impressive as you go from complete calm to a sudden force gale. Losing the Internet is really like losing your lifeline to communications.1 point
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Just sent AJ Howard -- a Guzzista and general gearhead from Baltimore and a veteran of several Mutton Runs and Moto Grappa Tech Days -- info about "The Twentieth." Naturally, I haven't told AJ about the lengthy, onerous, and painful initiation ceremony. I also think that, given the 20th anniversary that this 'Raid is, we should consider adding a tattoo as a final event in the initiation rite. If the group agrees, we'll need a committee to come up with an appropriate design. Bill1 point
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What with no experience with the CBX, I have refrained from comment. Yet, I had a significant foray into a similar era 1000cc 1975 Honda twenty-five years ago. Even then, support and parts were becoming difficult. I rode the GL1000 four years, about 44,000 miles, in some very demanding sport-touring riding with modern motorcycles in the group. She acquitted herself well, but was heavy and had limited ground clearance for aggressive cornering. I did love that flat-four shriek from 6-8,000 rpm! In the end, I suspect the continual stream of costs was a factor in The Wife's endorsement of the V11 Sport. Pretty sure she might have thought, " At least the Moto Guzzi is a brand new bike. It couldn't possible bleed us like the old Honda. "1 point
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