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I got bracket bent back to 90 degrees. All fits together fine now. I like the idea of the stud.

No not really. Apart from the reduction in frictional wear from repeated use the threads in the threaded hole see the same physical stresses whether a stud or a bolt in this application. When you torque up a cylinder stud on a Guzzi or Ducati or many other engines as an example you can feel that long stud twisting under the torque load just like a long bolt. That torque is transmitted into the threaded hole just like a bolt but with without the thread frictional loss. The frictional loss is carried by the nut threads in this instance. Phil

The information I have I had from talking to old mechanics . The stud pulls straight up on the threads whereas the screw twists on the threads .

Currently about $84 US https://ca-cycleworks.com/pf3c.html

From an engineering perspective it makes zero difference whether it's stud or a bolt and nut. If it's something thats coming on and off all the time a stud would be preferable but otherwise it doesn't matter. It's easier to buy a decent grade of bolt than a stud as well. An interesting aside, all the load on a threaded hole or nut is taken by the first 6 threads and just over 60% of that is taken by the first 2 full threads in the hole or nut. From memory it's like 36% for the first full thread and 25% for the second thread and it tapers off for the last 4. Phil

The Kazakh MotoGP has been officially cancelled for 2024. Substituted by another race on Misano in Italy. Jack Miller is almost certain to move to PRAMAC next year.

Chick roughnecks!

Thanks for your responses guys...it's already in the bin (trash).

Yeaahhh , take this thing out of circuit . Then start over. #1 throttle body balance #2 TPS adjustment #3 contact anyone "down there" who can help you set this bike up . You really need to be good electrically , mechanically and have pretty tough skin . When you get this bike set-up properly , you will love it .

AFA the specific amount of oil in a system , I knew a buddy that refilled his rear end in an Ambassador . His bike had a deep pan instead of a shallow pan . He headed to Carbondale on the bike , then trailered it back after it came to a squeaky halt . ALWAYS be sure you fill things up to a proper level . It will save you money in the long run. Also , the vent tube instead of a vent is superior !

Probably because SD originally sold genuine OEM TPS's sourced from Guzzi or the OEM as opposed to CA probably sourcing them from China. Now that new OEM sensors are pretty much unobtainium they also probably source from China direct but without passing on the reduced retail price. I don't think there's any issue with Chinese made stuff in general but I still think they grade their components. The best go to the big customers that buy in significant quantities and may even have their own form of quality control or testing and the lesser quality is sold via ebay and such. Just my theory from experience. CA Cycleworks are renowned for selling quality stuff and I think from memory they actually yest their TPS's before selling them. Phil

The original SpineFrame sold for $22000 (plus buyer's premium). I am secretly hoping it appears at Barber Motorsports Museum, but if you want to bring it to the South'n SpineRaid, it would be most welcome (whoever you are) . . . https://briggsauction.bidwrangler.com/ui/auctions/122350/16254138 The original LeMans endurance racer (#93) sold for a paltry $11,500. Another bike I would love to see . . . https://briggsauction.bidwrangler.com/ui/auctions/122350/16254164

yep

I love this evolutionary solution! Brilliant! Nut with a NyLock, even . . .

For your own benefit , install a stud in that small bolt area on the sidestand bracket . When you tighten a bolt you are screwing a bolt into the threads of the engine block. When you install a stud and tighten the nut , you are pulling on the stud to tighten the sidestand to the engine block. A much better setup and no chance of wearing out the threads in the block .

Harpers I ain't had very good luck lately with fleabay new/used stuff for sale but what do I know. That stand bracket looks to be cast aluminum, bends one way but not so easily back the other way without breaking is a ferrous material. Definitely possible to straighten with heat I guess. I like the idea of checking securement hardware at oil change/annual checklist item or possibly using locktite (medium) or lock washers. Good luck.

Dave, almost forgot. Here's the disemboweled TPS. Just don't stare at it too long. You won't be able to sleep.