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Fear not brothers Guzzisti ! The venerable @Kiwi_Roy may not be visiting here any longer but he's still around and active on WG.

p6x ; this is my official advice . You need that 6cylinder bike "like you need a possum w/a red asshole".* with that being said, you are going to live once and one time only . I am the King of Wrong Decisions but eventually I made a few good ones. Are you going to regret purchasing it or regret not purchasing it ? Go get it. * Wanda Lee Stallons . My Mother , she was 1/2 Mahalia Jackson and 1/2 Phyllis Diller

I've reckon I've seen this thing a couple of times too... Can't be too many of them lurking about let alone being used and not worshipped in a glass cage! Firstly, parked next to it in Tooradin whilst eating a pie some time ago and again when we passed each other on opposite sides of the old backroad which runs parallel to the highway just before the Robin Hood pub. Must've been quite a sight...a thundering V11 Guzzi heading east and classic ole Bugatti heading west, both being er exercised!! One of those happy memories that'll stay with me forever.... Cheers

Phil, you're right in all points, but the CBX motor was a wonderful thing. That's worth some points that don't have anything to do with practicality or common sense or any of that stuff.

I labeled my relays like this: Yet, it is a must to know which fuse supplies each relay as "the rest of the story" is shown at the fuse block (inverted so as to read from the sidestand side of bike. Beside the road. While bewildered):

Buy one of these before you start. https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0143

Not really. Re read my scenario and you might understand the scenario better. I've had this issue on a Ducati ST2 front brakes with a badly worn wheel bearing. Not saying it's the issue for the OP but it's worth spending 5 min to check the wheel bearings. Brake pads only clear the disk by maybe .005" thousands of an inch in normal operation when the brakes are released so it only requires the pads being pushed back 1/2 mm total to lose the brakes entirely. In the case of the Ducati front brakes you got good lever after riding in a straight section of road and coming to a stop. Full lever and normal travel. Take off and ride it around a corner and the next stop the lever's coming back to the bar. Give the lever a second pump and they're back to normal as is the next stop if you rode in a straight piece of road. Throw in a corner and you lost the lever again. Lateral wheel movement during cornering pushing the pads back but not in straight line riding. Phil

If the brakes haven’t been bled for an age the main piston seal in the master cylinder may be collapsed and not sealing properly.

Indeed... I don't know why she changed her look, she now uses a white SG instead of her signature telecaster style.

Not yet, will be soon!

Took the Rosso Corsa to this evenings Guzzi Club meet

I feel the need for speed...

I completely forgot this happened to mySport five years ago! In that case, @TomH, be certain your inner rear wheel spacer measures correctly and use high quality bearings (I settled on KOYO) . . .

If you hit the rear brake and there is no brakes there, the first thing I would do right then and there is pump the brake pedal to see if the brakes come back. Having to pump the brakes can happen because the brake pads get pushed away from the disk. That can happen for a few reasons, including what Phil mentioned of having issues with the wheel bearings. If the wheel has enough wobble in it from loose bearings the disk can push the pads away from it when it wobbles. It does not take a massive amount of wobble to do that. It only has to push the pads a tiny amount away from the disk. Anything that causes the pads to be pushed away from the disk will cause the brakes to not be there when you next push on the brake pedal. But if that is the issue successive pumping of the brake pedal will normally restore brake function. Other things can also cause brake issues, like the hole between the master cylinder (the part pushing the brake pedal acts on) and the reservoir. That hole must be open when the brake pedal is in its normal position. Improperly adjusting the brake pedal can cause that hole to not be open when the brake pedal is not being pushed. Or you could have a small piece of debris clogging that hole, as mentioned. You could also have issues inside the master cylinder. There is a small spring inside it that pushes the piston back when you release the brake. If that spring can't or won't push the piston back when you release the brakes you will experience brake issues.

I'd be looking at your rear wheel bearings first thing just to be safe. Don't bother with squatting down and trying to twist it, grab a 3 foot length of timber and put some tape on it to protect the paint and stick it between the swingarm and tyre sidewall and lever the wheel and see if it moves. The situation is when the bearings are shot badly enough cornering forces mean the wheel twists a little which pushes the brake pads back into the calliper enough to lose the brake. Then some straight riding and a few pumps on the pedal brings them back onto the disk. If you've picked up some rattly vibes in the footpegs lately thats also a good sign of bad rear wheel bearings. Phil

Time to service/ lube the lever pivot and bleed the hydraulics. The caliper has to be removed and rotated to position the bleeder upward and above the master cylinder. Take time to clean the pistons, rotate them with a piston tool, and press them back into the seals. Polish and lube (silicone grease only!) the pad pin and spring.

Yeah, I marked up my relays, fuses, etc. after seeing yours Doc but mine aren't as elegant.

On airplanes, the cylinder needing checked is put at TDC compression stroke. The prop is dangerous and is held tightly before turning on the air. The regulator sets the first gauge at 80 psi, and the second gauge shows the leakage. The prop then can be turned back and forth a degree or so to get the highest reading. A normal cylinder will be 75 psi or above. I don't get terribly concerned until it reads 70 or under. This will show leakage from rings at the crankcase breather, intake valves at the carb, or exhaust valves at the (wait for it) exhaust stack. It won't tell anything about valve guides, but since it is at TDC you can feel how much clearance there is by wiggling them around. Edit: I would put an on/off valve on the hose to the cylinder on the pictured rig. It makes things simpler.

Thanks for the replies, gentlemen!! @po18guy, It occurred to me that the coils could be "tired" and contributing. @Joe, The tank heat shielding is intact. @gstallons, On the side of the road, I would liked to have had some freeze spray or electronics cleaner to selectively cool components, especially the petcock, fuel line, and pump. They were too hot to touch.

Re-priming the fuel pump sounded "weedy." I thought I could "clear" the lines/pump/injectors by cycling the pump. Never worked out. At 5,000 miles, those plugs look "bad" to me . . . You can imagine my joy, starting the Sport up and riding away, after changing the plugs on that roadside after an hour in the immense heat . . .

Hi, this is going to be a quick one. A leaking fork seal in the left fork was the reason I started looking into the cartridge topic in the first place. I ordered the cartridge from an Italien dealership last Friday and today, 4 days later they arrived. Getting the fork seal out proved the biggest challenge in the whole enterprise, the spring ring to secure the fork seal used is a nightmare to get out. Finally I ground a small groove into the material and got the leverage needed. What a crazy spring ring selection, looks like a custom made part only for Guzzi. The Andreani kit installation was totally straightforward. Remove the original cartridge, install the new cartridge, fill oil up to specified level and done. I took a quick spin and the fork forked :-) Not optimal yet, but it felt less bumpy than the OEM. During the next days I'll adjust the settings and see if the investment was worthwhile. Cheers Meinolf

Second time this happened to mySport in high heat after a short run up the road (thirty minutes), and a very short stop->restart (minutes) attempt, then failure to run. Like a "vapor lock." First time, it cleared out suddenly after maybe twenty->thirty minutes. Like it never happened. This time, (High heat: 95ºF/ higher "heat index"), I got maybe 200 yards and the Sport would not recover. Tried cycling the fuel pump (a dozen+ times). Opened the tank cap several times. Chatted with several concerned locals stopping to check on my plight. After an hour pinned between the edge of the road and the guard rail, I thought it would restart after "cooling off." Fanned the petcock/fuel line/fuel pump over the left cylinder/head. No joy. Started to fret over the Timing Sensor. The ECU. Swapped in a fresh #5 (fuel/ignition) relay . . . Figured I fouled the plugs with so many restart attempts an decided to swap in new plugs (always carry new plugs!) thinking the bad plugs would be wet soaked from so many restart attempts. After an hour cool down and fresh plugs, started up and rode home . . . Yeah, they are "plugs", just not *spark*-plugs! Right as I was celebrating turning 134,000 miles . . .

I fear he is sadly no longer amongst us. Something he wrote a while back to the tune of "I will never achieve that now"...