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Corny, but nice! The final is the lighting of a cauldron which is then flown above the Louvre. The torch bearer were Carl Lewis, Rafael Nadal, Nadia Comaneci and Serena Williams. Wearing inflatable safety vests... lol!

-"for a fraction of the price of your wife/girlfriend silicon implants" Well, they surely know how to entice their customers...

Guy's It's important to get the right gap for the Timing sensor as well. I did have mine adjusted with correct spacers early in the caper when she was doing what your bikes are doing.Several other things were replaced at same time so can't pinpoint this as sole issue but do remember others having these issues with it when trying to diagnose my problems. Too little or too much gap will cause running issues! There is info on it on here but will dig it out for you if needed... Cheers

BMW Motorcycles of Escondido is now renamed Moto San Diego, and they have expanded their line-up to include Moto Guzzi and Aprilia, instead of being a one-brand shop. https://www.motosandiego.com/ At the moment, they are only showing five Moto Guzzis and five Aprilias in stock. But I think it's worth a ride over tomorrow morning on a Moto Guzzi, just to get acquainted. This shop tried carrying some Piaggio brands several years ago, but it failed. I don't know the circumstances, but I think that was at a time that a lot of people were complaining about how hard it was to work with Piaggio. Hopefully things are better now. This shop is right around the corner from Moto Forza, which carries Ducati, Husqvarna, Triumph, MV Agusta, Royal Enfield, Vespa. Previously, my closest Moto Guzzi (GP Motorcycles) was 30 miles away. Now I have one only 14 miles away. Much closer....

There are various thickness shims Mick not gaskets. The oil seal is an oring and is almost useless on it's own and a gasket sealer is required as well on install. The actual sealing design is flawed in my opinion. How to measure? With a depth gauge and a pair of vernier callipers and a bit of math. You can of course just put a blob of plasticene on the end of the pickup with some grease on it and no shims and stick it in and remove then measure the plasticene thickness and calculate the shims you need. Thats works as well. Someone years ago made quite a neat bespoke tool to measure the depth but it's so rarely required I just use the old school methodology. I've pulled apart engines where the sensor was contacting the wheel and it still ran ok. Okish maybe. Phil

I'll have to think about it . Maybe somebody else will chime in 'til then .

I'm messin' w/ya

That is easy to try out. I wouldn't get caught up in philosiphising there. Just suck it and see.

My bikes that use the exact same disks, the Ducati 1000SS the Guzzi V11 Sport and the Ducati ST2 have had the following 320mm disks fitted to them over the years. Braking Wave, Galfer wave, Std Brembo original dished with round holes and later style spoke Brembo. All have stopped exactly the same road and track, no difference with the same pads and callipers. Phil

AND make sure one of the teeth is in the center of the crank sensor bore . This is critical amd you want to get it right the !st time. You don;t want it close , you want it right.

Fella's. I just checked back through my records... My Phase sensor was at 1.4 mm (way out) and reduced to 0.7 mm back in 2011. From memory the gap should be 0.6 or 0.7! I also had a crap standard timing chain tensioner replaced at the time which probably contributed to my issues.. but make sure the Phase sensor has correct gap as above. Cheers

I was provided with these links: https://www.autoteile-markt.de/shop/artikel/impulsgeber-kurbelwelle-facet-9.0032-d1a862c35a20ef761692aff82f023960?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs5fjzLGh_AIVh-93Ch3pew71EAQYASABEgIqrPD_BwE https://www.pkwteile.de/facet/2181912 https://www.autodoc.de/facet/2181912 I ordered the one from the first link because it was the cheapest. I can't say anything at all about the quality or compatibility. Mine hasn't arrived yet, so I am working on hearsay at this point. However, I trust implicitely the person who sent me the links. He used to work in a Guzzi workshop, was perhaps the owner, and knows an awful lot about the 1100 Sport/ Sport 1100/ Daytona/ V11 period of the Guzzi history. EDIT: to put the price in perspective, this is the original Guzzi part: https://wendelmotorraeder.de/phasen-und-umdrehungsfuhler_gu01721600-p-1024014.html?ref=expl ANUVVEREDIT: the links are for suppliers in Germany, which is good for me because that is where I live. Rather than ordering from Germany, I would suggest searching for a supplier for the sensor FACET 9.0032 in your country. I gather it was used in a number of vehicles, and should be able to be found.

That is kind of self-contradicting. The map is a given, assuming the manufacturer is not completely stupid. If the TPS is correct, the ECU is getting the correct data that it needs to implement the (theoretically correct) map correctly, and everything should be sweet. If one assumes that the map is good, which one must to an extent, then irregularities point to something not working the way it should (sensors, bad fuel, leaky rubbers, whatever). As pointed out further up, not only by me, the first thing is to make absolutely sure that all the basic stuff is definitely ok. If that is not done, its a wild goose chase.

yes, I'm in the same boat. My 2002 Le Mans spits and coughs between 2 and 3 thousand rpm at constant throttle when it is warm. I did go through the "decent tune up", but in a hurry. I think I need to go at it again in a relaxed and concentrated manner. Also, I have ordered a new sensor for the motor position. Don't know what it is called in English. The German name is "phasen sensor". I've heard that they give up after a while, and someone provided me with a source for an affordable price, so I will swap it out and see what it brings.

New manifold rubber sleeves last year. Fuel filter was replaced about 8,000 miles. Now has 25,000 miles.

Thank you all. Yes, 92 non-ethanol fuel is the best we can do here. Late last summer I did the decent tune-up starting with valve adjust etc. It made a remarkable difference with the surging and stumbling off idle but didn't eliminate it completely. Biggest difference was cleaning the bypass screws, resetting the TPS, balancing the throttle bodies and lowering the idle. It's only been about 1,000 miles since the tune and the symptoms have gotten worse as the temperature has increased so thinking there is more to do.

Perhaps you will enjoy this direct link to Cycle Garden's "Big Bore Kits" even more . . . http://www.cyclegarden.com/big_bore_kits.php

As far as I know, yes, mostly. The pinging might perhaps also have to do with inferior quality fuel. On top of "all the sensors and computer are working correctly" there is making sure that there are no air leaks between the throttle bodies and the cylinder. That could make a good map run lean. The big question is, however, have you done everything in the "decent tune up"? If you haven't made absolutely sure that all the basic stuff is right, you are shooting at a moving target trying to find out what is not right. Edit: bugger, docc was faster. How does he do that?

While "this logic makes sense", trying to index the throttle opening to a random point on the mapping, simply to add more fuel, leads to other undesirable issues. Most proven method is to baseline the critical parameters at the outset:

Like this?

Not today, but didn't post the discs yet. Taken off my track Mille before I sold it, straight fit on the V11 and stops a whole lot better.

This is the last report about my experience under a biblical deluge on Monday 22nd of July 2024. This was an absolute first in my life. I had never been exposed to that kind of rain intensity and duration on a motorcycle before. I did look at the weather forecast, and while it specified overcast with chance of rain, it did not exactly paint what it really was. Up to Grande Saline, the skies were dark, but no rain at all. I left Grande Saline at 14:30 and I almost immediately encountered rain. Most of the travel was on 287 then 19, and I rejoined I-45 at Hunstville. Various roads, and while still under heavy rain, Farm to Market roads had almost no 18 wheelers, which made for better visibility. I also used some county roads, which surfaces were sometimes in very poor conditions. In the process of doing some stops for the Texas Motorcycle Tour 2024, I decided to make a loop to complete those points I had missed because of my starter problem earlier that month. Here's the map of the intended loop: 506 miles and a theoretical duration of 8:37 minutes, as per google maps. The total trip duration does not include any stop. Find below the trip log as it happened, with the real times, the mileage is computed automatically between the departure and arrival points. Note that in any case the Guzzi odometer always comes short. The Michelin Road 6 experience: How can you review tires without factual data? how can you provide an unbiased opinion? how can you describe a very personal experience and feeling? Difficult, but I am going to try; The Michelin Road 6 that equip my V11 have about 5k miles on them. As far as I understand, tires are evaluated on special closed tracks which are artificially made wet by a deluge system. My experience was under the pouring rain, different asphalt quality, asphalt not evacuating water making hydroplaning one of the hazard. Obviously, other vehicles circulating, including trucks, both ways. Poor visibility, traffic lights. The conditions were very different from that encountered on a closed track. Am I biased? I am inclined to say yes. When I was a kid in the 60's, Michelin was present on the beaches, entertained the kids with Michelin men balloons, or Lego like Michelin men to build. So I heard about Michelin early in my life. Long time before I even got my first motorcycle. However, before Guzzi, I never installed a Michelin tire on any of my 70's motorcycles! exclusively Dunlop K-81. Michelin Tires seem to be more expensive than the rest of the known brands, Bridgestone, Pirelli, Dunlop, Metzeler... I don't know the reason, either marketing or... else. Back to what I did during those four hours, I rode the bike until I could feel the hydroplaning symptoms creep. Sometimes, I would be able to get to max posted speed, 75 mph. Other times, the bike started to feel unstable at 50 mph; again depending on how intense the rain at that time, and the asphalt having a thin layer of water. I kept my distance with preceding vehicles, also because the mist coming from the back of the trucks would impair vision. As you know, from a distance, you do not even see the rear lights! I did some hard braking tests, not emergency braking, but hard enough. Conclusion; I developed a lot of trust in my tires. Since those FM roads had a lot of curves, I felt at ease and relaxed. Maybe I would have felt the same on other tire brands, maybe not. In any case, I vouch for the Road 6. Now, this experience was unique in that nobody wants to go riding a motorcycle under heavy rain for any amount of time, if it can be avoided. Today we still have the same bad weather in H'town. It seems that we can only have a pickling sun or drenching rains. Never anything in between. Those were my six cents about the Road 6...

@doccThanks, I will contact them. If anybody has answers, they do. Here is an interesting reply to a question posted up on an old GS thread. Some good info here. Hi, I have Wilbers (front/rear) on my R12GS since more than 30000km. I understand the basics so perhaps I can help out. The most important part on the number combination on your spring is the '150' indicating the spring rate. My Wilbers springs carry the same numbers, and I weigh 86kg, and the pillion weighs 70kg, and then there's the luggage. So you're allright as far as springrate goes. Springrate on these bikes is usually 140, 150, 160. Now some basic info. Imagine a bike hanging in the air. As it comes down and sits on it's springs, it goes down a bit called the 'static' sag. As a rider mounts the bike, it goes down even more : the 'dynamic' sag. The 'dynamic' sag is supposed to remain equal, no matter how much weight is put on the bike; that's why there's a preload knob for adjustment. The trouble is that it's not easy to find out what the basic dynamic sag is, i.e. when riding solo. That's where Wilbers are clever : in the factory they put the minimum preload according to weight of rider (as specified when ordered). This exact minimum preload means that the rider will have the correct dynamic sag when riding solo. From there on, he can adjust for more weight by increasing the preload.* What some people don't realise, is that this factory installed minimum preload can be altered on the spring, for more or less solo weight. Otherwise Wilbers would have to produce hundreds of different springs for different riders' weights. And as a nice advantage to us customers Wilbers springs/dampers can be sold on to a rider with a different weight. To be specific : you have bought a second hand Wilbers and can have the minimum preload changed so that it fits your weight (preferably by someone who knows how). But, since you are heavier than the specified weight you have this option : when riding solo you can simply adjust the preload above the minimum installed by the factory. This means trying out different preload positions and measuring dynamic sag 'till you get it right for riding solo. (To make it clear : if you were lighter than the specified rider weight, you would imperatively have to get the factory installed minimum preload decreased, or accept to ride solo with slightly wrong dynamic sag). As far as damping (rebound) goes, this is a Very Personal Matter. Damping influences roadholding AND comfort. The best way to find out what YOU like, is to testride the bike with different damping settings. If the damping is too open, the bike will start wallowing around, perhaps plushy, but not efficient in roadholding. With the rebound damping too closed the spring will not have the time to rebound before the next bump arrives, actually diminishing spring travel, diminishing roadholding... and the ride will get uncomfortably hard. It is false to think that a hard damping setup will result in better roadholding. In any case it's a compromise that you have to find out for yourself. Here's what I did : I went on a calm stretch of road with different curves and changing 'bumpiness' (that's important), and tried out different settings, always driving the same stretch. I opened the damping completely to understand the consequences, then closed it completely for the same reason, and then worked with small adjustments till I got it right to my taste. It took me a couple of hours. I like technique so I had a blast. For those who think this is all too complicated : it isn't, it's actually easy and a hoot ! And the reward is : an incredible improvement over the BMW stock solution. I'm convinced you'll enjoy your Wilbers ! Have fun ! * And here's the big difference with preload on a standard BMW spring : since BMW don't know how heavy the rider is, preload is set somewhere in the middle. It's up to the rider to find out the exact amount of preload he has to install for riding solo. This means the rider has to know about dynamic sag, and measure this for himself. I don't know dealers who explain this, I know even less riders who ride with the right basic set up. BTW the same basic error (BMW not knowing how heavy the rider is, and thus possible wrong preload) exists with ESA.

I repossessed my Le Mans yesterday, and the Michelin Road 5s were a complete shocker to me.... As I was going to turn left on Park Ten boulevard, I thought I had a technical issue as the bike just dropped into the turn with the usual input. I stopped and had a visual check, everything seemed fine. Doing a succession of left and rights to warm and scrub the tires on the I-10 feeder, I quickly realized the new tires were the culprits for that new handling. It felt like I was on a different motorcycle. I no longer needed to firmly curb the bike into curves, it read my mind, and I just had to feather it, no matter how sharp the turn radius. Mesmerizing and exhilarating! I can't wait to go back to the 3 Twisted Sisters and Brothers to check it out. The Michelin tires which were on the bike when I got it were of a different type (Pilot race 2). The front tire allegedly new according to the dealer who sold the bike to me. I am just taken aback by the complete feel change, while everything else remained the same. Which reinforces my belief that changing tires often is essential. Now I am not going to advocate Michelin just yet; I will need to verify how other brands and types fare. This is a time when I'd wish I could have multiple Le Mans equipped with different tires, just so one can really fine tune the choice. I am really impressed by those new tires though.