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Proof positive that if you cannot fit a round peg into a square hole, Moto Guzzi may not be for you . . . Nicely done, @DucatiGuzziIndian! Thanks for sharing all the details!

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Yes, it pays to really look at that stuff when the bike is going back together, really pay attention to what you are doing. I had one where the V35 Imola was "hesistant" at a particular engine speed. Nothing visible, but it turned out that the one plug cap just wasn't quite seated correctly. Another one: in the course of doing something or other under the tank, I had pushed the plug leads out of the way, maybe pulled on one whilst replacing the tank. Whatever, I didn't even notice it running badly, but the next time I looked under the tank I saw the damage. The lead out of the r/h coil was not plugged up properly. It was still sparking, but the shroud that the plug sits on around the contact had been eroded away to the extent that about a third of the material was gone. Cost me a new coil just for being careless.

Had a good time at Misano today except for MM usual dirty riding at the end,seems he can’t help himself, He was basically boo’d out of the place by the entire Grandstand heading back to Rimini now, Then its off to The Dolomite’s early in the morning.. a few days up there then I guess I’ll do Stelvio and maybe stop by Mandello on the way back down south..,the v85 was excellent in the downhill switch backs around Tavullia yesterday thats where it shows its best… Its been Hot and humid for a couple weeks now.

As others have pointed out, the ride height does not so much change the actual weight on the front (typically around 43-45% with the rider on a Spineframe), yet significantly affects handling geometry. No doubt, the spring selection is fundamental to making all the other parameters work well together. A link to similar discussion and the post referencing my 5.5mm longer Öhlins:

I managed to complete the LED turn signal conversion with the help of the great advice from you guys.... many thanks. I tidied up the rear end at the same time because I never really liked the stock rear fender. I have attached photos and the parts I used. The diode advice was invaluable and although it was a little fiddly to do, it was pretty simple in the end. I am not an electrical whizz that is for sure, but I was able to figure it out. The diodes specified earlier in this thread worked perfectly. They needed to be installed inside the instrument housing. I purchased the LED turn signal flasher unit that docc recommended above and swapped that out quickly and easily. I purchased LED turn signals and LED brake lights from Amazon and went to a local electronics supplier for the diodes and 12v LED dash indicator lamp. I had to file the new LED dash indicator lamp outer ring a little so that it fitted into the square hole in the instrument housing where the old lamp resided. I then added some small O-rings to the outer body of the lamp to take up the free play between the LED body and the hole it fitted into. These O-rings created just enough resistance to make sure it doesn't slide around in the hole so that was a stroke of luck. I also purchased an off the shelf fender eliminator bracket from Cyclegear (a retail motorcycle parts store). There are many different fender eliminators around and while the license plate and turn signal holders are all fairly common from one type to the next (a simple rectangle with four holes for the license plate and a two bent "L" shaped brackets with holes for the turn signal stalks), the connection to the bike under the seat cowl is the tricky bit. The item I purchased had an extension that went up above the plate and signal brackets that was around 100-120 mm high with a variety of slots in it. The slots just happened to allow use of the three fasteners (with some added spacers) under the seat, where the stock bracket connected. Another lucky coincidence. I tried to find an image of this on the Cyclegear website but they don't show it so apologies for that. I simple bent piece of aluminium plate 100mm wide x 1.5 - 2.00mm thick would work. After you form it, and drill the mounting holes, just clean it with solvent and spray it satin black. To those who are not electrically inclined and to those that think this is a difficult task, I will say it may take some care, detailed thinking and a day of time but the brightness of the LEDs makes it worthwhile. And the cost is low; total for me was around $100 USD. The turn signals are sequential and are so much brighter than stock. The brake lights are also a huge improvement in visibility. I chose a second LED brake light for added visibility for two reasons; the main upper tail light is tucked up pretty high and I was concerned about how visible it would be and I also wanted a more noticeable indication of when I was braking. The lower second brake light I installed (Custom Dynamics brand) flashes a few times when activated and then stays on. This is many times more noticeable than the upper brake light I installed. I'll try to add a video to show this. This light is attached with VHB tape directly to the license plate frame. My last task yet to be completed, is to cut a piece of black 1.5mm thick ABS plastic sheet to fit behind the license plate and extend upwards to the underside of the cowl just to keep dirt and water spray from directly hitting wires and fasteners. At some stage I may look at shortening the aluminum blocks that the front turn signals mount to. They are the stock indicator mounts but they are a little on the long side for my liking.

Now , I am not smart enuf to look up history on this forum . I did Google "testing the charging system on a Moto Guzzi V11 Lemans" and got lots of hits and the all referred to this forum . Most conversations go WAY back and are interesting for sure . Docc , Roy and others were already at the head of the class on this subject. Two critical points are 1 make sure you are using a GOOD and fully charged battery. 2 make sure you have a ground wire running from the regulator to a close bolt on the engine block. Use shakeproof washers on both sides of the terminal on a clean surface along with a non-melting grease .Do not go from the regulator to the battery neg. terminal . If the factory neg. wiring in the harness fails w/this in place you will have troubles and I mean TROUBLES . Remember , these charging systems are rinky-dink and just recharge the battery , they are not an electrical generating station . Treat them as such . If you are pretty smart on 12 DC ( I know an alternator puts out AC voltage) electrical systems read the post Phil posted above 3 or 4 times to appreciate all the info in the article. You will spend a good amount of time learnin' about what you need to know for in the future. Good Luck

13.2 volts headlight on or headlight off? If it's with headlight off then check the voltage with headlight on. Here's some troubleshooting info from Brad Blacks site. It's for Ducati systems but the Guzzi is basically a Ducati single phase system. https://www.bikeboy.org/chargingsystemdiagnostic.html Phil

YES

That's this again, isn't it?

That would be this, I gather Thanks, that gives me ideas.

Sounds about perfect. Renting a V85tt there at Mandela from Agostini’s is what turned my attention to that bike…. loved it, and didn’t really expect to. Might be old news for you, but the roads above Varenna, up from Perledo toward Esino, then keep on wrapping up higher in elevation past paso agueglio, and over toward Parlasco, thats some real nice riding. Of course finding good roads over there is like shootin’ fish in a barrel, but thats a nice little run near to Mandello. Jealous, except for the heat. But not exactly cool over here…. I was over not too far from your home turf, at chico, where it was 107F, and windy, and watched that Park Fire explode right before my eyes. enjoy

Brembo SSP discs, I use them for my trackbikes and now on the Guzzi as well.

BMW Motorcycles of Escondido is now renamed Moto San Diego, and they have expanded their line-up to include Moto Guzzi and Aprilia, instead of being a one-brand shop. https://www.motosandiego.com/ At the moment, they are only showing five Moto Guzzis and five Aprilias in stock. But I think it's worth a ride over tomorrow morning on a Moto Guzzi, just to get acquainted. This shop tried carrying some Piaggio brands several years ago, but it failed. I don't know the circumstances, but I think that was at a time that a lot of people were complaining about how hard it was to work with Piaggio. Hopefully things are better now. This shop is right around the corner from Moto Forza, which carries Ducati, Husqvarna, Triumph, MV Agusta, Royal Enfield, Vespa. Previously, my closest Moto Guzzi (GP Motorcycles) was 30 miles away. Now I have one only 14 miles away. Much closer....

I'm messin' w/ya

Corny, but nice! The final is the lighting of a cauldron which is then flown above the Louvre. The torch bearer were Carl Lewis, Rafael Nadal, Nadia Comaneci and Serena Williams. Wearing inflatable safety vests... lol!

Roadstercycle.com Shindengen SH847. Works wonder for your electricial system. Cheers Tom.

A simple perfect tool for Phase sensor distance. Cheers Tom Sent fra min SM-A505FN via Tapatalk

I find the easiest way to gap the sensor is to stick something like a glob of JB Weld on the tip, bolt it in place, wait for the JBW to set up then remove it again and measure the blob with a pair of callipers.

He was also instrumental in developing a rescue boat for the navy. Sorry, I'm a Lawrence geek. And I've wondered what modern bike Lawrence might ride. The V11 always comes to mind. I wonder if he would have a non-Brit machine? I think I've chickened out at about 125 mph on the V11. Speedo wobbles so much that it's hard to tell.

70 mph on Brit roads 80 years ago on a Brough should equate to 120 on a V11 today.

My Dad lived on a farm in Dorset as a lad, he often spoke of seeing and hearing Lawence and his Brough riding along the main road near Blandford army camp. It was rumoured locally he would go through a set of tyres in a two week leave. Dad also told a story about Geoff Duke racing at Blandford Camp, he came to a bend and saw a rider laying in the track. Sadly he was dead, at the inquest Duke was asked how he avoided hitting him, 'Oh, I just laid the bike down and slid to a stop.'.

Interesting. I had cutouts/misfires and the strangest shit starting around 3k rpm once, even that bad that when I held the throttle WO, she would just die. What it was? Previous owner most likely placed a non-oil compatible and too large o-ring around the sensor, which pushed it away from the phonic wheel. When the o-ring was oil-saturated and the engine became properly hot (city traffic), going above 3k rpm caused her to die.... Was clearly visibly by the sensor mounting plate to be bent outwards.