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Yeah, I know that post was a few years ago... but Greenies are timeless.

Moto Guzzi Le Mans Tenni. 1064cc. 2003. Limited edition-only 170 produced worldwide. Good overall condition. Everything works. Runs well. Sounds glorious. Low mileage for a big block Moto Guzzi-under 15 000. I've owned it for around 9 years and have only done around 2000 miles as I use other bikes too. Clutch and flywheel have been replaced with twin plate version shortly after I bought it. Valve clearances checked and oil and filter changed about 1000 miles ago. New original headlight recently fitted. I have Tekno panniers and frames, which I'll include. No current MOT as I have not been using it. My riding now tends to be local lanes and off trade trails. The bike was recorded as Cat D in 2005. It has got a couple of damaged fins on the RH cylinder head-pictured. I didn't notice when I bought it, which was a bit careless, though they had been concealed. I did buy a perfect replacement RH cylinder head which can be available via negotiaton. Some paint imperfections-not damage. I do not have the brown suede seat which came with the bike as a spare when new. Photos are from when the bike was last in use. Located in Guisborough, N Yorks. Send a message if you want to arrange viewing. Payment on collection. Prefer bank transfer. £3500 ono. Sent from my SM-S901B using Tapatalk

This is the best looking Greenie on the planet. Personally I think it's the best looking Guzzi ever. Just my un biased opinion.

Greetings all, I am a new owner of a 2001 Greenie, formerly owned by forum member GMC28. It was a real stroke of luck to find a V11 that had received so much care from a meticulous owner, and only a few miles from home. The bike was ready to ride straightaway, which I've happily been doing, along with a little maintenance as I gather information from this forum. Thanks to all who contribute their experiences here, I don't think I've had a question that hasn't already been answered.

That is vastly understated considering the immense effort and expertise to mount a V10 Hi-cam in a V11 RedFrame. Along with the collection of subtle fasteners of titanium turned on a lathe. And on and on. Looks something like five years in the making.

I occasionally have downshifts fail to engage (usually 5th to 4th) but sometimes 4th to 3rd also. Removed, cleaned and lubed the linkage components, also adjusted to recommended angles with ample clearance of shift lever to frame. This helped but didn't completely eliminate the issues, hoping there are more extenders available, the simple fix would be great. If not, the behind the cover mods will go on the winter maintenance list. Glad that you all have this figured out, I doubt if my strategy of forceful cursing would yield desired results.

Have you got Guzzidiag? Connect it up, and have a look at the CO trim. I've read about some rather extreme settings. I was able to watch a couple of experts set up a V11. They started with a CO trim of -10, and tried out steps of plus and minus 10 to get the best result. The test was how the motor responded to throttle from idle, i.e. exactly the range that you are talking about. Give it a try, it might help.

I never tire of looking at it docc. It's still evolving. Just need to keep the DNA of the original and not get carried away and turn it into some sort of "custom bike". Instrument upgrade will be the next mission I think. Phil

Slave cyl. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-S906B via Tapatalk

You NEED this on your bike . I once said "it goes from shifting like a H Farmall to a Japanese liter bike . The stock linkage on the V11 has r.h. threads on both rod ends so you cannot adjust the shift linkage up or down . I've got some part #s for a l.h. thread rod end and rod to make a adjustable linkage !

Re-adjusting the TPS solved the problem. Unfortunately my initial electrical connections were not good enough to determine its pre-existing setting. Establishing good connections showed that there is significant throttle shaft wear causing about 40mV variability in the TPS setting. Throttle shaft wear can be felt by letting the return spring hold the throttle shaft closed and wobbling the lower nut on the throttle shaft. Both shafts are worn (24,500 miles) but the right side is worse maybe because the idle stop screw is on the right side. I set the TPS so 150mV was the absolute minimum reading when pushing on the throttle shaft nut. This usually resulted in 160-165mV when the throttle was closed by releasing the twist grip. Snapping the throttle shut or holding it closed with fingers resulted in greater variability in the reading but never less than 150mV. BTW all TPS voltages were measured with the headlight turned off (disconnected) to minimize battery voltage drain. Resetting the TPS eliminated the surging and pinging but it was not as smooth so I rebalanced throttles at 3000rpm and re-adjusted air bypass screws for idle. The right side air bypass screw is turned in more than the left probably due to the throttle shaft being worn more on the right. We then went on a 1000 mile ride in temps up to 100F and 0-5600' elevation and the bike ran very well - smooth without surging or pinging. 40-42 mpg. The only complaint is the throttle transition from off to on or on to off is too abrupt, probably due to throttle shaft wear. Are any throttle shaft repair kits available for these throttle bodies? Thanks for your help.

Been looking for a while, finally found one close to home.

The video I posted docc has some good insights to vise design and explains some of the technical features and limitations of various types.

Of course the disadvantage of this vise is the threaded shaft is exposed to damage from whatever you are holding in the vise. Phil

Welcom to the forum, and to the world of proper motorbikes for real blokes. Or something like that. PS: check your profile. You've got a "V&III Racer" according to the "My Bikes" bit. Looks a lot like "let go of the upper case button too late" to me.

I don't even want to think about that...

I made a tool to get the clearance correct , easyly made in an afternoon. I didn't want to put anything inside the engine. Picture here somewhere, may be june 21. Cheers Tom.

A fabulous day out at the VMCC Founders day at Stanford Hall today

Yes they were a special order. Roland doesn't seem to be listing them anymore which doesn't surprise me. Phil

Hi everyone, I am now a new owner of a 2000 V11 sport. It is actually the bike which was recently sold by forum member Velofish. I have to say that I have been lurking on here for about two weeks now and there is such a wealth of information here! I want to send out a thank you right away to all of you for posting all of it, I have already leaned a ton and will continue to read through all the FAQs and How Tos. Velofish did a great job of performing and documenting the regular maintenance so she runs great which allows me to enjoy riding while working on 'quality of life improvements.' My first order of business on this beautiful machine is getting her gauges working. Currently the Speedo has the classic wobble and the Tach is non-functional. Thanks to all of the posts here I have already been able to narrow down the Speedo wobble to either the speedo drive gear at the transmission end or a bend in the cable. I will confirm which by the weekend. A little warning that you might see a couple of old threads resurrected as I search through all the great past discussions for similar issues to what I am dealing with and posting either more questions or confirming that I was able to resolve the issue following what others have already done! I have already got my Guzzidiag and TPS cables on order for the Decent Tune Up and am building a spreadsheet of all the other little parts and pieces will need as I plan to execute the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist later this year.

You may have a bad regulator, heres a simple test you can do. I have dismantled 3 Ducati regulators, the common fault seems to be the diodes come unsoldered, the symptoms are weak charging. It's quite easy to check the diodes because they are wired directly to the yellow and red wires. If you have a multimeter with diode test put Red terminal on each yellow wire, Black terminal on red wire and you should see somewhere between 0.4 - 0.6 Volts. If you don't have the multimeter you can use a battery and ammeter or small lamp the ammeter should indicate or lamp should light up if the diodes are OK. (Battery positive to Yellow wire, Red wire to ammeter (lamp), ammeter (lamp) to battery negative) If you don't get a circuit through one of the diodes or it's erratic charging will be weak. Because the diodes are wired directly to Yellow & Red wires it's possible to hang another diode on the outside in parallel as a temporary fix. I successfully opened up my regulator and soldered the diode back together. Roy Regulator Basic.pdf