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The copper will be from the rocker arm brass/bronze shims and valve guides. A known heavy wear item on a Guzzi BB engine.

I used to take oil samples for analysis as part of my job on commercial jet engines and send them off to Mobil labs for reports etc. Every engine had it's records kept and reviewed as part of it's history. I also used to do the Mag plug pulls all the time to monitor specific engine areas for problems so I'm fairly well versed in this area. The car forums are full of guys that send their oil out to Blackstones for regular analysis and in my opinion they are basically deluded. Same for the motorcycle world but to a lesser extent. An oil analysis programme is designed for commercial use such as airlines and trucking companies and earth moving equipment etc where you can't afford to have machinery down and or there is a lot of money to be saved in catching internal issues early before a failure or in the case of light aircraft engines an in flight failure where the consequences can be dire. The powerplants are also often working in the upper regions of their design parameters so are being pushed fairly hard. it's not really designed for the average Joe to do on his road vehicles. Why you may ask? Well because you need to ask yourself a simple question. Am I prepared to remove and strip down an engine on the strength of an oil report or a series of oil reports that show a particular trending? If there's any hesitation in the answer "yes I am" then you are wasting your time and just giving yourself something to worry about and keep you up at nights. In large organisations the answer is an unequivocal "yes" and that's what happens. The 10 million dollar engine is pulled and sent to the shop for a strip down or part strip down and component replacement. It's a commercial decision. Private owners, well not so much. Emotion and the hip pocket become seriously involved. Can you imagine having a discussion with a manufacturer about a replacement engine under warranty for your car that is running fine and giving no issues on the strength of an oil analysis that had a question mark in some area/s. I'd love to be at that meeting. I know what the outcome would be. No, a UOA programme is not for the average owner. Having one done to give piece of mind or confirm a suspicion from time to time maybe, but in general it's a complication you don't need. The car guys all proudly present their Blackstone reports on forums that are all fine no issues of course but they still don't have an answer for the "what if it's not perfect" or there are questionable areas. None have an answer for that, so in my view it's just naval gazing for the sake of it. I guess the next must do trend will be regular boroscopes of the cylinders, lol. Of course Labs that do the UOA aren't going to turn business away and happily get on the band wagon of the deluded. Business is business after all. Phil

You can easily find them on the Internet. Blackstone Laboratories. https://www.blackstone-labs.com/engine-types/motorcycle/ This is the analysis I ordered: https://www.blackstone-labs.com/product/oil-tbn/ The basic analysis is $35. I personally think it is a good way to check that nothing is abnormal in your engine. Here's a write-up about the benefits of getting an oil baseline for your motorcycle. Obviously, a way for the laboratory to get more customers. https://www.blackstone-labs.com/motorcycle-analysis/

It is not my motorcycle. This is a Moto Guzzi Quota though, and that is why I liked the photo. The guy that rode all the way up there is from Spain. He is also a Moto Guzzi aficionado.... sadly, he does not graze on our side of the pasture! although everyone has a notion of English, I am yet to see a single post in the Shakespeare language from him.

Yep. The first thing to learn is that "it ain't a Honda." It *is* a kool machine, though, and worth the trouble to learn about it.

Do not neglect your brake fluid and caliper piston service at every (every) tire change. The difference in brake feel, even after a year, is always delightful and rewarding. And, yes, thoroughly clean both rear drive hub surfaces. Klüber Stabürags makes me happy here . . . Perhaps, above all, do not neglect the right side rear drive needle cage, inboard of the right swingarm. Unlikely that any shop technician will see to this critical lubrication point! Make no mistake, neglecting this simple (but hidden) clean/grease maintenance can become perilous for our rear drive . . .

Portugal, Vilanova de Cerveira

Cool indeed, maybe the coolest of all. Learning is half the fun, especially when the quality of info is as high as what is offered here After many years of owning and enjoying several flavors of Honda VFRs, it feels safe to say "they all have their problems"

Ack...I'm a little late chiming in... New phone..lost P words but YES..I went thru the "was my tranny replaced" fiasco. My 1st ray of hope was the Grey sealer smeared around bell housing etc. I was clinging to that when after a couple e-mails and phone calls Steve Spinoza of Piaggio confirmed the tranny change in 2004....pheww..after a couple nay sayers from dealers/MG USA insisted they would not have 24yo records. Try to contact Steve Spinoza /Piaggio....3rd and final relief was Grey sealer smeared inside tranny..pheww! In parting I gotta give a major shout out to V 11 LeMans and in particularly DOCC and SCUD and a couple more. I could not have made it without you all.👍🤣😃 thank you ! Presently the Sport is languishing while I'm dealing with a failing hip. Was really loving the beast up until 2 weeks ago and had 2 rides getting the OEM Clipons back on and sorted out.i much prefer-am used to that position... not sure if my 73 yo self agrees yet. We'll see...need a good 200mi trip to get a real idea. Last time out I picked up a screw in the front..got it home on temp plug..then did inside plug then hip became the issue. Down to next BIG(not😃) project...the PINK PORK CHOP ! God I Hate that! 🤣 Also looking at LeMans fairings. I'd love that. THANKS AGAIN YOU GUYS !!!

You got me ? I found it out when I was making my own linkage extender . I couldn't understand why I was turning the shaft and getting nowhere . Somewhere out in the shop I've got the part #s and the place I bought the stuff. If anyone wants it I will post it.

Looks like there is a better shaft seal alternative out there docc than the Yamaha seals. Viton. Not cheap but CA cycleworks sell quality stuff. https://ca-cycleworks.com/t-seal.html Phil

There have been a lot of recurrent questions about which oil is best for our beloved Vs. I have decided to get an oil analysis after each oil change on my V11; starting with Liqui Moly. Next will be Motul V Twin. Now, if the high copper contents is confirmed for my next oil change, what should I look at changing for those of you that have gone through that already.

I have, all good.

This is the type of thinking that put me on the battery conditioning crusade. Just my considered opinion, but our V11 G-string-of-a-charging-system should not be expected to actually "charge" a deficient AGM like the Odyssey PC545. In my opinion, that is a formula for overheating the charging system, component failures, and poor running conditions.

A thought has been bothering me all evening. I really don't know if it is relevant, but it wont leave me alone. The 30A fuse is between the regulator/rectifier and the battery. Some types of load suck power, as much as the source can supply. Lower voltage for a given power figure means higher currents. We've already established that higher current across a resistance causes more warmth generation. So what if the regulator (or the alternator) is not providing enough volts (some previous posts indicate that this might be the case) and the battery is pulling more current to try and get charged? As far as I know, batteries are one of the types of load that do that. Over and above the question about the quality of the regulator/rectifier, are you sure that the battery is good?

If your keeping the bike, very happy with # 2. Have installed 4 from Roadstercycle, perfect charging. Cheers Tom.

👍 Very glad to be of any help..

That..

I just emailed Piaggio customer service and specifically mentioned Steven Espinoza's fine detective work performed for you. Thanks for providing that info, hoping it speeds up resolving the mystery.

so much to learn...

If only it was that simple. As far as I'm aware the issue was with heat treatment and the updated parts are dimensionally identical to the original components. I have a gearbox I'd like to confirm as well. Phil

The chap at the top of the page got confirmation that his recall was completed in 2004, it may take more than one call to get some info. I seem to recall that the PO said my bike sat in a crate for a number of years before the dealer finally sold it. They performed a post sat-too-long service before the first owner took delivery. I'm hoping (praying, dreaming) that service may have included the recall.

Mine in the shop now because it over shifts into neutral. The guy that owns the shop just bought a Scura, it does the same thing. They're going to work on both bikes, learn from mine. I forget to mention the recall. The good news is the burned electrical connections are fixe along with a new battery.

My VIN ends in 113064 and when I enquired with Piaggio they told me their records do not go back that far, <2009! I believe you will need to inspect it to determine if parts have been replaced, but good luck. Perhaps I just got an idiot that told me the wrong thing... Please let us know how you go.

The link in the recall doesn't appear to be active quite yet, but thank you for pointing it out.

Buzzkill! My VIN is ZGUKRAKR51M113174. build date 6-2000. Looks like I need to put in a call to Piaggio. Unless someone points out I'm reading it all wrong.

Sold Thank you.

I never tire of looking at it docc. It's still evolving. Just need to keep the DNA of the original and not get carried away and turn it into some sort of "custom bike". Instrument upgrade will be the next mission I think. Phil

Yeah, I know that post was a few years ago... but Greenies are timeless.

I suppose I could buy @Tom in Virginia's V11 to bring a Spiner to the XX'th, but, even now with "only" three Guzzis, I can't keep up with DMV bureaucracy and maintenance, etc., much less ride them as much as these sweet beasts deserve. But I can at least get the V85 ready for the run down to Tennessee. And, you'll be seeing double as first-time-Raider @AJ Howard will be on his Oreo Guard, too. He and his on the left in this pic of a ferry ride across the Ohio River in May. We're taking two days, with an RON as usual at Princeton, W.V. Kathi will drive the "support van," which means she'll also get to control my road food. Sigh. Life's full of tradeoffs. In the meantime, my Guardia is on the lift for its conveniently timed 12.4K service. Best, Bill

Adding a couple more photos... Happy to send high resolution photos to anyone if needed. Will be packed and wrapped properly to ensure no damage in shipment.

A fabulous day out at the VMCC Founders day at Stanford Hall today

Took the Rosso Corsa to this evenings Guzzi Club meet

I have a set of Mistral on my V7, absolutely love them. With the DB killers removed, it's music!

Oh man, egg on my face. After looking at my order confirmation again, I accidentally order the 24v relays🤦

These are 24volts relays - diode protected . . . . The ones to get for our V11s from Picker Components >> PC782-1C-12S-R-X https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/picker-components/pc782-1c-12s-r-x/12352866

I understand and definitely appreciate this mindset. I remember when he replaced it and he was satisfied with how it worked but I don't think was ever nuts about how it looked. I just can't drop $600+ on a used Veglia right now. I have had 3 go bad in one way or the other on my Stone over the last 20 years so I am a bit hesitant to invest the money on a tach that might kind of work but will look good. This is my only bike with an analog tach. My Stone is just a speedo and my BMW has a digital screen. Seeing a digital bar raise and lower isn't nearly as fun as watching that tach needle rise and fall !

Thanks @docc! You guys have been so helpful with all this info you've been providing me, I really appreciate it!

Cheaper, check connections from alternator. Bulletconnectors and all kind of horrible connections. Mine started to flip the tach, then misfiring and dead. Melted connectors. Cheers Tom.

Before you do that, make sure the headlight is working. In the headlight there are two bulbs, one standard low beam / high beam headlight bulb and one running light bulb. It is easy to mistake the running light bulb being on for the headlight working. If the headlight bulb isn't working the regulator won't properly charge the battery. Because it uses the voltage on the headlight circuit after the headlight bulb to measure battery voltage. The bulb can be burnt out or the circuit might be off (blown fuse or faulty relay). You may need a new regulator, but make sure before going that way.

Was owned by Ben... Ben Messtwith.

It would be easy to declare the regulator/rectifier on the V11 series prone to troubles. No doubt, you should go out to the garage right now and add a substantial ground strap from the regulator case to the timing chest of the engine. While you're at it, add a good ground strap from the same spot to the frame, and make absolutely certain your battery-to-gearbox ground is clean and solid. Be sure your 30 amp regulator fuse has good contact and is not melted or burned. At 92,600 miles (149.000 km), I am on my third Ducati Energia regulator. The original lasted almost 5 years/37,200 miles replaced by a dealer supplied part for 245 USD in 2005. That unit lasted just over 5 years/34,500 miles and was replaced by a unit from EuroMotoElectrics in Colorado, USA, for 140 USD in 2010. It is still in service after over 4 years/30,000 miles. Their written recommendations included adding a ground "direct to battery and/or engine strongly recommended." I did this at that time and have much better charging voltage. Sometime in the next 6-12 months, I'll find out if that alone extends the life of the regulator. But, I also found this warning, which I never noticed before: BEWARE: DO NOT charge or jump start without disconnecting Voltage Regulator/Rectifier from the battery. First, I don't consider having to replace this part a couple times in 14 years as excessive. Second, I hope I don't have to replace it again anytime soon. But mainly, should I take the 30 amp regulator fuse out while doing routine charging? It would be easy and could be something I've always done wrong.

I guess what I was trying to say is that I was going to use disconnect the reference wire, and use the black wire (on the charge light side once disconnected) to go to #86 of the relay, and connect #87 to the black reference wire (on the regulator side). I already have a no load power wire from the battery (fused) that would connect to #30 of the relay. It's from the headlight relay that used to be in the headlight bucket that was removed a while ago. Make sense? I'm assuming the the black wire you call the reference wire is attached to the same SAE connector as the white wire.

I think the biggest downfall of the Ducati Energia regulators is the way they measure the Voltage not at the battery but after the headlight relay (after the start relay and the headlight relay on some like my 2001). At this point the Voltage is about 1/2 Volt lower than the battery so to satisfy the regulator setting of 13.8 Volts the battery has to reach 13.8 + 0.5 or 14.3 Volts If the relay pins become a bit corroded or you replace the headlamp with a higher Wattage unit the battery Voltage is pushed even higher. Since charging current v/s charging Voltage is sort of an exponential curve it doesn't take much to push the regulator too far causing the leads to melt a lead off one of the internal diodes effectively cutting the charge capability in half. I believe they sense the Voltage after the headlight relay is because the regulator electronics draws 15 mA which would quite quickly flatten the battery if left on the headlight relay removes power when the key is off. I think using a separate relay Battery + to the black wire would solve this overcharging problem but then the battery Voltage would drop to 13.8 without the benefit of Voltage drop . Actually adding headlight relays powered direct from the battery effectively does this, without the headlight current passing through the circuit the Voltage drop disappears so the battery will charge to about 1/2 Volt less. (there is a simple way to compensate for the lower Voltage i.e. make the regulator adjustable) Another way to cure this problem is to fit a later or after market direct connected regulator. They draw a constant current from the battery even when the bike is off but with modern components it's a lot lower (13.8 mA in the case of Electrosport's ESR510 BTW, don't try to run the bike with the headlight relay pulled or the fuse out to save power because the battery will not be charging.

Where did you find the info on the warning for charging? Is that from EME? I also noticed the "not recommended for use with Odyssey or Lithium Iron (yes, Iron)" batteries. I wonder if that's part of the issue with the original R/R's. They were designed for use with lead acid batteries, and quite a few of us are using Odyssey or newer technology batteries. I still had my original R/R in my bike until I decided to "upgrade" to an ESR510 2 years ago, and have had nothing but problems with them. Just a thought, and keep in mind that I have no idea about charging methods of these newer technology batteries. Hell, I was at Home Depot yesterday looking at cordless drills, and the sales person mentioned that the Makita drills required the multi chemistry chargers for their batteries. No idea what that's about. Ken