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In reference to the 30 amp fuse topic, I swapped mine for a circuit breaker. However that wire is still heating and melting.. I wonder if this all has something to do with that.

14.2, but not more than 15.0. This is the Odyssey PC545 range. If you have opted for a non-OEM battery for your V11 SpineFrame, YMMV . . .

Hi all, nearly 20 years ago there was a thread on this forum about possibly converting a V11 to run on E85. In some countries (France, Sweden, Australia, Brazil E100 ) there is a big price advantage for E85 fuel, and various companies offer kits for converting bikes. E.g https://eflexfuel.com/us/moto-products https://www.ecofuelbox.com/en/kits-e85-ethanol-motorcycles/e85-kit-for-bike-2-cylinder https://www.greenspirits.at/intern/ebay/html/für webseite/greenspirits-E85-conversion-tuning_english.html Has anyone had experience running Guzzis or comparable bikes on E85/E100 ? Does anyone know how much it improves emissions of NOx, CO, soot, etc ? Would using E85 with a flexfuel kit potentially keep older bikes road legal as emissions standards tighten ? Nick

How are the conditions of the roads out your way at the moment? Around here they are totally appalling. So bad I'm reluctant to take the Supra out driving and I'm dodging everywhere avoiding potholes that will swallow a basketball in the other cars with higher profile tyres. Plenty of money being spent on useless endeavours like mowing grass 2 inches high on the sides of the roads but zero interest it seems on fixing the suspension killing roads after the wettest coldest winter here in years. Phil

Update. Well I've adjusted the preload another 5mm and gotta say......Woo bloody Hoo! Should've done this years ago when I put on the extra kilo's. Only had one ride so far but I'm bloody chuffed with it,doubt any more weight on the front but front and back seem much more together or cohesive if that makes any sense? She was good before but even better now. My usual test road has a bit of everything (and is a great test for suspension) was quite a revelation! Bloody hell the sections where $1.20 was pushing it a bit previously (road conditions mostly) left me thinking maybe try that a bit harder next time ha ha. Then again watching the mail for a couple o weeks gets old eh! Just another piece in the jigsaw puzzle of V11 ownership slotting into place! Cheers Ps I'll live with it like this for a while and determine whether or not to go the 5mm extension on the shock later on eh. Pps still buzzing and still amazed that having owned this bike for nigh on 15 years she still delivers on all fronts for me and can't wait for the next ride! No other bike has....

I ride 20 miles out of my way to find ethanol free fuel

I've cleaned up the walls of the venturi on one side with some solvol just as an exploratory exercise, but can't do much without getting it off the bike. I've read the various threads on TB refurbs, so in no doubts about the challenges. The actual butterfly seems ok where it touches the walls, but I'm guessing the lower spindle will have suffered badly, as will the bush and seal area? If I can split the TBs at least I only need to buy one, which is also available on German eBay. Anyone know if you can drop the engine a few inches to get the TBs out without all the attendant crabbing parlaver? Here's the photo still seized.

BTW , any time you are checking for B+ or ground use a conventional test light to test for the "quality" of the circuit. the test light will load the circuit to make sure it is good. You do have ground wire thtat attaches to the regulator case ?

i'm in Florida at the moment @p6x, i fully understand what you're saying, completely. getting out of the shower in an air conditioned house, you start sweating before you're dry and feel like you need another shower before you've even left the bathroom. i need to get back to southern California as soon as possible...

Everyone's input and advice is important on this subject . Make sure of every step you take and tests you perform . My black frame is not together (yet) and I did post some voltage readings some time ago but I think it should be around 14.5v. or greater at high idle .

FWIW and BTW, since this ongoing charging failure "troubleshooting sequence" does not actually appear to be a "30 amp fuse failure ", the whole sh'bang looks to deserve its own topic . . .

…it does.

It's settled then... we ride old bikes. The first V11 barnfind is documented.

Pretty sure there is no "Charge" or "battery" indicator light on the later V11 SpineFrames. If your V11 has a single turn indicator, there will be a "battery" light in the cluster. Later V11 have left/right turn indicators and the battery/charge light is absent , IIRC. The red/black wire from the regulator connecting into the "brake light" etc is the voltage reference from Relay #2, yes? Watching for @LaGrasta to post that series of voltage readings . . .

Great chassis balance for a street car. Enjoyed 90km with a good buddys Aston. Ok 1 thing, opening the hood, try finding the lever well hidden on the passenger side? Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-S906B via Tapatalk

Indeed, can’t blame the cat being pissed off over such a charade. Our Hamish would have your hand shredded if anyone tried to bundle him into such a daft outfit. Here he is doing what cats do, he’s very focused on being a cat

Hi Folks: Informed and inspired by this forum - and because I powdercoated the swingarm on my 2001 Greenie bright red - I removed my black plastic rear hugger and spent some time making a version of road-spray deflectors. Thought I'd post photos here for others to see. I made a version of the flat "lower triangle" very similar to what others have done, with a couple tweaks for fit and to protect the lower shock eye. And I made an "upper extension" that mounts to the existing under-seat plastic and extends a fork-shaped flap around the shock. That upper extension required a bit of heat gun forming because I worked its profile in steps around the battery basket. Attachment of the lower triangle is with zip ties and the upper extension is with plastic "Christmas Tree" style clips through the seat pan. The end result lets the swingarm and rear wheel/drive be fully visible. I sourced material for all the above from Home Depot in the form of one rectangular black plastic Rubbermaid trash can. It was what seemed to me the right thickness, cut pretty easily with an Xacto knife, will be durable for the application, and the price was certainly right. My process was to start with thin cardboard and scissors, then use what I came up with as the template for cutting out the plastic. Installed, these are basically invisible. And they do a much better job than the original hugger of keeping road spray and debris out of the shock and rear of the engine. Hope this helps!