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It's been more then a few posts since you started your hunt for the problem you have so this might have been dealt with. Have you removed the stator and looked at it. I just purchased Andy's(a.k.a. oldbutnotdead) and it was a rusted mess. Water seeps in from the top wiring port and the iron core on the bottom was pretty nasty.

The only time I had an OMRON failure it was caused by a bad regulator combined with one of the yellow wires breaking loose at the stator . . .

Omron with a problem again,, oh well. Lost rev counter, instrument lights and probably head light, didn't see that first time. Problem comes and goes. Ok, had a big print made of Luigi electrical for the Sport. Problem solved, headlight relay. Had a 4 hour ride today to a Guzzi meeting in very nice riding weather, bit chilly in the morning 9c, but later 20c. NO RAIN. She love the curbs, hate traffic. Can't blaim her. Was it 67 Guzzi's up there, sorry no V11. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-S906B via Tapatalk

I am not going to tell you who won the sprint race in Aragon, because nobody saw it coming (sarcasm)... There are some lessons learned, however, at least to me. The Aprilia had a card to play in this race, but as it seems to be the norm, those who were expected were not the incumbent ones. I always had doubts about Maverick Viñales mental strength; he knows how to ride a MotoGP, but he seems to always miss the mark when everybody feels that he should have not. If anybody was beginning to doubt, Pedro Acosta has shown that he can be trusted, or was it because of Aragon? It is also good to see that both Gresini riders did well. I expect the race to be a bis repetita placent of the Sprint. No suspense!

Well after a week of wild wind (up to 100kph blasts) and rain it looked like a window of opportunity opened for a ride into the office yesterday. So, much to my wife's concern come hell or high water I'm riding in... Of course, the brief lull in the weather was but a ruse to fool me into thinking it'd be a lovely early spring morning ride. Up at 4.30am togged up and riding out the driveway at 5.00am. Holy shit it's windy but also a balmy 17 degrees. Now normal folk would realise that with this much wind and such a balmy temp that trouble is brewing and indeed it was! But with only a few rides in the last 3 months I was oblivious to reason! It was bloody windy as hell on the higher ground and the drizzle was starting (so much for the rain radars dry corridor) and after gas at the servo I was on my way again.Oh well wind and a bit of drizzle a small price to pay. Then once I'd dropped down off the higher ground Hell decided to unleash the high water and it began urinating with enough force to have some considering a second Ark! Jesus (no he was no help) this was getting crazy, dark, blowing a gale, very very wet and 4 lanes of heavy traffic! But actually I was grinning like a loon and loving it! The bike despite all that was going on was stable and planted and the Angel GT 11 tyres were fantastic and handled it all brilliantly. So, by the time I got to the office at 6am I was soaked ( upper body as did put wet leggings on... just in case ha ha ) and within minutes the place looked like a laundromat. Once I had the computer up and running, I saw news that we'd had a peak wind gust of 154 kph down on the coast! Jesus ( maybe he did look out for me after all ) what a morning. Anyways it all abated about 10 am was even sunny by the time I fired the bike up at 2.30pm for the ride home. Glad to report that although a bit windy but nothing like this morning I ENJOYED a little Italian tune up/ cobweb removing jaunt on the funway home... Of course, a Shiraz by the fire was in order and somewhat well-deserved I thought....

Yes, it's been since...started by State in 1967? That the US has required 'headlamp on' for motorcycles. But I don't know if or when Europe stopped using the 'city light'. My '97 Sport still has it, though the switchgear doesn't allow city lamp only. My thinking was that the system(s) are engineered for 80% daytime (city lamp) and 20% nighttime (headlamp) operation. Can't never know for sure, I suppose.

Both my V11 Le Mans and my Breva 750 have the headlight permanently on, but on low-beam. As far as I know, some later bikes may have had "running-lights", but I don't think it was that common in the low 20's. Otherwise, your logic is good. If the load is pulling current, the current will go up at lower voltages. And I think it can be considered "established knowledge" that italian electrics are occasionally a bit marginal.

Alex' fault but racing incident. Supposedly Alex couldn't see Pecco until it was too late.

@PJPR01 As predicted, with a tad more drama this time. Once again, the resurfacing of the track, coupled with a "dirty" side has conditioned the race for some. If you add the rain during the night, then tires were once more the center of a controversy. Martin has regained 23 points over Bagnaia which at least keeps the Championship open. I am interested to find out what will happen for the two races that will take place back to back at Misano, the first of the two happening next week.

Can't tell from the dimensions but the mounting holes angles look right. Voltage, power and number of teeth are the correct spec.

Before you call in the dogs , you should use a analog ohm meter and check EVERY wire for continuity and every connection. When you rule out everything you can rule out everything. also , a new part is not always a good part. Also , make sure EVERY ring terminal is accounted for on the positive and negative side of the battery.

The Sport still has the Duc regulator, so that was actually in the brain thing, figuring out why. Have an extra 847, winther soon. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-S906B via Tapatalk

I found a full review of the Helmet from the NL web based seller; I would only say that I will never purchase another helmet which does not integrate the sun visor inside.

Gotta love the sight of two greenies together! It's a very very rare sight down here. Cheers

Sounds a bit like mine...( 01 Sport ). Open air box lid, K& N filter Stucchi crossover and open Mistral carbon cans plus remap. I have a dyno printout with 80 rwhp and 60 ft/pounds before adding the crossover and removing the airbox lid and the new map! I'd guess mid 80's and maybe 63 ish ft/pd's.I don't know why I never got a copy of the dyno run after these mods. Cheers Ps yeah much more responsive......

Abbreviation for binary

Interesting to revisit this after so many years. I’ve learnt so much about the 8V since those long gone days and the fact is that opportunities for extracting more power out of it are few and far between. A stock 8V makes, on the Dyno I used for years, which was run by a bloke who liked it calibrated pessimistically in the interest of being honest, made 96RWHP. Screwing around with air filters etc. achieved nothing apart from rapid throttlebody wear and the stock airbox and filter work fine although removing the snorkel from Grisos and Stelvios will give a small lift in bottom end torque. With decent mapping and the right pipe, with a dB killer installed you will be able to keep the delightful flat torque curve and lift the RWHP to about 100 +/- three or so depending on state of engine, atmospheric conditions or whatever. You can increase the maximum hp if you use the right pipe and remove the dB killer and map for it. Not by a lot and the most you are likely to be able to get is 108-110 but in doing so you will sacrifice bottom end and midrange. Those limitations are imposed by the head design and there really isn’t a lot that can be done about that. Yes, there are people claiming much higher numbers than those. The laws of physics though don’t change. The fact is any 8V Guzzi is a big, heavy and ultimately not very powerful, (By contemporary standards.) motorbike. As I’ve said before. Love them for what they are. Not what they’re not. If you want *More*? Buy a Tuono!

Seems like Marc Marquez has decided that he will resume with victory at Aragon this weekend.

Hi Friends: I thought I'd share a bit about my experience on this topic. I purchased and revived a 2001 "Greenie" which had the original Sachs unit. After looking around, reading here, and reflecting on past experiences I purchased and installed a Penske on my bike. It's their 8983 style with remote reservoir part number PS-8983-MOTOGUZZI-V11. For my 170LBs they recommended a 500LB spring. Please see attached photos of how I mounted it, which came out nice and clean. The unit bolted in easily, and the bike stance remains same as previous (I dropped the front end so 10mm fork shows above triple clamp to put a bit more weight on the front end). I'd describe the ride as plush-but-controlled, very much in line with my previous Penske experience on a VFR. It's almost a little (intentionally) soft right at the beginning of the stroke - which feels comfortable on uneven urban streets and secondary back roads. There's absolutely no harshness, but is supportive. Penske delivered the shock in about 2 weeks. I just called them directly, explained make-model, and it couldn't have been easier. I paid full price. For what it's worth, past experience with Penske on race and street bikes indicates they also have the benefit of being easily and endlessly rebuildable. Nothing complicated, just good quality, Made in USA, easy parts availability, and any shop that rebuilds shocks can handle fresh oil/seals on a Penske. Not cheap, of course, but a buy-it-once buy-it-right sort of solution. Also, looks quite proper on the bike IMO, with relatively subtle color shock/spring details that do not try and compete/clash with the rest of the bike. I hope this helps someone who's considering improving their suspension, and maybe shortens your path regarding mounting etc.

It should be no more than 14v . I will have to go and start mine up ...at rest battery v was 12.4v , after start-up it was like 12.8v. Blip your throttle a few times like 3k or above , At 3k I got 14.5v . AGM batteries are different. Keep this in mind! You always want to blip your throttle or hold it steady above 2500 for a few seconds for the regulator to start working . TRUST ME . I worked on a BMW car for 3 days after I replaced the alternator and it still would NOT charge . For some stupid reason I blipped the throttle and it started charging.

Roadstercycle.com Shindengen SH847. Works wonder for your electricial system. Cheers Tom.

Nuovo bypass

I guess peaks wouldn't do much harm. Besides that 30A x 14V make for over 400W, well beyond what the alternator can deliver, not to mention the losses in the regulator and wiring etc. In my opinion it's only a matter of cheap non-automotive fuse holder contacts.

I've been thinking about this, and I agree with Kiwi_Roy, when he said in post 13 of this topic "As you can see the fuses aren't blowing, it's just a high resistance that causes heating". The ONLY possible way that a fuse can melt without fusing is if there is contact resistance between the fuse and fuse holder. All the other things that I and others mentioned can worsen the problem, but a bad connection is the cause of heating. You need another fuse holder. When you have fitted the new fuse holder, fit the fuse with great gobs of vaseline or similar. The grease will squeeze out to allow metal to metal contact, but should keep the connection tarnish free for years.

Doc, I don't see how external charging can effect the 30 Amp fuse, for one thing you are charging at quite a low rate say

Weather between Lavonia, GA and Tellico is complete shyte Thursday and Friday. Last straw, I'm out. I haven't cancelled the room at the Lodge yet, if anyone wants it speak up.