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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/03/2024 in all areas

  1. Luscious beasts! Makes me want to mount up, grab a handful, and experience the intensity . . .
    4 points
  2. Days away to SSR XX . . . mySport is wiped down and battery "conditioned." All the boxes are ticked, plus a few that had to be decisively left alone. "Set down the tools, docc, and step away from the Sport !!", (Waddington said). Parc fermé . . .
    3 points
  3. Mine was running when I put it away...
    2 points
  4. I just cover my naked self in baby oil and glitter, tie a brilo pad to my knob and writhe all over the motorbike. It may not clean it up a lot but it guarantees that the space surrounding it is empty and devoid of admirers so as long as the bike works who cares?
    2 points
  5. Hi Mike...I presume you're inquiring for your Norge. It's a lot easier to buy a Beetle map for the Norge and save your original map to your computer using the Reader, then upload your new Beetle map using the Writer. After that follow all the steps in Guzzidiag to make sure all the steps are done...including resetting TPS electronically, Autolearning parameters are done...and you're ready to go. If you have an aftermarket exhaust pipe, look for the map that is mentioned on Beetle's page with that exhaust brand/model, and if you don't see it, send him a message, and he'll make one for you.
    2 points
  6. While I long ago groomed this known cable impingement to make a straight shot at the bell crank out of the cable housing, I found a new impingement point today at the entrance to the bell crank, itself. There is a hidden edge in there cutting into the cable. Just relieved mine with some jewelers files and cleaned up the damaged cable, but will have to get a new cable on order . . .
    2 points
  7. Keep in mind that video appears to show testing of a 3 phase generator. The V11 has a single phase generator. The advice is good, but you're only testing output from 2 yellow wires.
    2 points
  8. It carries on. Colt, the MS's latest keeper, was on it at Guzzi lunch one day instead of his Grease O. He started the old girl up with the glorious sound from the Staintunes, and I said, "She's a bad MF er." He just smiled, and said, "I like it."
    2 points
  9. In my experience a stock V11 will make about 75/6 RWHP if tuned correctly. The hairiest one I ever rode was the Mighty Scura I sold to Chuck. That probably didn’t make a lot more top end but bugger me drunk it was a torque monster! Bottom end and midrange was just phenomenal. Far better than any 2V Guzzi had any right to be.
    2 points
  10. I am not a conspiracy theory guy. But I have no doubt some people think Alex took out Pecco to help Mark beat Pecco in the points this year (or insert your conspiracy theory here). I don't think Alex or Marc cares if Martin wins the title, but I do think Marc would love to beat Pecco in the points this year. He would rather win the title, but beating Pecco in the points would be almost as good. That said, I think none of that factored into the crash. I think it was simply a matter of Alex being determined to hold on to that third place podium so he could share that podium with his brother. He wanted that so bad he was willing to do anything he could, even if it meant Pecco didn't finish. Unfortunately for him he also didn't finish. No doubt that wasn't part of the plan. But Alex appeared to make no effort to avoid the contact. He was likely focused on not falling down during the contact, but it did not work.
    1 point
  11. Thank you to all in forum that have shared their expertise and guidance in this most excellent forum. With regret, downsizing and need to let her go....$3200 USD for Forum members. Current mileage 26,400 mi, hour north of Denver. Includes lift stand (handmade like the MG tool), old tank bag, Roper plate installed, gaskets, Caspar plug. Condition fair to good, current mileage 26,400, clutch replaced in 2021 at 18,300 mi (thanks MG Cycle for parts expertise). Please message with any questions!
    1 point
  12. 1 point
  13. Hi Paul, You are correct, it's about "VroomHilda". Runs very smoothly, starts easy, idles well - and terrible gas mileage in the low to mid 30's - if a bit rich, I believe. I ONLY feed her Ethanol free Premium as a steady diet. Beetle map is probably the easiest best route. I got the bike with an Austrailian "Staintune" pipe installed and all else is stock. I have everything dialed in via GuzziDIag and will be checking valves this weekend and rechecking TPS, Throttle body sync, etc...
    1 point
  14. Different dyno, different circumstances, (We’re about 800m above sea level.). Most Dyno operators like to stick a finger on the scales because people want bragging rights. I’m not saying that is the case with your experience but I’ve ridden a lot of ‘Hot’ Guzzis and I’m afraid that most of them tell a similar story, despite dyno charts, receipts for work or anything else. I’m not doubting you or your enjoyment of your bike I’m just saying I won’t believe it until I plant my corpulent arse on the seat and pull the go handle. You may note I never make any unusual claims for 8V’s I’ve been involved in making as good as they can be? That’s because they are what they are. The V11 motor is very hard to pull a lot more reliable performance out of. That’s what makes ‘The Mighty Scura’ such an extraordinary bike. But as I said, its peak power is probably not much more than a stocker. But its rideability is extraordinary! I had nothing to do with its build, I just owned it and had a very memorable trip across the USA on it. If your bike is like it you’re a very lucky man.
    1 point
  15. Ha ha Mate my hours are actually 6.30am to 2.30pm but due to living in Drouin I'm usually up at 5am and out the door at 5.15ish to avoid the worst of the traffic.It's only when I take the bike that I get up a bit earlier 4.30-4.45 ish as it takes longer to get togged up/ warm up the bike etc and then I have to stop for gas and get helmet and gloves back on blah blah .... I also intersperse this with working from home which means a commute of metres not kilometres so it all works pretty well and I'm well used to the early starts now! The ride home usually makes up for it too...ha ha . Cheers
    1 point
  16. G'day, I just dragged the old Dyno reading out... It was actually 77 rwhp and 61 ft pounds when I got the bike. This was all standard except K and N filter and open Mistrals. Then I added a PC111 and a custom map which brought it to 79.60 rwhp and same 61 ft pounds of torque. Later on I added a Stucchi crossover and removed the airbox lid and the PC111 was dumped. Brad reflashed the ECU after retuning on the dyno. Buggered if I know why I didn't get a copy of the dyno run but reckon it's about 83-85 hp at the wheel and a wee bit more torque 63 ish perhaps ? Cheers
    1 point
  17. I can't remember the company , I will have to look back and find it but I bought an inner cable and bought it 6'' too long . I bought a cable stop and put everything in place . I purchased some spring washers( I am calling for now) . These look like the washers that held brake drums on to cars. I pushed the washer onto the end of the outer cable to hold it SECURELY in the cable bracket and then put the cable stop in place and tightened. I will try to find part #s tonight and post .
    1 point
  18. This alternator in the video (i s a conventional alternator) is a 3phase output and the v11 is a pancake or single phase system. you have two wires coming from the stator. Do yourself a favor and repair this 30a fuse connection . Remove enough factory wiring to get to a good unburnt section of wiring harness and install a quality CB and quality wiring and connectors. This advice now goes to EVERYONE on this forum . Stop buying this Amazon / eBay Chinese junk . I don't care if you can buy this stuff for any amount of money. If you flew aircraft would you purchase a reman component for $35 v $600 because you saved money ? I am not 30 yrs old any more and I am not pushing a bike to the next exit.
    1 point
  19. I'm definitely no sparky,but I'll throw a few thoughts out there,fwiw. Iirc,this is a relatively mint, low mileage, new to you, V11 Lemans;stator output tests fine,but the battery & bike aren't charging,,,2 new R/R's haven't fixed it,,,, I don't think a new stator will either,,,because I think the problem is further upstream from the R/R. Iirc,these permanent magnet alternators put out max power for whatever rpm it's turning & the surplus unused electrickery gets shunted off to ground,generating heat in the process; the main battery ground on the spine frames can't just look good, mine needed to be removed & sanded down shiney. A few yrs ago I lost the charging on my CX100,when the reference wire for the R/R disconnected. It was a simple find & fix for me to trace the reference wire & reconnect it to the spare terminal at the coil, fed with good clean relay power. Docc & gstallons described the R/R reference wire as being Red/Black & the circuit it connects to, having brake lights, instrument lights etc,,, your R/R needs to see good clean voltage in the proper range from that connection in order to work. I'm a bit of a luddite when it comes to led lights on bikes. I've bought bikes with led lights that were a pita,conflicts & not getting along with other components; Iirc, you've installed led lights on the circuit that your R/R is taking it's reference readings from,,,,, with their low operating range & possible conflicts with other components; could your leds be doing funky things with the good clean voltage within a certain range,that your R/R reference wire is looking for. Idk? From your riding description, short fast rides, with possible battery tenders involved,,, you might have had charging issues for a while without realizing it. patience, it'll come
    1 point
  20. Never mind. Sold out. Edit: I'll call them tomorrow and see if they can source more.
    1 point
  21. https://italianiron.com/ducati-paso-nos-protection-cap-037141445/
    1 point
  22. This particular boot is identical to Ducati part no. 037141445. Seems it is difficult, but not impossible, to find that part (found on Italian Iron website).
    1 point
  23. Ah! My solution was to squeeze the split bracket around the cable end Ferrell to capture it and prevent movement when the throttle is applied.
    1 point
  24. The original ignition advance mapping is far from "smooth" at those rpm with low throttle openings. Anatomy of a "hiccup" . . .
    1 point
  25. Not sure. My bike with the old engine did it with a new timing sensor, old sensor, new and older plugs and even with the timing chain replaced by gears which dispelled the theory it was timing chain slack/tensioner. Phil
    1 point
  26. I've mentioned before the ignition timing step on the std map at the low throttle angles of 4.2 and 5.1 degrees at the problematical rpm. Standard map is and 18degree ignition advance between 2200 and 2700 rpm at 4.2 degrees. Meinolfs map has cut this to around 7 degrees in the same general area although he's changed the rpm break points a little so a perfect comparison isn't available. He's also pulled some timing out at the same rpm range at 5.2 throttle angle as well so if this has reduced the issue then if it was me I'd pull a bit more out at the same ranges and see if that cures it. You can't get tuning right 100% on lambda readings alone, feel and lots of miles in varying riding conditions comes into it as well. My old engine would cough at times and then you couldn't make it if you tried. Maybe the issue is just a mechanical design issue at the end of the day if it can't be tuned out. The v11 engine may just have a small area of combustion instability under certain conditions due to the combustion chamber and piston crown design. Not sure, but if the Meinolf map has improved the issue noticeably I'd try pulling some more advance out of it at those rpm and throttle break points and see if it goes away. If not then put it back in again. Nothing to lose. Phil
    1 point
  27. Split 77 posts from the last 6 months into this dedicated topic from the "30 amp fuse failure " thread . . .
    1 point
  28. The feeling is actually a bit significant to stock. They say these bikes did 80ish out the factory. BHP, maybe. I'm getting that at the wheel. Maybe 10-12hp over stock. But also how that extra 10-12hp is delivered. They just pull much harder and smoother than stock. Anyone who tells you you'll get 20-25hp with an exhaust and a tune is lying or just embelishing. An Aprilia RSV-4? Yes, you'll get 20hp with an ecu tune and exhaust system. These aren't Aprilia RSV-4s. 80rwhp bone stock seems a little high. Maybe I should have mine done again because my setup pulls WAY harder than a stock V11..
    1 point
  29. For the last 8 years my two HS buds from NY and I have made plans to hike at least two National Parks somewhere around the country during your SR weekends...usually 7-10 days. This year it is Rainier and Olympic. Next year our dates have changed. The SR is on my bucket list, and with no conflicts next year. I have a year to figure it out.
    1 point
  30. A few items done today…and then a wonderful 100 mile ride. New oil sensor, new plugs (left one nice tan brown, right one a little dark but not sooty), new vent tubes off the tank just for fun, was going to replace the rubber tank stops but the ones there are in great shape. Been thinking about the slight 3k cough or hiccup …wonder if it could be mapped away with a better mixture on the map at that RPM…still running the older version of the Meinolf map…may try the new one. Besides that the bike runs great at all other RPM’s. A quick check with the Carbtune…TB nicely balanced at idle and 4k…time for a ride. Out riding…a song comes on…Riders on the Storm…found a Scura at the end of the rainbow! Time to buy a lottery ticket tonight!!
    1 point
  31. To be fair, Marc Marquez is always strong on tracks that run anti-clockwise. Aragon is one of those, and he has won here every time he was fit. What I found of interest is that none of the other Ducati had anything to show him. I accept that Bagnaia was starting on the dirty side of the track, that certainly affected him. I mean, all GP23 and GP24 together were suddenly not at the same level. I don't expect Marc Marquez to be dominating like he did this weekend at the other GPs, but he has clearly shown everyone that he is still a force to be reckoned with. Bagnaia would have made it to third. What is mesmerizing is the missed opportunity from Aprilia. I am lost for words with Maverick Viñales.
    1 point
  32. Sounds a bit like mine...( 01 Sport ). Open air box lid, K& N filter Stucchi crossover and open Mistral carbon cans plus remap. I have a dyno printout with 80 rwhp and 60 ft/pounds before adding the crossover and removing the airbox lid and the new map! I'd guess mid 80's and maybe 63 ish ft/pd's.I don't know why I never got a copy of the dyno run after these mods. Cheers Ps yeah much more responsive......
    1 point
  33. Agreed that it sounds like a typical v11 with that mid range. I have 2 v11’s with crossovers, and I’d say adding that it was an improvement for both, though not dramatic. Both are tuned the same, both have crossovers, but one is like a big 2-stroke in that it explodes above 5000rpm, while other has a smoother, more consistent pull through the rpm range, though still with the noticeable (grin inducing) change at 5000rpm. mapping would would probably be the hot ticket for mid range, however you chose to go about it.
    1 point
  34. I had it dynoed after I had my LeMans done in 2016 or 2017, but don't know where it is. It was on a PDF. If I can find it, I'll post it. With a Mistral crossover, silencers and an open airbox with a K&N, It was between 8-11hp at the wheel over stock. Teetered in the mid 80's rwhp I But I guess that about as much as you can get without cracking open the engine. But it feels more due to the throttle responsiveness.
    1 point
  35. Pretty sure there is no "Charge" or "battery" indicator light on the later V11 SpineFrames. If your V11 has a single turn indicator, there will be a "battery" light in the cluster. Later V11 have left/right turn indicators and the battery/charge light is absent , IIRC. The red/black wire from the regulator connecting into the "brake light" etc is the voltage reference from Relay #2, yes? Watching for @LaGrasta to post that series of voltage readings . . .
    1 point
  36. Please do not get distracted by the indicator light story . This was JUST an example of how screwy things can be. That was a 60s BMW and this is a V11 MG. I assume you have the wiring diagram for YOUR bike ? This is important. One wiring diagram I have and I think this is my 2002/3 V11 shows two yellow wires (GI) from the stator windings to the reg. The red/green wire next to it (R-VE) goes from the regulator to f3 . The next light blue wire (AZ) goes from the reg. to the charge indicator lamp. Then the final wire red/black coming from the reg (R-N) goes to the brake lights , headlamp switch then to the instrument cluster benz lamp ( whatever that is) . Finally there is a ground wire attached to the fastener holding the reg to the frame. It ties in w/the battery ground cable. check every one of these to verify operation . Make sure the red/green wire that goes from the + post of the battery to f3 to the reg has B+ v . The other one , if you have lights that circuit is good. If you have a charge light it is good. Good luck.
    1 point
  37. You do not want to be disconnecting a battery on these computer controlled IC vehicles w/the engine running. Bad things can happen with the engine control systems .
    1 point
  38. Before the advent of F.I. , computer controls & outer space technology : you could disconnect one battery post and if the vehicle continued running the charging system was working. Please do not do this with anything now . Bad stuff can happen . You do need a voltmeter connected to the battery to test KOEO battery voltage , KOER battery voltage at idle , 1500 rpm and 2500 rpm. IDK what the #s should be but test and give us these #s . Someone can give a good opinion. Can you give us a work history and a parts install history so we can look this stuff over and give an opinion ? The maxim "you put enuf parts on it and it will work" doesn't always work . There is something overlooked or bad parts or all the above !
    1 point
  39. Sorry, never saw the replies to this. End of the story is that a bloke from Victoria turned up, with a case of ‘Crankshaft’ and took it all away. He wasn’t the first to ask though. There was a very typical ‘Guzzi Guy’ from NSW who called first. Wanted me to send him an itemised list of what I had, preferably with part numbers! How about ‘No’! I said if he wanted he could look at it and decide. Then the whining started about how I lived so far away, (I was about 170km from him.) and then the ‘Icing on the cake’? ‘Crankshaft was ‘Too Expensive’ and would I take a case of Tooheys, (A shitty mass produced commercial swill I only drink under duress!). At that point I cordially invited him to get a colossal, wooly, black pup up himself and told him I’d be taking it to the tip the next day and if he didn’t like it he could go swivel on something sharp! He told me I was rude and unreasonable and he’d make sure *Everybody* heard about it! “Behold the field in which I grow my f*cks! Cast thine eyes upon it and see that it is barren!”
    1 point
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