Leaderboard

Guzzi sound

The original spacers are notorious for being too short and killing bearings before their time. Will do, first day and first gelato done. Phil

Anyone crossing The Appalachian Divide should know that "feels like 90º" on The Plains (of Tellico) can "feel like" the upper 40ºs on The Cherohala after a little dampness/shower/fog/cloud ceiling with wind chill at speed. FWIW, I am using the U.S. National Weather Service (NWS) and other storm focused weather apps. Places like The Weather Channel™ are, IMO, entertainment focused and will show you a snowflake every chance they get. Snowflakes sell. Meteorology a dull box of cloudy uncertainty. Yet . . . The Cherohala cloud ceiling is real . . .

All good. But I am always mindful that God doesn’t watch Weather Channel. Bill

Latest rain forecasts for the region have dropped to "slight chance." Along with very pleasant dew points/humidity. Big, V-twin air-cooled motor weather!

That wire is only the solenoid wire it doesn't carry starter current so the size is fine. Phil

That shouldn't happen if the wheel spacer is the correct length. You should be able to crank up the axle nut even over tight and it shouldn't affect the wheel bearing lateral clearance. You should check the spacer length as it's too short. The bearing clearance is independent of the axle nut torque. That is the precise purpose of the bearing spacer. Greetings from Roma

That connection looked fine on my '04. Nevertheless, I cleaned both, applied Caig DeoxIt and gave the female terminal a bit of a squeeze. I don;t think it matters, but the stud which secures the sidestand switch and return spring was loose. With my trusty M11 spanner, it is now snug.

Bravissimo!!! Congratulations! I've enjoyed following your sleuthing that's got you back on the road! and have been reading other threads also. My '02 is finally enroute via Haulbikes.com, in OK City, due to arrive this coming Monday!

Well, you have given me something to check, as I had a no-crank session with my '04 Ballabio. I can tell you that it is no fun bump-starting a V11.

Startus interruptus, yes a better wire and an extra good relay is the cure. I used a 70amp relay, yes overkill, but. It's all here on the forum. Cheers Tom.

My entire adult riding life subscribed to Cycleworld, Rider, Etc... came across this and thought I should share the memories......... Available in many formats, whether articles, ads, reviews, etc. Enjoy! https://magazine.cycleworld.com/search?exactphrase=true&QueryTerm=Moto+Guzzi&start=40&rows=20&DocType=Image&Sort=null&SortOrder=null&startdate=1962-02-01&enddate=2022-10-01&LastViewIssueKey=&LastViewPage=

Mine was running when I put it away...

I never thought this day would come, but after months of self denial and kicking the ball down the road, the time has finally come to post up my V11 Le Mans, Rossa Corsa Full disclosure, she is a project. I've had a constant issue with the left cylinder "hiccuping" and dying and not holding an idle unless the idle adjustment is turned way up. I've tried pretty much everything this wonderful forum has suggested (TPS sensor voltage, balancing the throttle bodies, adjusting the valves, checking the boot connection from the intake to the throttle bodies, adjusting the idle screws, etc) and at this point life has gotten too busy with the current number of bikes that I have. At the end of the day, I'm too busy personally to properly address it and I want it to go to someone who can give it the love she deserves The V11 isn't perfect as you can see from the pictures. She has a salvage title from when someone turned left into me. She's a different color as a result crash from an excellent painter and fiberglass worker. She has probably 50k miles on it (odometer stopped working, very well documented issue on this forum), but the motor has maybe 5k miles since a new crankshaft was installed. There are a lot of excellent parts Ohlins suspension front and back (she is a Rossa Corsa despite the pain suggestion) Staintune Mufflers from a Daytona with Mistral Headers and crosspipe Megacycle 620x9 cam Ported heads (don't know who did it, but they've been worked on) Hepco-Becker luggage rack (20L cases also provided) That's what I remember on the top of my head. I want her to go to a good home where either she'll be brought back or contribute to something else. I'm asking for $2,000 for her

There's a bloke in the german forum that has the following in his signature: "If the Lord God had wanted motorcycles to be clean, there would be dishwashing liquid in the rain". Just sayin'...

Electrolysis. It seems that half the wire connections maintain metal-metal contact via constant engine and road vibration. At the micro level, this would cause the fretting of tiny amounts of oxidation. But the longer it sits and the closer to water/humidity, the process accelerates. But, all of the safety switches are a marvel to behold. They insist on providing complete safety, often when one desires to be dangerous.

That would be Beetle, almost certainly. Mentioned further up, if I recall correctly. This is his site: https://griso.org/ I believe his first name is Mark.

The Lodge is cloudless at the moment. 3:49pm Thursday.

Scura also equipped with Ohlins damper…must match the shocks front and rear. 😊 At least mine is…I hope all the other Scuras also.

You can acquire an old windows laptop for exactly nothing these days. Thats what I would do

I wish I could, but I do not own a Windows computer; I have all the interface cables, I have installed the Mac-OS software on my Mac Book Pro, but I cannot open the port to communicate with the Lonelec interface. I have thought about purchasing a Windows computer, but given that my V11 now works perfectly, the need is less pressing. The Quota seems to be equally fueling properly. I was merely suggesting to meet with @PJPR01 who has the equipment working, so he could copy the map and post it.

1. Cheers Tom.

If Guzzi made a modern V8 version of their V8 GP bike I would for sure buy one, as long as I financially could afford it. If for no reason other then how cool it would sound.

Mate, I'd doubt my Greenie would be in the same league as the mighty Scura with her High comp pistons and Mike Rich headwork plus Stucchi and breathing mods if I remember correctly.... but I'm not too fussed about the actual numbers these days, just happy she's running well and strong. I've been more focused on the suspension and handling to tell the truth! This is the first Guzzi I've owned so don't have much experience to compare but can say that after owning her for 14 or so years I still love it .... Jeezuz they get under your skin! Cheers

The poor connection is responsible for the burnt fuse. That has to be looked at as either the cause or the effect or both. A buddy of mine was working on a Allmand light plant with a no charge condition . One of the two large wires going from the alternator to the regulator had 4 ohms more resistance than the other. He ran new wires from the alt. to the reg. and cured the charging problem. I don't think the "congregation" understands how critical EVERYTHING is and how important every step is to fixing this condition. It will be simple once it is corrected.

Game On

I just cover my naked self in baby oil and glitter, tie a brilo pad to my knob and writhe all over the motorbike. It may not clean it up a lot but it guarantees that the space surrounding it is empty and devoid of admirers so as long as the bike works who cares?

Different dyno, different circumstances, (We’re about 800m above sea level.). Most Dyno operators like to stick a finger on the scales because people want bragging rights. I’m not saying that is the case with your experience but I’ve ridden a lot of ‘Hot’ Guzzis and I’m afraid that most of them tell a similar story, despite dyno charts, receipts for work or anything else. I’m not doubting you or your enjoyment of your bike I’m just saying I won’t believe it until I plant my corpulent arse on the seat and pull the go handle. You may note I never make any unusual claims for 8V’s I’ve been involved in making as good as they can be? That’s because they are what they are. The V11 motor is very hard to pull a lot more reliable performance out of. That’s what makes ‘The Mighty Scura’ such an extraordinary bike. But as I said, its peak power is probably not much more than a stocker. But its rideability is extraordinary! I had nothing to do with its build, I just owned it and had a very memorable trip across the USA on it. If your bike is like it you’re a very lucky man.

Hi Mike...I presume you're inquiring for your Norge. It's a lot easier to buy a Beetle map for the Norge and save your original map to your computer using the Reader, then upload your new Beetle map using the Writer. After that follow all the steps in Guzzidiag to make sure all the steps are done...including resetting TPS electronically, Autolearning parameters are done...and you're ready to go. If you have an aftermarket exhaust pipe, look for the map that is mentioned on Beetle's page with that exhaust brand/model, and if you don't see it, send him a message, and he'll make one for you.

Luscious beasts! Makes me want to mount up, grab a handful, and experience the intensity . . .

Days away to SSR XX . . . mySport is wiped down and battery "conditioned." All the boxes are ticked, plus a few that had to be decisively left alone. "Set down the tools, docc, and step away from the Sport !!", (Waddington said). Parc fermé . . .

The original ignition advance mapping is far from "smooth" at those rpm with low throttle openings. Anatomy of a "hiccup" . . .

I don't have an image docc and the new throttle bodies on the Daytona engine don't suffer the issue. I considered bending the bracket as well but in the end I used some .028 lockwire in one wrap around the cable end Ferrell and wired back to the inboard side of the bracket. It served to pull the cable ferrell flange hard against the bracket face and keep it aligned. It also helped a tiny bit with throttle cable play as previously the ferrell flange would kick away at an angle to the bracket at zero throttle and then get pulled into alignment as you opened the throttle. If you look at yours when you open the throttle the ferrell probably gets pulled straight when you load the cable and all the wear occurs when the throttle is closed at idle or on the overrun. Thats the way it was with mine anyway. Phil

I looked at that internal edge on a low mile bell crank and it looks nicely rounded. I wonder if my original had developed a sharper edge from cumulative use. . . . and being ridden like a jackrabbit on hot lava . . .

Correction - I meant "source a RIGHT hand side TB" in the post above! Here's one of the inlet valves on an engine that's only (allegedly) done 20-something thousand miles? Hmmm. Comments from more knowledgeable people welcome (i.e. pretty much everyone on this forum!) Also gawping at the inlet port which looked pretty crude (okay, some of my brit bikes have been ported by people who know what they're doing, not me) led me to read up on the "redesigned" ports this motor got compared to the previous Tonti motors. Hmm, not clever having a port that stops flowing well below max cam lift??

Not sure. My bike with the old engine did it with a new timing sensor, old sensor, new and older plugs and even with the timing chain replaced by gears which dispelled the theory it was timing chain slack/tensioner. Phil

A MAP torch doesn't usually have a fine enough tip for heating the bridge screws and you need to use great care as you can easily melt the alloy bridge very thing section around the retaining screw. The yamaha seals a re also very cheap and what I used. The p/n is in the thread I'm sure. Phil

Well I haven't had a lot of time in the last few weeks, what with school holidays and a BSA 250 with bodged electrics (my brother's) to sort. However I HAVE managed to remove the throttle bodies! Actually it was a (bit) easier than i was expecting. I was going to order a MAPP torch to heat the TBs to melt the red loctite, but managed to get the left hand one up to around 220C with my ordinary butane/propane mix blowtorch (as measured with an IR thermometer) and the very small bottom allen screws on the alloy tie bar came out good as gold, if a little nerve wracking as you slowly increase the torque! I used a dremel with cutting wheel to carefully dress off the peening on the butterfly screws, marked the orientation of the butterflys for reassembly and took both assemblies apart (with lots of photos) following Lucky Phil's excellent guide in the "How tos" section. The left hand one looks ok, and I THINK the right hand one (with all the corrosion in the venturi and initially seized butterfly) might clean up ok? However, this is what greeted me when I took the TPS off the spindle on top of the right hand TB - see pic. The circlip and washer that sits above the spindle seal have both pretty much disintegrated! As with much of what I've uncovered on this bike, much of it is in fine fettle (on the surface at least) but then you come across something horrible? I am going to dummy fit the spindle, which is badly corroded at the top back in the TB and see if the area the seal sits on is ok or toast. If ok, then I use a local bike shop to vapour blast stuff and ultrasonic it all afterwards, they've done cylinder heads (Guzzi T3) and crankcases (BSA Rocket 3) for me with no issues with lodged blast media. I've found a UK source for the seals, actually slightly cheaper as a Suzuki GS450 part (generic mikuni carb butterfly seals as per Phil's write up) over here - Suzuki part No. 13651-51011. If these work ok I'll add the details in that write up. The bushes also have some play but I've yet to remove those as I don't have a correct sized tap yet. My gut feel tells me however that I'm going to have to source a LHS TB, we'll see? The seals and bushes aren't expensive so nothing to lose. Hoping to make some progress this week but we'll see as loads of house jobs have been piling up! The other nasty I uncovered is, peering into the inlet ports (I've removed the inlet manifolds) the inlet valves look horrible, with loads of deposits on the back of the valve heads on both sides? I expected with a lean running "modern" engine they'd look white(??), no such luck, is this typical?? see next pic, hard to photograph, I've tried to illuminate a bit better with a torch. both inlets look the same so nothing to do with corrosion. I'll post a pic on the next post.

I've mentioned before the ignition timing step on the std map at the low throttle angles of 4.2 and 5.1 degrees at the problematical rpm. Standard map is and 18degree ignition advance between 2200 and 2700 rpm at 4.2 degrees. Meinolfs map has cut this to around 7 degrees in the same general area although he's changed the rpm break points a little so a perfect comparison isn't available. He's also pulled some timing out at the same rpm range at 5.2 throttle angle as well so if this has reduced the issue then if it was me I'd pull a bit more out at the same ranges and see if that cures it. You can't get tuning right 100% on lambda readings alone, feel and lots of miles in varying riding conditions comes into it as well. My old engine would cough at times and then you couldn't make it if you tried. Maybe the issue is just a mechanical design issue at the end of the day if it can't be tuned out. The v11 engine may just have a small area of combustion instability under certain conditions due to the combustion chamber and piston crown design. Not sure, but if the Meinolf map has improved the issue noticeably I'd try pulling some more advance out of it at those rpm and throttle break points and see if it goes away. If not then put it back in again. Nothing to lose. Phil

Split 77 posts from the last 6 months into this dedicated topic from the "30 amp fuse failure " thread . . .

I am looking the last six pages of this thread and am investigating a dedicated thread for @LaGrasta's circumstance. Very challenging splitting these threads. Bear with me . . . edit: 77 posts, over six months, split to create a dedicated thread and challenge us to figure out @LaGrasta's circumstance:

While I long ago groomed this known cable impingement to make a straight shot at the bell crank out of the cable housing, I found a new impingement point today at the entrance to the bell crank, itself. There is a hidden edge in there cutting into the cable. Just relieved mine with some jewelers files and cleaned up the damaged cable, but will have to get a new cable on order . . .

It’s very minor now and much better than before…it seems to now occur around 2750 rpm’s…but much less than before. Will keep riding it more and see how it behaves long term. Given that it’s such a momentary issue …it’s a minor issue overall…but you know we like to search for perfection!

Hi! Did the cough/hiccup present at 3K RPM get fixed? Regards!

Well I loaded the new Meinolf map this morning and set CO trim to 10 and it is remarkably better than the older Meinolf map and Co trim at zero. Maybe there’s something slightly worn out on my bike but it doesn’t seem to like CO trim at zero, the bike feels too lean and seems to starve at higher Rpm’s. Will run this combo for a while and see and evaluate for longer term results.

For the last 8 years my two HS buds from NY and I have made plans to hike at least two National Parks somewhere around the country during your SR weekends...usually 7-10 days. This year it is Rainier and Olympic. Next year our dates have changed. The SR is on my bucket list, and with no conflicts next year. I have a year to figure it out.

I am just going on record here that a SpineRaider that shows up in his truck (with tools ), but no SpineFrame , is still a SpineRaider . . .

Women can have high heels and men can have motorcycles .

I will be selling my 02 Tenni soon if you or someone else is still looking for one.