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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/19/2024 in all areas
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Thank you everyone After Gene talked me into using a test light I'm embarrassed to say 2 perfectly good looking fuses were the culprit6 points
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I can tell you now . They aren't AN / JIC fittings . AN and JIC are the same. I think this is a DIN 24 or DIN 60 . I THINK some of these have o-rings and some don't . You can remove this assy and see if it has an o-ring in the hose or not. Very important ! When you break this loose , hold the fitting tight that goes into the head . 14mm or 9/16 wrenches . When you break this loose , hold the hose with a pair of channel/lock pliers or needle nose vise grip pliers to keep the hose from unwinding with the nut. W/that being said , IDK if a hydraulics shop can match you up w/the correct o-ring or not. If so , get new crush washers , o-rings and go back together . If not , get the hose assy. mentioned earlier.3 points
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Hi friends, I rarely come here lately. A couple of years ago I bought myself a KTM 1290 and I was already thinking about selling my V11, since it was standing idle in the garage, but the KTM breaks down more often than I expected and while it is being repaired I ride my trusty Guzzi. Recently the motorcycle has become difficult to start when cold even with the throttle handle. I have to crank the starter for a long time. Also, my regulator relay bracket was torn off and it flew under my wheel while driving, tearing out the front wheel fairing. So for now I ride without it and secured the regulator relay with cable ties to the oil supply hoses. Otherwise, everything is fine with me, I am alive and well, glad to see familiar nicknames here and I hope you, my dear friends, are also okay.3 points
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One swallow does not a summer make as the old saying goes. I wouldn't make a statement like this without quite a few miles on the bike in various weather conditions. Been there. Phil3 points
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The threads on the fitting. It is just to prevent it to come undone from the vibrations, and not meant to be a seal. I used the "weak" one, so it can be removed if it needed to be. The bike is 20 years old now, I don't think these fittings were ever touched before. I have been riding the V11 extensively those past three years. When I got the bike in 2021, it had only 8,800 miles. It now has 35,000 miles.2 points
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The issue with the neutral light switch is the brass contacts become tarnished after many years and no longer have a low resistance. A new switch is the best answer as the originals aren't really able to be disassembled. I disassembled one and found the tarnished contacts and then attempted to reassemble it using JB weld but it didn't last long so I used a spare I had I recently bought a brand new switch for a reasonable price as previously they wants some totally stupid money for them. Can't remember where I bought it though. Ruling out the obvious connection issues the switch also needs to be fitted with the correct thickness crush washer to work correctly as this governs the plunger travel position on the selector gear. Phil2 points
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Musicians at that time migrated from one group to the next as a part of life . There was no future only today and maybe , tomorrow. Musicians got together and jammed until they were done and played with someone else !2 points
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https://magazine.cycleworld.com/search?QueryTerm=Moto+Guzzi&DocType=Article&Sort=null&SortOrder=null2 points
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I remember using such connections when I was working at the AMX. Some of the tanks had a lot of hydraulics on them, such as the AMX 30 Pluton, AMX 30D. I thought we used JIC fittings on them, but I can't remember very well. I do remember those hydraulic connections with o'rings on them, and they failled easily. Metal to Metal is best for high pressure hydraulics.2 points
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I was 10 years old when Clapton played with them. I still had a year or two to go before I made the switch from AM to FM. It was a great time to switch though. Early days of NY FM radio were groundbreaking, with some of the best radio jocks in the business.2 points
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Hi, @Klaus756! Thanks for asking us to throw in on your project! We do have another member here with something similar. It will take me some time, but I will look for his profile, posts, and pictures. As far the driveshaft, your description sounds like you only got the front of the 2-peice driveshaft. It is very common for "breakers" to leave the back "half" on the reardrive, shown on this center reardrive . . .1 point
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You "probably" did . AN (Army Navy) was developed during WWII for the military and stayed with them. JIC (Joint Industry Council) uses the same stuff for civilian use . IT is interchangeable. O-ring face seal or flat face o-ring is on a LOT of hydraulic fittings now because of assembly speed. I don't care for this too much. DIN is a European hose connection . IDK enough about DIN fittings to explain them.1 point
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Definitely speaking for myself : AFA the driveshaft integration , everything looks the same until you lay things down next to each other. Reverse trike . 2 wheels in front & ! in the rear ? Doing a trike / you need to discuss this with someone has done this before . I don't know anyone on this forum that has done this before , they will have to come forward and offer help or advice . There is a place nearby in Murray ,Ky...www.hannigantrikes.com and they started out w/BMW trike conversions and now will do (most) all conversions. You can see what they are up to.1 point
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That is BAD . You should be able to pick up those parts from eBay in Europe very reasonable in price . AFA the hard starting , keep non-ethanol fuel in your bike and ride it as much as possible .1 point
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As an add on to the first two posts. In the front engine design. the input and output shafts will not line up. If I went with a monoposto design the prop shaft wouldn't be a big problem because there is only the rider to consider. In a side by side design, the driveshaft is a problem. Unless you offset the drives. By this, my plan, is to attach a chain drive and bearing assembly to the output shaft of the Guzzi transmission. Drop the chain down to a propshaft and go back the rear drive where the same type chain would go up to the rear drive. If I can I am thinking of using an electric motor driven reverse, also driving the rear drive. This would put the propshaft under the floor and between the frame rails. I have my doubts about the chain and sprockets/bearing being able to withstand the Guzzi power output. Another thought has been to adapt the guzzi engine to a VW IRS transaxle mounted in a front drive subframe and go with front wheel drive. I am attempting this build using as many parts that I already have. Currently it has an MGB front suspension.1 point
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Not to be a smart a$$ but what's under the tank ? There is a wiring harness connector.1 point
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Hi docc, let me talk to the crew at Oberon and see what they can do for us. We sell a ton of cylinders for many brands and we are always talking about the models that would benefit from upgrades.1 point
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I made the decision to shut the key off and kill the writer program. Once I reconnected it took the literal 5 seconds to upload as @Lucky Phil said. More importantly the 3k rpm stumble/cough is now non-existent which is exactly what I was shooting for!1 point
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That seems like a lot of voltage drop. Still could be ignition switch and/or dodgy connectors in the harness. Just getting the battery voltage up, does the tail light give any glow or the turn signals try to wink?1 point
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saw Page & Plant play "How Many More Times" in 1998. It was a little more roots based IIRC. saw Zep play "Moby @#$$#!" in 1970. Bonzo must've done 20 minutes. Green trap set wearing a matching tanktop. @KINDOY2 I know that Zep is a love'em or hate'em band. So I won't proselytize1 point
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Just realized I needed to acknowledge @Skip's excellent tune on my throttle bodies. She purred like a big kitten on the way home. Thanks , man!1 point
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It seems the proper term is " giallo " . . . (pronounced: JAHL-oh )1 point
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I could only see one Quota at 29'30. People from all over Europe. You can easily recognize the UK and German tags. They are so large!1 point
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