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If you search for "Rubber Tank Straps" or "Fuel Tank Strap Rubber Backing" you will find lots of choices. EPDM, Buna N or Nitrile material will work fine.

Pretty sure that is an aftermarket "footpeg" arrangement. Not sure who marketed that particular one (?) Notably, the footpeg, itself, is missing in that view . . .

Do remove the shifter shaft bolt and make sure it is greased . Also install the shift extender to make it seem like the best Jap bike in existence. You want to get this running and then go "whole hog" on the refurbishing !

Is that "clear coat" on the tank ? Now , at my former place of employment , we were under the tutelage of a 24 yr old Anne Murray and this was her first job as a foreman . We were told what to use and how to do it. After The Beast of Belsen went back inside someone else said "this is what I've been doing" , so we did it the easy way.

Finally, removed rear wheel ready for tyre change and UJ greasing etc. There's a patch of corrosion under the swing-arm forward box section, but it's pretty localised and difficult to see, so will apply some satin paint after treating the rust, rather than a full swing-arm out and powdercoat job. Same with the front subframe, that's just flaked a very small amount on the edges of the fastener bosses. The red paint on my old greenie frame fell off like leaves in Autumn, this seems much better. Wheel and rear diff bearings and splines all look ok, will obviously grease the non-sealed ones along with the UJs.

Also the tacky (as in not very classy, rather than sticky) fake carbon wrap off the hugger. This came off waaay easier than the tank/seat film. Very satisfying!

Never seen one of those decal removal "wheels", interesting but a bit late for my purposes. Also given the brittle nature of the film, all bets are off on it working I suspect?! Yes I've been using a heat gun along with the solvent. The film was way too old and UV hardened (what a surprise) to peel off, it would just break off in tiny flakes. Slightly easier on the tail area for some reason. I also went too hot in a couple of spots and managed to damage the green stripe in the paintwork with my nail. Not a huge mark but annoying given I was being really careful. I'd assumed it was reasonably well protected under a clear coat, oh well - see pic. Yes I'm ahead of you (for once) gstallons, I've had the drained tank sitting with fuel cap open and pump plate removed for over a week now to "dry out". I'm trying to do as many jobs as possible up to first fire-up before replacing tank (drying out) and sump (waiting for Roper Plate). Probably a good idea to actually remove the cap as you say, but with the plate off it's getting pretty well aired. Thanks for all the input guys.

The raceco SS2 is very similar to agosini's P3 .Compared to what you originally had I don't think it would be much of an improvement as raceco themselves did an improved grind for those bikes .Unfortunately it's not available anymore as far as I know.These people in the UK have taken over the cam business from Raceco UK and might be able to help. In your shoes I'd be tempted to look at a more recent model second hand cam.The factory improved the oiling by having the holes directly under the followers rather than on the side of them and most German cam grinders do this modification too...not sure how significant it really is but I can't see it being a backwards step either. have a look here at HMB's offerings https://hmb-moto.de/Engine-Tuning-Repair

This https://www.amazon.it/Cancellare-Adattatore-rimozione-Professionale-pellicole/dp/B08BG3D9Y3/ref=asc_df_B08BG3D9Y3/?tag=googshopit-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=701213345730&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5995203386749263621&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9218491&hvtargid=pla-925105828522&mcid=4f1e119a2e33385b94bfaabb262910d8&gad_source=1&language=en_GB&th=1

I'm using a proprietary sticker/glue/RTV silicone remover, mainly because it's paint friendly. I've now got 90% of the actual film off (apart from over the delicate decals) so mostly dealing with sticky residue. So thinking other mild solvents might be worth trying (under the seat area first!) Agree on those tyres, I once reimported a Triumph Hurricane on the original ribbed front tyre from 1972. It snapped like a rotten carrot with mild application of a tyre lever but didn't look nearly as bad as these. Possibly ozone plus UV? All the wiring loom connector gaiters and suspension dust seals are similar but inlet manifold rubbers seem ok??

I believe the factory started the switch to roller tappets in the mid 2012.

Looks like plenty of clearance for a paddock stand to engage the lower frame side plate nuts.