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Had a poor > no start issue. There is a multi-pin connector on the left front of the frame from the regulator/rectifier wiring loom. It is not a sealed connector and is exposed to rain, road spray, soap, etc. Separate it and clean the terminals on both sides using a pipe cleaner soaked in contact cleaner, denatured alcohol or similar. Probe as far into the connectors as you can, then use air or canned "duster" to blow everything out and dry it. Then, probe and swab the contacts using a fresh pipe cleaner with Caig DeoxIt on it, then plug and unplug 2-3 times to ensure good contact. I had no problems since. A check of running voltage with a multimeter will let you know if all is OK. Mine was 14.02V, which is "acceptable."

Not very wise here.. but a common failure is the voltage regulator from a dodgy ground. This would have let the battery run down. If it was truly 0 volts (!) it may be dead even though you charged it. Battery's don't like being totally discharged. Once you have replaced the voltage regulator and ran a solid ground from the regulator case to the engine block and most likely replaced the battery..report back. Oh, and welcome to the best knowledge base on the V11 in the world. Somebody else may have a better idea than me shortly..

So obviously the first thing to do is make sure the charging system is working. That description is consistent with riding off with a freshly charged battery on a bike that isn't charging. Battery runs flat after a while, and the bike stops running. I'd say there may well be something else happening, as not all of what you describe can be immediately blamed on the charging system, but make sure that is working first. If it isn't, there is not much point in fluffing around looking for other issues until it is sorted.

But NOT with Tyco relays!!! Oh crap, the yaw control is intermittant. Let me just pull to the side of the......

Not much to go on yet, pull your spark plugs and check for fouling. A weak ignition can foul plugs.

Kris knows a great song when he hears it Written by Jimmy Webb for Glen, originally recorded with the Wrecking Crew

No apologies needed for such an amazing musician.

Speaking of Les Paul. One of the coolest things at the American Banjo Museum is an electric Banjo he built way back when.

Sorry..Double shot today..

Hi all, a newbie to this forum. A brief run-down of the history here; She has been running nicely (for a bit), but after about an hour she coughs, splutters and dies at idle or at the traffic lights if I am not 'on' the throttle. I have recently replaced all fuel hoses through a Guzzi dealer and added a new lithium battery and she has been starting first push of the button. Last week I took her out and again, after about an hour or about 30km in traffic, she coughed, spluttered and completely died. A battery voltage check on the road side read '0' volts, so I trucked her home, recharged the battery to full and tried again to start her. Now, she has power, but struggles to start...she cuts out quick and has a backfire. There also seems to be a strong gas smell after attempting to start. Any help from you wise men out there would be greatly appreciated. David

Okay gentlemen, thank you so much for the guidance here. A volt-meter check a few months ago suggested it was charging okay while running; but obviously not. Maybe the battery was already damaged. So, I will start with the charging system and voltage regulator check, with new battery if necessary. At the same time check the plugs and po18guy's multi-pin connector cleaning. There is enough here to keep me going for a while. Cheers to you all, David

I checked those connections on the back of the fuse box and they weren’t corroded at all. I still sprayed them with Deoxit and reassembled. My bigger problem right now is that there is no spark at either plug. This happened after the fuel pump finally primed (after the relay clicked away for a minute) and the bike still wouldn’t start. I just haven’t had time to remove the tank and investigate. Stay tuned.

yessir. And good clarification!… thanks, as it’s both back of relay attach and fuse block thats of interest, but only the fuse block has that type of access.

If a drone comes on this property & I see it , it is in season !

Referring to these hidden connectors under the fuse block?

Wow. I'd love to hear how that thing sounds.

I don't see any regulations for flying these, or at least not that I can find. Yet they are sold out through 2025. Should be interesting.

I didn’t read in this thread where you pulled/cleaned the back side of the relay attach receptacle, like Docc advised? You probably did it, but don’t think I saw that confirmed. Just spraying deoxit back there isn’t usually adequate, gotta pull the connections, inspect, clean, spray, re-assemble. Sure sounds like a semi-crappy connection.

This is such great feedback and gives me good direction. Many, many thanks. Photos and diagrams thumbs up. Not sure if it's a "this weekend" project or a "next weekend" project. But @swooshdave won't let it drift much beyond that :). Appreciated! Chris

Handy in a zombie apocalypse too!

Even one would be annoying if the pilot were anyone else but me. Same as the "package delivery via drone" that got some attention a while back, i.e. that Amazon, DHL & co. could deliver to your house with a drone. Might sound convenient for the recipient, but I really do not want to see that happen. Apocalypse in the air is a good description...

One of these in the air would be great . An air full of these and you have an Apocalypse. Think rednecks at an ATV park , Karens or Sov. Cits.

Last day of my holidays and just managed to sneak out for a wee 120 kay ride...to be sure to be sure! Sure enough, this latest and probably last tweak is a ripper! Just love how she handles now! Almost time for a glass in front of the fire.... Yep, near end of October and we've still got the fire on. It was 10-12 degrees when I was out an about and 13 now at near 3pm, still I've got a nice wee inner glow on ha ha Cheers

I will have to think about this ......YOU DO NOT WANT TO GIVE UP THIS SOON !

Yeah, sorry if I seemed a bit vehement in my response, it wasn't meant to be an attack on you Ray but after twelve years of dealing with W5AM bikes that have had these 'Simple fixes' used on them I know that they can not only be ineffective but also downright damaging. All of these bits of shit work on the principle of 'Fooling' the ECU into delivering more fuel. Many of them, an example being the 'Fat Duc' product are a variable resistor that goes in between the narrow band O2 sensor in the exhaust and the ECU. This supposedly 'Tricks' the ECU into thinking that the engine is running lean and adjusts the parameters in the closed loop area of the map to make the injector pulse with longer. The problem is that what it really does is simply confuse the ECU and it can end up going into a tailspin where it adds far, far too much fuel. It then recognises there is a problem and throws up a 'Service' warning on the dash and drops the bike into 'Limp' mode. You can feel when this happens. It feels like arse! The overfuelling can also do substantial damage over time. The Mistral device is also simply an variable resistor only it goes between the air temperature sensor and the ECU. This is even more spectacularly useless. When initially installed it will create a rich condition, once again very crudely, but the problem is the O2 sensor will detect the rich condition and then, over a short period of time, will pull fuel out of the pulse width until it recognises the mix is what it thinks it should be. All these horrid little widgets tend to thrive because a.) People are wary or downright scared of Fuel Injection. And b.) People think they are a cheap and easy magic bullet. They are neither! The air temperature fooler device could be used to, very crudely, enriched the mixture if you download the map, open it with a tool like Tunerpro and turn the lambda function, (The O2 sensor input.) off and re-upload the modified map. The thing is you wouldn't want to. The common belief is that 'Modern bike's are mapped lean to meet emissions'. This is in fact the almost exact opposite of the truth. Most maps are rich and then rely on the lambda input to pull fuel out of the map to meet the emissions target. If you turn the lambda off in most of the map the very last thing you want to do is put more fuel in! The other thing is if you are going to turn the lambda off you have to read the map, modify it and re-upload it. If you are going to do that why not just get, (Or build.) a decent map for your bike and upload it? All you need is Guzzidiag, Reader and Writer, two cables and a beater laptop! The map will probably be cheaper than one of these shitty widgets and you need to have the cables and laptop for tuning the bike anyway. Sorry, I didn't mean to jump down Ray's throat but these things, and the people who spruik them, really piss me off. Pete