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THANK YOU!! You just solved the problem with your question about relay four. I hadn’t bothered to replace it (didn’t really know what it did). Relay five, which I replaced, just clicked away many, many times before the pump would prime. I replaced four and the pump immediately primed.

Wicking grade is low viscosity loctite and is designed to migrate into threads with the fastener already installed and torqued. It's also used extensively as a porosity filler when having porose castings commercially repaired. I used it to fix the porosity on my Daytona heads and did a how to thread on it. Phil

Henkel make LocTite, and give good advice on product selection, depending on load, gap filling needs, and temperature. Retaining solutions | Henkel Adhesives I have an old pre-modification plate I can measure for you if you need to confirm protrusion and spacing of the posts.

Use some loctite 638. Phil

In the diagram part #2 the spring stool has a pin mark that lines up with the left hand cylinder you want to take a paint stick and mark it better visibility.

You need a bolt 12 mm x 1.5 about 110 mm fully threaded to compress the clutch. If you can't find that get some threaded rod. Don't go around the perimeter of the ring gear loosening the bolts you can damage the plates low probability but why take the chance you will need it when reassembly everything. I bought a bike off a member for a few dollars because a dealer trashed his clutch only went 12,000 miles(sad) Euro cycle out of business.

Rereading the thread, it looks like it was the combination of both Relay #4 and Relay #5 . . . they work in tandem.

Gstallons is 100% correct. I’m embarrassed that it took this long to discover.

docc , I am gonna say # 4 relay was the culprit

Remove the senter piece, where the clutch rod hit. And yes removing the bolts will work to. Cheers Tom.

Yessir!

Thank you again. I just got back from a fantastic, albeit chilly (wasn’t dressed for it) ride. Everything performed flawlessly and it even restarted after I got home. Today’s adventure did NOT involve a trailer.

Certainly replace all of the relays with the new High Current versions. If issues persist, I would inspect, clean, and repair (if necessary) the ignition switch . . .

well the deal fell thru so still looking.

Not only keeps you going, it hopefully gets you going. These really should have been the sealed 'AMP' connectors, but that's for another life.

What is the "wicking" LocTite that Lucky_Phil and Chuck both suggested? While you are in there, perhaps a Chuck-designed/Scud SuperSpring? Plus, certainly worth this effort:

Okay gentlemen, thank you so much for the guidance here. A volt-meter check a few months ago suggested it was charging okay while running; but obviously not. Maybe the battery was already damaged. So, I will start with the charging system and voltage regulator check, with new battery if necessary. At the same time check the plugs and po18guy's multi-pin connector cleaning. There is enough here to keep me going for a while. Cheers to you all, David

Or the other way 'round: he ran out of Bitubos, and swung a deal with Öhlins to chuck a crate of dampers in with the shocks he was ordering for the flash model that year.