Leaderboard

You are correct! I forgot to take into consideration the mechanical wear. That should come to play too....

Thought I'd close this out by showing my (hopefully temporary) solution to fit the original steel swing-arm. Adding the widths of the components together, it was 6.7mm short of the designed 301mm between arms so I machined up a thick washer and milled a "T"-shaped brass block with 10mm reamed hole to take the brake calliper pin.

Guzzis are supposed to look like Sophia Loren, not Caroline Deisler.

Gee maybe this is the start of this zombie apocalypse the morons keep bleating about.... They seem to have taken to the wheel already! Ps yeah no doubt it's worldwide and not just here.

With all due respect , when you find the perfect formula to use ambient temperature , engine temperature / valve clearance #s please post them . I "think" you are overthinking this adjustment.

Another epic failure of my humor.

The Moderator has very helpfully checked and given me the links to the manuals that didn't seem to work from the threads I found that gave them on this site. He says they work now. This shows the forks as being the FG43. Interestingly, I contacted Brooks of Bradford, a specialist Ohlins repair and refurbishment specialist here in the UK that refurbished and replated my front forks 4 years ago. (They have worked brilliantly ever since without any oil leaks in probably 15-20kmiles, something that was giving me a problem before in spite of changing the seals). I asked them if they had any record of what model they thought the forks were and got the answer FG313. I got the manual for this as well and there does not appear much difference between the two. The only thing I noticed was that the compression damping adjustment in both shows the 3mm Allen key at right angles to the bottom of the fork while my adjustment is much nearer 30 degrees to the axis of the fork, with the Allen key angled upwards, as shown in the MG owners manual. They said that Ohlins often made non-standard forks for particular bikes that, while based on one of their standard designs, often incorporated differences and I guess in the V11 case this meant a different casting at the bottom of the fork to incorporate the brake calliper attachment. This probably explains the difference in the angle of the compression adjustment.

Why are the intakes set with commas and the exhausts with periods?

This song goes back to the late 60's for me. Thought about it on my way home from Sauvie Island today. It fits the season and place perfectly.

Watching dash cam videos on YouTube makes me want to stay inside. I think it is terrible everywhere .

My Facom feeler gauges set starts at 0.04mm and goes to 0.10mm in 0.01 increment... Ha!

Yes, but don't forget that wear can dish the gap between valve and follower and falsify the reading! (comma, period...) I've read lots of posts in various forums about valve clearance. The above, about taking care that you get a good measurement, about the benefits of leaving the clearance at the long end of the tolerance, whatever. We're talking about highly-tuned tractor motors here. And a standard set of feeler gauges goes in 0.05 mm steps (0,05 in Europe... ). I've come to the conclusion that it is sufficient if the target-clearance gauge goes through, and the next larger one doesn't.

There is a saying in Germany, with a ring of truth to it, that translates as "nothing lasts longer than a stop-gap solution"... Seriously though, well done. A very neat solution. Just keep an eye on the brass bit. If I recall correctly, the equivalent original part is steel. Maybe the brass can take it, but I'd be watching it to make sure.

The Guzzi vs the Ducati, yah?

Yeah, the price was a killer and I really don't like that angular of looks. I really want to keep the stock tank and just move to a vertical stacked headlight arrangement.

Yep, great food at Bonge's. I've ridden by, but the times I've eaten there ( a long time ago), cars were necessary to drag our bloated carcasses home. I used to work with Tony, the original (reconstruction) owner and chef. Tailgating is encouraged!

From the tank of my 93 1000S. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-S906B via Tapatalk

Interesting, to a point. Thanks for the link @p6x Very telling what happens at about 17:18. Overtaken by a push-bike.

Lowryter and Bev took us here one time..

Has anyone put this up yet? If not, it's about time. If they have, it's about time it came up again.

Oh, yeah. Let's ask the other inmates on the ward if it's crazy for docc to lie awake at night thinking about another motorcycle . . .

"De gustibus et coloribus etc", but I found this 2025 color combination for the V100S (and, most importantly, non-black-colored wheels!) most impressive

She actually never went down on the right side. The valve covers were swapped and I never bothered to put them back on the 'correct' side. She's gone down twice on the left. First time, someone changed lanes into me. I tried to 'eject' from the bike but my left foot got caught by the exhaust and the bike ended up dragging me about 100ft before it came to a stop at a curb. Amazingly, I didn't have any injuries at all. That prompted to paint job and other additions like the staintune pipes since the carbon fiber ones I had got damaged. Second time someone cut into my lane turning left. It was wet that day and I happened to be braking over a painted section. It was minor enough that I didn't bother to fix it with all the other projects and priorities I had at the time. I love that bike; it's taken me through death valley, the sierras and all over California. I'm happy it's going to someone who will give it the love it needs. A Ghezzi Brian kit was something I toyed with myself but never got around to

That’s it. Maxed out with so many V11s I did always wanted a Rosso Corsa & Coppa Italia

I bought these: http://motobits.com/guzzi.htm solves the shifter problem too. [docc Copied Image Location.]

The part number are: N0520.1AD and N0521.1AD. Check Amazon and maybe St Paul Harley Davidson. They are available. MIke

The pegs are tight. Neither lever is encumbered. I might adjust the shift lever down just a bit to compensate for the lower peg. Mike

+ 5 hours from shutdown, engine temp 27˚C/ air temp 25˚C; valves have stayed 0.006/0.008. Other than the hot (90˚C) valves being unexpectedly looser, and the intake looser than the exhaust, there are a couple other observations: 1) With the fans on the motor, it cooled almost 90% in 40 minutes and the valves returned to their "stone cold" setting. So, I would conclude that the motor simply needs to "cool down" for valve adjustment, but doesn't need to be "stone cold" or sit overnight; not even for hours. Notably, the valve cover was removed during the cool-down. 2) It's OK to remove the spark plugs from a hot engine. But best to replace them when cold. 3) guzzidiag is a wonderful tool for monitoring actual engine temperature/ air temperature.