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More than happy to pay for quality in anything... But I object to paying for crap masquerading as quality...regardless of where it was made. Cheers

Correction. It’s an ATS sensor fooler that stops the system going closed loop. Temp has to register >20*C before it does that so it just makes the bike run on the base map, which despite what people think, is usually rich. Once again, why would anyone use such a thing when you can remap easily and cheaply?

I agree with the last paragraph. Companies having their own "in country" representation also helps with regards to QC monitoring as well I think. Phil

I was told by a friend that checked with Travis County and Hays County (Austin area) and found that Travis will continue to require motorcycle inspections (but not cars) in 2025 but in Hays County neither will need inspections. This runs counter to what I had found with my own research, so we will see shortly.

You have a Tenni for sale in San Diego, California. It is listed as a 2002 and 6500 dollars. It is on Facebook Market place. Easy to find.

I don’t need to read the company blurb. I know what it is, I know how these things are supposed to work, they are utter bollocks and I’m afraid you obviously don’t understand how the product you are selling works which probably doesn’t bode well for its efficacy. Oh, and the person who has done the most thorough research on these things and has debunked their abilities to do what they say accurately has done work for Mistral and is saddened that they are selling such junk. The fact that in the list of models it’s suitable for it lists Californias with lambda probe suggests it’s, as I thought, a lambda signal fooler. In which case it won’t *Work* on pre-2003 V11’s so that’s incorrect for starters and further, as I think I explained, it can cause monstrous overfuelling on machines running a closed loop map. Do you understand how the closed loop system works and at what point lambda input is relevant? If not I would strongly suggest you don’t try and sell products that interfere with the signal. You’re opening yourself up to a legal minefield.

Whilst this is true: This is not fair: Don't forget, for instance, the luxury product "Apple MacIntosh" is, to a very large degree, produced in China. The Wiki says https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apple_Inc.#Supply_chain The quality you get from China, amongst other producing countries, entirely depends on what the client stipulates and is prepared to pay for. If the client company is cheapskate, you get crap. If the client company is prepared to pay for quality, that is what you get.

Some US insurance companies won't insure your car without a separate tracker fitted. People have bought second hand cars and have battery drain issues and subsequently found a tracker wired into the system they were unaware of the previous owner was obliged to fit. Maybe the DD preppers and tin foil hat brigade aren't looking so silly now,lol.

You just need to move to Texas, where you don't need a jacket to drive top down in winter. A T-shirt will suffice. Less expensive...

Oops, yes please & thanks again!

Somehow, you deleted your previous post (after I gave it a "like"), @EAB. I can restore it, if you like . . .

That's handy to know, as don't like the idea of trusting my motor's well- being / life expectancy to some Chinese process workers quality control...... I know the vid says made in Mexico, but cheap labour usually goes hand in glove with poor Q C. Cheers

Some lovely kit, there. I'll have to ask Santa for one of these for driving the ///M roadster, top down, in the winter . . .

@activpop If you guys are interested in top notch italian motorcycle jackets, here's a brand that I would recommend Shangri-La Heritage; Remember that all the prices shown include the VAT, meaning that you automatically have a 22% discount when they ship outside of Europe. You can also design your own custom jacket. https://shangrilaheritage.it/about-us/

Another example of piss poor quality control..... Unfortunately, with potentially catastrophic repercussions!

I drilled half of the pucks in my bike back in Mar 2018. Six drilled pucks, with the remaining cavities empty. The difference was barely noticeable, but I liked the idea of lowered shock loads on splines/gears/dogs. I have not felt the need to revert to standard over the last 6 years. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/30472-rear-wheel-for-tire-change/#findComment-286089

Opening a spin on filter is really easy. Just use an old school, (Only type I possess.) can opener, (As that’s basically what the filter is, a can for the filtering medium.) whizz the flange off, lift off the ‘Dome’ of the container and ‘Voila’! There is the filtering medium. You can also see and work out how the bypass system works which for a lot of people is an eye, rather than can, opener! (F’nar, F’nar! I slay myself sometimes!)

That is very good. I watched some experts setting up bikes with Guzzi Diag at the forum rally last year. The bloke on the computer is Beard (Bernd) who programmed Guzzi Diag (the computer is inside the cardboard box that he is looking into). Karsten, orange t-shirt and overalls, was doing the adjustments. Going by what he was satisfied with for the TPS on various bikes, within 2 mV of the target is excellent.

I did the half rubber number in my 87 and did a bunch of whittlin' on my black frame bike . Stopped because I could tell no difference . I do think running 1/2 the amount of rubbers would weaken the system and cause you problems in the long run. If they made softer rubber pucks , I think I would go for some BUT they don't so I will find something more important to worry about.

I think the drive in my '89 Mille had never been opened. Dry, a little corrosion on the aluminum hub, a little rust on the steel drive plate. Add 30 years and it was a bit like changing a very stiff motocross knobby with a pair of 6" screwdrivers. It only popped out with two 24" pry bars and the abandonment of any concern for damage to the hub or splines.

Note; last time apart, I lubricated my drive rubbers with silicone grease. Works a charm! Except for the part where when it gets warm it ejects blackened silicone grease out the cracks and paints my rear rim with gooey tar. Fortunately it cleans up easily. The message here is use lube sparingly. I'd use spray silicone next time, and just a dusting.

Then you can see 12 rubber pucks in recesses in the wheel hub. Some people grease the recesses and the non-metallic ring. I coated these with moly dry lube spray. You can see that I fitted only half of the pucks in my bike, and they were drilled to be more squishy. As you assemble, check that the O-ring is good, and there is wheel bearing grease on the spline plate bore. Before you refit the wheel, put a good layer of spline grease like Staburags NBU 30 PTM on the splines at the connection to the bevel box.