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The problem with a lot of gear sets that have been, and in some cases still are, offered for the venerable 2V motor is that they are utter shite. Shite material, shite production, shite tooth form or a combination of any or all of the above. Twenty years ago I ended up being abused and sometimes physically threatened by people who swore by the wretched things . I was told all sorts of guff, the funniest being that I had ‘Installed them wrong’! It’s three wheels on sticks! How hard can it be??? There were various commonly available types. Full alloy sets, sometimes made of Ergal, which is a particularly tough form of aluminium alloy, but often just seemingly any old cheesy junk. Then there were alloy/steel composite sets with a steel crank gear and aluminium oil pump and cam gears and finally a set with a nylon crank gear and aluminium pump and cam gears. Now ‘Back in the day’ I too was a dyed in the wool ‘Gears are best’ person and indeed, if made correctly from the correct materials, they really are. I spent several years exploring the different options but unlike many of the ‘True Believers’ I didn’t just fling them in and forget about them. I’d put them in and then regularly reopen and examine them for wear and damage. What I found was very disturbing. They ALL started failing almost immediately! Even when I tried modifying the timing chest so that the pump gear ran in an oil bath to assist in lubrication of the teeth they all failed. I actually have a ‘Rogues Gallery’ of a few failed sets of different types in my Flickr gallery, these include some pics taken by Joe Caruso of similarly buggered sets he’s removed. These include some of the Ergal sets made by Agostinis that some of the more wild-eyed swear by! I have terrible trouble getting pics to post on V11 LeMans.com but I can probably send a link to the gallery if anyone is interested? The end result is I refused to install them. They were and are, engine wreckers. No ifs or buts! This doesn’t mean I don’t think gears are ‘The Best’ solution. Simply that these comparatively cheap commercial sets aren’t it! FWIW back in the ‘70’s and ‘80’s you used to be able to buy helically cut steel gears with quite a fine tooth pitch. I shelled out for a set of these way back when and they were brilliant. I clocked up an astonishing distance with them in my ‘Primary’ bike and used them in my short stroke hot-rod. While the helical cut meant they would sap a bit of power it also gave you the advantage you could shim the cam gear to finesse the cam timing to a ridiculous degree and with the cams I was playing with every bit helped! I ended up giving them to a bloke called Steve Harney, (I think?) who was racing at the same time as Rob Johnson and I were in the early 2000’s. I’ve no idea where they are now! These weren’t common, have long been unavailable but if you want gears Joe’s are certainly the only ones I’d be bothered with. For most everyday riders though keeping the chain and running a Valtech blade type tensioner is perfectly adequate. A new chain and tensioner will probably be required every 140-150,000 Km in normal use. If you throw a new set at your engine at 100,000 your sprockets will probably last until the sun shrinks to become a white dwarf so longevity isn’t really an issue! The cost is also paltry compared to Joe’s gears. So really, it’s down to choice really, and the depth of your pockets and how obsessive you are. As for the noise? I love the noise!

I used to work on a friend's Countach occasionally. It's electrical system was Guzzi familiar. Talk about a vehicle that screamed "I'm a machine.." Glorious sounds.. You couldn't drive it anywhere, though. As soon as you started it up, there would be a cop following you.

I have done a useful video on throttlebodies I recommend you watch. it covers some important stuff about the 50mm TB’s and the W5AM system.

BTW , if noise bothers you , you don't need a MotoGuzzi .

We spoke about losing all the precious memories you had accumulated over the years. The photos, the videos. I watched a few videos of artists who have lost all their art in the fire. As a guitar player, I have a lot of guitars and amplifiers and music related gear in my house. Including gear that is no longer made, or very limited editions. It's insured of course, but cannot be replaced. All my books, especially those that I brought from overseas, which are not published anymore. Last, all one's precious motorcycles, even if they can be replaced, but the vintage stuff is always full of one's emotions. I treat my machines as if they were living things. They have a soul, and they are bringing a lot of joy and emotions. I would not want to be put in the front of a decision to leave them behind.

Caps. http://kandstech.com/productreleases/sprc.pdf Note. This will be useful for V11 owners too as you will probably need new caps after you bin it. From memory the NGK’s were SB05’s caps.

They are copper core wires and yes, resistor caps. The resistor can be damaged by careless prying but in this case I’m pretty certain the problem is down to the rubber of the cap being torn. The fact it was raining when the problem arose is one indicator. Thing is when damaged the caps quite often don’t start arcing immediately. It seems to usually take about five to thirty Km for the problem to appear. Just far enough for it to be bloody inconvenient! Once the arcing happens though it’ll form a carbon track through the crack in the rubber and it’s all over red rover! Taking the plugs out and putting them in the caps and testing them against the heads is fine. You’ll still get a spark at the plug because the crack in the cap is away from the head and the spark isn’t being stressed. Electricity takes the path of least resistance and outside of the engine jumping the plug gap is easy. Once the plug is in the head the conditions, heat, compression etc. are far more hostile and so the spark looks for an easier route to earth. A nice damp crack in the boot of the plug cap is perfect! Wham-Bam-Thankyou-Mam and it’s all over bar the shouting. It’s really important NOT to ride in this condition as the uncombusted fuel from the dead cylinder gets pumped through into the exhaust where it can combust in the catalytic converter. That as you can guess is when the fun really starts!

My advice is don't try to separate the throttle bodies unless you have no other choice. Phil

Exactly, this is the way I do it. If you think about the geometry of it it makes sense that the angles and dimensions are what they need to be for the bodies in their mounted position not an inch further away when released from the rubber connectors. Remove the aluminium manifolds and connect them and the rubber sections to the throttle bodies and then move the manifolds back onto the head. Easy. I can't believe people muscle the whole assembly around by the other method. Phil

You could remove one intake manifold and install it on the assy. and put it back together .

When I did my final exam to become a mechanical engineer, they gave us a blueprint, and we had to select the type of material, thermal treatment, tolerances, together with a slue of other technical and economical parameters. But this was old school. Today, they have software that can tell you all that without you needing any specific knowledge. It is no longer seek and error like it was when Carcano decided to put together that V8. And sooner than later, AI will be able to diagnose everything without requiring any help from a human being. Each of the big Tech companies is working hard to get their AI model the best. ChatGPT, Meta, X, Amazon, Apple, Google. Of course, you will still need a pair of hands to hold the wrenches.

I see no reason they would NOT work . If you have access to Moto Guzzi parts you could see if it will . And , yes this is considered an assy. that is why EVERYTHING has Loctite on everything w/threads . I don't like it but that's the way it goes . If you were trying to fix one side you would have to find a dismantler that would be willing to part this out. Good Luck

Something else you sometimes run into that looks like that is when an exhaust pipe has a dual wall. A dual wall pipe will be single wall at the point it meets another pipe, and then that sudden increase in outer diameter is where it becomes dual wall with a gap between the inner and outer walls. The Griso head pipes are a great example of this. The dual wall pipe allows a reduction in discoloration from exhaust heat. Not saying the pipe pictured is dual wall, but sometimes that is why an exhaust pipe looks like that. From a flow point of view it would be weird to have such a sudden increase in pipe diameter at that point in the exhaust system. That is oddly not something that would likely increase exhaust velocity. In fact, if it is a sudden increase in inside diameter of the pipe it would slow down exhaust velocity at that point. Which is generally something that would not help get exhaust out. But it can be very hard to estimate exhaust flow based strictly on looks. And given the simple nature of the V11 lump I am sure it is fine either way.

thx Docc. would just be a single throttle body. I've collected most of the bits needed to do Phil's process of addressing my seeping left throttle body, but weighing that against popping on a used throttle body and putting off the rebuild process for a while.

As I said. NGK have ceased production. The end! No more! Any at any shop will be NOS. I don’t know about Champion.

might have been this bloke. He apparently makes a habit of welding smaller motors together to make bigger ones, and does a lot of the work with a hacksaw and a file. https://www.youtube.com/@AllenMillyard

Gotta love the excitement in the guy's voice at the opening of the video. As for being the Lamborghini Countach of motorcycles? From the looks of his collection, I would say that he would better qualified than I to say. And the Lambo engine song video is compelling. His maestro comes off as competent and unassuming. Seems to be a good chap. Even if he did leave the wife's doors open on that start-up.

Yes John it's actually an MGS-01 shaft which is just a std jackshaft cut down and machined to accept a 6005 roller bearing for the front case instead of the plain bearing running in the case. I seriously might just remove the rear jackshaft bearing and run the std front plain bearing in the case. The roller is good for friction but you lose the internal oil feed to the heads. I can see no reason at all Guzzi didn't do this on production engines. The rear jackshaft bearing on an 8 valver does no support that I can see and just adds friction and another oil loss path. Phil

Fwiw, I found that outboard washer between the internal/external drive spline assembly. Since I had bought the lemans from a riding pal of mine (original owner) I asked him if he had the wheels off last, he told me a shop had did the work. I'm just glad nothing got damaged or that nothing locked up on me while riding . However, it was evident that with the washer in there only half of the splines were engaged. The only reason I was rooting around in there was because the bike had not been rode in a few years and I wanted to be sure the drive & drive shaft splines were lubed and not rusted. I don't know how a shop thought to toss the washer in there since the washer ID is waaaay larger than the axle OD. Oh well.

These look great Phil I'd love to have a set in the Australia, but I don't think I could justify the cost and the not inconsiderabel hassle of pulling the Australia to pieces to install them Is that the modded Service Shaft (as Guzzi call it) cut down similar to the MGS-01................Nice, going to be one helluva engine. Large slice of green cheese for Weegie

Yes I have a set of Joes new gear and his updated pump. I thought I posted an image here a little while back. I had him make my cam gear 4mm narrower the same width as the V11 gears because a steel gear can have a higher tooth loading than the cheesy aluminium one and we save weight. His latest pump has reverted back to a plain bronze bush for the drive gear to minimise oil loss through the original oem style needle bearing. The new gears also have a different surface finish due to the previous providers of this going out of business I believe. So they are now a silver low friction finish. EDIT.. Oil pumps L to R Joes new pump, std, some aftermarket version which was almost impossible to remove due to the alignment pins being oversize. New gears and MGS-01 jackshaft

The Governments of the time were sold bullshit by the oil companies with regards to diesel powered cars because they make more money per barrel of oil from the far less refined diesel and the yield per barrel is higher so more profit. The rubbish they pedalled to European governments was better fuel economy (true) and "don't worry about the pollution we have future tech in the pipeline that will solve all that" (rubbish) The car manufacturers were on board because they could charge more for a given car because it used less fuel and the Bureaucrats bought it hook line and sinker. Does all this start sounding a bit familiar? Governments being sold bullshit by people with their own agendas. The diesel issue was a simple one, money and profits, easy to understand. The environmentalist agenda is a little more complex and is routed in politics itself and power. Don't kid yourselves into thinking it's because greater powers are trying to save your children's future. Phil

Although I haven't conversed with Joe in a long time, I used to be in quite frequent contact with him He's made several bits and pieces for me over the years and everything he sold me and a few other Guzzi folks I know has been really well made. A few racers have used his gear sets for which he's renowned his other big mod was an oil pump and gears too for the HiCam engines. The original oil pump design on the HiCam engines being badly flawed and led to several engines being reduced to scrap. I heard he was liasing with Phil on an update to the oil pump design for the HiCam, perhaps @Lucky Phil will chip in and tell us more Joe's a huge Guzzi fan and very knowledgable as well as being a really nice guy, PM me if you want his mail address, I just don't like putting it out on a public forum

I always follow the Dakar, as I think it would be a great race to participate into. Actually, they have a "Classic" category, but it is limited to cars. Doing the Dakar with the Moto Guzzi Quota would be something. I have seen guys my age doing it, obviously on four wheels. Back to Dakar, it used to be mainly a European racer's only, but as we can see today, the top competitors are coming from everywhere. Daniel Sanders has a name that goes well with his performance... lol... he won 5 stages this year, including three in a row. He is on his way to make the Dakar his. He has been first since the race started. So, an Australian is going to put his name at the top of the roster. Not bad for a farmer, and bee specialist...

Ordered a new set of plug caps. I'll report back on the results. Regardless, it's a good opportunity to learn my bike more. It is funny that a bike that I consider I know so well throws me something out of left field, and one so well documented at that. (at least I haven't touched the 'sacred screw' in all of my meddling)

Someone was peddling aluminum straight cut gears some time ago. These would have a lifespan of an ice cream cone . If they are made from the proper metal , they should last a long time. You would want to lube all of this stuff on assy. You would never put things together dry.

Absolutely agree with your sentiments and I have them on all my Guzzis. If you do cover high mileages then perhaps its down to the individual's cost/benefit analysis. The OEM duplex chain set up lasts a very long time and very rarely gives any trouble. Guzzi owners are renowned for their frugality (euphanism for tight wads) so I ASSumed most wouldn't shell out for a gear set As to noise, I can here them sometimes but not always, my pipes are a bit louder than stock and I wear earplugs. The noise is nothing like you hear from a straight cut gearbox, like my Sporti.

Sorry, can you elaborate? I make long runs on my V11, probably less tomorrow has I now have two bikes, however gears wear less than a chain, chain tensioner? you see, I recently had to replace the tensioners on my Porsche 911, both sides. On a Porsche 911, the tensioners work with the hydraulic pressure from the engine oil. However, they are also spring loaded, because when you start the engine, there is no pressure. I would think that having gears would be an advantage, since you can do without a tensioner, no?

As bad as Christine?

If these are noisy like straight cut gears in a small block Chevy , they sound like George Thorogood !

He will have to explain that theory . You need the battery ground ON the engine frame to be as effective as possible and get the best results. You want a perfect circuit in electrical to work correctly . Not like the wiring diagram shows. You can run a redundant - cable from the regulator ground to the battery cable ground for a perfect circuit. Just route it so it won't look hillbilly . 20+ years ago I worked on this Sullair air compressor that the company had spent $4500 on to get it to start correctly. SLOOOOW cranking . I used a test light and went from the + post of the battery to the starter where cable was attached to . Tried cranking and no light. Did the same to the - terminal of the battery to a good ground spot . Starter mounting bolt . Tried it again and the test light came on Bright. The - battery cable had been factory installed with the - cable attached outside of the battery box on the frame . Installed a new - cable from the battery to the starter mounting bolt with shakeproof washers on both sides of the battery cable lug and it was fixed !

If I were going to be building another 2V engine I’d be all over these like a rash. For *ordinary* people who are just riding their bikes gears are really a bit of overkill, but like the fact that twin throttle bodies appeal to my sense of ‘engineering purity’ rather than a single one I’d have to say I’d like gears. I am though, a complete twat!

I bought this silver front fender with the intention of having it painted green for my 2001 V11-Sport. I never got around to it and now it's just collecting dust. It's free if you pay the shipping

The inch of virgin rubber on the edges of the tyres on bikes that are supposed to be ridden around corners fast. Phil

Well, I think Kale bought a hydro valve 04 EV motor for around 500-750-ish then crated, shipped freight to his door with shipping cost (California to KY). I think he rode it last spring to Road Atlanta, runs good. The transmission was also salvaged before, it’s a solution.

One thing I often get is some wild eyed idiot telling me that his shitty, poorly maintained, Cali 1100 can out handle my CARC bikes. Even better I’ve had people saying their early LeMans is faster! I’ve even had these people challenge me to a ‘Race’ to prove their point! What sort of lunatic is going to respond to a challenge like that FFS? I’m knocking on the door of seventy! These toothless imbeciles are usually older than me! And they expect me to engage in a ‘Race’ with them? On a public road? With all of the associated imbeciles and road furniture mixed in? Nah, they’re right of course. I’m just too pusillanimous to engage their visceral manliness and their wheezing bags of shit are just too good for my crappy ‘Modern’ motorbike with its plastic tank that has been strangled by government legislation and overreach! Give me f*cking strength……..

Plus, early V11 Sports used the red Champion caps.

Regarding the rather blood-curdling sound of these Kawi triples, I am reminded of a year at the Barber Vintage Festival watching their chief mechanic and head technical person (I'm sorry to have misplaced his name) roll various bikes out front of the building and start them, giving them a proper series of blips on the throttle to warm the motor and please the crowd. Out he rolls a Kawasaki 2-stroke that some clever fellow had Siamese'd a pair together for a transverse six. What a ripping hoot! Talk about crowd pleaser!

Worth a try but I don’t think it will be long enough.

Up to probably the mid 80's when the KawasakiGPZ900 and the First GSXR750 Suzuki were released the Japanese were almost 100% focused on the US market and what was the US market focused on? Straight line acceleration. I remember those days where people would ditch their near new bike for a model that came out that was .1 seconds faster down the quarter and all every Japanese big bike owner could talk about was 1/4 mile times. Us European owners were like leapers there for a decade and a half or so, lol. Thankfully time have changed and now I'm surrounded by 25 year old wannabees in full racing leathers logoed up identical to their racing hero's on $80,000 sports bikes with one inch chicken strips on the tyres telling you how great the handling is. Oh hang on, can I go back to the mid 80's please. Phil

https://firepowerparts.com/spark-plug-cap-sb05e-replaces-ngk-8374/ Here's another one that may be a better fit- of course, I have no 8v nor this plug boot to hand, but if it was me I'd waste the money on a set to try. https://firepowerparts.com/spark-plug-cap-xb05f-replaces-ngk-8062/

Well, that is likely your problem. The caps are very soft and tear easily. Levering them off from the top as shown almost invariably damages them. It may not be obvious at first glance but if you remove the lead covers and spin the bike over in a dark garage you will likely hear, and probably see, the spark *Snapping* to earth between the right angle of the cap and the rocker cover. The factory supplied, at enormous cost, a sort of grabby tool that you could slide down the cap to grip it and pull it up. I’ve never seen one! Ain’t nobody gunna pay for that nonsense! The way to remove the caps without damage is to get a long, thin, flat bladed screwdriver and poke it into the cooling tunnel in the head just above the exhaust manifold. Prod around with it and you’ll feel the soft rubber of the cap. You can then hook the end of the blade under the bottom of the cap and lever the cap up, off the electrode. Once the cap’s clip is clear of the electrode tip then and only then do you grab the cap at the top and wriggle it out with a gentle twisting motion. When reinstalling give a light smear of rubber grease around the sealing ‘rings’ on the cap to make it easier to slip out next time. Now the common replacement for the rather delicate original caps used to be NGK SB05-E or F caps, the suffix letter denoting the fitment for the tip shape of the plug centre electrode. Thing is NGK have ceased production of plug caps due to lack of demand, (Everything having moved to plug top coils.) but nature abhors a vacuum and there is another mob whose name I can’t remember off the top of my head who have stepped into the breach. I think though I put a link to their site up on Griso Ghetto, (Which is probably your best source for 8V info and yes, we like ALL CARC bikes so you won’t be ostracised!). The NGK caps don’t have the right angle tops and you have to bend the HT lead over to fit it under the lead cover which looks a bit ugly but it works. If you’re lucky you may find a set of NOS NGK caps on fleabay or the like. Next up in your steep learning curve will be understanding how the W5AM ECU controls the engine and why you should never move the ‘Sacred’ throttle stop screw while tuning it!

Buy a set for a 2000 V11 Sport. I'm not aware of any issues with muffler cross fitting between the catted and non catted bike which if is the case then Agostinis is wrong. Reliable info is hard to come by these days as all the older knowledgeable people in retail environments are being replaced by young "customer service" kids that don't actually know anything beyond year model stuff on a computer screen. My bike has Agostini mufflers, Stucchi cross over and V11 header pipes fitted to a Daytona engine in a V11 Sport chassis. All fitted perfectly without any modifications. Can you imagine asking a modern parts person whether this combo would work? They'd spit their coffee across the room and have a coughing fit. Phil