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Many of you reading this know or know of Chet … an avid West Virginia Guzzista and “Chethro” on ADVRider. Regrettably, Chet was in a very serious motorcycle accident involving a deer strike in early November. See more here: https://advrider.com/f/threads/chethros-wv-nearby-travels.1468688/page-134#post-51683267 Chet was hospitalized for weeks, in rehab for a lengthy period, and is finally at home with a long recovery period ahead. Chet's good friend, Eric, was following Chet when the day turned Chet’s world upside-down, and has posted updates of Chet’s condition. Eric’s wife is a skilled quilter, and had the idea to make Chet a quilt as a small blanket or throw that he might enjoy during his continued rehab. The quilt squares are made from the front and/or back of a T-shirt. The quilt requires minimum of 12 tees, with 16 preferred, of Moto Guzzi content; subject matter front and rear would count as two. The size and condition is not overly important since she will be cutting them down to 12x12 squares. That said, as we all probably know from our own collections, “some tees are better than others,” i.e., so more to choose from is a good thing. With Guzzisti, I am compelled to add “washed and clean” tees. 😄 I suspect we all have tees that could be of service in this great cause. Given the sad realities of privacy and security in 2025, PM, email me <wrhagan AT earthlink DOT net>, or text me at FourZeroFour.8Zero8.84EightSix as to where to mail your tees. Thanks. Bill

I got a set of 3-peak-snowflake rated tires for my F150. The truck had 20 inch wheels with short sidewalls, and I got a set of 17 inch wheels and the BF Goodrich KO3s that were almost same size as stock (10mm wider but same height). They are much better on snow and ice than the stock tires. They are a bit noisier, and probably a tad less fuel-efficient. But they are safer and more versatile, as they are also really good for traction on dry dirt and rocks. I did quite a bit of research on pure snow tires, vs the 3-peak rated all-terrains, vs those simply rated M&S. The snow tires performed best in snow, as you would expect. But the 3-peak were good enough for a conservative driver with 4WD. And the 3-peak significantly outperformed the M&S rated tires. So the 3-peak, at least for my needs, was the clear winner in terms of safety + versatility. They enabled me to have just one set of tires I could confidently use year-round in desert, snow, highway, around-town, etc. Plus they look tougher and more rugged than the stock tires.

Well, doh. Thank you for slapping me into clarity. She is looking for Moto Guzzi tees, i.e., brand specific. Guzzi rallies or related are fine, too, but Guzzi is the theme. Apologies for my brain cramp in not making that clear from the start. I'm now going to other places and correcting my posts there. Bill

I don't see any cracks, nor any brace in the boxes...I have more than a couple months to find everything and ... read everything.

I think this is a crack in the area around the transmission housing . There was no radius at an edge of the housing and a crack developed. A "fix" is a brace that goes from the trans. housing to the bike frame. This will only fit the red frame bikes . Someone on this forum was making and selling them . A "must" for a red frame bike. P.S. this radius BS is hypercritical and I mean HYPERCRITICAL .

does original owner have a recollection of why it needed 'sending out'? If it's not the notorious red frame 'crack' or some other seriousness .. you'll be smiling in no time. I have a spring if Scud is out.

I am so glad it's working out! Brian

Spoke with Dave Blue today. Just to put it to rest, he's a great guy and under no suspicion of inadequacy, all a misunderstanding on the part of the previous owner- who is also a decent guy and under no aspersions. He still has the transmission, in the same condition it came to him in. I found the rear cover in question in a box of parts that came with the bike, so they'll eventually be reunited. Dave wasn't even certain why it was sent to him as the recall had been done previously. I suppose I'll need a shift return spring- was that @Chuck who has them? Gotta learn a whole new box now lol

I purchased a 1997 Centauro to convert into a Daytona / Cafe Bike. After researching forums I’m ready to contact the members that have been down this road. Beyond belts, gears and a pump any suggestions would be welcome. The route I’m planning for now is to use a front fairings off a 1100 Sport with the rectangular headlight and its fuel tank. The fairing bracket will also be used. The back half fairing , seats and bracket may also be procured if a deal is out there. These items appear to be a somewhat easy fit .??? What about handlebars ? The donor bike has a different air box, instrument cluster and things I have not considered. Before I start down this rabbit hole $$$ any advice would be appreciated. Note : I bought the bike as is cheap. I have a video of it running. Fairings are all off the bike. I pulled the spark plugs and manually turned over the engine to verify the belts are still intact. Having owned a 1993 Daytona I got this pipe dream of converting a Centauro into something fun. Now the dream has started….

Yes I did reinstall all the old relays, replaced the blown fuses and bike runs normal like how it used to be. Must be the new relay but just couldn't figure out the reason behind it.

In practical terms, no. EFI versions need a different fuel tap with larger connection threads and also a return fitting for the pressure regulator which the carb bikes don't have. The fuel level sensor types are different as well depending on the model. Carb bikes have float sensor and EFI bikes thermistor so connection flange differs. Anything is possible if you throw enough money at it and can find an "expert at tank welding and fabricating but as I said not "practically" possible. Phil

Nothing like this has happend before at all, I only change the relay with Durakool as a preventative maintance. 2001 V11 Rosso Mandello. the very first fuse (5 amp) front the front (ECU fuse), which is labeled F1 on the wiring diagram. Will do some resistance test on these Durakool relays and compare them with Siemens and Panasonic relays that is currently on the bike.

Very, very few of the RedFrame V11 Sports had the trans-frame plate support. Perhaps, only the very earliest Sports in Italy and Germany (1999?). The vulnerable crack point is typically the left, upper mounting boss for the frame cross bolt. @Lucky Phil posted a thorough investigation/ remediation of this. Many of us have retrofitted the frame support plate on the early RedFrame. Perhaps @LowRyter's man still has some in stock in Oklahoma (?) Be aware of the numerous leak points in the V11 motor-to-gearbox ("bellhousing") while they are easy to get to . . .

He said it had a leaky rear main seal. That's all I got... Trans went to Dave without the rear cover Rear cover turns up in a box here with no output shaft seal Dave had me inspect the cover for cracks or damage, I found none It's all a mystery. Of course I'll give it a thorough inspection, reseal, clutch slave and seal as well as a more thorough inspection for cover damage. Dave suggested something around the output seal area? What is the 'Notorious Red Frame Crack'? Were these the ones without the upper trans-to-frame support?

Phil, I was told you were the guy to answer my questions. Question #1. If I procure a 1100 Sport fuel tank, does it matter if it is off a carbureted or a FI model ? My screen saver is a black Dr John Daytona. When I open my computer 🫶 something always comes over me. I once read a Sport Bike article comparing three expensive European bikes to a Honda 600cc. The premise was why not spend half as much for the Honda and get better performance and handling. In the end the writer said, because when you get up in the morning in your boxers and kick open the garage door with your cup of coffee in hand you say “ Damn that’s a good looking bike”! I am prepared to bail on this project and have a Centauro restoration. I however find the coffee experience looking in the garage at a Daytona amazing. Wish me luck 🤞in my procurement of parts.

Half the stuff you've mentioned is unprocurable these days and if you can buy it extremely expensive. ( Sport fuel tank, fairing etc) You'll need a rear seat frame or the equipment and ability to modify the Centy one. There's a million things before you get to the engine itself, the parts for which no longer exist in reality so it's buy bespoke cam gears, oil pump, etc. Remember Guzzi made less than 3000 of these engines in total across the Centy and Daytona models. The 8 valve engine isn't like the 2 valve big block engine with regards to longevity. The heads are a high wear item as are the cam drive and oil pump gears and oil pump. The project you're thinking of is about 10-15 years too late to be a practical, rational idea. I know I've half done it and am currently building a 95mm bore 8 valve engine which makes so little sense I'm considering abandoning the idea. By the time it's finished it will probably have cost me $8000 in parts and thats with me doing all the machining and labour with the exception of a crank re grind. Read this.

Yeah, Dave Blue is one of the good guys..

Discussed the specifics of their R/R with them, also when wired directly to the battery. Their R/R only switches the +12v connection on when it see an AC voltage, thereby preventing mA draw with the bike off. I also asked them if they could lengten the + and - wires (originally 57cm) to 120cm with the connectors separate. "Absolutely no problem, just let us known in the comments when you order". So I ordered and received a sent confirmation only about 3 hours later. I received the regulator, with 120cm of wire on it, nicely sleeved all the way. Drilled new holes in the mounting bracket (and gave it a lick of paint) & tested the bike: shockingly stable charge voltages. Problem solved.

Yes, I used to be a fan of snow tires for winter driving. Even when it wasn't snowing, good snow tires just worked better in cold temps. And, as I said, these Michelins are not full on snow tires. But they work surprisingly well both during the summer in warm temps and during the winter in cold temps. It is impressive that they are able to make a tire do that. I will say that their strength in the snow is in forward grip, driving the car forwards, and not as much in stopping or side grip. They are still good at the other two, but their clear strength is driving forward in the snow. If you want more grip in the snow, go with two sets of tires and full on snow tires. Then you can have summer tires for when it isn't cold and / or snowing. A full on summer tire should deliver more dry grip and more precise handling. But as with most things, it is a compromise. It is hard to have it all. These Michelins are pretty close, though. That said, where you live snow grip may not be important at all.

An update on those Durakool DG82-2011-36-1012-DR. I bought some of those Durakool Relay to try, and they just keep on blowing fuses . I insert it on the number 5 relay location (fuel pump/ coils/ injectors) and when I turn on the ignition, the fuel pump did not prime because somehow the ECU fuse has blown. If anyone got any clues as to why this happened will be much appericated!!