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Raise the bike on the forks, CHOPPER . Cheers Tom. (sorry)

Doesn't sound like the battery then Usual check on the Alternator is to measure the output wire with a multimeter set to AC Volts Figures are in the manual I believe, if the same as the Sporti they are 15 V AC @ 1k RPM 40 V AC @ 3k RPM 80 V AC @ 6k RPM I'm not ruling it out but still leaning toward something amiss in the system wiring or the Reg/Rec One other thing that intrigued me, it looked like the Reg/Rec was for a 3 phase Alternator, that's fine its just 2 of the phases aren't used. Oh and the manual also has current figures for the system, looks like it's meant to max out at a little over 27A Where's @Kiwi_Roy when you need him?

This pic must be a gag! I practiced as a nurse for 45 years, started out in in a busy K.C. trauma E.R. How are you infusing what i assume is grease via clear plastic tubing into the U-joint? Not!?

The alternator rotor of the V11 is crank driven inside its "stator", no belt.

Plus enough hammers and a Kennedy machinist chest to make us brothers!

Thanks @Weegie, I'll reference your numbers and do this again. 15 V AC @ 1k RPM 40 V AC @ 3k RPM 80 V AC @ 6k RPM

Sorry fellows…losing the plot, ignore first wiring draft…both added red wires attach to positive battery terminal. Might have been on this job too long…!

All a person has to do is take the whole apart and those zertks are really easy to get to.

That was the problem on my V35 Imola. It has a Bosch alternator originally, not the Ducati one, but anyway... I didn't actually have battery problems, but noticed that the charge light came on at higher revs. Seems like the problem was, the surface on the rotor that the brushes run on was a bit out of round, and maybe the springs behind the brushes a bit long in the tooth. Result: at higher revs the brushes started to float and loose contact. A new Bosch rotor would have been fairly cheap, but I bought a very expensive one from Silent Hektik to match the electronic ignition from them that was already in there. Not sensible, but I had the money at the time...

Don't try and save it. It's degraded all the way along, and the other end is likely to be not far off the state of the end in the picture. I bought one about a year ago, so they are available. I think I got mine from Stein-Dinse. If I remember rightly, I also found a cheaper one there, but was strongly advised by knowledgable and experienced people to get the expensive one, or plan on replacing it again in a couple of years. It's a bit of a pain to get to, so I bought the expensive one. If Stein-Dinse has it, I expect that the better suppliers in the USA would also have them. https://www.stein-dinse.com/en/item-1-1116274.html

Can't get enough hammers and screwdrivers!

Ok, a few shots of the carcass. i've removed as much as i think is necessary to begin the deep cleaning which i'll start this weekend. Docc's to do list when the rear end's off is printed and on the work bench. Thank goodness i guess that i've got February through April to get things back together. I'm looking forward to the new Road 6's and the Mistral satin round muffs were shipped today from MGC. Not sure how i'm going to freshen up the cosmetic damage from being the neglect of put away salty wet, something to think about and i welcome your suggestions. At least when i'm done, i'm not going to have a show bike that i have to keep in spit and polish condition.

Ok, more pics. I think i've dismantled, loosened or freed up about as much as i think needs 2b done to deep clean, inspect and service what's needed. Looking out my shop window past the pile 'o LeMans parts, it's snowing, 8ºF here in Laporte, Colorado, but i'm warm in my cozy little shop. Bring it on!

@4corsa I read all the narrative; This bike, in particular the engine has been heavily modified. I quote: If you are a very handy mechanic, or have access to someone who has a good command on Guzzi, you may go for it. The problem, when you have something which is not stock, you have no written guidelines should something go wrong. You can also see that he has modified the frame for racing. This also maybe cause for concern. If I was in the market for one, I would get somebody with strong knowledge to make an assessment. Such as the guy from 46works in Japan... else, I would pass.

Hmmm, so I didn't consider changing the rotor. I did clean it a bit, before reassembling the new stator, looked good. I did fully change the battery (lithium), and it's been sitting on the bench for three days, let me go measure now… 13.43.

I'm not quite sure I understand, you state poor charge then say a 30A breaker is tripping often? I'm unaware of this mod but guessing it's replacing fuse 3 on the output from the charge circuit to the battery. If it's tripping at 30A then sounds to me like the Alternator is doing its job, but system voltage isn't rising above 13.0 V. Could be a short, but I'd have thought you'd find that quickly either through blown fuses or smoke. Obvious start fully charge the battery with an exeternal charger then let it rest for a few hours and check the float voltage. Battery acts like an accumulator (or resevoir), if its voltage is low it can drag down system voltage and although a long shot it wouldn't be the first new battery that's been found defective Next thing after that would be to check battery voltage not being dragged down by parasitic load or small leakage. So the battery is low when you set out and will take time to rise in voltage. I'd also shoot a mail to Electrosport and ask them what the RR output voltage is set to as well, 13.0 volts sounds a tad low to me too, I'd think 13.5-14.0 volts is where it should be. It isn't catastrophic IMHO but is a bit low. EDIT Just to add I'm ASS-uming the rectifier ground/earth/chassis is good and of course battery ground, poor grounding usually results in higher system volts AFAIK, but it may be worth checking. Brighter minds will chip in soon (I hope)

If you are ever interested in having a record of your mileage and expenses, if you can be bothered to keep tabs, I recommend that you use the Triplog App. on your phone. I use the free version of the App, and for the first time this year, they sent me a report, to encourage me to subscribe. The main purpose of this application is to record trips and expenses that could be used when you do your federal taxes. I only record the trips I make when I do the Motorcycle Grand Tour of Texas, and because it is the unpaid version, I have to start and stop the trips manually in the app. Which is not a big problem. I only log the fuel, but you could also input all the other charges if you were interested in finding out how much you spend on a particular outing.

Bike 3 and 4 on his page, both worlds, NICE. Cheers Tom.

Well it is, but I'm happy to have the confirmation.

You have traced the battery ground cable to the transmission case and cleaned/tightened it?

Thanks Docc...I stand corrected!

I forgot to tell you; I checked the prices of same year (1977) motorcycles, currently for sale in Europe. Now, as you know, it is not easy to compare as the USA is its own ecosystem. Now, all the Le Mans 850 around that millesime are well above the 10,000 mark; I found one completely stock in UK with a ask price of 18,000 GBP. Given that his bike has been modified, I would say 10,000 is probably the ceiling.

Is relay 2 still in the relay gang ? r1 start r2 headlight r3 sidestand r4 ECU r5 injection and are ALL fuses in place and are good ? As mentioned earlier , pin 86 (normally) goes to ground , ,pin 85 to switch , pin 30 to b+ and pin 87 to headlamp dim or bright . You are using two relays for this purpose . If this is wired into the factory wiring correctly , all relays are in place and fuses are good , it should be working.

The bar switch provides positive voltage when the beam is selected I think the Lo Beam relay is wired correctly (although why he wired back to the battery on the coil side seems OTT) The Hi Beam has a Positive from the battery (85) and (86) is wired to the bar switch, this where things go awry and probably accounts for the wierd behaviour of the beams with ignition Off. The battery will be backfeeding positive voltage into the switch (it won't do any harm but probably result in wierd behavour). The Hi Beam Green wire to (85) should be connected to battery negative I apologise to @audiomick if that's what he stated in the previous posts, I just couldn't understand, which says more about me than him You could wait for another member to confirm, no harm on a second opinion

@Tennitragic Beauty mate, that's exactly what I thought you'd find (at least, the second picure is.. ) The green wire from battery minus to the one pin 85 is definitely wrong. It is electrically wrong, and explains why you are seeing 13V with ignition off on the 86 of that relay, which shouldn't be the case. When you take that green wire off the positive, I'm confindent that you could hold it to the minus and see what your lights are doing then. I reckon they should work normally. As I mentioned further up, there would still remain the suspicion of a high resistance short to "earth" in the wiring. That would explain "lights on with ignition off", and would provide a reason why the bloke added the new relays in the first place. If it's there, the lights would have been a bit dim. But finish off the first bit first.

Fedex, UPS and DHL all offer insurance. You simply declare the value when shipping and they will add the insurance cost to the shipping rate. And of course they all offer tracking.... What am I missing here??

Take that one green wire off the battery positive and report back . . .

Seems the relays are just not connected correctly. What if the green wire to the battery positive was removed?

Amazing, sticky tooth-mesh ("pressure angle" ) grease. Doesn't fling off the hub like my (otherwise trusted) BelRay WaterProof grease. [representative image. The squeamish should avert their eyes] . . .

This is a pic of a 1977 model for sale in the UK; brake fluid container is cylindrica.

I can see why someone would change only the stator instead of the whole alternator due to cost issues...but it doesn't make sense to me that the conclusion is that the alternator is working properly...otherwise, the battery would not be draining. If while the bike is running (not just at idle), but also at revs, and you're only seeing 13 V and not 13.5 to 14.2V, somehow the charging system is not working. Unless you have some serious chafing somewhere, that points back in my experience to a failing alternator, so even with a good stator, the charge is not developing. I'm probably wrong...but if you can't find any smoking/burnt wires or loose connections, I'd try a new alternator.

In this case , whatever you want . If you were cleaning and regreasing a roller bearing in a wheel . As CLEAN as possible and a hi-temp wheel bearing grease , w/just enough grease . You don't want too much or it will overheat .

Set the record straight. Stator=the portion of the alternator charging system that remains stationary. Rotor= the portion of the alternator charging system that rotates/spins .

Nope, That's a fail. We've had 2 failures of those. Mine and some else's. They leak, like a razor cut in the hose at the bend. Some disappointment regarding MG here as well. Had to go to O'Rielly's and kluge some universal hoses. Much cheaper too. It's not a simple task to install either. Do a search here and you'll get the full story.

GU30157400 https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=71&products_id=1186