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Congrats on the fix. Audiomick and Weegie are the Hercule Poirots of this Agatha C mystery i can't imagine trying to keep these beasts running without this forum.

Yah. It’s the Ducati permanent mag Alt. One thing I can think of is was the stator or rotor removed and the rotor not stuck into the stator as a ‘Keeper’ for any length of time? If so it’s possible it may of lost its magnetism which will hinder charging.

There's nothing to a rotor. It's just a round blob with magnets. Unless it's thrown a magnet or a magnet has migrated out and is touching the stator then there's nothing to go wrong. Why are people talking about belts and brushes? It's a V11 Sport isn't it? Phil

I had high volt readings on mine 14.8 - 15.1 @ 3000 RPM took each fuse and relay out gave a shot of Deox to them. 14 volts now

It will be VERY telling what changes when the green wire is moved from the positive to the negative battery terminal.

What was happening there is actually fairly simple. One side of the coil in the relay was getting permanent 12 V from the battery. The other side was also seeing 12V with the ignition on, when the high/low beam switch was switched to that relay. Result: no potential difference (difference in Volts) from one end of the coil to the other. It doesn't matter if it is 0V at both ends, or 12V, or even 1000V. If there is no difference, no current will flow, no magnetic field will happen, and the relay wont switch. So, no lights. With the ignition off, the coil in the relay had 12V at one end, and the other end was connected to a part of the wiring loom that wasn't connected to anything else (with the ignition switch off). If all were well, no current should have flowed, the relay shouldn't have switched, and no lights should have gone on. But the light did go on, so therefore there must be a fault in the wiring loom that lets a bit of current go back to "earth", i.e. battery minus. But as I wrote further up, that can be addressed later.

I suppose it's been mentioned that the ground should be inspected.

Owned a 2014 Norge and had it for around three years before I moved on to a Stelvio. If your leggy you might find the cockpit a little snug but these machines are much better in the twisties than what many riding acquaintance's had thought. Very good all day high speed touring tool IMHO. I did a beetle flash and left everything else factory stock. Ciao

My somewhat educated opinion is if I was buying a Norge I would rather buy the 8V version. But that is in part driven by already owning a 2V Griso. The 8V engine is not exactly the pinnacle of design engineering, but it does make more power then the older 2V engine and in a more interesting way from what I understand. It does tend to get worse fuel mileage than the 2V engine, it seems to lack the combustion efficiency of the 2V engine, so if fuel mileage is more important to you then power that could be a consideration. But for me I can't imagine wanting to ride more than 160 miles before stopping anyway. I get that some do, but I need an occasional stop, might as well be for fuel.

Now that this is fixed . Get the wiring diagram (in the back of your owner's manual and have it enlarged making a dozen copies w/6 of them 8.5 X 11 and 6 of them LARGE . You will need this for down the road . Also , go back through this forum and find ALL of Kiwi_Roy's diagrams and make copies. I think he posted maybe eight total. I have them and could not find them .or it would have been VERY helpful. Also , get relay connectors and splice them into the existing wiring . It will clean things up and make future work easy.

Reporting back….both green wires disconnected from the battery, ignition off, no high-beam! Image 1 This was a good start….! Then, both green wires were connected to battery negative as many have suggested, ignition on……success!! Image 2 All lights worked as they should do! And to check I didn’t stuff up anything else… she fired up as before! Big thank you fellows….! If any of you fine helpers are in Sydney anytime soon? …..dinner is on me! Regards, tennitragic

Bike 3 and 4 on his page, both worlds, NICE. Cheers Tom.

I think your observations are spot on. I had to add into to my relay diagram, but reached the same conclusion as you.

I so very much appreciate all of your suggestions. Thank you. I will try all of them and report back. I'm a bit delayed trying to finish a bit of work on my KLX250, near completed.

Picking up on the swingarm bearings... I have replaced two sets of those, and they were sealed bearings. I didn't think they could be opened up, cleaned and re-packed. And these are double-row (extra thick) bearings, so I'd be surprised if you could service both rows. But I'm open to learning if this can be done. If you decide to replace them: Removal... an electric heat gun is useless here. You will need a proper torch and a heavy slide hammer with the swingarm well secured. You can probably borrow/rent a slide hammer from an auto parts store (especially if you buy a pair of bearings from them). And for putting them back in - freeze the bearings (in a zip lock bag to prevent moisture from getting in), heat the swingarm with the aforementioned torch. Grease it all up, and pound them in with a proper bearing installation tool - or just take it to a machine shop and have them pressed in.

@Tennitragic as I was chopping up stuff for the soup in the kitchen just now, your problem was still going round in my head. And a blaringly obvious question popped up that should have occurred to me at least hours ago, if not days: How much fuel is in the tank? If it is low enough that the fuel light is on, then all questions are answered and the case is closed.

This is the sad truth, that financial investors takes control and only manage companies to make as much money as possible, not caring for any other aspects. It seems that one of the major KTM US creditor, Whitebox Advisor LLC, is not happy with the restructuration plan since KTM is trying to limit those investment funds from having too much control in the future company's management. We will have the answer on February 25th, when the plan will be revealed by the administrator.

Well it is, but I'm happy to have the confirmation.

You have traced the battery ground cable to the transmission case and cleaned/tightened it?

The alternator rotor of the V11 is crank driven inside its "stator", no belt.

It's not impossible that KTM has the same monkey on their back that other companies in the U.S. endure- or die from- Bane Capital in the U.S. stacks the board of directors with insiders who 'make poor decisions' while the big player shorts the stock and bleeds the company dry. Of course, nobody wants to put their head on the block by calling spades spades.

..as you can see, it's a real chick magnet.