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I asked mySport what she thought of this "soul" business. We had quite a session over the matter and agreed to come back to it along the creeks and over the ridges with her song echoing off the bluffs and streams.

This makes zero sense at all as probably over 2 billion vehicles worldwide are at some point on battery tenders/chargers with the batteries still connected. When you come across stuff like this you look at the overwhelming evidence in front of you and see if it aligns with the "advice" you've been given. Phil

To have a soul is to be imperfect. Imperfection, either in revulsion towards it or in attraction to it, inspires passion. Perfect bikes never change - but we do - and thus they may not always inspire. Give me something with flaws to accomodate; with flaws to work around and that will keep me engaged.

In the video, he said something about "the bike talks to me". I know what he means. I've had that with motorcycles, and also with musical instruments, even instruments that I can't play. I pick them up, and they want to be played. Same with bikes, you see them, touch them, and they say "when can we go for a ride?". I don't know if that is really "soul", or my subjective impression, but some things, when they are really good, do seem to live. PS: @activpop I have no doubt at all that the Kawasaki is a very fine motorcycle. I would be very tempted by it, but I have decided to stick to bikes with shaft drive.

How 'bout you explain the reason for your question ? We will be able to help answer you . First , check the oil level ! If the light is staying on after you start and you are concerned . unplug the wire , turn the key on and touch the wire to ground , the light should go out. These are a n.o. switch and when pressure builds it closes and the light goes out. If this works go to the next step To verify flow , remove the switch and put a bunch of shop towels over the hole and crank the engine . If oil sprays out . Get ready for the volume , it may be a squirt and it might spray onto the wall. You're on your own w/this test. If no oil comes out , maybe the oil filter has spun off . Warning , these filters come loose . So get ready . This light and your attention means everything !

Diodes 4 & 5 block reverse current flowing to the regulator, so unless the charger exceeds 200 volts, I see no reason to disconnect the battery during charging the battery while connected. I do it all the time. There is a situation where jump starting can damage a regulator of an alternator which has variable field current, like most cars. The supply vehicle regulator can see a low voltage since the connection to the flat battery causes the entire system voltage to go low. The suppling regulator raises output of the supply alternator armature current. If the jumper cables are disconnected in ths situation, then for a very short instance, the alternator output voltage spikes as the armature current settles down to a normal value. That momentary spike can damage the solid-state components in the supply vehicle regulator. The damage is at a microscopic level, and takes several weeks before the regulator totally fails. Since the V11 is disconnected at the instant of the spike, and has a permanent magnet armature, the V11 regulator cannot be harmed by jump starting. So charging a connected battery with the appropriate charger cannot harm the regulator. Jump starting can harm the V11 battery (not the regulator) if you directly connect a large 12v battery directly to the bike with heavy current cables. It is possible to exceed 150 amps charging, which can damage the bike battery.

Already, it's year since I posted about the Ulster Rally 3, on May Spring Bank Holiday 2024. Yes, there was a rather unseemly gap between the first two in 2009 and 2010 and the third, fourteen years later. Well, last year's event in the Sperrins 'area of outstanding natural beauty was excellent' and I'm having another this year, same location, same long-weekend. Andy Bogwopit has just messaged me here, so I hope he'll make it. A couple of others from England have booked, and there was a good contingent of Scottishers last year. Does anyone in Wales ride a Moto Guzzi these days? You can see info here > https://belfastguzzi.com and on various pages https://belfastguzzi.com/ulster-rally-info/ https://belfastguzzi.com/book-ticket-to-attend/ Booking form https://belfastguzzi.com/contact/ Photos from 2024 https://belfastguzzi.com/ulster-rally-24-27-may-2024/ 2009 https://belfastguzzi.com/ulster-rally-1-2009/ 2010 https://belfastguzzi.com/ulster-rally-2-2010/ Email me if you've any queries: belfastguzzi@me.com David V7 lll 'Rough" and 1200 Sport 2V plus others still waiting to be fixed.

Driving my Land Rover (I wish)

You know you are writing that on a Moto Guzzi forum, right?

Out of respect for science, I prefer to consider the character ( ) of my V11 as artificial intelligence rather than soul.

I run heavy gauge lamp cord to my speakers. Compared to fancy speaker wire, it sounds the same, and it keeps my wallet heavy gauge too.

I have a pigtail attached to all my bike batteries and it hangs out the side panel. My battery chargers all have this disconnect on the charge leads . This is where I can plug/unplug from each bike w/o any fuss and charge each battery . I get this stuff @ NAPA because it is close. The lead that is permanent has ring terminals and attaches to the battery + and - posts. hang the wire out the side of the bike making sure the seat or anything else is not going to damage the cable. There's a protective cap to cover the plug to keep out bad stuff. If your charger does not have this and you want to splice this into a charger , CHECK polarity every time you cut/splice any wires and use a voltmeter to check when you are finished . This two part wire has a slick and a lined indicator on the insulation also but just to be safe check when you are finished. The theory about disconnecting the battery when charging this bike , I will have to think about . For now , just charge as low a charge rate as you can. I have found that batteries that are completely discharged , install a fully charged battery in parallel with the charger . This allows you to charge up the discharged battery when the charger would not even read the dead battery. This saves you from throwing away a salvageable battery .

Many examples of mutual understanding between me and my California 2. Some years ago coming back from the south of Germany, the right cilinder started to rattle. Idle speed dropped, engine stalled very often. As we (Cali and I) were alone, we took it on our own speed and it said to me to find the engine speed that had the lowest rattle, use as little as possible acceleration and it would try to make it the last 250km. "It hurts, but don't make it hurt more". We made it. Over 200.000km then you hear and see all that you expect and especially what you don't expect. It also sounds a bit like a marriage🙈

I hope to come back to it next week, when the rains stop, sun comes out and temps climb. Coppa is inside for the rainy season. It likes warm and dry, so it will be Griso time. Winter isn't over yet.

Suggest adding one of these to your battery, and letting the lead out so you don't have to take the seat off each time. Connect to battery charger and you're good to go....no need to disconnect anything. I've got these installed on all of the bikes...no issues at all. It also has an inline fuse as protection. https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1C5NN0XIEKJ67&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.1kw7eVxyyt_fzzhpk3OpY72ATHCOib0l_xY4nsMR0gjCuhAAcZkWs4hCAVzqkdCEC_TwD7NETK4UyHC2vlAexvPZiEUtQi1-Gg7lUB2SfmaUIT9D_Dh24tZpHiEUJSrdRwKYrBZjev7Sd-aaGS4NSClHT3DxORHUDvx8v5sDGrD3atzaiVrlxWMJ3hP_K3l7QfMlg-pKrgdXgv6AotrKvtzfjVG4iNgspN3qYVUDWjQ.m3HNzRijFvkQVYGMAkhTlcvDSTRu1Q7DBzQ1318oLkw&dib_tag=se&keywords=battery%2Btender%2Blead&qid=1740276627&sprefix=battery%2Btender%2Blead%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-1&th=1

Because my 1200 sport runs like a charm and I don't feel the need to modify it, I decided to trade my Renault van for something completely different. A '91 Volvo 240 Super Polar. A proper swedish tank with 313.000 kms. Love it to bits! And with help from a Haynes manual very nice to tinker on.

The major issue there is, after a quick look, most of the pressure switches have no description of the thread, usually NPT, and the pressure threshold at which the light will be triggered. Thanks to Stein-Dinse, we know that the pressure switch has a M12x150 thread, even if they list it as 1,5; the SI normalize way to call it is 150, so there is no confusion for those that have the dot as a decimal separation. In any case, it means a diameter of 12 mm, with a thread pitch of 1.5 mm (1,5mm). M12 is a parallel thread, so you are going to need a washer. @Docc: so here is one drop in replacement: https://www.carbuilder.com/products/oil-pressure-warning-light-switch-m12-x-1-5-5psi?_pos=1&_sid=a72d27301&_ss=r This oil pressure warning light switch is a crucial safety component for your vehicle. It triggers the dashboard oil light when the pressure drops below 5 psi, providing a timely alert to prevent potential engine damage. Featuring an M12 x 1.5 thread and a 1/4" spade connector, it's designed for easy installation and reliable performance. Ensure the longevity and safety of your engine with this essential switch. Triggers Oil Light: Alerts you when oil pressure falls below 5 psi. M12 x 1.5 Thread: Ensures compatibility with various vehicles. 1/4" Spade Connector: Simplifies installation. Maintains Engine Safety: Helps prevent costly engine damage.

Should have added that to it. Touch the wire to the head and the light came on. w/KOEO. Attach the test light to + battery post and to the tip of the switch and light came on to prove the switch is n.c.=normally closed.

Call me wrong. The oil press. switch is n.c. as in normally closed. I turned the key on and the oil light was on. Removed the wire and the light went out.

More BELFAST, please! And thank you.

A long X ago they were selling speaker (cable) wire w/documentation of X molecules/ft of oxygen content and gold plated ends . This stuff looked like welding leads .

AGM (absorbed glass mat) is a type of VRLA (vave regulated lead acid) battery which our OEM "Spark 500"/ Hawker Odyssey PC545 is a unique example. My other (Deka) AGM batteries are not as demanding regarding charge voltage and amperage, but they don't last and perform like the Odyssey, either. I once bought a charger with an AGM function, but the voltage did not check out (not high enough) in the float ("trickle") mode and I returned it. Odyssey publishes a list of approved chargers. For those of us still using the Hawker Odyssey, "three things":

@audiomick nope missing nothing at all on operation, that's my understanding too. I'm also reading your interpretation of the OP's symtoms as correct, not unusual to become confused on how the switch functions I once experienced a short after washing my (now sold) Daytona and the low pressure light stayed on after starting, rather quickened my pulse at the time.

Oops, missed one. As I wrote that post, I caught myself writing "fuel light" every time I thought "oil light". Don't know why. Of course the oil pressure switch illuminates the oil pressure warning light, not the fuel light. As to the rest of your post, of course, if the oil light comes on during a ride, stop immediately, no question. As I was writing, I had @bullionz 's words in my mind: Which I take to mean that the oil lamp is not lighting with the ignition on but the motor not running. With the failure that way around, the light would fail to warn of a loss in pressure rather than give "fake" warnings. @gstallons : are you sure about that? Looking at the wiring diagram I have here, I would assume it is a normally closed switch that opens when pressure builds up. The oil pressure warning light gets 12V from the lighting relay, along with high/low beam, horn, brake light switches, generator and fuel lights and the tacho. After the oil pressure warning light, the connection goes through the oil pressure switch to earth. So when the switch is closed, the light will be on. Or am I missing something? I'm looking at the diagram on page 459 of this document: https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1100/V11_1999-2003_Atelier(Compil-GB-D-NL).pdf

It's all one big happy Italian family!

Unlikely, as the R/R requires a voltage reference to function and that is switched through Relay #2.

The charging wire to the battery positive from the regulator, through our nefarious 30 amp Fuse #3, is continuous and not switched. Neither is the grounding side switched, not the weedy factory ground through the harness nor any (recommended) additional ground from the regulator case to the timing chest/engine.

That warning docc is you're manufacturers typical "get out of jail free" warning. Who in their right mind is going to disconnect the battery when on a charger or even more ludicrously when they need to jump start a vehicle. What, disconnect the reg then jump start and with the engine running reconnect the reg? Phil

Surely not from a failed oil pressure switch, at least not an electrical failure thereof. If it fails, it just stops switching the oil light. As far as I know, a failure wouldn't have any direct effect on the oil pressure or system. An oil pump failure, or a failure of the device that regulates the oil pressure, may incur rapid and serious damage, and if such a failure occurs when the oil pressure switch is broken, you probably wont know it is happening until the motor seizes. So riding without a working oil pressure warning system is risky, but can't see how that alone could cause damage.

I replaced the oil pressure switch recently during 20 year maintenance project, got one from MG Cycle for about USD 12.00

Email Agositins and ask them about the header dia they are good to deal with. My bike uses std V11 Sport headers, a Stucchi crossover and Agostini mufflers and I have no tapered pipes at the crossover. May just be they wanted larger dia at the crossover and secondary pipes. Phil

As of august, 2004, @Paul Minnaert had reported four of these failures. Bad production run? Unknowable. Yet it seems that if the problem affected all of the V11 aluminum flywheels, we would have seen about two failures every year for the last twenty years.