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To clean the PCB I used Isopropyl alcohol, a very soft toothbrush and before everything dries a modest rinse with demineralized water (to move all that oxidation residue off). Then make sure the board is completely dry before testing.

But after turning it over, I noticed a bunch of oxidation connecting the traces on the board. The components close to the corner have been visibly hot because of this.

After a good clean, we can see the components have not actually been burnt, but they've been hot. I connected the board to the bike very carefully and finally, the fuelpump primes again and there is power to the coils as well. Now to stick everything back together and hope it will keep working!

Sooo guess what.. I put the ECU in the oven for an hour at 100 degrees C. Took it apart, cleaned the entire (heavily oxidated) print with Isopropyl alcohol and dried it. Connected the bare print to the loom, ignition on... > priming procedure > power to coils! Yesyesyesyes! Now to reassemble everything and hope it's not a case of 'intermittent ECU'. Will post some 2x4 pixel pictures of this endeavour as soon as possible 😁

now that was funny

It would indeed be an interesting tyre if the radius wasn't exactly half the diameter. Despite that, thanks for the explanation.

As mentioned, the typical speedo calibration I have used is based on tire diameter, not tire circumference. I would not be surprised if some tire diameter calibration software requires you to know the rolling diameter / circumference of the tire. But for our Jeep, for example, it wants to know the diameter of the tires. I have also seen some that wants to know the radius of the tire, which is generally half the diameter. I have used non-automotive speedo calibration software that used tire circumference or rolling diameter. But not for automotive applications. I would never bother re-calibrating it to account for tire wear. I am just not that neurotic. And the software I have used is not that precise. It generally only goes down to a quarter of an inch in diameter, or an eight of an inch in radius. But the reason I have used it is when replacing tires with tires of a different size. For example, my Jeep is currently running tires that are approx 4 - 5 inches larger in diameter then the original tires (from 32" tires to 37" tires). That would be, without adjusting the speedo calibration, a massive difference. In fact, it would be a large enough difference to upset the Jeeps computer. So, I re-calibrate so the Jeeps speedo reads about right and the Jeeps traction control and cruise control systems don't freak out. There are times when I have sort of measured the rolling diameter of the tires, for example to confirm the axle gear ratio. Rolling the tire exactly one rotation and measuring how many rotations of the drive shaft in the one rotation of the tire will tell you what the gear ratio is in the axle. That is probably not of use to most people, but if you have a Jeep and you want to know or confirm what gear ratio you have in the axles (or even that the front and rear axles have the same ratio) there is not an easier but more accurate way. But to how measuring tire size is relevent to this thread, the question originally came up not for calibrating speedo's or anything like that. It was about how most tires are not exactly the size listed on the tires sidewall but rather most tires are to some degree or another smaller then the listed size. And some tires / brands tend to run more smaller then others. Like BFG KO2's, they tend to run upwards of an inch and a half smaller then the listed size (a 35" KO2 tends to actually be around 33.5" in diameter). And since Scud had measured his KO3's I was comparing their actual size to the listed size to see if they also run as small. From what Scud measured, the new KO3 does not seem to run as small as the KO2 it replaces.

Lisle Tools 60630: White Relay Test Jumper - JEGS This relay test jumper should be in EVERYONE's tool bag / tool box !

I hope this works . click on the above link

spanner sockets | McMaster-Carr

All of a sudden I'm seeing lots of V11's for sale. Signs of spring... Here is a Houston Ballabio with under 2k miles. Looks very clean. $8900 and it's yours. Should be some wiggle room there.

I will post it in the a.m. Now , I buy the majority of tools from SnapOn so I am used to absurd prices BUT .

In my past life, in the world of "finance" we cleverly said of this sort of "shell game": "The LARGE PRINT giveth, while the small print taketh away."

@68C As a European from France, I will share what has always been my most puzzling experience here. None of the price shown to you includes Tax and/or fees. In the whole of Europe, and the UK, the price shown to you is the price you pay, in that it includes VAT. This is never the case here. I was once explained that the rationale is that taxes vary per state, city and so on. But my local supermarket does not include taxes either. Why not? Something you also need to be wary about: tips! with the contactless payments, came the flip tablets, which impose you to select a tip percent before you can complete the transaction; even when there is no service provided, such as you purchasing something that is given to you over a counter, or even better, when you do all the work yourself. I am just back from Orlando Florida, the home of Mickey, and I discovered a new one: the no tip option altogether missing. It felt a little bit like extortion. Can you picture going to your supermarket, filling up your cart, and at the check-out, you are presented with a tip percent selection with no opt-out? Are you renting a car?

Without wanting to discount intrusion, I reckon it is plausible that it might (also) be condensation. The air inside the box becomes humid it warms up from the warmth of the componentry. When it is all turned of, the casing starts to cool down, causing conensation inside the box. I'm not sure how likely it is in this case, but as I said, plausible, I reckon. The described phenomenum is a big issue with sound systems at open-air events. The solution is generally to leave everything on all the way through. I heard a story from some colleagues that they had switched off the mixing desk at the end of the evening (a Midas XL3, a large analogue console...) and the next morning there was "a litre" of water inside.

Yep ! I though I remembered techs using vinegar to remove damage from D-cell battery leakage but I can't remember. Back in the mid 90s-2002 Ford p-ups would leak water through the windshield and drop onto the GEM / fuse box and cause ALL kinds of problems . You would tear into them and they would look 1000Xs worse than this . This is of course damage from water intrusion . Try to reseal as good as possible when going back together.

I hope this serves someone in the future, as the forum has served me for years. After removal of the ECU lid we see a nice clean print:

I have been a naughty boy and took the ECU apart. I'll start with a much needed cleaning and then hope we have some PCB experts here that know what components have been fried due to oxidation between the traces. Once again: I greatly appreciate all the help!

Ahhh. type in drop box in the search area (upper right portion) and it will show a compilation of drawings that Weegie compiled. Print all these off and use / keep them for when you need them .

Maybe there is a diagram on this Forum Kiwi_Roy had posted: V11 Sport ECU Test Point Layout dated May 12 2010. It has all wiring to the ECU and it's purpose . If you can't locate it , I have it in my paper library , I can take a pic and text it to you .

It was running great at the first startup after winter. One week later I'm getting ready for my first actual ride of the year, no fuel and spark. Bike has not moved an inch in between. I may have to start a seperate topic alltogether. As far as I know, all IAW 15M ECU's are interchangeable, as long as you put the V11 software / mapping on it (which I can't, because I hate programming stuff). But if that's true I can get a Ducati 15M ECU for small change, in stead of the exact right V11 one for a sh*tload of money.. And then find someone that can flash a V11 map on it.

I forgot to ask , how long has this been a no-start ? .I hope you have the wiring diagram for the bike. there are a few differences through the years. I have replaced ECMs on automobiles through the years and the ones I was sure were bad turned out to be good and the ones I was unsure of were the bad ones . Take your time testing everything to be sure of powers / grounds and all the inputs . Make sure nothing caused this failure. Since the fuel pump "on" is the first thing to be activated , I am going to say the ecu is at fault.

a technique I'm not altogether opposed to, considering how our "tipped" employees are treated at income tax time. Just realize they are only asking...It's a convenience for some, annoyance for others (me).. if you think it's not appropriate, don't pay it. There is always a way around it. Stand your ground.

Can you post the McMaster-Carr links to these tools?

I am working up an order on McMaster/Carr and they sell these sockets . I was going to get one for the future .

And kilometres are much more fun than miles.

Here's a bunch of home made Guzzi/Ducati tools except for the blue one and the deep socket black one. I "think" the ring nut one is the chrome 4 prong one. It's 1 and 1/8 inch and a but rough I'll admit but a lot of these were pre milling machine home made. They only need to do the job once a lot of the time so practicality overrides looks and longevity. Phil