JRD

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Our golden retriever is a seven year old retired therapy dog that gets bathed and groomed every month. Sometimes I think my wife worries about him more than me. I know he gets treated better. Hope she doesn't read this!!

Wow, scarry!!! Keyboard uses metal framed carriers with rollers. They roll your bike onto the carrier, tie it down, step on a lever which lowers the rollers there-by raising the carrier. Wheel the carrier and bike onto the trailer lift gate and into the trailer where the entire package is anchored down. They have my vote for any future shipping!

Bill, just to show you what a good...no no make that GREAT friend I am, you can leave your bike with me. I promise I will take good care of it!!! Honest, you can trust me!

Hi Bill- From Fl to Wi?! Better change from AC Tech to Heating and Frost Bite Specialist. I used Key Board when I had my LeMans shipped from Houston to Clearwater. I found the rates to be very competitive and the guys were very professional. Bike was insured for $18K with $0.00 deductible included in the shipping fee. Shoot me a text and I can give you what I paid door to door. Highly recommended. Jerry

Steve- I really like you exhaust hangers. Did you have them custom made or did you source them from a vendor?

Just made my reservation, got the basic room. Unfortunately they are not pet friendly (but they still let us Guzzi riders in?) so not sure if my wife will be joining us. Hopefully we can find a dog sitter or I will be attending alone. Looking forward to the ride! Jerry

Dangerous- Thank you sir, you just put a big smile on my face! I had an '81 Deluxe that showed 42,000 miles on it when I bought it. Nic named it "the turtle" because of the shape and color of the tank and incredible speeds it was capable of :-P. Rode a lot better after I took the 35 lbs of fairing and assorted brackets off the front but the "air assisted "front forks" always leaked and the rear shocks didn't. Reminded me of riding a pogo stick. But that was part of the personality of these bikes and what makes owning them fun. Ran the ever living snot out of it and had a blast with it. But, as you mentioned, the cam chains were noted for wearing and chewing up the bolts next to them, cam chain tensioners went thru 3 or 4 design changes, stators burned out, and the water pump seal would self destruct. And lets not forget the CDI ignitions that ran out of spark. I was fortunate that in the time I owned mine the cam chain adjuster was at its final limit and didn't let go. What never ceases to amaze me is how many bikes are able to run trouble free for umpteen thousands of miles with little or no maintenance done and others that are serviced on a routine basis end up in scrap piles for used parts. I can understand how Polebridge has become frustrated after buying what he thought was a good bike, and I believe it still is, only to be told he might need to dump several thousand hard earned dollars into it. From what he has indicated in his post I feel he is very capable of determining what is causing the clutch drag problem and repairing it himself. He jus needs to do it systematically. Start at the top at work his way down. Sorry to hijack the post I just hope Polebridge doesn't give up on the Guzzi brand gets his bike sorted.

Polebridge- Just curious if you have had time to check the master cylinder and slave cylinder out as Docc suggested? I am a really big fan of starting a project by replacing/rebuilding the cheap and simple stuff first. Please don't get annoyed and or frustrated with the bike. Having worked as a bike mechanic for several major brands, I don't care what brand the bike is, they are all a pain in the ass! Have you ever tried repairing the electric start engage spring on a relatively simple Yamaha XS650? Yea, let's mount the starter motor under the engine all the way in the back to make it almost impossible to get at or work on. Or worse yet, the starter motors on the Virago series. Try replacing leaky push rod tube seals on a BMW boxer? Another one that comes to mind is the Honda CX500. They like to call themselves water cooled versions of the Guzzi. But I don't recall any Guzzi with a reputation for eating cam chains, and self destructing cooling fans that are attached to the end of the cam shafts. And those clutches aren't any easier to get at. Don't get me wrong, these bikes were all great back in the day, but each one just like newer bikes have potential weak points when it comes working on them. Good luck with your bike and please keep us posted. Jerry

Bob- it sounds to me like you need a longer piece of the cone shaped rubber portion of the mount under the "crowned stem head nut". If you can no longer use the cone shaped rubber provided in the kit, try a piece of 5/16" dia. fuel line hose aprox. 3/4"-1" long under the crown stem head nut and above the black plastic locking washer. That should take up the space needed to tighten the assembly. I hand tightened the entire assembly prior to installing it into the stem head tube, THEN installed it into the stem tube. This required using channel locks to carefully tighten the stem crown nut. After tightening the pinch bolts on the triple clamp I positioned the RAM ball mount where I wanted it and used the small allen head wrench to finish tightening the assembly. Hope this helps. Jerry

Mike- with only 15K miles on the bike unless it has been abused from constant slipping in start/stop traffic, drag race launches, etc., I would think your clutch has many more miles of service left in it. I might be wrong on this but, if the clutch is slipping allowing the engine to rev higher without accelerating any faster, that is a sign of a worn clutch. Yours is doing just the opposite. These bike have "dry" clutches therefore will make all kinds of strange noises compared to Japanese bikes with "wet clutches". Have you ever listened to a Ducati?!!! Sure sounds to me that your problem can be fixed with an adjustment that you may be able to do yourself. Research this forum in the "How to" section I am sure somewhere in there it describes the clutch adjustment procedures. Also check "this old tractor.com" for directions. Hopefully others with more experience working on these bikes will chime in shortly with additional suggestions. Labor cost at dealer bike shops in the Tampa Bay area are near $100.00 per/hr. so even at that rate I don't think it should take 10 hours to perform a clutch diagnosis and adjustment. Good luck and keep us posted. Jerry

Scud- I am no expert by any stretch but those really sound like low pressure readings. I was also told "10 lbs. psi per 1,000 RPM". Its ironic that you are posting this as there is a similar thread on one of the British bike forums regarding low oil pressure after warm up. Several experienced members suggested checking the oil pressure relief valve and also the lower end bearings. One other point to consider, how accurate is the oil pressure gauge you installed? Good luck and keep us posted. Jerry

Scud- Once again, great work, thanks so much for posting the details of your projects!

Docc- you have to stop trying to twist the throttle 360 degrees, they just aren't made to maintain that kind of stress !!!!!

Jet- I was able to gently pry the center cap off the steering stem nut using a very small screw driver. I then loosened the socket head screws on the right of the stem. This allowed me to remove the stem head nut. I then assembled the mount bracket assembly using the long screw provided and re-installed the stem head nut onto the steering stem. After centering the mount bracket I tightened everything down. The whole job took less than one hour. Jerry

Cant get the photos to upload but here are the part numbers for the items I used to mount my gps: 1- RAM B 342U - Handlebar mount kit (actually uses long screw and hardware to mount to steering stem nut) 2- RAM B 238 - Diamond base w/ 1" ball - needed to connect mounting arm to gps cradle 3- RAM B 201U A - Short double socket arm for 1" dia. mount balls - you can use a longer socket arm depending on the size and where you wish to position the gps or device You will also need an appropriate cradle for your particular brand/make and model gps. Be advised RAM uses 1" munt balls which are not compatible with other brand cradle mounts. You will also need the appropriate power cord for your particular brand gps. I wired mine into the pilot light on the headlight using the yellow and black wires. This will turn the power off to the unit when the ignition is switched "off". I plan on making a cover for the plug of the power source cable to prevent it from shorting out against metal objects when it is not plugged into the gps and the ignition is "on". Feel free to send me a PM and I will gladly text you the photos of mine. Hope this helps Jerry http://rs36.pbsrc.com/albums/e22/jdavis10291/0622151358a%20gps%20mount_zpsbcucimvh.jpg~c200?t=1435264389

Kiwi Roy- That's what I just did. Bought the kit off Amazon #x0006PUVQD which mounts on the steering head nut. Also bought the RAM mount attachments so the GPS is mounted more towards the center between the gauges but still allows access to the ignition key. I will try to get the photos uploaded here in a few.

Looking for a set of mounting racks, either just the side or complete rack with back rest to mount a set of Hepco Becker 40L hard bags to my '02 LeMans. I already have the set of Hard bags. OK, I admit I am a cheap bastard and just cant see paying the breath taking, heart stopping $500.00 for a new set. There must be someone here in the states with a set laying around not being used and just collecting dust/rust. Jerry This ad can be removed, I found a set, thank you very much guys

Rossi-If the engine will turn over but wont start it can only be two things, 1- no sparkie, electrical, or, 2- no chianti (gas). I always carry a spare set of spark plugs. Take your old plugs out, re-insert them into the plug leads and rest it securely against the cylinder head. Push the starter button and see if the plug is sparking. Do the same on the other cylinder. If the plugs are all wet, black and sooty, an indication it was getting gas, they may just be fouled. Try the new set of plugs against the cylinder heads. If your getting spark that pretty much eliminates an ignition problem that you can deal with on the roadside. Just install the new plugs and it should start. If no spark with the new plugs, you may have a dead coil or relay. If your lucky just a loose wire somewhere which will probably be up under the tank, probably where you cant get to it without disassembling half the bike on the side of the road. If your plugs were dry and getting spark, next step is check for fuel delivery. Here is very good suggestion, DONT BE SMOKING DURING THIS STEP!!! I would start at the injector or throttle body, somewhere that is easy to get too, disconnect the fuel line and once again, turn the ignition on and see if your getting gas to the T/B. If you can hear the fuel pump but aren't getting gas to the throttle body, check the wires to the petcock. The electrical petcocks are known to fail and many have been replaced with manual units. If the fuel pump isn't coming on start checking your fuses and relays. Occasionally something like a crank position sensor might go bad but if its getting spark and gas, it will probably start. I would go thru these steps along with what Kiwi Roy posted before resorting tot he dreaded phone call for help. Docc has a great thread here somewhere on the assortment of paraphernalia he carries whenever he leaves home. Tell Luigi and the boys we said hi. Jerry

Fotoguzzi- ummm....err, what is that long black tube protruding from the right bar and over the speedo?

A large hammer and chisel will certainly be an effective way to disconnect the synchronization rod ball joint from the throttle body. However, that may be a bit of over kill. I found it easier to remove the side covers and airbox to get better access to the T/B boots. The air box to T/B boots are no problem but the T/B to engine are a pain as there is a bracket between the two T/B's. Depending on how Luigi routed all the wires and hoses, you might be able to slide the T/B's back just enough to remove and replace the forward boots. That is also the best time to clean the T/B's so you can get the spray everywhere inside them. Be sure and remove the air fuel mixture screws when your cleaning everything. Count how many turns in before you remove them. This will help when you get it all back together and try to restart the engine. To clean my throttle bodies Czakky and I went through two cans of spray carb cleaner and couldn't believe the crud and carbon deposits that came out. I had to clean mine a second time, and more pieces of crud came out looking like dried varnish, and this is on a bike with only 3,000 showing on the clock. With your bike being parked in New Jersey, who know what creatures have taken up residence in yours. I did this while the T/B's were still connected with the bracket. Also, unless you really like a crinkle paint finish, I recommend removing the starter motor cover as the carb cleaner can dissolve the paint. Ask me how I know! Once again, be patient and take your time, the bike will thank you when your done. Jerry

Delman-My '02 LM came with the bar risers pictured above and I love them. I am 5'9" with a 32" sleeve length and the risers are very comfortable for me. I am still close enough to get the protection offered by the fairing but not so upright that the wind beats me senseless. The only drawback to the risers is you may need longer clutch and brake hoses, the throttle cable is long enough, you just need to re-route it as shown in the photo. Also, my controls hit the fairing when I turn the forks to the locks but I am sure this is just a matter of some minor adjustment. They felt good in the current position so I haven't done any adjustments. I have done several rides in excess of two hundred miles with now aches or pains. If you don't want to go with the risers, have you checked out the different height clip-on bars by Tarrozzi, just an option? Hope this helps---- Jerry

If all goes well I plan on attending the event, it will be my first time. Can someone please post the address where everyone stays so I can get my reservation in early. Tanx Jerry

Skeeve- Regarding the BMW, I bought a 1980 R100T and put several thousand miles on it last summer. It was a nice bike, very comfortable and plenty of power for one or two up riding but never really did anything for me so I sold it. When it came time to adjust the valves I found a You Tube series with various "how to videos" describing maintenance procedures. It also describes issues comparing the older model airheads like mine to the newer model oilheads. Many of the so called "improvements" were anything but. In particular the newer designs of the clutches which apparently need frequent repair/replacement depending on use. As I recall there have been several factory recalls on the various models so do your research. For the Aprilia's, the Rotax powered v-twins are very dependable, almost bullet proof. Most of the bugs were worked out and require very little maintenance. The v-twin is basically the same engine used in the Can-Ams which is comforting when on long trips. They also have a great website, (AF-1), and like this forum, have many knowledgeable members with tons of experience both racing and touring the different models. Probably a good comparison to the TL1000 both being liquid cooled. My LeMans just gives me "that thrill" every time I push the start button. It does everything I ask of it with very little fuss. Plenty of power, comfortable ride, good handling and I can do much if not most of the maintenance myself, and I don't have to worry about seeing one on every corner. Hope this helps, good luck with your choice.

Delman- Another inexpensive "modification" I would recommend is insulating the fuel lines. When I removed my fuel tank I discovered my main fuel line was practically resting on the left cylinder head. Pre-heating the fuel in Norway might be a good idea but not so much in sunny, hot and humid Florida. I purchased two packages of fuel line insulation sleeves from a high performance automotive shop. It comes in different diameters, (1/2",3/4" and 1")with a fiberglass weave type fabric on the inside with an aluminum material on the outside. It is very flexible and easily slide on over the fuel line. I used one sleeve over the fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump and the other sleeve from the fuel pump to the filter, and filter to the throttle body. Not sure if it is totally necessary but I thought it would be cheap insurance against vapor lock. I think it was about $18.00 for both sleeves. If you PM me your phone number I will be glad to text you pictures how mine came out. Jerry

Delman- I purchased an '02 LeMans in January which had super low mileage,(3,000)and at first, it ran great. However, it started acting up very similar to your symptoms, hiccups, rough idle and almost stalling at traffic lights. After adjusting the valves, (.006 Intake/.008 exhaust), I followed the tutorial, cleaned and adjusted the TPS and balanced the throttle bodies. While I was at it I removed the air filter boots so I could look inside the throttle bodies. I couldn't believe the amount of crud/carbon build up inside there for such a low mileage bike! Took the air fuel screws out and used two cans of carb cleaner to flush everything out. It looked like small pieces of varnish were coming out. I also replaced the fuel filter, figured if my throttle bodies were clogged up, there was a good chance the filter had collected crud also, and my filter had a small leak. Put everything back together and now it runs great. Use patience, follow the tutorial and approach it systematically one step at a time, you'll get it running correctly. Scud recently post a step by step tune-up procedure on "Sorting a Multiple Owner LM". And don't hesitate to ask for help here, The members have been fantastic. Jerry