MartyNZ

Diodes 4 & 5 block reverse current flowing to the regulator, so unless the charger exceeds 200 volts, I see no reason to disconnect the battery during charging the battery while connected. I do it all the time. There is a situation where jump starting can damage a regulator of an alternator which has variable field current, like most cars. The supply vehicle regulator can see a low voltage since the connection to the flat battery causes the entire system voltage to go low. The suppling regulator raises output of the supply alternator armature current. If the jumper cables are disconnected in ths situation, then for a very short instance, the alternator output voltage spikes as the armature current settles down to a normal value. That momentary spike can damage the solid-state components in the supply vehicle regulator. The damage is at a microscopic level, and takes several weeks before the regulator totally fails. Since the V11 is disconnected at the instant of the spike, and has a permanent magnet armature, the V11 regulator cannot be harmed by jump starting. So charging a connected battery with the appropriate charger cannot harm the regulator. Jump starting can harm the V11 battery (not the regulator) if you directly connect a large 12v battery directly to the bike with heavy current cables. It is possible to exceed 150 amps charging, which can damage the bike battery.

Attached are some extracts from an A320 FCOM. Depending on hardware config and software version, the CRJ is likely to be similar. As the aircraft is on final approach, TCAS RAs are inhibited/downgraded to TAs if windshear alert, stall warning, GPWS alert, are given, or aircraft is below 1000ft. Experts have determined that ignoring windshear alert, stall warning, or GPWS alert are more likely to have a bad outcome, than downgrading a Resolution Advisory to a Traffic Advisory. Also, the flight crew don't need to be annoyed by RA alerts caused by aircraft landing on a parallel runway. TAU = Time to intercept, the ratio between the distance that separates both aircraft, and the sum of their speed. AGL = Above Ground Level. GPWS = Ground Proximity Warning System.

Here's the picture to go with Phil's comment.

You can paint the old cover. On mine I needed to fill and sand the pock marks caused by road grime, then you can do a good paint job with a rattle can. If you can't find or afford the eagle badge on the cover, then no one will notice that it is missing.

Well, yes it is for most countries. Even the British who invented pounds, feet, hogsheads, barleycorns and leagues have largely abandoned the Imperial units and adopted metric. I was in a Boeing class on aircraft structures, and I asked the instructor if Boeing would ever adopt the metric system like Airbus, ATR, Embraer, Comac, Fokker, Antonov did. He said "the US system will gradually be adopted by the rest of the world". He seemed dismayed when I told him that there is only 3 countries that have not adopted metric. Or is it 2 now?

...and make extra certain that the regulator is well grounded.

Molly, have you read this? https://www.onthrottle.co.nz/post/nz-s-mandatory-motorcycle-abs-what-is-exempt-and-what-isn-t There are possible ways to avoid the NZ ABS requirements. 12 months ownership, or no ABS V11s were ever made.

I drilled half of the pucks in my bike back in Mar 2018. Six drilled pucks, with the remaining cavities empty. The difference was barely noticeable, but I liked the idea of lowered shock loads on splines/gears/dogs. I have not felt the need to revert to standard over the last 6 years. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/30472-rear-wheel-for-tire-change/#findComment-286089

I left out the most important dimension, sorry about that. The conical face at the tip of the plunger is the fuel seal face, so it shouldn't be touched. The slot can be the length 1mm from the edge of the cone to at least 5mm from the o-ring groove. The slot width should be wide enough to allow the anti-rotation screw to slide freely.

Henkel make LocTite, and give good advice on product selection, depending on load, gap filling needs, and temperature. Retaining solutions | Henkel Adhesives I have an old pre-modification plate I can measure for you if you need to confirm protrusion and spacing of the posts.

Harper's is listing the kit to upgrade earlier V11 6 speed gearboxes.

If the post for the lower gear selector cam is loose in the side plate, it explains why later gearboxes have a reinforcing "banana plate". If the post is loose, I suggest pushing it out, degreasing it and reassembling with epoxy in the joint. It's important that the height of the post is maintained. Or you could find a later side plate. It bolts up in exactly the same way as the earlier plate.. Later plate has longer posts and a reinforcing banana plate.

I think that those relays are barely up to the job, and should be regarded as consumables. I fit new ones at the same time as spark plugs, and I make sure to throw the old ones out, not keep them as spares. Then I put a set of new spares in the monkey paw trap behind the seat. For a lazy person like me, it's much quicker to change a set of relays than troubleshoot a fault.

A science based report on this: https://www.nbcnews.com/science/environment/science-florida-hurricane-ravaged-north-carolina-rcna173256 If you don't have an electric car in your garage and solar panels on your roof, then you contributed to this climate change.

The seals in the end-caps, and the o-rings on the outside of the end-caps are the only ones that matter. You can reuse the others if they look OK. That's because most people have the damper set to it's lowest damping setting, so internal leakage is unimportant. What is important is assembly with no air bubbles, and no external leaks. Watch the orientation of the seals in the end caps. Oh, and if you take the mount block off to paint the body (a wood.wedge will open the block enough) then measure it's location. If you try to slide the block as you install it, you damage your nice paint. I know someone with the same name as me did that.