MartyNZ

Henkel make LocTite, and give good advice on product selection, depending on load, gap filling needs, and temperature. Retaining solutions | Henkel Adhesives I have an old pre-modification plate I can measure for you if you need to confirm protrusion and spacing of the posts.

Harper's is listing the kit to upgrade earlier V11 6 speed gearboxes.

If the post for the lower gear selector cam is loose in the side plate, it explains why later gearboxes have a reinforcing "banana plate". If the post is loose, I suggest pushing it out, degreasing it and reassembling with epoxy in the joint. It's important that the height of the post is maintained. Or you could find a later side plate. It bolts up in exactly the same way as the earlier plate.. Later plate has longer posts and a reinforcing banana plate.

I think that those relays are barely up to the job, and should be regarded as consumables. I fit new ones at the same time as spark plugs, and I make sure to throw the old ones out, not keep them as spares. Then I put a set of new spares in the monkey paw trap behind the seat. For a lazy person like me, it's much quicker to change a set of relays than troubleshoot a fault.

A science based report on this: https://www.nbcnews.com/science/environment/science-florida-hurricane-ravaged-north-carolina-rcna173256 If you don't have an electric car in your garage and solar panels on your roof, then you contributed to this climate change.

The seals in the end-caps, and the o-rings on the outside of the end-caps are the only ones that matter. You can reuse the others if they look OK. That's because most people have the damper set to it's lowest damping setting, so internal leakage is unimportant. What is important is assembly with no air bubbles, and no external leaks. Watch the orientation of the seals in the end caps. Oh, and if you take the mount block off to paint the body (a wood.wedge will open the block enough) then measure it's location. If you try to slide the block as you install it, you damage your nice paint. I know someone with the same name as me did that.

I rebuilt my Bitubo damper. Once you have a tool to unscrew the end, it is easy to dismantle. A trip to the seal shop for o-rings and seals, some ATF fluid, and you have a cheap repair.

Those pictures seem to show the clip-on mounts for a 1999 Rosso Mandello V11. Those mount below the top yoke. P/N GU01600631 & GU01600632 or GU01600731 & GU01600732. I believe that the Le Mans normally has the clip-on mounts above the top yoke, P/N GU01600661 & GU01600761 .

If you search for "Rubber Tank Straps" or "Fuel Tank Strap Rubber Backing" you will find lots of choices. EPDM, Buna N or Nitrile material will work fine.

Keep in mind that video appears to show testing of a 3 phase generator. The V11 has a single phase generator. The advice is good, but you're only testing output from 2 yellow wires.

S means sinisterous which is Italian for left. D means dexterous which means right.

Yes.

https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/31125-help/?do=findComment&comment=299506 I measured an old TPS removed from the TB, and got 1.22KΩ. I expect the TPS resistance to be slightly higher to get 157mv. See link above. Remember that the throttle must be closed fully, which is below idle.

I think it's possible to swap the ignition coil supply leads. Could the same thing happen to the injector leads?

Also check valve clearances and TPS setting

Yes, l found a Toyota diesel got better range on 5W-30 oil than 10W-30. The manual allowed both. The local Toyota service center used 10W-30 Castrol on my Hilux, and when I changed the oil myself using 5W-30 Penrite, I found that I got an additional 100km range per tank.

Where does that nice white lamp holder come from? Mine has at least 2 previous epoxy repairs gobbed around the insert nuts.😄

The oil filter access porthole has such a fine thread on a large diameter that the risk of cross threading as you refit it is high. Better to drop the sump. Then you can properly tighten the new filter.

@cash1000 had foaming in his gearbox oil. He drained and refilled a few times before it stayed clear. We thought that it may be because of water getting into the oil, and the only path for water seemed to be the vent, which is in line with spray from the rear wheel. We both fitted a remote vent hose to avoid this. The vent plug thread is M6 x 1 mm.

Sorry, I was not local, just passing by. A Washington resident may know the bike owner. I liked the mufflers, swingarm, crossover, and stock airbox (he resisted the pod filter fashion). It would be interesting to know if there was a useful handling improvement.

A kind offer. Shipping costs from USA seem to be in the arm/leg/first born category recently. I'll keep it in mind.

Yes to both. See previous posts here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/30710-signal-indicators/?do=findComment&comment=291012

Like Tom said, Kluber Staburags NBU 30 PTM specified for BMW splines seems to work well.

It's lucky that you have a center stand on your bike, otherwise that would be really inconvenient. On my bike, I noticed that the lower bolt was slightly bent as I put it back, so I take your problem as as warning.

While you wait for a better TPS, (see Phil's suggestion) try popping the bottom off and looking for the reason why you can't get enough travel. There may be plastic molding flash, or some other rework will allow you to get back on the road. I measured the resistance of an old TPS that was worn and erratic but gives some representative figures. Top pin to mid pin: 2.65KΩ Throttle closed; 2.65KΩ Throttle open. Mid pin to bottom pin: 3.84KΩ Throttle closed; 1.22KΩ Throttle open. Top pin to bottom pin: 1.22KΩ Throttle closed; 3.92KΩ Throttle open.