MartyNZ

NW of Glendhu Bay

I use the sight glass to set the level when the bike is on the maintenance stand. When I had Redline heavy shockproof in there, it took several minutes for the level to stabilize in the window and it's really hard to hold the bike level while looking at the window. If the bike is on the side stand when you fill to the window, then I think that it is overfilled, and oil leaks become more likely. I'm not using Redline any more.

Yes, I had the same problem. It unscrews easily. Use a socket, as I think it is a plastic fitting. Cleaning is a bit awkward, as the window is only accessible through small holes. I cleaned mine by squirting WD-40 using a nozzle extension straw. Maybe @Rolf Halvorsen can offer better advice, as he has repaired gearboxes.

Pete Roper had a warning about this: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/21981-scura-build/page/4/#elControls_260340_menu

I'm going to experiment with 45-63mm reducing silicon rubber elbows. 63 is too big to fit in there but may work after trimming to fit. I like the idea of long induction pipes to help collect cool air ahead of the engine. A downward bend should reduce the road spray, grit, and bumblebees getting to the filter.

I added pictures to illustrate the remote grounding point. Not only does this move sparks away from the battery and fuel system, but it also adds a tiny resistance to the circuit to avoid large currents buckling the discharged battery plates. However I'm not convinced that there is any need to isolate the regulator. See previous topic: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20617-charging-the-battery-hooked-up-in-the-bike-bad-idea/#elControls_236544_menu

True. Well spotted. Although normally those little screw-on covers are fitted to protect against shorts. Then I always follow the golden rule: " disconnect negative first, reconnect negative last"

I did the same as Tom; added terminal blocks. A jumper goes to each battery terminal, so there are only 2 connections to each battery terminal.

When I first saw a Guzzi, I liked it's design. Two cylinders angled out into the airstream. Equal cooling on the hot side of each cylinder head. No shared cyl wall like many twins, no rear cyl running hotter like HD & Ducati. Like a BMW twin, but cooler looking, with more ground clearance. Shaft drive. Less mess and less maintenance (or so I thought then). Dry clutch. Oil on a friction surface just seems wrong to me, and oil for engines and gearboxes should be different. Those features are no longer so important in modern bikes, but I still love the character and soul of the bike. It feels alive. I took a Triumph Bonneville for a blast, and nearly died of boredom (unlike the Thruxton R). I don't feel that way on a V11. Also I like how there are not many on the road.

Maybe one of these? I think @cash1000 has one on his bike. https://tlm.nl/search-results-page?q=V11+speedo+cable

Oh yes, that would have been easier to check first.

Versailles, France?

How about giving a clue, like saying "it could be a country between Belarus and Germany"

I used black RTV on mine, but as Chuck suggested, permatex is good too. A new seal on the shifter shaft is cheap insurance.

I have had success with many different sealants, and think that clean degreased surfaces are most important before using any sealant. Nicks, bows, scratches on the surfaces need a gap filling sealant. Any RTV silicone sealant is good, though not for fuel, with the advantage of black or grey colour matching black or silver casings. Threebond 1200 series is in this group. Hylomar is good too. I recently assembled my sump spacer and oil filter unit without gaskets, using Locktite L515 flange sealant, so that the side stand bolt would fit without slotting the hole. (I had just fitted a home made baffle plate). I have used gaskets dry, and greased on one side, usually with good results. Some sealants are also adhesives, so frequently disturbed parts like rocker covers and sump would be better not glued down. Greased gaskets or hylomar are good there. BTW, putting sealant on o-rings is usually a bad idea.

I have a couple of boxes of nitrile o-rings, but no matter what, I still have to go out to the local seal shop for a specific size that I don't have. I stopped being so picky about buying OEM o-rings after a visit to Moto International in Seattle USA. I asked for seals on the fuel injectors. The parts guy grabbed an old injector from their workshop, then pulled the right size seals from an assortment box. Then I realized that Moto Guzzi would use standard sizes where possible to keep the costs down. As for FKM, yes it can be better (but more expensive) in some applications, but since I see nitrile lasting 20 years, a new nitrile seal should last another 20 years.

Are you going to rebuild back to standard, or do you have something better in mind?

I just read this: Deformed Motorcycle Fuel Tanks (deformedfueltanks.com)

Adventure Bike track

Congestion on the road from Mt Aspiring

I have thermistors of the right value if that's what you need instead of the whole receptacle/connector unit.

I had these symptoms on my '03, after the bike sitting unused for too long with the rear drive out. I replaced the 5 pin relay in the forward position, and now all good. This time I binned the relay, instead of putting it in with all the spares of doubtful function in the monkey paw trap.

True, although there's a more optimistic possibility. Moto Guzzi may wish that old V11s are scrapped, so you can buy their latest model, but if customer demand is sufficient, some aftermarket vendor will organize a fresh production run. We see this with some vintage car parts. And V11 gearbox springs. And Roper plates... Maybe soon Brembo 16mm brake master cylinder kits.

I wear a thin cotton balaclava that protects my hearing aids as I take my helmet on or off. The shoei helmet has a ruff at the sides and back of my neck, and a visor that seals well so wind roar is muted. The hearing aid receivers partially block outside noise that doesn't come via the aids, and are set to limit loud noises, so I don't use ear plugs. I probably should have when I was younger.

Some previous discussion here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/22114-front-brake-master-cylinder-rebuild/#comment-254615 You need a 16mm kit, given Phil's comments. And yes, I think a preventative rebuild is a good idea, especially if the fluid has not been changed every 2 years in the past. I found a rusty spring in my clutch MC. I haven't yet rebuild the front brake MC, so should take my own advice.