MartyNZ

Try these guys: Ducati Brembo 12mm Front Brake / Clutch Master Cylinder REM REC Seal Rebuild Kit 110436292 KTM Aprilia Moto Guzzi (gothamcycles.com) Then search in their website for Ducati Brembo Master. You need to know the diameter (eg 14mm). I presume that you are a "certified brake technician"?

Greasing. Inner race of RH outer bearing removed. The grease will protect the crown wheel nose seal area from further rust.

Grease nipple NAS501-1 installed. Final hole dia 2.91mm for tight fit on 3.26mm dia nipple. I had to buy a pack of 25 grease nipples, so I have 24 spares to give away.

Drilling from the inside to meet halfway.

Drilling from the outside

@dangerous probably had a moment like that in 2015. When I first began to look at Guzzis, DD offered me some advice. Mostly beer drinking, but there was some gems of wisdom. I asked if he would sell his Nero Corsa to me. He made a choking noise, then a lot of profanity. I took that as a "NO".

True, and not just Airbus. Completely autonomous cargo planes with no crew have already transited the Atlantic. There is an intermediate step in the development from 2 pilots to 1 pilot. That is a pilot and a dog. The pilot's job is to feed the dog, and the dog is trained to bite the pilot if he tries to touch something. (No disrespect to pilots or weather gods intended.)

Yes, many older aircraft designs using cables from the flight deck to the control surfaces had provisions in case there was a mechanical jam or breakage. The aircraft still had to be able to land safely if say the co-pilots cable run jammed. Then there would be an indication that something is wrong, such as the co-pilot not able to move his control column, and the captain using more effort. If there was dual opposing inputs, then a mechanism like a spring cartridge would allow it, but increase the effort for both. This is not unique to the B767, but is not possible on more modern "fly by wire" aircraft.

A V85? Well thank goodness. I was worried that you might have gone over to the dark side.

I guessing that this is the US$ price for a US gallon. If true, for this side of the pacific, $6US buys 3.76 litres. 1 US$ buys $1.47NZ. So Chuck's calculator pricing is equivalent to about $2.35NZ per litre, delivered to your plane. As for the 44gallon (UK) drum, it is the same size as a 55gallon (US) drum, which is about 200 litres. Brought to you by the South Pacific Metric Education Foundation

It seems to me that the whole world needs advice on this subject.

Cheeky bugger. Don't forget that you still owe me a beer. And it's spelled sensor, not sencer, dammit. Youth of today mutter mutter...

No change. The Air France plane had an autopilot disconnect in cruise as it got extreme icing in a super cell. The crew must have been half asleep, and stalled it all the way into the sea. Loss of situational awareness. The pitot icing was gone in seconds, and just re-engaging the autopilot would have saved them. Sorry Chuck, didn't mean to hijack the posting from a Weather God.

Nah mate, remember that commercial aircraft are flying on autopilot most of the time. Then airline procedure demands that only one pilot is flying if flying manually. On an Airbus, if both sidesticks are used at the same time, the inputs are algebraically added (with limits), just the same as manual inputs to B737 control wheels, except digitally instead of hand force. If both sidesticks are used, two SIDE STICK PRIORITY lights on the glareshield come on, a loud "DUAL INPUT" message is played every 5 sec, and a post flight report goes back to the airline. Not only can both pilots see each other's sidesticks, three computers are monitoring as well. The pilot can't hide on a modern aircraft.

When I was a young apprentice, I "salvaged" a 25litre drum of 100/130 (green Avgas) from a DC3 going into maintenance, and put it in my Honda CB450. It felt faster, so I tested it. It reached 1000rpm more in top gear at the bend on Harewood Road on 100/130 than the "96 Super" of the time. I previously thought that higher octane was only worthwhile with higher compression or a blower, but there it was going faster. Obviously there was some other difference than just octane rating for this fuel to give noticably more power. I had just fitted new 1st oversize pistons and rings, and XS650 cans, but otherwise the 450 was standard. I know that Avgas has less volatiles to avoid boil-off and vapor lock at altitude, and I assume higher calorific value ingredients which made such a noticable difference. Note that avgas is not the same as 100 octane service station pump fuel. As for using 100/130 Avgas in a V11, I agree with the comments that the TEL additive, even in the LL (low lead) variant, will harm a catalytic converter and oxygen sensor if fitted. If not fitted, no harm to the engine, and possibly more power.

I suspect that a new V11 did not have a 3k snort. @docc do you remember? I believe that you should complete Docc's tune-up guide first before tweaking the ECU. TPS setting, timing sensor gap, cylinder synchronization, and slightly looser than book valve clearances are important. Decent Tune-up - How to... - Moto Guzzi V11LeMans.com Forum Also look for signs of a worn timing chain tensioner affecting ignition timing. Point a timing light into the porthole in the bellhousing and watch for erratic movement of the timing mark at various revs.

While the sideplate is off, you could burnish the edges of the cam tracks in the cam wheels. I think Pete Roper suggested this. Then I shimmed the cam wheels inwards to maximize engagement with the shift fork pegs.

Tim, I fitted three pairs of drilled pucks in alternating recesses. See picture. No problems after 3 years. The other 3 pairs I sent to you in 2017/2018. Yours have slightly less rubber removed.

Drilling the cush rubbers was Greg Field's idea. I tried it, and never went back. Making a Cushier Cush Drive - Technical Topics - Moto Guzzi V11LeMans.com Forum There are 3 places that need lubrication while you have the drive plate off. The input spline to the wheel benefits from Kluber Staburags NBU 30 PTM grease, the rubber pucks and retainer plate spacer benefit from dry-lube spray, and the drive plate bore needs waterproof grease. Should I lubricate my rubbers? - Technical Topics - Moto Guzzi V11LeMans.com Forum More discussion here: Cush drive lubrication - Technical Topics - Moto Guzzi V11LeMans.com Forum

Possibly that weld can be as good as the original material, but not stronger. Because the weld attaches to original material, strength is limited by that. The weld looks good, but a strong weld depends on lots of things. Paint & oil contamination, incomplete weld penetration, porosity, and variations in any residual heat treatment all make restoration of strength difficult. But if it was me, and since the plate looks like the improved version, I'd leave it there. Watch for oil weeping through the weld after a long run.

I had to look up what a W123 was, and yes, now you mention it, there's a lot of them on the road in NZ. MB seems okay, but many recent models of European cars don't seem to age well. Great when new... The Volvo is an obvious exception. Great cars, similar reliability and durability to Japanese and Korean cars.

There's some discussion here that might help you. https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/bike-wont-start-dsb07-dsb08.2717/

Art, my bike needed a twist to start, just as you described. It came alive with a Ba-boom to wake the neighbors. I always felt bad about getting rpm above idle with low oil pressure. Then I loaded Meinolf's BIN file to the ECU. After that it starts and idles without touching the throttle.

As Tom suggests, a bike without a temp indicator is normal. You know what your oil temp is and it bothers you. Maybe you actually don't have a problem. Engine oil needs to get up to 100°C before water condensation evaporates. Cheap oils can tolerate 150°C without degradation, and Group 3 & 4 PAO/Ester oils handle over 200°C. Some engine oil additives don't work until the engine is up to temp. Hot is good

I made a ring-nut socket from a 50mm hex socket. But first, channeling my Father "if it isn't broken, don't fix it". I think you should only remove the pinion if you must change a leaky seal on the pinion shaft. Anyway, you would need to remove the #13 nut, as the seal is behind it. I used a hot air gun and heated the housing around the pinion bearing to 100°C. Nut #18 undoes easily then, and a gentle biff with a slide hammer and the pinion assembly will pull out. 100°C is safe for the seals and O-rings, but don't get much above 120ish°C. If you don't have a IR heat sensor, then a temp where you can touch the housing but can't hold your hand on it for a second is about right. Nut #13 is staked into a slot, and is tight. I drilled and split the old nut, but then of course I needed a new nut... and a shaped wood set of vice jaws to grip the pinion gear to tighten it back up. Lots of swarf spiraled off the outer end of the nut as I tightened it, so good cleaning is needed.