MartyNZ

Docc's second suggestion is the worst news, but is actually more likely. if the RH end of the crown wheel has rust pits on it, then the #10 seal needs to be replaced, after you blend out the rust (if minor) or fit a seal saver (if rust will chew out the new seal). Be aware of the seal orientation. It looks to be in backwards when correctly fitted. A leaky #10 seal allows oil to travel along the axle cavity inside the crown wheel, and the leak shows coming out the LH side of the box.

You should put the sensor back on the airbox where it was designed to be.

The air intake temp sensor should be in a position to measure the air going into the air filter. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19764-hey-you-guys-with-air-pods-and-ecus/#elControls_216472_menu DD mounted a sensor I made for him above the rear shock. Pictures and ride report here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19831-air-temp-mod-for-no-air-box/ The longer sensor is just the equivalent thermistor wired to an extended loom, with the last 100mm or so stiffened with a 3mm steel welding rod, covered with heat shrink. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20032-pods-what-size/&do=findComment&comment=222872

I went on a trip swapping between a Triumph Thruxton R and a Kawasaki W650. The R was the most planted bike I've ridden, and the W650 was fun, but needed more zip. So for a run to the cafe on Saturday morning, I think the W800 would be great.

I stopped buying Castrol when they started advertising Syntec as "full synthetic" despite the fact that it was made from a Group III mineral base oil. Because of Castrol, nowadays the advertising term "synthetic" applies to any mineral oil with extra processing and a higher price tag. All the manufacturers now sell a "synthetic" Group III mineral base oil. True synthetic oils are Group IV base oils made of polyalphaolefins (PAO) or Group V base oils made from esters (or other synthetic chemicals). I use an Australian oil in my air-cooled bike that is a mix of Group IV & V. I try to avoid products from manufacturers who imply lies in their advertising.

A flatmate years ago always wanted to mow the lawn when we had two stroke mower fuel mixed with Castrol R. It had an awesome smell. https://www.motorsportmagazine.com/archive/article/july-2000/55/castrol-r The storybook hero WW1 flying ace "Biggles" had to wipe castor oil off his goggles when flying his Sopwith Camel.

Ha, reminds me of an experiment I did as a school kid. I thought the nitrobenzene was related to tri-nitro-toluene (TNT), so I mixed up a batch of nitrobenzene in the chemistry lab, and poured it into the fuel tank of the big old Dennis school lawn mower. I watched the mowing for a long time before I realized I wasn't going to see anything exciting.

No problem Weegie, I was just surprised by how easy it was to pump oil through the oil pump.

Dunking them in boiling water, and using a smear of oil makes things easier. I think there is an order of left or right first that works best too.

How about this thing to beat the paint off your top fork yoke? Join the clan! PORTACHIAVI "THE CLAN" ORIGINALE MOTO GUZZI (motoitalia.it)

Using a hand pump, I could easily exceed the gauge range limit of 60psi, and, after 20 seconds got oil dribbling down from above. I don't have any concerns now about oil pressure. Thanks for the advice and comments. Helical gears explain why I could force oil past the main oil pump. Now I should be able to use that little hand pump to test a pressure regulator.

I did find a conductive resin (I know, too much junk lying about) and it was very conductive. The uncured "part A" measured at 2Ω over 10mm in a smear left in the lid. Nice, but I can't think of a use for it in my bike. It does tell me that a conductive paste is possible, but it would be bad in an ignition switch.

Good question. I looked at the "Carbon Conductive" grease mentioned by P6x Carbon Conductive Grease (mgchemicals.com). This "conductive grease" claims resistivity of 114Ω.cm. Since resistivity is the inverse of conductivity, then this is actually about as conductive as drinking water. (IE very poor) So anyway, I measured the resistance of silver goop and C5A copper anti-seize. The resistance of both was too high for my meter to measure.

Imagine the bad things that will happen when "conducting" grease gets spread between contacts inside the switch. Most conductive greases are designed for static voltage control or slip rails. They are not for ignition switches. Ordinary non-conductive (dielectric) grease is best. Vaseline is a good dielectric, but gets thicker in cold and could hold contacts apart. Lubriplate DS-ES grease is designed for switches, but any white lithium based grease will be good. Most connectors benefit from liberal application of dielectric grease. I wrote about this here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19693-aircraft-piloting-analogies/&do=findComment&comment=259237

You're probably right. That would be Kiwi_Roy's "Relay Base Repair" See attachment. Cash1000 and I already did that repair some years ago. Maybe next time we should renew the terminals instead of just crimping. Relay Base Repair.pdf

I think he removed some spade sockets, and crimped on new ones.

I couldn't read the marks on your picture, so I looked at the original pic. It says FRC7C-SR-1, 12VDC, NO 30A, NC 25A, at 14VDC Spec sheet attached. I do like the idea of the wider 4.8mm pins rather than the thin 2.8mm pins 85 & 86 on some Omron relay types. FRC7 Relay.pdf

After having the oil module and cooler off my bike, I thought I should prime the parts with fresh oil. I was surprised to find that oil pumped through the oil pump at quite low pressure. Does this mean the pump is worn? I thought a positive displacement gear pump wouldn't allow oil past unless it was turning. Picture below shows filling and purging the empty oil cooler. Picture below shows pumping oil into the oil pump intake. Oil flows with pressure above 68kPa (10psi) and eventually drips down from above.

That's the phonic wheel. As the teeth go past the rpm and TDC sensor, the sensor gives this information to the ECU. Now you mention it, it could be lightened, but just not the diameter or tooth mass.

Steel bolts fit the price/performance sweet spot. Titanium is almost as strong, lighter, but more expensive, Stainless steel is shiny.

They fixed the bike and lightened your wallet.

Here's a post I made previously on charger use: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20617-charging-the-battery-hooked-up-in-the-bike-bad-idea/#elControls_236544_menu

He is taking it to a shop today. Hopefully we will know more tomorrow. Or when he gets home.

Rob (O2V11) called me and offered to drive to Dunedin from Edendale with spare parts if you needed anything, as his bike is waiting for a crankcase vent hose. Kind offer, but I think the part you need is a single use terminal. I hope I'm right.

Sorry I couldn't put much time into helping earlier today. 1 year old granddaughter was keeping me busy. Phil's comments are supported by Kiwi_Roy's diagrams attached. A local Dunedin auto-electrical shop should be able to see which spade terminal is pushing back in the socket, and replace it. I don't have the type of female spade terminals that are made with the retainer hook on the back. I'm ordering some tonight in case you ever make it back home. . Charging Circuit Problems.pdf Charging Circuit Reference.pdf