MartyNZ

I have some relays sitting in a box. Pick one. Do you need a base too? I don't have terminals for it yet though. The price is one of the famous Stathelle IPA beers next time I get to Norway. I plan to fit one of these larger relays to my bike to replace the rear-most relay.

How about this Adapter Oil Pan Moto Guzzi V11 Le Mans | eBay or Moto Guzzi V 11 Le Mans KS Bj 2003 - Oil pan intermediate ring engine cover A28G | eBay

I remember seeing the manual showing a similar rope start process for a Bristol 170 years ago. It described canvas prop tip socks on a rope to be connected to a Land Rover. The engine is a 2000 hp Bristol Hercules 734 high compression sleeve valve radial engine, and the chances of something going wrong must be high. Here is a normal (ish) start for that engine http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXDw_670JJk The Land Rover was probably specified because: a. it is a British vehicle for a British plane, and b. if the rope tangles in the prop, the aluminum Land Rover body wouldn't damage the prop so much as it gets reeled in. Here is a video of an Embraer 202 started by a pull rope. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ecosb5mSDwo

Yup. In 1900 most urban traffic in New York was horse drawn. By 1913 most traffic was ICE cars. Bicycles, trams, steam/ICE/electric cars were disruptive technologies of the time that put horse traffic off the road in a decade. Now hydrogen fuel cells, awesome batteries, and variable frequency induction motors are today's disruptive tech. Within 10 years my diesel truck could be worthless. (no plans to sell my bike though)

Until an electrical expert comes along, here are some things to do. Even if it doesn't fix your problem, it is still good basic maintenance. 1. Undo and clean the negative cable connection to the gearbox. Bright metal to metal contacts. Assemble with grease/ Vaseline/ DowCorning4 oozing out as you tighten the bolt. 2. Do the same to the battery terminals, and starter terminal 3. Make sure the regulator is grounded properly. You may need to add a grounding wire.

I got one for my bike. Scud kindly tested it for me on his Scura before he mailed it to me. It seems that my bike runs much cooler oil temp than Scud's. Probably because my ECU is running richer than his, or that I am too easy on the throttle. Perhaps I should just go faster. "Honest Officer, I'm just getting my oil temp up to clear the condensation".

You're right, so I went back and edited the text in that link I gave.

I did do all the suggested adjustments given in https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/21701-ecu-bin-maps/&do=findComment&comment=233775 The first thing I noticed was the engine would start and idle without needing to touch the throttle. No more waking the neighbors with a fistful of noise before the oil pressure got up. No sorry Docc, I meant to say the basic tuneup is excellent advice, but I used the Meinolf settings if different. Closed screws, 0.3mm clearances, 0.157TPS volts, idle stops used on both sides to balance & set idle speed.

I have a similar configuration to that mentioned in Meinolf's except for the blended throttle body shafts. So I followed his advice given here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/21701-ecu-bin-maps/#elControls_233775_menu Since I loaded his BIN file to the ECU, and set up the tuning as he suggested, and also as Docc suggested here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19610-decent-tune-up/ the bike runs well. I am puzzled by the frequent complaints of poor running or the "3000rpm snort" in V11s when the permanent cure has been available for years.

Yes, I'm running Meinolf's v93, and I'm very happy with it. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/22024-meinolfs-v11-bin/&tab=comments#comment-253138 @dbarb3if you use the search function on this site you can find lots of information to help you.

Nope, the TPS provides a voltage to the ECU that depends on throttle position. The ECU interprets that voltage as throttle open angle, no matter what map you use. If you have a later model, eg Griso, things are different

Can you tell me more Tim? What was your decision and why?

I like your idea, but first, think about this: a. the snorkels exist mainly to draw cool air from forward of the hot air rising from the engine. Cool air = dense air so better performance. Shortening the air path may hurt more than it helps if it draws in hot air. b. The step in the intake snorkels is designed to catch and drain any water droplets from road spray & heavy rain. A coalescence trap. Cutting will remove that function. Maybe not a problem if you don't ride in rain. c. Since you already modified the bell mouths on the two snorkels, I expect the combined airflow available will already exceed the alternating flow demands from each throttle body, so opening the snorkels up further may not help. If you have a spare airbox cover, it would be a good experiment to try.

My bike had a 3000 rpm hiccup, which went away after I fitted new rubbers between the throttle bodies and the heads (mentioned by Jaap), and set the valve clearance wider than spec. But EMI interference is an interesting thought. You can reduce this by avoiding any parallel runs of cables next to the leads, or increasing the gap between the cables and leads. Double the gap, quarter the EMI.

Until the "battery brains trust" makes a comment, I'd like to share my opinion. Full Spectrum Power claim " lightest weight; highest cranking power; most capacity; smallest size". They don't specify their lithium cell chemistry, so it probably uses the high performing but dangerous polymer technology. It wouldn't be fun sitting on a battery fire. I use a Shorai LFX21L6-BS12 on my V11, and plug in the dedicated Shorai balance charger BMS01 a couple of times a year. It is a LIFePo4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) type, which doesn't hold the most power, but is the safest chemistry. Comparison of lithium cell chemistry here: Safety of Lithium-Ion batteries - PowerTech Systems Shorai Battery Finder | Shorai Power (litema.com.au) What you need to know about lithium motorcycle batteries : FastBikeGear, Importers and Distributors of Motorcycle Accessories

It looks like a handy gadget. I see that an injector cleaning kit is available to buy from China, but it appears that yours has better electrical control. A crude one I made for Scud is show here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/18805-brand-new-scura/&do=findComment&comment=215317 The Chinese kit has adapters for different injectors using spray can cleaners. https://m.aliexpress.com/item/1005001855410559.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.48013c00GOr8LK&mp=1 I don't know if it allows back flushing, which I think is important.

A dry clutch, like a car

I've wondered that myself. A higher oil level seems like a good idea for improved pump priming and reduced risk of pump cavitation, so long as the plate is there to stop the crank from thrashing the oil into foam. But then higher oil level means less space for air/oil separation in the returning oil. Also less crankcase air volume may mean more energetic pressure pulses into the breather system, possibly leading to more oil into the air box. Although a 90 degree twin probably has lower pulsing than some designs. Or maybe there is no practical difference.

Sorry to hear about your tip over. I blamed the dog when it happened to me. I'd crimp and sleeve. Also I would slide some heat shrink tubing over the wire (before you finish crimping). Even better is the type of sleeving that has glue in it that completely seals the joint when heated.

Built cranks were reasonably common. Norton Commando cranks are bolted 3 piece. Honda CB350 & 450 are pressed together roller cranks. Yamaha XS650 is a pressed plain bearing crank. Probably lots more that I haven't seen.

You are not the only one to have trouble with exhaust gaskets. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19515-help-with-heads/&tab=comments#elControls_211589_menu

Magni is an Italian company who took good engines and put them into their own frames. The Sfida 1000 uses a Moto Guzzi Le Mans engine / gearbox. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magni_(motorcycle)

I need to sit down with a beer to consider the wisdom shown in this thread. But should I measure the beer in milliliters, pints, fluid ounces, or British standard bathtubs? (I just made that last one up). The V11 fuel tank holds about 1/64 BSBs.

I actually shimmed the gear/ cam wheels inwards toward the gear shifting pins to improve engagement in the cam slots. With only 0.3mm clearance, this meant some fiddling with the neutral switch seal washer.

A suggestion to try before you remove the side plate: push a screwdriver into the switch hole onto the cam plate. If you can feel the springiness of the banana plate bending, then it could mean the circlip is off.