MartyNZ

Good question. I looked at the "Carbon Conductive" grease mentioned by P6x Carbon Conductive Grease (mgchemicals.com). This "conductive grease" claims resistivity of 114Ω.cm. Since resistivity is the inverse of conductivity, then this is actually about as conductive as drinking water. (IE very poor) So anyway, I measured the resistance of silver goop and C5A copper anti-seize. The resistance of both was too high for my meter to measure.

Imagine the bad things that will happen when "conducting" grease gets spread between contacts inside the switch. Most conductive greases are designed for static voltage control or slip rails. They are not for ignition switches. Ordinary non-conductive (dielectric) grease is best. Vaseline is a good dielectric, but gets thicker in cold and could hold contacts apart. Lubriplate DS-ES grease is designed for switches, but any white lithium based grease will be good. Most connectors benefit from liberal application of dielectric grease. I wrote about this here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19693-aircraft-piloting-analogies/&do=findComment&comment=259237

You're probably right. That would be Kiwi_Roy's "Relay Base Repair" See attachment. Cash1000 and I already did that repair some years ago. Maybe next time we should renew the terminals instead of just crimping. Relay Base Repair.pdf

I think he removed some spade sockets, and crimped on new ones.

I couldn't read the marks on your picture, so I looked at the original pic. It says FRC7C-SR-1, 12VDC, NO 30A, NC 25A, at 14VDC Spec sheet attached. I do like the idea of the wider 4.8mm pins rather than the thin 2.8mm pins 85 & 86 on some Omron relay types. FRC7 Relay.pdf

After having the oil module and cooler off my bike, I thought I should prime the parts with fresh oil. I was surprised to find that oil pumped through the oil pump at quite low pressure. Does this mean the pump is worn? I thought a positive displacement gear pump wouldn't allow oil past unless it was turning. Picture below shows filling and purging the empty oil cooler. Picture below shows pumping oil into the oil pump intake. Oil flows with pressure above 68kPa (10psi) and eventually drips down from above.

That's the phonic wheel. As the teeth go past the rpm and TDC sensor, the sensor gives this information to the ECU. Now you mention it, it could be lightened, but just not the diameter or tooth mass.

Steel bolts fit the price/performance sweet spot. Titanium is almost as strong, lighter, but more expensive, Stainless steel is shiny.

They fixed the bike and lightened your wallet.

Here's a post I made previously on charger use: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20617-charging-the-battery-hooked-up-in-the-bike-bad-idea/#elControls_236544_menu

He is taking it to a shop today. Hopefully we will know more tomorrow. Or when he gets home.

Rob (O2V11) called me and offered to drive to Dunedin from Edendale with spare parts if you needed anything, as his bike is waiting for a crankcase vent hose. Kind offer, but I think the part you need is a single use terminal. I hope I'm right.

Sorry I couldn't put much time into helping earlier today. 1 year old granddaughter was keeping me busy. Phil's comments are supported by Kiwi_Roy's diagrams attached. A local Dunedin auto-electrical shop should be able to see which spade terminal is pushing back in the socket, and replace it. I don't have the type of female spade terminals that are made with the retainer hook on the back. I'm ordering some tonight in case you ever make it back home. . Charging Circuit Problems.pdf Charging Circuit Reference.pdf

I have some relays sitting in a box. Pick one. Do you need a base too? I don't have terminals for it yet though. The price is one of the famous Stathelle IPA beers next time I get to Norway. I plan to fit one of these larger relays to my bike to replace the rear-most relay.

How about this Adapter Oil Pan Moto Guzzi V11 Le Mans | eBay or Moto Guzzi V 11 Le Mans KS Bj 2003 - Oil pan intermediate ring engine cover A28G | eBay

I remember seeing the manual showing a similar rope start process for a Bristol 170 years ago. It described canvas prop tip socks on a rope to be connected to a Land Rover. The engine is a 2000 hp Bristol Hercules 734 high compression sleeve valve radial engine, and the chances of something going wrong must be high. Here is a normal (ish) start for that engine http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXDw_670JJk The Land Rover was probably specified because: a. it is a British vehicle for a British plane, and b. if the rope tangles in the prop, the aluminum Land Rover body wouldn't damage the prop so much as it gets reeled in. Here is a video of an Embraer 202 started by a pull rope. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ecosb5mSDwo

Yup. In 1900 most urban traffic in New York was horse drawn. By 1913 most traffic was ICE cars. Bicycles, trams, steam/ICE/electric cars were disruptive technologies of the time that put horse traffic off the road in a decade. Now hydrogen fuel cells, awesome batteries, and variable frequency induction motors are today's disruptive tech. Within 10 years my diesel truck could be worthless. (no plans to sell my bike though)

Until an electrical expert comes along, here are some things to do. Even if it doesn't fix your problem, it is still good basic maintenance. 1. Undo and clean the negative cable connection to the gearbox. Bright metal to metal contacts. Assemble with grease/ Vaseline/ DowCorning4 oozing out as you tighten the bolt. 2. Do the same to the battery terminals, and starter terminal 3. Make sure the regulator is grounded properly. You may need to add a grounding wire.

I got one for my bike. Scud kindly tested it for me on his Scura before he mailed it to me. It seems that my bike runs much cooler oil temp than Scud's. Probably because my ECU is running richer than his, or that I am too easy on the throttle. Perhaps I should just go faster. "Honest Officer, I'm just getting my oil temp up to clear the condensation".

You're right, so I went back and edited the text in that link I gave.

I did do all the suggested adjustments given in https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/21701-ecu-bin-maps/&do=findComment&comment=233775 The first thing I noticed was the engine would start and idle without needing to touch the throttle. No more waking the neighbors with a fistful of noise before the oil pressure got up. No sorry Docc, I meant to say the basic tuneup is excellent advice, but I used the Meinolf settings if different. Closed screws, 0.3mm clearances, 0.157TPS volts, idle stops used on both sides to balance & set idle speed.

I have a similar configuration to that mentioned in Meinolf's except for the blended throttle body shafts. So I followed his advice given here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/21701-ecu-bin-maps/#elControls_233775_menu Since I loaded his BIN file to the ECU, and set up the tuning as he suggested, and also as Docc suggested here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19610-decent-tune-up/ the bike runs well. I am puzzled by the frequent complaints of poor running or the "3000rpm snort" in V11s when the permanent cure has been available for years.

Yes, I'm running Meinolf's v93, and I'm very happy with it. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/22024-meinolfs-v11-bin/&tab=comments#comment-253138 @dbarb3if you use the search function on this site you can find lots of information to help you.

Nope, the TPS provides a voltage to the ECU that depends on throttle position. The ECU interprets that voltage as throttle open angle, no matter what map you use. If you have a later model, eg Griso, things are different

Can you tell me more Tim? What was your decision and why?