MartyNZ

Is it possible that the circlip (Item 13) (you call it a Seeger Ring) has come off, allowing the cam wheel to move inboard? [docc edit July 30, 2021: added red emphasis to @MartyNZ's correct answer. Thanks, Marty! ] Or the nut holding item 20 post is not tight? That would allow both wheels to move inboard. (But only a tiny bit)

Did you wind the switch in to fix a leak? Try turning the neutral switch out 1/6 turn intervals until it works normally, then fit a seal washer of that thickness. The switch turns on the green light when the plunger extends into a depression in the face of the lower cam wheel.

Joe says his gears are made of EN24T steel. This British standard is similar to US standard AISI 4340. It's pretty good stuff that could be heat treated up to ultra high strength. "T" condition has good strength yet can still be machined. (tensile strength 850/1000 N/mm² / 123-145 KSI)

This is very interesting for me. I know my timing chain is sloppy; when I point a timing light into the little inspection hole to see the flywheel mark, I can see the mark jiggling up and down. Since I have to fix this sometime, I have to ask whether you think a new chain and tensioner would achieve the same improvement as a gear set? I expect that it would be a lot cheaper.

I carry one under the seat in case I need an emergency top up. A downside is it unseats the valve in the wheel, so as you fit or remove it you lose a tiny bit of pressure. If you leave one on permanently, you add to potential pressure leak sources, and may upset wheel balance. Agree on angle valve stems, but Cash1000 had one leak after the thread stripped. Get good quality valve stems. I'm ambivalent on nitrogen. It is well established that eliminating water vapor and oxygen is helpful. Water vapor gives greater tire pressure changes with heat; important to avoid in racing. Oxygen causes oxidation: brittle rubber, rim rust, seal deterioration, and faster leak rate. The mandatory requirement for nitrogen in commercial aviation is valid in that industry where tires are 800% overloaded (intermittantly) in comparison to cars. This does not mean nitrogen is needed for cars or bikes. However consumer tests show a small but real reduction in pressure loss over several months for nitrogen inflated tires. This is good, but Dalton's law of partial pressures tells us that eventually other gasses will diffuse into a nitrogen inflated tire, so purging and re-inflating after several years could be needed. My conclusion is you could choose to use nitrogen if it is free, but checking tire pressure is more important.

Meinolf gave some advice on tuning to go with his map here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/21701-ecu-bin-maps/#elControls_233775_menu I used his map on my Ti ECU, and have never been inclined to revert to the Ti map I saved.

If you find water, you should change the fuel filter, and clear the screen on the fuel tap inlet. I had brown fuzz through my bike fuel system that may have come from disintegrating filter paper.

Fuel pumped past the injectors returns to the tank through the pressure regulator. You can drain any water/old gas at the bottom of the tank by disconnecting the hose at the regulator, and collecting the fuel as you turn on and off the ign switch. About half a cup will come out each prime cycle.

Allite Super Magnesium "weighing 30% less than aluminum by volume and being both stiffer and stronger pound for pound". This is a misleading claim. Allite's website states their alloy strength is greater than steel (not in this universe) but they don't give numbers. Be careful not to slip in the snake oil - this alloy is likely to be weaker than the aluminum alloy in the factory side plates. To get equivalent strength you need to make magnesium alloy side plates thicker/bulkier to make up for the weaker material. Allite claim "shock absorbing properties" but this means it is more elastic (lower Young's modulus). This means a more floppy swing arm mount, unless made thicker/bulkier. You should listen to Pete, and also look at the material properties.

Douglas Noel Adams was a Brit who wrote "The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy" among other stories. A great storyteller who improved my life. If you find that you are taking yourself too seriously, his books are the antidote.

There's a good discussion on setting the sensor clearance here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/21021-guzzisti-friendship/#elControls_240669_menu

Shimming V11 RPM Sensor.pdf Josh, I suspect that your phase/revolution sensor PN GU01721600 is bad. It is a coil of very fine wire inside a resin body. It can work ok when cold, but become open circuit as the engine warms up. If the connection in the coil wire is intermittent, then the engine will be erratic. See links below to previous posts including an alternate non-Guzzi part source, and gap setting instruction attached. phase sensor repair - How to... - Moto Guzzi V11LeMans.com Forum https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19509-v11-sneeze/&tab=comments#elControls_211454_menu Timing sensor Leak - Technical Topics - Moto Guzzi V11LeMans.com Forum

Many in NZ say "kays". Although as a country with a lot of sheep, we could start using Sheppies. Douglas Adams said a Sheppy is the closest distance at which sheep remain picturesque (about 1.4 kays).

I'm still happy with the Shorai battery in my bike. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19799-pc545-still-the-way-to-go/&do=findComment&comment=247107

Winding road; Roxburg - Alexandra

You're right. And so is he to tell you to use it. Or CAIG DeoxIT. Any dielectric is a very good insulator. But as a grease, like "bulb grease", Permatex dielectric grease, CRC dielectric grease, or "DuPont Molycote 4", the grease is easily pushed aside to let metal to metal electrical contact for terminals, plugs, bulbs etc. It stops oxygen and water from tarnishing the contact metals, so connections last better. It won't fix bad connections, (mechanical scraping does that, or unplug/repluging) but it will preserve good connections. This is what it is designed for. Vaseline does a similar job, but silicon dielectric grease doesn't burn, and won't freeze or run from -50 to +200C. Important for aircraft. Another handy property of silicon grease is it conducts heat, despite not conducting electricity. CAIG DeoxIT and similar electrical clean/protection sprays are combined contact cleaner, corrosion inhibitor, and dissolved grease in a spray can. The solvent cleans the connection, and inhibitor/grease protects the connection. They work well, but the benefits don't last as long as a dielectric grease. My bike had every electric plug & terminal connected oozing with DC4. Years later, no problems. (except for a couple of those effing relays).

Have you tried this place? https://woodcraft-cfm.com/collections/clipons-spare-parts

Here's some pictures of the mounts on my bike. You can see a bit of paint blistering where I ground some clearance on the mounts for something nearby. Excuse the grime. I've always wondered what Docc does to keep his bike looking so nice? Maybe he can share the secret

I walked into a HD dealership today by mistake. It was disguised as a CanAm dealership. I got out ok, but had to stare at a nearby Ducati 998 for a while until I felt better.

Wow, that's a nuisance. I have a pair of bevel boxes apart at the moment, and noticed that the crown wheel and bearing inner race are pressed onto the shaft/output spline. I even thought about separating the crown wheel off one shaft to fit to another shaft with an unworn output spline, thinking it may avoid the tricky job of shimming and setting backlash. But no. Anyway for your problem. Bevel boxes in earlier Guzzis have a ring of big bolts that indicate high loads in the joint that failed on your shaft. Bearing retainer or epoxy may not make a strong enough bond. Brazing may work if your expert can avoid affecting the heat treatment of the teeth and spline. Otherwise you are facing replacement of the CW & pinion as a pair (or the whole thing).

I had a leak like that, and found that the two recessed nuts in the tank had pulled out a bit. I filed across the plastic base a tiny bit (0.5mm) to make sure that the o-ring was being clamped properly. Seemed to work for me.

Here is a video of a V11 going from Christchurch to Akaroa in New Zealand. This is a popular trip around here This seems to be the guy's first ride on a Guzzi, and he has some charming commentary about the bike. https://youtu.be/E3us8tjJRTU And here is my bike at a bay near Akaroa

There is a post about repair of those Titanium mufflers here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/13524-repairing-a-ti-can/

Hello Simone, There are some BIN files available for the 15M at https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/21701-ecu-bin-maps/ If you cannot download them, send me a personal message, and I will email them to you. I can't find a 15RC BIN, but there are people who may help. See discussions: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/16359-california-vintage/page/6/&tab=comments#elControls_251108_menu https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/22035-ecu-limited-by-stock-o2/ DD fitted a 15M in place of a 15RC and with Meinolf's BIN, he is very happy with the results. This disabled the lambda sensor. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19652-v11-ecu-15rc-vs-15m/ Happy 2021, Marty.

Keep in mind that all battery types have poorer performance when cold. https://www.power-sonic.com/blog/batteries/lithium-vs-lead-acid-batteries/