MartyNZ

Sharp eyes. Yes, silicone foam tape is in there to reduce relays shaking in their sockets. I don't know how effective it is yet, but when I got the bike it had loose terminal sockets for some of the relays. A possible downside is a slight reduction in heat loss from the relays. Docc has written about relays getting hot. The white square covers are over single stud terminal blocks. All the cables to the battery will go there, and another cable goes to the battery. That's the plan, but I haven't got to finish that little job.

The Shorai LFX21L6-BS12 is 148 mm side to side, 82 mm top to bottom, 140 mm front to back, and weighs 1.36kg. It is the biggest model I could get that would fit in the stock cradle. I think the PC545 Odyssey is 177.8mm side to side, 85.9mm top to bottom, 131.3mm front to back, and weighs 5.7kg.

I'm happy with the Shorai LFX21L6-BS12 on my bike. It has given no signs of trouble over the last three years. It better not, given the price, though it does have a 5-year prorated warranty. I plug in the dedicated Shorai balance charger BMS01 a couple of times a year, as Shorai says "While standard lead-acid chargers can be used with Shorai LFX when needed, the BMS01 is specifically designed to charge, store, maintain, balance, and diagnose your LFX battery".

Same as Phil, I keep the gearbox oil in the middle of the sight glass when the bike is sitting upright on the shop stand. I found that I was overfilling my gearbox when I just held the bike up and looked at the level. It takes the oil a while to settle, and I ran out of patience holding the bike up and watching the level. A couple of minor oil weeps were caused by high oil level. Sitting on the shop stand for more than 10 minutes shows the true level. If you remove the sight glass to clean it, you will see why. It has a quite small hole for oil movement.

Have you seen this?

That link points to shoes. Maybe you could edit your post?

Hey Rob, Did you go to the Burt Munro Challenge this year? Were there many Guzzis there? Any pictures? https://burtmunrochallenge.co.nz https://www.stuff.co.nz/sport/motorsport/119325308/speed-record-set-at-oreti-beach-despite-strong-winds I hope Edendale wasn't affected by the flood.

Kiwi Roy offered good advice here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20229-its-time-service-your-battery-terminals All the electrical problems on my V11 were caused by poor connections. Tarnishing or corrosion between the cable terminal and the battery post or gearbox ground point for example. This is fixed by cleaning the contact faces of the terminal and the face of the thing it touches, or unplugging and replugging a connector. This fix can be made permanent by applying grease/vaseline/dielectric grease to the joint before assembly, then tightening the connection. The grease squeezes out to allow a good electrical contact, and prevents air or water causing more tarnishing or corrosion. Fitting a new battery or earth strap can cure a problem that could be cured by just making the connection faces of the old parts shiny again.

I loaded Meinolf's #93 to my bike last night. I previously had #58, which I thought was the best yet. However #93 is better. Idle is more steady, and the engine somehow seems more willing. Good effort Meinolf, and thanks.

I added it to https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19609-ecu-bin-maps/ I'm not sure why I can and you can't, but I notice that the phase of the moon, daylight savings, and brexit cause many curious things to happen.

You could put Meinolf's bin file here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19609-ecu-bin-maps/

I have some end caps you can have for nix. They are made for 6mm cable, so you would need to trim 8mm cable a little. PM me your address.

Hallo Tom, My bike has titanium cans, factory crossover under the gearbox, no crossover in front of the alternator, factory airbox, and 15M ECU loaded with Meinolf's #58 map. Tuning settings are: CO trim set to zero, Both bypass screws completely closed, TPS set to 156mV with everything disconnected and throttle fully closed (below idle), Valve play set to 0.25mm, both exhaust and intake. Most of these settings are Meinolf's recommendations, and seem good. The wider valve clearance completely fixed the occasional snort at around 3000 rpm. Nyt ferien! Marty

The TI ECU is a standard ECU with a slightly richer map preloaded. And a Titanio sticker over the Marelli original. When I got my V11, it already had a TI kit fitted, which includes a TI ECU. I saved the .bin file from the ECU, and then overwrote various other bin files on it using GuzziDiag and the 2 associated read/write programs. I am using a Meinolf bin file (map) at the moment, because it starts and runs better than anything else I have tried.

Have you looked at the FRAM Fuel Filter G3895? Both barbs are at one end. Dimensions below in inches. 33463 WIX or F53190 PUROLATOR might be similar. Height 4.969, Outside Diameter 2.172, Inlet Line Size 5/16 Tube Connector, Outlet Line Size 5/16 Tube Connector, Construction Metal.

You are thinking of AC current. That AC "skin effect" becomes more pronounced as the AC frequency goes higher, and is only noticible at kilohertz ranges. DC current flows through the total cross sectional area of the conductor. Exterior tarnishing cannot limit current in the cable, except at external connections like crimps. I agree that Iridium plugs are worth the money.

All the electrical problems on my V11 were caused by degraded connections. Tarnishing or corrosion between the cable terminal and the battery post or gearbox ground point for example. This is fixed by cleaning the contact faces of the terminal and the face of the thing it touches. This fix can be made permanent by applying grease/vaseline/dielectric grease to the joint before assembly, then tightening the connection. The grease squeezes out to allow a good electrical contact, and prevents air or water causing more tarnishing or corrosion. New cables can also fix electrical problems, so long as you make sure the new terminals contact clean and bright metal. Bad crimping of a factory cable could be fixed a new cable, but this is rare. New cables will look nicer, but cost more. https://motolectric.com/faq.html appear to make a good product, but their copper terminals are not tin plated. Bare copper tarnishes without this protection. Strike 0ne. They claim "As wire ages it flows less current " and other statements which defy the laws of physics. Strike two...

Yep, they are good. The white writing can be wiped off with isopropyl alcohol if you think it looks pretentious (although the words "racing cable" does add 2hp ). The sleeve can be slid along the cable to protect against chaffing on the frame and cylinder heads.

Try searching "tank strap rubber". There is a local company over here that makes EPDM extruded sections in many sizes. https://www.rubbermark.co.nz/product/tank-strap/ Let me know if I can help with ordering some.

My bike had bullet connectors on those two yellow wires, and after they melted and fused, I cut them off, slid on some heat shrink sleeve, fitted crimp connectors, applied DC4 dielectric grease (any grease is better than nothing) , and shrunk the heat shrink sleeve so the grease squeezed out each end. The joints have been trouble free ever since. The wiring is in a hostile environment with tire spray, and heat/cool cycles. You will need to cut the crimps if you want to remove the engine or alternator stator in the future, but the yellow wires were much too long so that would be no problem. The reason the connectors melted was because of resistance in the connector caused by corrosion in the joint. Water, salt, oxygen, make the connection corrode, so the resistance goes up. Joules law says heat in a connection equals current squared times resistance. Say 10 amps through 2 ohms gives 200 watts of heat. 10x10x2=200W. That's more than enough to melt the connectors. We often see the same in the 30 amp fuse melting. Clean and sealed connectors can last, if water and oxygen are excluded.

I've got a swivel adjustable grease thing that you can borrow. It's not great, but works.

Ha! That's what Lorde was singing about. "That green light, I want it". https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/18925-what-do-you-listen-to-share-your-favs/&do=findComment&comment=239743 But seriously, I think Lucky Phil is right.

As well as getting relays failing, you can get poor pin retention, and/or pushed back sockets in the relay bases. See Kiwi_Roy's advice on fixing the relay bases. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20534-relay-base-repair/&do=findComment&comment=172857

I made my own copy of the factory stand, but I am out of town for two weeks. When I get back I can send you a sketch if you want it. I copied Cash1000's homemade stand, but added wheels and painted it red.

WMV11_Alternator&Reg.pdf