MartyNZ

https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/31125-help/?do=findComment&comment=299506 I measured an old TPS removed from the TB, and got 1.22KΩ. I expect the TPS resistance to be slightly higher to get 157mv. See link above. Remember that the throttle must be closed fully, which is below idle.

I think it's possible to swap the ignition coil supply leads. Could the same thing happen to the injector leads?

Also check valve clearances and TPS setting

Yes, l found a Toyota diesel got better range on 5W-30 oil than 10W-30. The manual allowed both. The local Toyota service center used 10W-30 Castrol on my Hilux, and when I changed the oil myself using 5W-30 Penrite, I found that I got an additional 100km range per tank.

Where does that nice white lamp holder come from? Mine has at least 2 previous epoxy repairs gobbed around the insert nuts.😄

The oil filter access porthole has such a fine thread on a large diameter that the risk of cross threading as you refit it is high. Better to drop the sump. Then you can properly tighten the new filter.

@cash1000 had foaming in his gearbox oil. He drained and refilled a few times before it stayed clear. We thought that it may be because of water getting into the oil, and the only path for water seemed to be the vent, which is in line with spray from the rear wheel. We both fitted a remote vent hose to avoid this. The vent plug thread is M6 x 1 mm.

Sorry, I was not local, just passing by. A Washington resident may know the bike owner. I liked the mufflers, swingarm, crossover, and stock airbox (he resisted the pod filter fashion). It would be interesting to know if there was a useful handling improvement.

A kind offer. Shipping costs from USA seem to be in the arm/leg/first born category recently. I'll keep it in mind.

Yes to both. See previous posts here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/30710-signal-indicators/?do=findComment&comment=291012

Like Tom said, Kluber Staburags NBU 30 PTM specified for BMW splines seems to work well.

It's lucky that you have a center stand on your bike, otherwise that would be really inconvenient. On my bike, I noticed that the lower bolt was slightly bent as I put it back, so I take your problem as as warning.

While you wait for a better TPS, (see Phil's suggestion) try popping the bottom off and looking for the reason why you can't get enough travel. There may be plastic molding flash, or some other rework will allow you to get back on the road. I measured the resistance of an old TPS that was worn and erratic but gives some representative figures. Top pin to mid pin: 2.65KΩ Throttle closed; 2.65KΩ Throttle open. Mid pin to bottom pin: 3.84KΩ Throttle closed; 1.22KΩ Throttle open. Top pin to bottom pin: 1.22KΩ Throttle closed; 3.92KΩ Throttle open.

Is it a PF3 TPS? There are different options out there, but the 15M ECU is optimized for the 2 rate response curve of the PF3.

Yes, my 2003 black long frame bike is the same: violet top, yellow middle, violet/black bottom wire at TPS.

The TPS should read 157mV when the RH throttle is closed fully, well below the idle setting. I think you would see about 400-500mV at idle. To get the butterfly fully closed, the RH end of the interconnecting rod ball joint needs to be popped off, and the idle stop screw needs to be backed out until it doesn't hold the throttle open. If the voltage reading doesn't change smoothly from below idle to WOT, then it's time to get a new TPS. Don't ignore the tiniest cracks in the rubber tubes between the throttle bodies and inlet stubs. Replacing these should be a 10 year routine job.

Seen at Moto International in Seattle in 2015. A nice-looking Rosso Corsa.

V11 Rear Wheel Spacers v1.pdf Does this help?

The hairs on the back of my hands protect my knuckles from wearing out, but it's a bit hurtful of you to point that out. I hope a Drop Bear rips your bike seat, and your bananas go straight from green to brown

This knuckle dragger has had good results with 3M EC2216 epoxy. It is slightly flexible when cured, and like all epoxies, it has excellent oil resistance (when cured). I was trying to keep things simple for @RichardCAwho tells us that he has limited facilities.

A commentary on this accident and link to the preliminary NTSB report is here: https://asn.flightsafety.org/wikibase/348680

Any idea why the valve bent? I see that the part numbers for valves and guides are the same for a 1100iE and a V11, so maybe there is warning for something to look out for on V11 bikes too? GU37036105 Exhaust valve GU37036005 Intake valve GU13036801 Exhaust valve guide GU14036860 Intake valve guide

That metal tube is a steel roll pin that limits the forward travel of the ratcheting pawl arm. It is important. Later gearboxes have an eccentric pin allowing some adjustment. A tight fit should be enough to hold it in, but since you suspect that it has come out at least twice, you need to try something else. Try degreasing the pin and hole, and tap the pin in with a smear of epoxy resin. Since the gearbox doesn't get hot, any general purpose epoxy will do. Allow 24 hours to cure before adding oil. Have you seen these? : V11 Shift improvement - How to... - Moto Guzzi V11LeMans.com Forum Re-engineering the Shift Spring - How to... - Moto Guzzi V11LeMans.com Forum

I believe that Daytona pillion footrest hangers are used with the TI kit. I also believe that you can mount the TI kit using the std hangers if you want the lower slung look. I hope that you know that those cans are really easy to dent, so look after them. Wait, what's that in the plastic bag?

Finally got time to work on faults. It's winter time here. As Tom suggested, it was a simple fix. Using Docc's checklist, the new TPS needed a small adjustment, and the valve clearances were too tight on one cylinder. Back to awesome 👌.