MartyNZ

Is it a PF3 TPS? There are different options out there, but the 15M ECU is optimized for the 2 rate response curve of the PF3.

Yes, my 2003 black long frame bike is the same: violet top, yellow middle, violet/black bottom wire at TPS.

The TPS should read 157mV when the RH throttle is closed fully, well below the idle setting. I think you would see about 400-500mV at idle. To get the butterfly fully closed, the RH end of the interconnecting rod ball joint needs to be popped off, and the idle stop screw needs to be backed out until it doesn't hold the throttle open. If the voltage reading doesn't change smoothly from below idle to WOT, then it's time to get a new TPS. Don't ignore the tiniest cracks in the rubber tubes between the throttle bodies and inlet stubs. Replacing these should be a 10 year routine job.

Seen at Moto International in Seattle in 2015. A nice-looking Rosso Corsa.

V11 Rear Wheel Spacers v1.pdf Does this help?

The hairs on the back of my hands protect my knuckles from wearing out, but it's a bit hurtful of you to point that out. I hope a Drop Bear rips your bike seat, and your bananas go straight from green to brown

This knuckle dragger has had good results with 3M EC2216 epoxy. It is slightly flexible when cured, and like all epoxies, it has excellent oil resistance (when cured). I was trying to keep things simple for @RichardCAwho tells us that he has limited facilities.

A commentary on this accident and link to the preliminary NTSB report is here: https://asn.flightsafety.org/wikibase/348680

Any idea why the valve bent? I see that the part numbers for valves and guides are the same for a 1100iE and a V11, so maybe there is warning for something to look out for on V11 bikes too? GU37036105 Exhaust valve GU37036005 Intake valve GU13036801 Exhaust valve guide GU14036860 Intake valve guide

That metal tube is a steel roll pin that limits the forward travel of the ratcheting pawl arm. It is important. Later gearboxes have an eccentric pin allowing some adjustment. A tight fit should be enough to hold it in, but since you suspect that it has come out at least twice, you need to try something else. Try degreasing the pin and hole, and tap the pin in with a smear of epoxy resin. Since the gearbox doesn't get hot, any general purpose epoxy will do. Allow 24 hours to cure before adding oil. Have you seen these? : V11 Shift improvement - How to... - Moto Guzzi V11LeMans.com Forum Re-engineering the Shift Spring - How to... - Moto Guzzi V11LeMans.com Forum

I believe that Daytona pillion footrest hangers are used with the TI kit. I also believe that you can mount the TI kit using the std hangers if you want the lower slung look. I hope that you know that those cans are really easy to dent, so look after them. Wait, what's that in the plastic bag?

Finally got time to work on faults. It's winter time here. As Tom suggested, it was a simple fix. Using Docc's checklist, the new TPS needed a small adjustment, and the valve clearances were too tight on one cylinder. Back to awesome 👌.

I hope you can get a brighter colour than matt black if you want to be visible.

Have you downloaded the manuals Greg Bender made available? They're about 10MB. https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_misc_spare_parts_catalogs___exploded_parts_diagrams___parts_fiche.html

If you have intermittent operation of the indicators, then you have bad connections or bad grounds. If both sides flash at the same time after fitting LEDs, you need to modify your dash lamp circuit. See: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/30710-signal-indicators/?do=findComment&comment=291012

Have you looked at this? It might be a RH TB, as it has a TPS on it. But it seems to have the idle-up cable connection that is only on the LH side on my bike. No, I got that bit wrong. https://www.ebay.com/itm/166294418426?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=upabpsgjsow&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=e8jR-wz6R-m&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Here's a link to a picture I posted of my gearbox in neutral before fitting the cover : https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/20201-re-engineering-the-shift-spring/?do=findComment&comment=272756

See repair/overhaul advice here: http://www.largiader.com/tech/valeo/ http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/boschvaleostarter.htm http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/valeo-starter-refresh.954653/ You could also search this site for "valeo". You are not the first guzzi owner to have have starter problems.

Yes, I did that too. I got some genuine oil resistant hose, and found that it was too stiff to install. So the hose is used for coupling a sharp s/steel elbow at the front and a bent up aluminum tube further back. It works well and the uglyness is well hidden.

Nah mate, I bought one for my bike based on your recommendation. I just didn't say thanks. So thanks.

Just for an experiment, can you try reducing your spark plug gaps? I have seen healthy fat blue sparks on removed plugs, but no fire when fitted. Compression pressure can be high enough to prevent a spark jumping the gap. The higher the air pressure at the plug, and the larger the plug gap, the higher the voltage needed to spark. Maybe the new gaskets have raised the compression pressure? I've seen a 1909 Fairbanks Morse engine run with a plug gap of 0.15mm (0.006"), but not with 0.63mm (0.025"). The weak spark from the magneto sparked a 0.6mm plug gap fine when removed. A V11 runs well with a spark plug gap of 0.7mm (0.028"), with 9.8:1 CR, because the factory electronic ignition delivers high voltage with high energy to each plug. Nippon Denso has some basic information on plug gap and compression pressure: Conditions that affect the discharge voltage | Spark and Ignition | Basic Knowledge | SPARK PLUG | Automotive Service Parts and Accessories | DENSO Global Website

Retorquing the heads alone shouldn't stop it from running. Could the ignition timing slip somehow? Does it have points needing adjustment and tightening? Or does it have a sensor that has picked up some metal particles?