MartyNZ

A nice looking Lario for sale in NZ, just up the road from me. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/classic-vintage/auction-2268517827.htm?rsqid=06d6bf4805ad4edeb3b42dd92705feba-001 I see that a commenter suggested that "GN250 valves, with an easy mod to the collet-area, solves any problems with valves dropping through pistons, cheap as chips".

I had the same problem. You need to replace the indicator bulb in the dash panel with a pair of green LEDs back to back, and wire a ground to the back. Otherwise all the indicators will find a ground though that little bulb to the other half of the circuit. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20690-led-blinkers-lr-blinking-at-the-same-time/&do=findComment&comment=238063

It looks like you have cornered the Omron relay market. There can't be any left in the world now apart from in your workshop. How many bikes are you maintaining?

I expect that you still need the ECU and 2 coils for ignition, unless you somehow fit a distributor system. I always thought that EFI was a great way to avoid the "Guzzi Wave" where a rider tries to shake the cramp out of his right hand after hours of pulling against big carb return springs.

Yes, like the French brand bicycle tires I recently bought, made in Malaysia, shipped to New Zealand, from a Spanish retail store.

Ball sockets Mercedes Benz P/N A0009930461, and Volvo P/N 946703 both work. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19266-throttle-body-balance-rod-repair/&do=findComment&comment=208046

I don't have a specific answer for you, but I have had good results doing general cleaning/lubrication of switchgear and connectors, and most important is KiwiRoy's relay base repair. I opened up the handlebar switchgear, cleaned, and lubed using automotive electrical switch grease: Lubriplate DS-ES. Dirt and moisture in switches does bad things. https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/Grease/Multi-Purpose-Greases/DS-ES/DS-ES/DS-ES,-1-75-OZ-TUBE/ KiwiRoy's relay base repair has helped 2 bikes over here. I have found poor spade connector tension the base, and also pushed back base connectors. I put some foam plastic tape wound between the relays to limit movement from vibration. So far, so good. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20534-relay-base-repair/&do=findComment&comment=172857 Some might call this the wild flailing method of maintenance, but sometimes it works.

My air bleed screws are both fully closed.

Are the bar end weights still there? They help damp handlebar vibrations. So do mirrors.

I have a box of helicoils to do the job if you are stuck. Not as good as Timesert, but still work ok. And you can have them NOW if that is important.

The first subject is current drain. You have some good suggestions above already. If you haven't found the leak yet, you need to keep disconnecting things until you do. 20 milliamps is the sort of leakage current you can get across wet and dirty deposits, such as salt spray and road grime on the back of an unprotected starter. Or a switch filled with water. Secondly, for the burned ground wire, the file I attached shows a circuit diagram. It shows one of the two ground leads that should both be in good order. Note that this lead has three connections: regulator, engine/gearbox, & battery. 2.5 sq mm is a good size cable. You may know it as 13 or 14 AWG. Kiwi_Roy has previously made a good suggestion about using an aluminium strap as a bonding lead between the regulator and engine..

V11 Alternator Regulator.pdf It could be internal leakage in the regulator. See last paragraph of page attached.

The Waddington Effect sounds a bit like the story about Mrs Schilling's orifice. She developed a way to allow the early Solex carburettor equipped Rolls Royce Merlin engines to run inverted for longer. I suspect that my bike won't run inverted either. Do I need Beatrice's help? https://www.open.edu/openlearn/science-maths-technology/engineering-technology/beatrice-shilling-1909-1990#

It is called "infant mortality" nowadays, and is a consideration in a "reliability centred maintenance program". It's not the whole story, but the effect is real. https://blog.aopa.org/aopa/2014/02/11/roots-of-rcm/

Have you seen KiwiRoy's picture of what can happen when the main ground comes loose on the gearbox? Could your bike have had that problem sometime in the past? https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20813-electric-problem/&do=findComment&comment=239405 https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19212-brand-new-guzzi-owner-please-chime-in/&do=findComment&comment=206855

Yes, you're right that the brass housing would radiate heat, just in a slightly poorer way than the adjacent aluminium fins. However, it would still be at cylinder head temperature all the time. I think that the plastic housing would be cheaper than brass. My original plastic housing didn't have any heat conductive paste in it either, but after I broke it, I made sure that the replacement housing had some. I think that a temperature sensor should be thermally coupled to the part that you want to measure. If the engine does not run well like that, then there is an opportunity to tune the engine so it does run well. Having an air gap seems to add the chance of ambient air (temp and speed) corrupting the sensor output. I can't see how the brass retains heat. It is thermally coupled to the cylinder head, so is always within a fraction of a degree of the same temp as the head. If you are meaning the sensor is slow to respond to cylinder head temp changes due to the internal air gap, then I agree. I added thermal paste to remove that possibility on my bike, thinking that Luigi was being economical with the thermal paste, just like the lack of lubrication in the steering head bearings. I am really happy with how my bike starts and runs, with good relays (credit Docc), great electrical function & grounds (credit KiwiRoy), awesome engine performance (credit Meinolf), and nice shifting (credit Chuck, Scud & Lucky Phil).

Here is some extracts from the V11 workshop manual, and information about the brass sensor support I fitted to my bike.

The temperature sensors are usually NTC thermistors mounted in a housing. NTC (negative temperature coefficient) means that as the thermistor temperature rises, it's electrical resistance drops. The measurements you made need to account for temperature of the sensor, for example is it in your warm hand or outside in the cold. If you are talking about the air sensor in the air box, it is usually trouble free, unless your friend is in the "pod filter" brigade. Then he needs to mount the air sensor somewhere where it measures only intake air. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19831-air-temp-mod-for-no-air-box/ Since a thermistor circuit is usually low current to avoid self heating, the circuit is sensitive to extra resistance from a bad connection. Unplugging and replugging connectors can help, especially if you clean and treat the connectors with something like DC4 or DeoxIT. I bought packs of 20 thermistors from Aliexpress for about $2 a pack. Let me know if you want a selection sent to you, I know I will never use them all. Note that the rating for thermistors is measured at 25 degC. The illustration below is for the V11 air intake sensor, but the V11 oil temp sensor has the same rating thermistor in a different housing.

DD mounted a sensor I made for him above the rear shock. Pictures and ride report here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19831-air-temp-mod-for-no-air-box/ The extended sensor is just the equivalent thermistor wired to an extended loom, with the last 100mm or so stiffened with a 3mm steel welding rod, covered with heat shrink. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20032-pods-what-size/&do=findComment&comment=222872

When I did a little fuel system maintenance, I found brown fuzz in the fuel tank shutoff screen, in the fuel pump inlet screen, in the injector inlets, and in the regulator screen. The fuzz on the tank screen was so thick that it looked like felt wrapped around the screen. The fuzz probably came from a decomposing fuel filter paper element which was exposed to too much alcohol or injector cleaner. I imagine that if it got thick enough it would restrict engine power, but not necessarily rpm. I cleaned all the fuzz I could find, washed out the tank with hot water and detergent, renewed all the fuel hoses and the fuel filter, back flushed the injectors, and after all that it ran just as well as before.

If you want to clean and backflush your injectors, I could post a little kit to you. (so long as you send it back). The kit is a bit crude, but allows you to flush forward and reverse through the injectors. It can't help if you have worn or mismatched injectors, as mentioned by Luhbo. Those injector retaining screws were fitted with locktite so I drilled off the heads and then got new screws. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/18805-brand-new-scura/&do=findComment&comment=215317 https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20282-fuel-injector-cleaner-yea-or-nea/&do=findComment&comment=229694

The manual says 0.7 - 0.9 mm gap. See extracted page. Shimming V11 RPM Sensor.pdf

Have you seen this post: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/17865-v11-ecu-diagnostics-and-reprogramming/&do=findComment&comment=219395

Good point. You are right, the manuals give the same pump part number for V10, MGS01, & V11. This conflicts with a paragraph from Guzziology; perhaps things changed mid production. The manuals I have give these figures: V11 pressure regulator setting adjustment 3.8 - 4.2 kg/cmq, which is about 3.9 Bar, or 57 psi. The V10 manual says the same. The MGS01 Corsa manual gives the regulator setting as 5.5 Bar, 5.6 kilograms per square centimeter, or 80 pounds per sq inch. All done with a pump with gears 16 mm wide by 26.27 mm dia. On my bike the red light goes out, and it runs fine, so I don't want to change anything.

The hi cam Guzzi engines (v10, Daytona /Centauro /MGS01) have two camshafts, so will need higher oil flow than a single cam V11. The normal running oil pressure and relief valve setting are likely to be similar for all engines with plain crankshaft bearings. Guzzi used a bigger pump on high cam engines to achieve optimum pressure because the oil flow is delivered to more outlets. So to answer your question, there's no value to fitting a hi cam relief valve to a V11. There is a happy range of oil pressure in a piston engine with plain crank bearings. Too low and wear/damage occurs. Too high causes bearing scouring, among other bad things. The relief valve takes care of "too high" when the engine oil is cold or the engine is running at high rpm. The flow of oil lubricates, and carries away heat and wear debris. Also important is the action of suspending moving parts from touching each other. That hydrodynamic wedge in crank bearings is important, and between the cam lobes and followers, it is critical. For me, this all means use good oil, change it regularly with a good filter, and avoid extended idling.