MartyNZ

Docc's experience shows that the standard V11 oil pump is durable and well suited to the V11 engine. If someone is keen to replace it with a different design, then fine, but for normal use, it may not offer any benefits. A higher capacity pump will absorb proportionally more engine power, and surplus pressure will be dumped by the relief valve. The standard pump still has enough capacity to allow use of the oil cooler (if the oil temp gets above 70degC, which is not happening this winter around here). Guzziology says GU 30146400 pump (fitted to the V11) has been around since 1991. It has 16mm width gears instead of earlier 14mm gear pumps, but the oil pressure relief stayed the same. This pump not the same as the 21mm Daytona/Centauro pump, which is not only bigger, but spins faster. Dave Richardson says "these pumps fail at about 35000km because of the lack of a bearing on the driving shaft. A favorite solution was to copy the MGS01". 16mm V11 OEM pump https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=46944&sku=GU30146400&description=Oil+Pump+-+GU30146400 15mm gear aftermarket V11 pump. https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1985

Is your bike SN 344? If so, it was advertised on Trade Me in 2016 with a new RAM clutch in a package included in the sale. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/6728-scura-register/&do=findComment&comment=209802 If that flywheel & clutch was installed, you don't need to worry. Perhaps you could ask your local Guzzi dealer Scooterazzi. They may have done the work. https://scooterazzi.co.nz

Not trying to be picky, and you may know this already: the permanent magnets in the rotor can slowly lose magnetism if not kept inside the stator. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/18967-sorting-out-a-multiple-owner-2003-lemans/&do=findComment&comment=211275

Lithium batteries are a bit fussy about being fully discharged, or charged improperly. Perhaps balance charging would have fixed it? Here is what Shorai says: If using a lead acid style charger, do NOT use if it has an automatic "desulfation mode", "repair", "recondition", or "recovery" mode, which cannot be turned off. Lead acid charger/tenders can be used for regular maintenance charging and then be disconnected after the battery is fully charged. DO NOT leave the lead acid charger connected to store the battery, because most will NOT maintain the proper voltage for lithium batteries. IMPORTANT- if the LFX battery is deeply discharged below 12.86V only a lithium charger with cell balancing can be used to recover the battery. The Shorai BMS01 charger or the Hyperion EOS 720 chargers are the suggested balance type chargers. https://shoraipower.com/charging

I bought Shorai LFX21L6-BS12 battery for my bike. It is a bit bigger than the dealer recommended, but still slightly smaller than the standard battery. It came with lots of different thickness self adhesive foam pads to make it a firm fit in the battery box. It spins the engine faster than the previous battery, so I think it is awesome. The only two downsides are COST, and the need for the Shorai charger for balance charging and storage. It charges fine with the V11 system, and the Ducati regulator hasn't missed a beat (after I fixed some bad connectors and grounds).

Are those Tonti frames hanging on the wall?

Perhaps there is road grime in that anti-rotation block between the swing arm and the caliper mount arm? Or a piston sticking in the slave cylinder? Does the sound change when the rear brake is on?

You might want to think carefully before using any 7000 series alum alloy instead of steel. 7068 is lighter, and easier to machine than steel, but like other 7000 series, it suffers from corrosion and "stress corrosion cracking". That pushrod is in compression and resists buckling, so 7068's great tensile strength is no use to you there. Exposed areas would need anodising and paint but also need a smooth surface for the oil seal. It would be a good choice if you had light clutch springs, and could easily inspect it every few years. If you really wanted to make your own, perhaps hollow 4130 steel or titanium tube with steel tips at each end would be better?

Here is a young NZ woman singing about the frustration of troubleshooting the V11 neutral (green) light and sidestand interlock. Then she goes on to explain the existential joy of owning an Italian motorcycle. At least I think that's what she is saying.

I got a response to my quote request: Wei said "PF3C price is $5.95, and shipping costs 50pcs around $100-120". This is a US$ currency quote. Adding that up: (50 x $5.95) + $120 = $417.50. An order of 50 would probably get the attention of NZ Customs, so I'd have to pay a 15% import tax. So $480 divided by 50 means $9.60 each landed at my place. Then I would have to add packaging/addressing/shipping/beer costs. Shipping from China can take up to 60 days, compared to shipping from NZ to anywhere else takes up to 14 days. This is a bigger outlay than I expected, considering about 20% of the stuff I buy from China is disappointing, and a few things I bought were dysfunctional fakes. Does anyone want take a half share of the costs and risks?

I asked the question of Alibaba; price for 50, plus price to ship to NZ. I will report back.

I dug out my old timing light, pulled the bung out of the RH side of the bell housing, and ran the engine from idle up to 5000 rpm while watching for erratic movement of the flywheel teeth under strobe light. Sure enough, the gear teeth didn't move smoothly, but jumped around erratically. The only reason I can think of that causes that is a worn cam chain & tensioner. The bike has done about 80 000 km. Unless someone can think of another reason, I'm changing these parts this winter.

Good advice above. Especially don't use WD40 on brakes. Scud did a test to show why: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19330-fluids-and-brake-seals-test/&tab=comments#comment-208819 You could also look at https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/18158-rear-brake-binding-and-master-cylinder-brembo-ps11/

No, sorry I didn't make it clear, one single coil sensor detects both TDC & RPM. The phonic wheel has one odd tooth that tells the ECU phase/TDC, and the rest of the teeth tell the ECU the RPM/revolutions. A oscilloscope trace shows one offset pulse per wheel revolution (which is half crankshaft speed).

I don't know what the ECU does with the sensor signal. All I know is the sensor RPM & TDC signals go into the ECU pins 7 & 12, and the ECU output to the tacho is from pin 3. Meinolf has delved into the ECU, so perhaps he can help you.

Mad bunny showed an oscilloscope trace of the sensor output here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20673-mgs01-no-spray-no-spark/ It's a different engine, but the sensor is the same.

I always wondered what a worn cam chain and tensioner could do to affect timing of the camshaft and phonic wheel. Perhaps a loose chain whipping about could cause the glitches you see?

Could this show a defective RPM sensor?

While you have the ignition switch out, it is a good time to clean and lube it's guts. I have some ignition switch grease you can use.

Here is Ventura's NZ website if you want to order something direct from them: https://www.ventura-bike.com/product/moto-guzzi/V-11-Sport and the USA distributor is in California https://www.ventura-bike.com/distributors/13034

Yes. A power commander just alters the engine sensor readings going to the ECU. The ECU then (usually) injects more fuel based on falsified sensor data. There is a PC accessory that uses a wideband sensor to change fuel air ratios on the fly, which is a good thing, if you want to go that far. Some people like PCs, but they can become unreliable as they age. A Meinolf ECU map has improved injector and ignition timing, injector duration, and altitude compensation, so is better than a PC. That's what I chose anyway.

Ya go a couple of hours past the Ettamogah pub towards the black stump. If you get to the old Murphy place you've gone too far. There's bugger all out there. Take water.

I made a female housing using a TPS salvaged from a dead Fiat at a wreckers yard. I cut off most of the TPS, soldered on leads, some epoxy and heatshrink sleeve, and presto. The male plug is cut off the Fiat engine loom to the TPS. It looks like hell, but works well.

Those relays look OK. 30 amps is plenty of capacity. It would be worth getting a set if you have trouble geting Omrons. Try them and report back. That is what this forum is great for. One of the relays needs to be a 5 pin SPDT (also called SPCO) in a V11, and the rest can be 4 pin SPST. The relay sockets can take 5 pin relays in all positions, so you should forget the 4 pin relays. When you have a set of 5 pin relays you can swap then around on the side of the road when things on the bike go quiet or dark. Some people call this swapping relays trick "troubleshooting" but when it is getting dark and rain is threatening, the troubleshooting can look more like "wild flailing" to an observer. Just say to yourself "at least it isn't a Harley". Seriously though, as Docc said, the Omrons work well, and the relay base repair suggested by Kiwi_Roy solved a problem on my bike. After tightning all the spade connectors in the relay bases (a really fiddly job) some intermittent problems disappeared. I put dielectric grease on all the sockets before I put the relays back. Then I put some foam tape between the relays, thinking that it would reduce the movement of the relays in their sockets.

I lubed my rubber bits. I sprayed the cush rubbers and the pockets with molybdenum disulfide dry lube spray. Greg Field wrote about a good idea you can do to the cush rubbers here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/11820-making-a-cushier-cush-drive/&tab=comments#comment-125587 I think this link might be interesting too: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20331-cush-drive-lubrication/&tab=comments#comment-230956 For the spline to the wheel, you might think about Kluber Staburags NBU 30 PTM. BMW part #. 07559062476. Expensive but good.