MartyNZ

So, Roper, you started with an inspiring comment, which gradually became advice on picking a pub fight. Awesome story telling there.

Brexit is still mithering on 2 years later, with UK politicians wanting to have their cake and eat it. New Zealand just had some bad news last Friday too. Our biggest mass shooting ever. A white supremacy nut killed 51 citizens and hurt lots more. The police caught him while he was on the way to kill more, within 21 minutes, without firing a shot. Good job NZ Cops! Then the NZ government, within 6 days, outlawed military style semi automatic rifles, and high capacity magazines. Now I'm a gun owner, but I think NZ failed badly not to copy Australia's lead on gun control 2 decades ago. Good job NZ Government! Even though it is too late for 51 citizens. Now we need to get to work on the reporting and treatment of haters who enable/encourage mass shooters.

Docc is right (again). You need an electronic flasher [21] which will flash the indicator lights irrespective of current draw from the lamps. I did this, and found another problem. The instrument panel [6] turn signal light is connected to both left & right indicator light circuits, so if you have all four indicators fitted with LED lamps, all four lamps will flash when you indicate left or right turn. That [6] indicator provides a path to ground via the side opposite the side you selected. The fix is to replace the little incandescent bulb in the [6] panel with a facing pair of LEDS, with a common ground. Until I follow my own advice, I have only LEDs in the front indicators, same as Docc's bike. Note that I left out a wire in the diagram below. The red wire should go from the connector to the RH indicator lights.

Injector cleaning by adding a cleaner to the fuel will help by disolving varnish/wax deposits, so can give good results. However some insoluable particles which get past the filter can lodge in the injectors, and only back-flushing or disassembly can clean that. I had brown fuzz in the inlet screens of my injectors, so I suspected some could be inside the injectors. I made two injector back-flushing kits, thanks to some help from Scud, and can mail you mine if you want to use it. ...and the 5 Dec 2016 post here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/18805-brand-new-scura/&do=findComment&comment=215317https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/18805-brand-new-scura/&do=findComment&comment=215317

Hi Nigel, I see a reference to a supplier here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20337&do=findComment&comment=231113 You may have to paint the red finish black for your bike.

As I understand it, you need several workshop manuals for the MGS01 Corsa. One for the original MGS01, and then another for the MGS01 Corsa which just covers the differences, but also states "the following information should be intended as variant to the Workshop manual - engine - for version V10 Centauro". The MGS01 Corsa manual refers to use of the V11 gearbox & rear transmission, so that leads to another manual. Gregory Bender made these manuals available here: - http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_misc_workshop_manuals___shop_manuals___service_manuals.html

When Pete says something, it pays to listen. He has worked on Moto Guzzis before. Looking at your first post, it seems like pic 1 oscilloscope trace shows a lower sensor voltage and lower speed than pic 2. The SENS813 is an inductive pickup, which would put out lower voltage pulses if the gap to the phonic wheel was large. I think you could try reducing the SEN813 sensor gap to the minimum, and temporarily leave the o-ring seal out, just to check. As I see it, the sequence of events in the ECU are: 1. ECU Power on, self test, sensor check, and pump prime. 2. The ECU then waits until SEN813 pulses reach a "run" threshold. 3. The ECU will then turn on coils and injectors as instructed by the BIN file program. If the SEN813 sensor is faulty, or if the gap is too large, the ECU will not power the coils and injectors. As Chuck mentioned, electrical connectors can cause problems, and it is a good idea to remove and clean the connector to the ECU. What does your instrument panel RPM display show during cranking when it is sparking and not sparking? Be aware too that your manual says "If in the wrong position, the bank angle sensor may lead to sudden engine stalling". You mentioned this at the start, but you could try disconnecting it.

thanks Marty. but i already tried to air gap clearance. I have 5 each size shim. Can I suggest checking the gap by putting a bead of modeling clay or plasticine on the tip of the sensor, installing it when a tooth is lined up centred in the hole, removing and measuring the thickness. I know that it is easy to get that gap wrong, with shims and o-ring in the way.

From your video, we can see good spark when the engine cranks without compression, but then with the plugs in, there is no spark delivered from the coils. There are two changes to the engine from cranking with the plugs in or out. 1. The engine turns over slower with the plugs in. 2. The battery voltage is lower while the starter is working hard to crank with the plugs in. For effect 1, perhaps your SEN813 sensor is out of adjustment. Also called phase/revolution sensor, crank position sensor, or timing sensor. The workshop manual will give a specific clearance for the sensor from the phonic (toothed) wheel. If the gap is too great, the sensor voltage pulses will be low, below the threshold set in the ECU, so the ECU will not allow a start. This clearance is reduced by removing shims. I know of an '02 California that ran fine for 4 hour trip, then refused to start until the sensor clearance was reset. . This picture attached is for a V11. There should be something similar for your bike. Shimming V11 RPM Sensor.pdf For effect 2, consider ground connections. I know you checked the ground wire, but the ECU is sensitive to battery voltage. A poor connection at the battery, the gearbox, the frame, or pins 23 & 24 on the ECU could interfere with it's function. I'm assuming that you have a 15M ECU from the picture. The change in starter load between "plugs in" and "plugs out" will be matched by a change in voltage sensed by the ECU, and resistance in any connection can make a difference. If you can't fix it, and you want to get rid of it, just ship the whole bike to me. It would look good in my garage.

Nice try, no cigar. More elevation means richer mixture. In your normally aspirated airplane, you have to keep leaning the mixture as you climb. Chuck is right again. Scud asked a similar question here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19977 GuzziMoto is right too. The V11 ECU auto corrects the mixture as altitude changes. Yes, that little black button on the top corner of the ECU.

My 03 V11 Sport runs well without any pinging. I use 95 RON fuel, Meinolf's ECU map #42, and Titanium cans with everything else stock. It also ran well without pinging on the Titanium ECU programming. See https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19682&do=findComment&comment=214669for explanation of fuel ratings. The fuel I use doesn't have any alcohol, but as I understand it, ethanol improves the octane rating, so should be more resistant to pinging than straight petroleum fuel. When I first got my bike, it had NGK BPR5ES plugs instead of the correct heat rating BPR6ES. A hotter plug than specified can cause pinging. You should check your plugs, look for intake air leaks, and correct lean fuel trim, all of which can cause pinging, along with other ills. And as Docc says, the tune up is mandatory. Don't miss a step. I had to do the tune up twice before I was happy with my bike.

Try disconnecting the fuel hose at the regulator at the RH side of the tank. You should get a squirt of fuel out of the hose every time you turn on the key. If not, you have a supply problem. Tank valve, pump, filter, kinked hose. If you do decide to remove the injectors, you could try this: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18805&page=18&do=findComment&comment=215324

I would pick that swarf out. Then if you are concerned about the dent, poke a rod (like a philips screwdriver) into the bore, then biff the rod with the fitting resting on soft wood to dress out some of the dent. You will need a hammer .The dent on the tip is not really important, as the sealing surface is further down on the bevel. 68C gave good advice above. The cadmium plating protection will remain despite any rework, unless you do some sanding/machining. That nice gold colour is actually a passivation treatment over the cad plating. A friend once cad plated his Norton Commando brake disk because he didn't like rust on the cast iron. Obviously the pads quickly rubbed most of the plating off, but the disk didn't show any rust for years afterwards. Maybe some cad was smeared into pores of the cast iron, or maybe the remaining cad on the edges was enough to galvanically protect the iron. Cadmium plating is good stuff.

A friend here is building a '72 Norton engine to put into a flattrack racer he is making. He recommends Jim Schmidt at jsmotorsport.com for supply of improved Norton parts. He tells me that the 850 has relatively short con-rods, so the rods see undesirably high angularity. Jim sells pistons with the piston pin position slightly higher, and matching slightly longer Carillo rods, which are claimed to be more durable at higher rpm. Lucky Phil is right when he says that the original aluminium alloy rods have a limited life. Forging helps improve fatigue life, so does compressive stress peening, but no matter how it is made, alum rods will fail eventually. High rpm and high loads make that inevitable failure happen sooner. A bigger problem for that engine is the position of the oil pickup at the bottom of the crackcase. At sustained high rpm, the oil collects in an area further back from the pickup, the pump gulps air, and the big ends fail. That, along with the popped seal, may have added to the cause of your engine failure. My friend's fix is to apply the scoop shape to both sides of the crankcase, and reposition the pickup point to force more oil to the pump. A lot of work, but I think he enjoys the welding and machining involved. He is also making his own 270 degree crank for the engine. I think that this is so that it sounds more like a Guzzi.

A screenshot of that page:

Does this help?

I thought I'd check some numbers, since I can't understand the warning on the Ducati Energia invoice. I pulled out a Repco seven stage battery charger model NS-12V8A, part no RBC87S, common in NZ and Australia. I hooked it to a light truck battery, through long cables and a 100ohm resistor, trying to imitate a badly sulphated battery. Charger output measured at the charger was pulses at half second intervals of 12.48 V (low) to 14.78 V (high). Charge current was almost unreadable pulses on a 10A meter. The voltage at the battery (upstream of the resistor) was steady at 12.62V. Removing the 100ohm resistor changed things a lot. The charger switched to Bulk Charge mode, supplying 6A at 14.5V. My conclusion is that this particular charger cannot harm a Ducati regulator if it is left connected to the battery. 15V will not challenge the 200V rating mentioned by Kiwi_Roy.