MartyNZ

I suspect that the Energia warning to disconnect during charging is due to some chargers having a desulfation mode. That mode applies higher voltage pulses in an attempt to restore sulfated plates. This regulator manufacturer seems to be unsure that their blocking diodes can withstand the desulfation pulses. There is no industry standard on pulse voltage, duration or frequency in desulfation mode. It is a partially effective but relatively brutal electrical process, so perhaps it would be best to disconnect the ground (- ve) terminal from a battery if you were going to use a desulfation charger. Why disconnect the ground terminal rather than the + positive? It avoids sparks if/when you touch the ECU with the spanner. Don't ask how I know this.

It's fine to charge a battery while it is connected in the bike if it has the original regulator. A good quality intelligent charger will avoid overcharging and possibly harming the battery. Docc has written a lot about the right way to charge an AGM battery. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18838 I bought a Shorai balance charger for the Shorai LFX21L6-BS12 battery in my bike, and it is designed to stay connected in maintenance mode, while the battery is still in the bike. The Ducati regulator hasn't missed a beat (after I fixed some bad connectors and grounds). The regulator blocks reverse current discharge from the battery with the engine stopped, and it can do this easily, whether it faces battery 12volts or charger 14volts. Regulators go bad from high voltage spikes (bad earths, intermittent output connections, poor 30A fuse contact), or internal circuit board corrosion damage. A battery charger won't hurt the standard regulator. ...and I see that Kiwi_Roy has already answered a similar question here https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19672&page=6&do=findComment&comment=235824

Hello Blight, My bike is exactly the same as your video. It is bad enough that riding slowly in first gear is uncomfortably jerky. All the backlash is between the output splines of the bevel box and the rear wheel. I thought the same as you, that the bevel box was failing, but no. You could check that backlash again with the rear wheel off to see if yours is the same.. See also https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20324 I tried installing the rear wheel after applying mould release spray and aluminised epoxy to the spline. After the epoxy cured, I greased the spline, refitted the wheel, and rode the bike. Much better, but a very temporary solution. It proved to me that the only fix is to replace the cush drive spline plate, and the crown wheel & pinion set. Expensive. Actually I bought a spline plate from Moto International (before they closed) and a 2nd hand low km bevel box from eBay Italy. How will I slow the spline from wearing again? Use a good layer of spline grease like Staburags NBU 30 PTM on it. I have already drilled the cush drive rubbers, and removed half the rubber pucks, to make the drive cushier. That is an idea from the Guzzi expert Greg Field, and I think it will prolong the life of all the splines from the clutch all the way back.

Knumbnutz posted pictures of a welded hole here https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19648 Drew, it will be interesting to hear from you about what you do (just plug a hole, or plug a large hole and add smaller holes) and the results you get.

Along with Docc's advice, see Tom M's post https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17835 for a pretty good answer. Also search for Marzocchi damping. There has been lots of discussion on this in the past.

The ECU takes an assumed value for temperature when a sensor is unplugged. If it runs better unplugged, then tuning is bad, it is probably running too lean. You could try using Guzzi Diag to set the fuel trim to zero, or if it is already there, try +10, or so. I think you will need to connect the sensor and clear ECU faults before you can adjust fuel trim. Guzzi calls that sensor on the head the "Oil Temp Sensor", and says in the workshop manual "the ECU uses the oil temp signal to adjust..." as the signal is added to the inputs from other sensors to optimise injection duration and ignition timing. The bike will behave better at all ranges of engine and outside temperature if you leave it connected and fix the tuning. The attachment shows the air temp sensor in the air box, but the oil temp sensor is just as important to the ECU. BTW, if you have a power commander, try running the bike without it. It, or the connectors to it, can go bad.

The old plug lead I keep as a spare in the monkey paw trap measures 670mm long, but I don't know if it was left or right. The leads will be different lengths left to right due to cylinder offset. Two 1m lengths will do the job. The plug caps screw on to one end, but you will need the crimp terminals for the coil end. BTW, the white writing on the leads will wipe off with isopropyl alcohol (actually several wipes). Have you tried that for your white splotches? The NGK leads I bought came with red sleeving as well, which is good to put where the leads chafe on the frame and throttle bodies. Heat shielding is not necessary with silicone insulation, but abrasion protection is.

Mate, New Zealand is a different country than Australia, if you are talking about that Dec 2016 shipment. Kiwis are a bit sensitive about the distinction.

Hi Rob,There are a couple of pictures here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20117&page=2&do=findComment&comment=227185 https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19547&page=4&do=findComment&comment=218290 Check that the rear wheel spins freely, and you should be good.

I have a bolt PN GU37638605 you can have, if that's what you really want. PM me. But first, have you read the postings below? https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19107&hl=locking https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19655&do=findComment&comment=214039 The reason I have this spare bolt PN GU 37638605 is because I took Scud's advice, & replaced it with an improved bolt PN GU 01638630, and locking pin PN GU 02466900. This improved part is available at Moto International & AF1 $45, Harper's $43, and Stein Dinse €43. Not cheap, but then nor is a damaged rear brake.

Looks like a good idea. Tell me, have you tested fluid flushed out of a caliper and compared it fluid in the reservoir? I always wondered how much the fluid mixes in a non-ABS brake system.

Here you are Docc. The ECU on my bike was a Titanium Kit ECU with this ident: IAW 15M PF3C 61601.045.00 3D02VS9G Now it has been overwritten with Meinolf's program #42, which has this ident: IAW 15M PF3C 61600.537.01 #58ZZP8-

Is there nothing this guy can't do? A great motorcycle rider, an accomplished mechanic, an excellent story teller, a spring manufacturing production manager (with global reach), and now a published author. Wow.

Try the standard Rosso Mandello map posted here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19609Even better, you could ask an expert for an even better map. See Meinolf's offer here https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19652&page=1&do=findComment&comment=214733 He has maps which are in use by many people on this forum. He has improved my bike a LOT.

I set my valves to 0.25mm (0.010") on both inlet and exhaust on the advice of Meinolf. Hot idle smoothed out & I'm happy with the results. At the same time, I did some other things that could have helped: -loaded Meinolf's ECU bin file #43, -set the ECU fuel trim to zero, -fully closed the air bleed screws, -correctly set the crank position sensor clearance, -renewed the rubber hoses from the throttle bodies to the heads, -made sure there are no exhaust leaks at the cylinder head, -synchronised the throttle bodies -back flushed the injectors. You probably don't need to do all those steps on your bike, but mine has more than 80,000km (50,000 miles) on the clock, same as yours. I know that I will have to bush the worn throttle shafts soon, as there is slop there, and the engine is sensitive to air leaks.

After looking at your video, I wonder if the washer or inner race was left out during the last tyre change. It should not move that much. See the parts breakdown item 31 & 33 shown here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20168&page=3&do=findComment&comment=226883 If those parts are missing then you have found your problem.

Martin, (great name that), you might find the links below helpful if you mean the needle roller in the RH side of the bevel box. If so, you should be aware that the inner race length is important, as it is part of the axle spacer stack.https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19514&page=2&do=findComment&comment=216691 https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15908&page=10&do=findComment&comment=231727

I'll post a standard map in the fileshare section when I get home this weekend. Rosso Mandello Original BIN.bin

I would use 2-stroke oil instead of water, just in case it gets sucked into the engine. I used auto transmission fluid (ATF) for the same reason. It is just thick enough to allow time to adjust a badly out of synch engine without sucking it into the engine. And it is red.

See here:https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19514&page=2&do=findComment&comment=217129And here: http://ca-cycleworks.com/pf3c

A new Side Stand part number GU01432190 costs about $80 from Harper's or AF1, and €80 from Stein Dinse. My bike has a flat alum alloy sole plate added by a previous owner, and it is getting worn thin. It is held on with 2 countersunk screws. Maybe it is time for me to get a new leg, and add a sole plate to it. Then it should last a while.

I think you had more than one problem.A melted 30A fuse (but not blown) can ONLY be caused by electrical resistance between the fuse holder contacts and the fuse. Cleaning the contacts, then fitting the fuse with dielectric grease will help. A maxi fuse holder is better, or you could use a CB like Docc did. See https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19672 The connections of the yellow wires can be replaced by crimp connectors & heat shrink sleeves to make better connections. On my bike the wires are long enough that I could cut and re-terminate several times if required, so I used permanent crimp sleeves. The fuse melting, and bad connections on the yellow wires will reduce charging current, so the battery will discharge over time. However, a bad relay can stop the engine without warning. Those mini relays seem to be short lived, so carrying spares, and discarding any troublesome relays seems to work for me.

I wrote a comment about that back in post 27 of this topic, along with adding a grease nipple.I got a bolt that was too long, cut it to length, then threaded it the minimum amount needed.

The symptoms may be caused by a bad capacitor. Electrolytic capacitors are the 2nd most common components to go bad in older electronic circuits, after "dry" solder joints. If you are handy with a 25w soldering iron, and have lead/tin solder (not lead free) you may be able to repair it.If it doesn't work now, you can't make it worse. A fist full of electrolytic caps cost about $20, just match the capacitance (mF or uF), meet or exceed the working voltage, and match the polarity. All 3 are marked on the heat shrink covering. New caps are often physically smaller than the originals, which is ok as long as you can wire it in. A bulged end is a sure sign it is bad. Remelting all the solder joints so that they are shiny, not grey, can cure dry joints. You might also check for "chip creep" where IC chips work their way out of sockets. Press the chips down into the sockets after taking care of static.

I've got those sump and spacer gaskets if you need them in a hurry.