MartyNZ

There may be some additional helpful information here:https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20386&page=3&do=findComment&comment=232303

After you refitted the tank, have you checked that a hose or wiring loom is not touching any throttle body linkages? And checked that the fuel pressure regulator is not nudging the TPS out of position?

Like Docc says, that resistance change you measured is a problem. See the test graph picture on the Web page http://ca-cycleworks.com/pf3c Things will be better with a new TPS.

When it is running on the RH cylinder, is the LH not running at all, or just weakly? A hand on the head or near the exhaust header should tell you if you have a cold cylinder. If the LH cyl is running weakly, it may be that the throttle bodies need synchronizing. See https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19610. If synch is good, then this is a puzzle. The ignition coils, injectors, and fuel pump all get +12 volts from the battery via the rear most relay, so it seems less likely to be the problem. The coils & injectors get their ground from the ECU, so possibly unplugging and cleaning the ECU connector could help.

Hi Walterg. You say that you have a 2003 LeMans with an IAW 15RC ECU. I believe that bike originally had a IAW 15M ECU. Darryl & I found that GuzziDiag needs to know what ECU it is connected with, but you can only tell it by setting the model of bike. If you tell GuzziDiag that it is connecting to a 2003 LeMans, it expects an IAW 15M ECU. Try setting it to 2004 Nero Corsa, or similar model which had a IAW 15RC fitted originally. See https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17865&page=16&do=findComment&comment=219192

I know that you want to regrease the steering head bearings before you go.

You should know that fiber lock nuts have not been used for decades, so reading about an event on a vintage plane is not useful. Nylon locking (nyloc) in your axle nut is much better, and more durable. You can check how good the locking is by measuring the "run-on' torque. As the nylon bites on the threads, the increased torque is measurable. Perhaps another 5-10 Nm. I bet there is an online calculator to help. Having low run-on torque means that you should discard the nut, or use alternative locking methods.

You have some options. 1. Leave the washer out. Not good practice, but better than having the nut come off. 2. Get a thinner washer. Any washer. Or make a washer with a rotex punch. 3. Get a thinner nut, or grind the existing nut thinner. 4. Torque the nut to the standard torque listed for that size, ride, carry tools, and check the witness marks you made. 1 mile, then 5 miles, then 20 miles. If no rotation of the nut, you should have adequate locking. 5. Bore a hole through the nut and axle, install split pin. To my mind #2 is best, and only 2 & 5 could be a permanent fix.

The bevel box I am overhauling will have a little NAS516-1 recessed grease nipple in the housing which will allow me to pump an occasional small squirt of grease into the cavity between that needle bearing and captive axle spacer washer.

Before you buy bits for your restoration, it is worth your time to look at the parts book for the 2004 model V11. This gives you part numbers for improved (but more expensive) oil seals made of Viton.

I bet your local machine shop could grind and sleeve that seal surface for less than the $1000 for a new crown wheel.

That might be a sequence thing: - years of slowly rusting in a oil free cavity, then wet with oil from a seal that begins to leak.

Yes I think so. An oil leak at the big seal on the LH side of the box would not let oil into the cavity that the axle passes through, only onto your wheel. But an oil leak at the RH seal would flood the axle cavity and come out at the axle on the RH side, and around the spline on the LH side (then out onto your wheel). That spacer should be dry (or rusty like the spare bevel box I'm cleaning up). Was your axle wet with oil as you removed it?BTW, LH & RH are ALF (aft, looking forward)

Pic 5 - View inside housing bore

Pic 4 - Close View of Bearing, Seal, and floating Axle Spacer Washer. The comment in this picture is not quite right. I used a punch you can see in picture 1 to reach around the spacer washer and seal, to just catch the edge of the bearing outer race. When the housing is heated to about 100°C, the bearing will move with progressive taps around the diameter.

Pic 3 View of Bearing, Seal, & floating Axle Spacer & floating Axle Spacer Washer.

Pic 2 - Bevel Box open.

Pic 1 - RH Needle Roller Outer Race removal.

Which bearing do you mean? I have a bevel box in bits at the moment, so I can powder coat the housing. I may have at picture to help.

OEM Part Name: Front Brake Disk. If your disks are thinner than 3.6mm, then it is time. Moto Guzzi Part Number: GU 01613330 Replacement Part Part number: AP8133781 Brand: Sunstar. "Vespa APC Aprilia Derbi Gilera Piaggio Scarabeo genuine spare parts" written on packaging. Source: AF1 Racing https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=5809 Differences from OEM: Less spokes, looks like it should be lighter, offset looks the same, will report back after I fit them. Other Comments: Much cheaper than Brembo disks, even with $83 shipping to NZ. Fit fine and work well.

Be aware of this cautionary tale: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15937Like swooshdave said, you don't want any blasting grit inside your engine.

LED indicators are good, but you might need to fit an electronic flasher. Also you may need to rewire the green indicator on the instrument panel to stop all 4 indicators flashing together. The smoke lens part no GU06753700 is $9.50 at Moto International in Seattle. http://www.motointernational.com/store/parts/turn-signal-lens-

After distributing a few springs in New Zealand, I saw what a chore it must have been for Scud distributing all those shift springs, and the same for Chuck with the last batch of levers. I'd like to suggest that one guy could buy the next set of shift levers from Chuck (if Chuck wants to make more) and that guy handles all the ordering and posting to others. I bet Chuck dreads "packing & fondling" and retail sales more than making stuff.

I'm not Kiwi_Roy, but I wonder if the problem comes from an intermittent connection in the circuit from the neutral switch, sidestand relay (#3), run switch, ecu relay (#4)? I had some relay base sockets pushed back which made intermittent contact at awkward moments.

Does it stop above 2000 rpm when it is in neutral too?