MartyNZ

As Scud says, there is an escape hole in the grease cavity on every driveshaft. Normally the drive shaft length extends and compresses a little during suspension travel. This is the reason that the sliding spline exists, and it needs lubrication. I can think of two reasons why you need that little hole. 1. If the grease cavity was full of grease without an escape path, then it is possible to get a "hydraulic lock", which would make something bend or break at the next bump on the road. (at a guess, I'd say the gearbox top mount). 2. Grease is mostly oil mixed with a thickener, so as the oil seeps away, the remaining thickener needs to be flushed away by fresh grease. That little hole allows that flushing to happen.

Yes, the dipped/low headlight beam is directed down and left in NZ, Australia, Japan, Southern Africa, UK. Most European & American countries have the low beam offset to the right. In an H4 headlight with an incandescent/halogen bulb, this low beam deflection is done by the headlight lens. Other than pointing the headlight beam at a wall, the only way to tell if an H4 light is for LH or RH traffic is to look for the little arrow molded into the lens. If you have the arrow, you are good for LH traffic in Scotland. At least you are good until brexit kicks in, and Scotland secedes to join the EU. Then you will have to get serious about the metric system. Don't throw away your km speedo. Just because the British invented wonderful units of measure like Hogsheads per fortnight for fuel flow, it is not a good reason for Scotland to keep using it. . Some LED lamps also have some offset built into them. I needed to "adjust" the H4 adapter that came with a Chinese LED lamp to fix the weird low beam pattern that only suited RH traffic. The combination of RH lamp & LH lens made a slanted mess instead of a beam.

Lorenzoni says: GU98082445 VITE TE M8x45 http://shop.lorenzoni.it/prodotto.php?id=85&page=25

There are still a few of those head guards available in Australia. Here is picture of Joe Kenny's "standard with holes" head guard I got for my bike. There are a few left of other versions in Motociclo in Sydney. Link below. http://www.motociclo.com.au/products/product-type/general-service/general-accessories/crash-barsengine-protect Apparently they bought the last of Joe Kenny's stock. Their website is a bit average, but if you message me, I may be able to help you get some.

I know exactly how you feel. If you want to repair the can, there is a really helpful guide here: http://www.v11lemans...524#entry146073 The pictures are a victim of photo bucket price gouging, but the words may be enough. Drill out the end cap rivets at both ends, cut the silicon adhesive securing the glass wool, slip the skin of the can over a 100mm dia pipe or bar, and gently fettle back into shape. Easy.

Some lovely pictures that Grant Vinten collected here. Girls and Bikes. http://v2guzzi.blogspot.co.nz/

A red spine frame is for sale in Germany, 190 EUR. http://www.ebay.com/itm/302443841340

Perhaps your bike is in this pic?

A bit more information about this bike. Michael Noonan, who built it, says it's a 1982 Moto Guzzi V35, fitted with among other things, a Subaru supercharger. The supercharger is from a Subaru Vivio (660 cc), and is a Roots type Aisin AMR300 running 24 psi boost pressure. The speed record class is MPS PBG 350 (Modified Partial Streamlining / Pushrod Supercharged Gasoline / 350 cc). In the facebook video link below he claims 119.9 MPH (193 kph) average speed from a pass each way. Not too shabby for a V35! http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=87430.0 https://www.facebook.com/groups/327216784009013/permalink/1566551096742236/

The 24th Tattley Rappet Moto Guzzi rally is on over the long weekend 20-23 Oct 2017. This year it is in Kiapoi, near Christchurch, New Zealand. I know at least 2 local V11s will be there. And me.

If you want to remove and clean the injectors, here are a couple of references. Those injector retaining screws can be very tight though.http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19795 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18805&page=17&do=findComment&comment=215317 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19766

Any grease is much better than no grease, and that Lucas grease seems like good stuff. The grease can't come back out of the grease nipples, as there is a tiny ball & spring inside the nipple to stop that happening. Before greasing, you should wipe the nipples clear of road grime to avoid driving grit inside along with the grease. I pump enough grease into the joints so that you can see clean fresh grease oozing past the seals of all four cups. This flushes out old dried grease, moisture, and wear debris. However my method means a tedious wiping job to clean out all the surplus grease that would otherwise fling off and make a mess. The spline in the middle of the shaft doesn't need so much grease, as you can't flush the spline with new grease, it just comes out the end of the shaft (and makes more mess). The front joint is a bit tricky to get a grease gun onto. See http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18602for advice on how to swear.

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19241

See Czakky's similar experience here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19801 You may have a different problem, but there was some clever suggestions on that topic. Also, do you have cables and GuzziDiag? It will tell you if the ECU has detected a bad sensor.

It's possible to swap the low voltage leads to the coils.

No, a bad regulator ground will make the output voltage go high. The regulator tries to maintain 14v between the +VE reference in the lighting circuit and the ground it is connected to. A poor ground means the regulator case floats above 0 volts. I tried to explain it here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19672&page=2&do=findComment&comment=214421 Before you toss your regulator you need to read this thread. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19672&page=2&do=findComment&comment=214421 It is a chore to do this work, but clean bright metal makes good electrical connections. You can't tell if the connection is good unless you disassemble it. Even old star washers can develop corrosion under them, and cease doing their job. Especially if dust, moth guts, and rain collect there. Then you need to abrade, and assemble the connections using a moisture and air excluding grease. I use DC-4, Kiwi_Roy prefers vaseline. Either is better than nothing.

Good question. The answer is yes, it is possible to damage the standard leads and coils. If the plug gap is too large to allow the plug to fire, the voltage keeps rising in the coil until it reaches it's maximum. It may not discharge anywhere, and the voltage may just fall again. Or if there is some weakness or contamination in the high tension/secondary circuit, then it may flash to ground somewhere other than at the plug. Either way, you will feel a misfire. If you get a flash to ground, this electric arc could pass over or through insulation, burning stuff in its path, leaving a carbon track. This track can become a conductive path with less resistance than the plug gap if the misfire persists. Dirt and moisture make things worse. Usually we don't know that this has happened, just that a coil or lead causes a misfire, so it gets replaced. I don't know for sure, but you are probably safe with plug gaps up to 2.5mm (0.100"). As an aside, there was an old 1909 Fairbanks Morse stationary engine which wouldn't run, so I was asked to look at it. The "trip lever" magneto gave a good spark over 0.64mm (0.025") plug gap with the plug outside the engine. After lots of messing about, an expert suggested a plug gap of 0.15mm (0.006"). Then it started right away. This shows the effect that plug gap can have on spark, even at a low compression ratio of 5:1. Luckily modern ignition systems have energy to spare. I've been thinking about Luhbo's remark too. My daughter's Toyota has that waste spark system - two coils and four plugs in a four cylinder engine. Last tune-up, I took out plugs which had 2 massive earth electrodes. I then fitted iridium plugs, but my plan is to swap the paired plugs over after 20,000 km, so that the electrode erosion is evened out. The old timers who worked on vintage British cars, which had positive earth, said that spark plugs lasted longer on positive earth cars than the negative earth cars. I'm sure that is because of the effect you mentioned. The whole world standardized on the wrong polarity (if plug erosion was the only concern).

This picture shows the effect of electrode shape on firing voltage. There is lots written about electrode shape if you are interested in reading more. The workshop manual tells us this: "The ignition is an inductive discharge static type with dwell control in the power modules (incorporated in the ECU) and a mapping of the spark advance stored in the ECU. The coils receive the commands from the ECU I.A.W. 15 M, which processes the spark advance, through the power modules". This picture shows an example of the timing of coil saturation relative to spark plug firing. Gstallons, you are right when you say "igniton is triggered when trigger device goes from a closed to open condition". This is when the saturated low voltage coil current drops very quickly back to zero, which generates high voltage in the secondary coil. This event does not have a label on the graph, but I believe that it is at about -0.05 ms. The KiloVolts reached before the plug fires depends a lot on the dielectric breakdown strength of the air in the plug gap between the electrodes. * High compression pressure > higher voltage. * Wider plug gap > higher voltage. * Rich mixture > lower voltage. * Pointy electrode (or sharp edges on standard plug electrodes) > lower voltage.

Given your experience with the 1150GS and if I understand correctly, you are using NGK BPR6EIX iridium plugs in your V11, can you let us know how your V11 performs compared to the NGK BPR6ES standard plugs. Opening the plug gap, and raising the compression (assuming Mike Rich's pistons do this), both have the effect of making the HT voltage rise higher before the plug fires. On the other hand, NGK BPR6EIX iridium plugs have a thin centre electrode which will let the plug fire at a lower point in the voltage rise. You will only know the effects of plug gap by trying different gaps. If opening the gap too far causes a misfire, then the HT voltage is finding an easier path to ground somewhere else. Then you need to either close the plug gap a little, or improve the HT circuit insulation by cleaning the coils or renewing the leads. I like your plan to optimise everything you can. Tunerpro, with an air/fuel data logger, in the obvious way to optimise fuelling and ign timing, but I haven't tried it yet. Have you thought about writing a "how to" for Tunerpro? It could be something that would interest others. Meinolf mentioned a method of making adjustments to valve timing here:http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19557&do=findComment&comment=212299 BTW, if your heart is set on getting those red plug caps from Motociclo in Australia that Footgoose mentioned, my experience is that their website is a bit manky. Let me know if you would like me to call them to get them shipped. I speak fluent 'strayan. Edit...Oh, and I just checked, the standard plug recommended for the V11, the NGK BPR6ES, has a 5K Ohm resistor built in. So a stock V11 has a 5K suppressor cap, and a 5K suppressor plug, 10K total. https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9482

Actually I don't think your plan to reduce HT circuit resistance will change the spark enough to notice, but it won't cost much to try it out. If the resistor plug is 5k Ohms and the resistor cap is 5k Ohms, then we are considering the difference between 5k & 10k in the HT circuit. 20,000 volts through 10k implies 2 Amps, and 20,000 volts through 5k implies 4 Amps of current. However, Ohms law doesn't apply because of the coil in the circuit. The actual current through your leads is zero until the voltage rises enough to flash over the plug gap, at 8 times atmospheric pressure. After flashover, the current is closer to 0.01 Amps (10ma). So plug and cap resistance have a small effect on spark duration, but no effect on firing voltage or the energy in your spark. The things limiting your spark current are the coils and ECU. Inductive reactance (the resistance to current change) in the coils has a big effect, along with the ECU's ability to deliver 12 volts to the LT side of the coils with a very fast rise/fall time. If you want more power, then the usual mods are better, but much more work. I'd suggest starting with Docc's tune-up, then look at Guzzi Diag as the best return on your efforts. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19610 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17865

Hi Frank, PM me your email address, and I will send you the file. But first, you should make sure that your virus scanner is not overly sensitive, and deleting the file. I think someone on this forum reported something similar when he tried to run the reader. Try opening the zip file on another computer, or after temporarily disabling your anti-virus program. If it is your anti-virus program causing the problem, then it will also delete the file I send to you as an email attachment.

Um, no, but I can give you some 35mm film.

what is That?Footgoose, don't worry about the Flux Capacitor that JRD mentioned. You only need that optional accessory if you plan on time travelling. It enables you go "Back to the Future". Since you had to ask, it is apparent that you shouldn't attempt time travel yourself, without first talking to JRD. Disrupting space-time is serious stuff. Of course there are some cynical critics who say that riding a Guzzi is like a step back in time, so it may be that this undocumented feature is not as secret as I thought. Perhaps accounts of Guzzi time travel are just gossip started by 4cyl Jap bike riders to ward off the (sometimes fatal) boredom those guys suffer from. ...or is it gossip? Time travel seems to me to be the only plausible explanation for how Scud reached 183 MPH on his bike before he even got it out of the garage. GPS doesn't lie... http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19038&page=13&do=findComment&comment=221768

PM me with your email address and I will send you a stock map. But you could do better, depending on the configuration of the bike: what air filters, what crossover, exhaust...See the experience Jazzamoto reported in this post: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17865&page=17&do=findComment&comment=219607 Actually that whole topic should be quite useful for you.

Is it for the intake air temp sensor on the airbox?