MartyNZ

Some suggestions: The sound could be could be a pad vibrating, caused when one piston is not moving as much as it's paired piston. If so, then the answer is to take the wheel off, remove the pads, and clean around the pistons in the calipers, and clean/degreased the pads and pins. Free the movement of all 8 pistons by exercising them until they all move the same. Little blocks of wood 18mm X 40mm pushed into the caliper between the pistons you are not working on will help you avoid popping a piston out of the caliper accidentally as you work the brake lever. Also make sure that the disks are clean and grease free. The handlebar vibrations could be caused by a warped disk. Just spin the wheel, and check for wobble. I couldn't see any runout limit in the workshop manual, but I'd expect that anything like 1mm runout would need replacement. Also check that the disk and caliper attachment bolts are all tight. Then I'd finish with bleeding fresh fluid through the system. Also worth checking are wheel bearings. See Lucky Phil's observation here:http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18641&page=2&do=findComment&comment=210595 Another thread on this is here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13947

I dumped my bike onto it's brake pedal and broke it too. Luckily it was in the garage, and no-one else saw it happen. Scud pointed me to one for sale on eBay UK.

Eastern Beaver in Japan has a really good selection of lots of types of electrical connectors, and other cool stuff. They ship around the world. http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/connectors.html Its run by a Canadian, Jim Davis, who now lives in Japan.

I think that the length of the inlet duct, and the shape of the bellmouth at the end are important. There is a filter that will fit, see the picture in this post: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19581&page=2&do=findComment&comment=215103

Docc, have you considered this Valpolini single plate clutch? http://www.valpolini.com/index.php/home-en/prodotto?&fID=1036

See this reference: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19652&do=findComment&comment=214733

When you set preferences in GuzziDiag, you need to select from a list for a matching bike. If you select a later model bike which was fitted with a IAW15RC, then GuzziDiag will report a 15RC, but may not connect. DD selects "02 Sport Naked" instead of "04 Nero Corsa" (which was originally fitted with a 15RC) so that he can program his 15M.

Yes, as far as I can tell, it will work. There are only two variants of ECU on the V11; the 15M and the 15RC. The 15M is an earlier version without a Lambda Probe, and the 15RC is later with Lambda Probe (narrow band ) capability. Both have the same electrical plug and wiring. DD fitted a 15M in place of a 15RC on a 2004 Nero Corsa without problems. There are a few different part numbers in various parts lists shown below, but the only differences I know about are IAW 15M or 15RC. GU01729530 ECU 1999 model. Mounted plug up. GU01729531 ECU 2002 model. Mounted plug down. GU01729590 Ballabio_2003-2005 [uSA] NO Cat GU01729591 LM/Sport Naked 2003 Catalytic Converter GU01729592 Ballabio_2003-2005 Catalytic Converter

DD fitted 60mm throat K&N filters clamped onto the outside of the velocity stacks (trumpets) that are already fitted to the throttle bodies. These stacks can easily be salvaged from the air box without damaging anything. You should aim to have long intake ducts, and using the original velocity stacks won't degrade your performance as much as short intakes (unless you are aiming for very high rpms). Then you will need to consider where to fit the inlet air temp sensor. See: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19764 or http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19831 You will also need to figure out where to route the engine breather vent hose. I believe in using the stock airbox and the pleated paper filter that Moto International sells, however there is a great discussion on K&N filters here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=6815&page=1 and http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18909

I agree that this is worth a try. It has worked for me with a Bitubo steering damper. It was leaky and not working, so I pulled it apart, cleaned it, and reassembled it with the old seals and ATF fluid. It still works without leaks a year later.

I googled "square section seal EPDM" and found these guys:http://www.alliedseals.com/square.htm They don't have exactly the right size, but come close. It may be worth asking them if they will make a custom order for you. If there is a minimum buy quantity, then I'd buy a couple from you.

I've hit the Rev limiter on my bike a few times before I got used to the bike. I don't believe that there is much point being on the red line when you have 6 gears. The Ti ECU apparently has a 500 rpm higher limit than stock, but I haven't checked if this is retained in Meinolf's maps. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17133&page=2&do=findComment&comment=184022 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18440&do=findComment&comment=196546

If you turn on the headlight when it is out of the bucket, you will be able to feel how much heat is blown off the heat sink fins by the fan.

Oh, maybe I'm wrong. Does your reflector now look different than the picture in post #69? Both post #69 & 92 photos look a bit like my reflector, and I don't see anything of concern. Is there any damage to the reflector finish on the forward side?

Docc, this sounds like a solution in search of a problem. A problem that you don't have. LED lamps put out less heat than the original incandescent bulbs, so the chance of heat damage is low. If you add louvers to your shell, then the only outcome is to allow dust and moisture into a place that is normally clean and dry.Better that you worry about all the little furry critters you will blind while riding at night.

You are correct that the boiling point goes up with increasing pressure. The volatile compounds in your fuel will boil at 40°C (ish) in your tank at atmospheric pressure. The boiling (vapour lock) temperature is lower in the induction side of the pump, between the screen and the pump, and higher on the pressure side, so you have insulated the right part of the fuel system. Fuel will boil when its vapor pressure exceeds atmospheric pressure. Boiling temperatures increase with increased pressure, and decreases with decreased pressure. The different hydrocarbons in your fuel have boiling points ranging from as low -10 to over 200°C. The boiling point of your fuel will vary from season to season, the temperature, and the pressure drop in the fuel sustem. I imagine that a partially blocked fuel intake screen might make the pressure drop greater, and tendency to vapour lock worse.

Ha, that's because your bike is lying on its side.

The workshop manual says: The regulator has been calibrated in order to maintain the battery voltage at a value between 14-14.6 Volts. V11 Alternator Regulator.pdf

Hmm, 183 MPH, the bikes in neutral, rpm zero, and you took a photo. My guess is that you were coasting down a vertical cliff, riding one handed, while you took that picture. Awesome!

I don't know. That is where mine is, not perfect, but doesn't stall like yours does. See post #45 for previously mentioned thread 17560. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17560

From what you describe, it seems like there might be several problems. Once you have retorqued the heads and reset the valve clearances, it will be a little better. Then comes fuel heating. Vapour lock explains your symptoms. Perhaps the area under the tank is acting as a little heat trap. Normally there is insulating panels on the lower surfaces of the tank to limit engine heat reaching the fuel inside. This tells us that it gets hot under there. If you try moving the pump away from this area, back to its original location, or above the oil cooler, then it may be better. Insulating the low pressure fuel hose and the pump is still useful. I see that you have pod filters. What have you done with the temp sensor that was in the air box? It is important, and so is its location. See previous posts here: http://www.v11lemans...e=1?do=findComment&comment=218202 and http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19764&hl= The ECU cannot set the mixture correctly if the air inlet temp sensor is missing or located in a bad place.

A few suggestions: The backfiring then dying might be related to 1/ Valve clearances, 2/ Induction Rubber Sleeves, 3/ Ignition coil or ignition lead faults. 1/ a sputter, cough problem when very hot can be caused by too small valve clearances holding the valves open. After a run the engine is hot, but when you stop, with the engine idling, the temperature continues to rise because air cooling is limited without forward speed. This is often overlooked. Valve clearances set too loose is better than too tight. See http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19610 for valve clearance setting advice. 2/ The engine is very sensitive to air leaks in those short rubber sleeves between the cylinder heads and the throttle bodies. Cracks so small you can barely see them can let in air, though this affects low rpm the worst. Air leaks may be worse when the engine is hot. Just a guess on this one. 3/ Corrosion at the ignition lead connection to the coil can affect the engine at higher engine loads. Look for cracks in the ignition coils. Cracks can cause problems as temperatures increase. If the coil/leads/plugs are dirty, then a tiny amount of rain or mist can make the dirt conductive, so the high voltage shorts to ground instead of through the spark plug. Feel for a cool cylinder to identify which side has the problem. See also http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12326&page=7&do=findComment&comment=151210 Gio also made a good suggestion on post # 12 of this thread. Fuel vapour lock is a problem if you have an external fuel pump. On my bike, when I tried to restart after a fuel stop, the engine backfired and popped one throttle body out of the rubber sleeve. Look for fuel hoses touching the cylinder head, and think about fitting insulating sleeves or reflecting foil to the fuel pump and inlet hose. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17560 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17999

The thinner air at high altitude affects piston engine power a lot if it doesn't have a turbocharger or supercharger fitted. For example, a light aircraft piston engine full throttle power rating is:- Sea level -100 hp. - 5,000 ft - 84.6 hp. - 10,000 ft - 74.8 hp. A motorcycle will have the same loss of power as altitude increases, so if you think that your bike feels like it only has 3/4 throttle at 9,000 ft, then your butt dyno must be well calibrated. The 15M ECU has an air pressure sensor, (under that little black vent on top) but Meinolf has improved the barometric correction tables for the 15M ECU in his .bin maps he has shared around, so the automatic leaning needed as altitude increases is closer to ideal. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19815&do=findComment&comment=217735 If you try one of his maps, you may find the decel pops in the exhaust lessen, but still the laws of physics do not allow you to get sea level power at altitude unless you fit a blower. I don't believe that valve clearances will have any effect on the loss of mass airflow that is caused by low air pressure at high altitude. That example is for an old Lycoming O-235 variant. I asked a pilot about this, and he took me seriously. He wrote: "Density ratio at 9,000ft is 0.7621 so a bike down to about ¾ power is about right for normally aspirated engines. The Cessna 172RG Cutlass (180 BHP @ 2,700 RPM MSL) can make 77% BHP at 8,000 ft at 22” MAP and 2,700 RPM, and 70% BHP at 10,000 ft at 20” MAP and 2,700 RPM. Manifold pressure lapse rate in lower layers is about 1” per 1,000 ft on a standard day. Induction interference causes max MAP ISA MSL to be just over 28’’ Hg." So, yeah. That should make it clear.

Meinolf said some stuff that may help you develop your map: "The CO trim multiplier in the BIN can range from 0-200%. At 100% a CO trim value of 1 corresponds to a injector pulse width change of 4.76μs". "So many factors influence the actual opening time of an injector, a value in the fuel map is but a starting point. It goes like: ((Fuel Map value x Fuel map value factor) + (CO trim value x CO trim value factor)) x trim factorairtemp x trim factorenginetemp x trim factorairpressure x trimfactorbatteryvoltage x trim factorn = injection time". "CO trim was the only method of changing the injection time prior to the development of Beard's GuzziDiag suite. With the capabilities now available CO trim is obsolete". I hope that helps you develop your map without being too frivolous. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19652&p=214734

It looks like a Valeo starter. See repair/overhaul advice here: http://www.largiader.com/tech/valeo/ https://www.google.co.nz/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.guzziproject.nl/Manuals/VALEO%2520STARTER%2520OVERHALL.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwjd7rnb1pTUAhXEWbwKHRCDBikQFggiMAM&usg=AFQjCNE0PykoNkZx3p-k_SvjiwYL2hwlLA http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/boschvaleostarter.htm http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/valeo-starter-refresh.954653/