MartyNZ

Do you mean this?: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18532&p=209449

You can get an idea of how much you need to change your fuel map by playing with the fuel trim. I have seen +45 on one ECU. It is a crude adjustment as it adds fuel everywhere, but is quicker to play with than remapping. You should experiment with +5, +10, +15, etc until the guy behind you complains about stinky exhaust. The value of the trim is not included in the .BIN file, so if you increase injector duration in a map, then you will need to reduce the trim back to zero as you load the map. Of course fitting a wideband sensor and data logging is the only way you can find out what fuelling you really need at every condition. Then comes the interrelated ignition timing adjustment. Then you change something like a crossover or intake filter configuration. Then you start over...

A white LED will appear red inside a red tailight lens, but it will be dim. Here's why. A red lens filters out all visible light except red. Only red can pass through, and the rest is absorbed. So all the light from a red LED passes through the lens with no loss, because it is only red emission. A white LED is most likely a blue LED with a phosphor on the surface which glows (sort of bluish) white. Then only some of this white light can pass through the lens. This assumes that the bluish white light has some red component to its spectrum. There is two losses in this. Blue to white, and white filtered, to leave only red. This means that a white LED will be dim compared to a red LED when viewed outside a red taillight lens. Swooshdave is right, it is best to avoid a white taillight LED. For the same reason, LED indicator lamps inside standard indicator lenses are best if their native colour is amber/orange/yellow, rather than white.

As Docc says, it looks like you have field magnets unglued and jamming the armature. That drive cog is throwing forward as it should, but it should also spin. Normally with no load, it should spin up so fast the armature commutator (where the brushes touch) can destroy itself, so only do that check momentarily. With the armature jammed, the current goes off the charts high, and cooks things inside. Again, momentary contact is enough to test it. Here is a link which deals with the magnet problem: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19296 And here is Cash1000's experience: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19676

Since GuzziDiag connects ok, that means that your computer has the right driver for the cable. You need to do the following steps in this order (applicable to IAW15XReader v0.67 on an old WinXP netbook, but may apply to newer computers). - Computer running, no programs open. - Bike ignition key off, kill switch in run position. - Connect the cable to the ECU and power it with 12v at the bike battery. - Plug USB to the computer. Give the computer a few seconds to recognize the connection. - Start IAW15XReader. Make sure a COM ident appears in the LH top field, if not fix this. - Click the "read" button and decide where to save the file. Give it a good name. It will create a file ending with .BIN. - You then get an instruction window. Press ok, then turn on ignition key. Listen to ensure that the pump doesn't run. Download will start. It takes about 15 minutes to download. Strangely it only takes only seconds to write a .BIN file to the ECU, and minutes to read/copy from the ECU. Keep this downloaded .BIN file somewhere safe. It is your reversion plan if things go badly.

You can expect 50,000 hours from a low power LED, and about 10,000 hours from a high power LED like a headlight. That should be enough...

Well yes, triple the light from a dim Phillips 55/60 watt halogen lamp. There are brighter halogen and xenon incandescent lamps about.

I actually measured my headlight lux output before & after using a phone app, not that accurate, but it gives a comparison. BTW lux is lumens per Sq metre, so lux is a more useful unit.

Overall I'm pleased with my LED headlamp. It is a 40 watt 3000 lumen 6000 K LED with no fan, just big copper braid loops that you can adjust so they nudge against the back of the headlight bucket on the inside. If I was to buy another, it would be brighter than 3000 lumen. Not enough to melt the road seal, but enough to stun possums. The color tint is slightly bluish, so if you like a yellow headlight, you should look for a lower number than 6000 k. The beam is a bit smudgy through a Bosch H4 LH traffic lens, maybe because I had to fettle the H4 lamp adapter to throw the low beam to the left instead of to the right. All the H4 LEDs I have found are made for RH traffic, so you won't have to do this. At the risk of buying outside the USA, you could look at www.aliexpress.com and search for "H4 LED copper". https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20170521101957&SearchText=h4+led+copper You will see several choices there. I have bought many things from them, but beware, shipping to NZ takes more than a month, quality is a gamble (I have binned about 30% of things from them), and you won't be helping Trump make 'Merica great again.

I bought a pack of 10 NTC thermistors, and only used one. I can mail you one if you can hook it up youself. Just PM me with a mailing address. 3 cents plus postage adds up to "you owe me a beer". The attachment says 3,000 kOhms. Depending on how you interpret the comma, it could mean 3000 kOhms = 3MOhms, or 3 point 000 kOhms. As Kiwi_Roy said, 3kOhms NTC measured at 25 degrees C is correct. PS, I still have have an airbox on my bike. I think that there was a good reason for MG to go to all that trouble, when pod filters would be cheaper and simpler to fit.

See DD's post here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19831&page=1&do=findComment&comment=218202And this:http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19764&hl=

Can you try running the engine with the RH pushrods removed? This may help you to know if the tapping sound is related to the cam/valve gear or piston/rings/bearings. It will need quite a bit of throttle with the LH cylinder doing all the work. You can't remove the RH spark plug during this test, as air noise is loud, and will drown out the sounds you are trying to trace.

Does this topic help? http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19627

Don't forget Czakky's comment about the key switch. The ignition switch soldered joints to the wiring can break, but still touch, making an intermittent connection. Vibrations could make or break the connection. See:http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18953 and http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18606

Actually the heat output of a powerful LED is less than half the heat output of a halogen incandescent bulb. The heat is intense in a tiny localised spot on the LED, which would destroy it unless a heat sink or something similar can conduct the heat away. But overall LED heat output is much lower, so you don't need to worry about heat. If it is ok for incandescent, it is more than ok for LED. I didn't like the idea of relying on a tiny fan for cooling the LED, so I fitted an LED with a heatsink made of big copper braid loops. The steel headlight bucket barely gets warm enough to feel it, and no moving parts.

I know how you feel. A fire under the tank would be bad. Roasted nuts? I would make sure that the wiring connections are tight so no sparks could cause a problem, then keep a close eye on the pump to make sure that the leaks really have stopped. I haven't pulled a pump apart to check, but I expect the seals are directional and internal fuel pressure will improve sealing. I believe that if it doesn't leak now, it will stay fuel tight for the rest of the summer. If it leaks again the following spring after another period being dry and idle, the chances of recovering again are lower. As for that engine noise, could valve clearance on a cylinder be set off TDC?

It could be a problem with your relay bases. The terminals that connect to the relays can be pushed back, or get loose. Then road vibrations can make a connection between a relay and the terminals in the base fail intermittently. KiwiRoy wrote a helpful guide on how to fix this problem here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15718

The photo was pretty dark which made it more difficult. And that red is a tough color to match on a good day. But this should be close: Good job with photoshop there Swooshdave. My bike has a darker green tank than the Greenies, and it has faded a lot. I can see a darker area that is normally covered by the seat. This made me think about a colour change. I like the blue and white you put on the bike, but not so keen on the header colour. I may leave the guards grey/black. The headers; I may just polish them if there isn't a ceramic coating available that is a pale whitish blue. But that blue looks great. Thanks for your efforts. Marty

Hey Swooshdave, what would my V11 Sport Naked look like with these colours? Blue and white, with red guards, and indigo ceramic on the headers, like some of the V1000 Brittens. http://www.motorcyclenews.com/news/first-rides-tests/2013/january/jan2313-mcn-rides-the-britten-v1000/

I was thinking about applying for associate membership as a wannabe with a black frame. But then I realised that I wouldn't want to belong to any club that would have me as a member. (quote: Groucho Marx)

My bike pipes from the headers to the crossover measure 45-47 mm, and the outlet from the crossover steps up to 51-51.5 mm where the mufflers slip on. Nice bike BTW.

After GuzziDiag is running, and connected to your bike, you can select >View > Faults. Then you will see two panels: current faults, and stored faults. There is a 'read' button at the bottom, and you get faults listed in those panels after you press this button.These is also a 'clear' button. When you clear stored faults, the ECU fault memory is erased, and GuzziDiag gets disconnected. If you reconnect GuzziDiag, you will see the stored faults are gone, unless there is some actual faults for it to store again. You can easily trigger a stored fault when you are setting the TPS by removing the TPS piggyback cable while the ignition is on. Then it stores a "TPS" fault.

I've seen fuel leaks caused by seals shrinking after the fuel dries out in storage. Most times, the leak stops 24 hours after the seals are re-wetted with fuel, and swell back to normal size again. Have you checked the pump again? If you want to store a used pump, you could keep the seals wet with diesel or 2 stroke oil.

Tomek, there could more than one fault which causes the charging voltage to be low. 1. AC voltage from alternator low, as Chuck says. See attached page from the workshop manual for AC voltage table at three different engine speeds. 2. Burned connectors in the yellow wires from alternator to regulator. See attached picture. 3. Poor grounding / earthing at the regulator, the timing case, battery connection, or the rear of the gearbox. 4. Melted 30 amp fuse. Moving wires to a better fuse holder fixes this. See attached picture. WMV11_Alternator&Reg.pdf

See Meinolf's offer here http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19652&do=findComment&comment=214733 He has maps that can do what you want, which are in use by many people on this forum. He has improved my bike a LOT. And Dangerous's. His maps are easy to install, and work flawlessly. He refused to take any payment from me, but suggested that I donate to the GuzziDiag developer, so I did. As always, Docc is right.