MartyNZ

Hopefully now that Nero Corsa will run just as sweetly on frosty mornings as it will on hot afternoons. It looks like you found a good place to put the sensor. The cable does come with a satisfaction guarantee, so I can add 100mm to it if you think it needs to be longer. A little tie-wrap over the plug should stop it coming undone. I think I put one in that bag of bits with the cable.

Luhbo claims that the Marelli TPS is made by CTS. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8805#entry99551.. CTS claim to be a leading manufacturer of automotive sensors. I don't know any more than that. Kiwi Roy mentioned a Hall Effect TPS replacement, which is likely to be more durable, and tolerant of bad weather than a sliding resistor. Would it be more worthwhile to develop an EEPROM variant for a Hall sensor instead of a PF3C? http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19647&page=3&do=findComment&comment=217258

If CTS is the OEM for many of models of TPS, do you think they may help you with specs? http://www.ctscorp.com/products/sensors-2/throttle/ At the bottom of the page, there is a request technical information link.

See http://archive.guzzitech.com/HD-TPS-Jeff_B.htmlNone of the links work, but Jeff's email might still be good. Also http://mphcycles.com/the-pdf-mike-sent-that-i-dont-know-what-its-about-write-a-real-title/

Is this any help? Towards the end of post 276. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4152&page=19&do=findComment&comment=42022

Not something I did today, but something awesome Scud can do with his fleet of V11s.

Ha, Cow Space. http://www.visualware.co.jp/cowspace/guzzi.htm My Japanese is weak, so I opened the website in Google Chrome and it translated it for me.

If you only have a problem on the upshift, and not downshift, is it possible that the return limit eccentric adjuster needs adjusting? http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19547

I noticed that JBastida in Spain used this alternative spring on his bike in 2012. It looks like a good idea. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16930&page=2&do=findComment&comment=188386

Now you have me worried. My transmission output shaft has similar end float, but only if nudged with a screwdriver. I can't move it by hand with the driveshaft connected to the bevel box. I see that the workshop manual shows a shim and "half rests" at the forward end of the shaft, and specific dimensions for the shaft assembly including the bellville washer stack. Gearbox Ch N, Pg 18 refers. Perhaps the answer is in there?

Did you fit new o-rings on those two bobbins/connecting pipes which connect the oil cooler to the filter/regulator unit inside? This is in the sump spacer at the front of the engine. Those 4 O-rings probably don't feel much pressure till the engine gets hot, but any leak is bad.

See some previous talk about this subject here http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19154&do=findComment&comment=206187 I don't know how to use a wideband sensor with a WM15RC, but I'd like to know more if you develop something.

I can tell you that a Nero Corsa originally fitted with a WM15RC will work fine with a WM15M fitted in place of the RC. Especially when the M has Meinolf the magician's map loaded. We did this because Meinolf could help us with a super .bin file for a M, but not for RC. The O2 sensor is still connected to the wiring loom, but the M ECU cannot use the sensor output. The M ECU is easy to reprogram, but I don't know if anyone has converted it to function as a RC. Even if it could be done with software alone, without hardware changes, why would you want to? You can get quite good performance out of an M ECU. Wasn't the narrow band sensor only fitted to allow Euro emissions compliance?

Did you read Middle Age Warrior's post? He found a crack in his gearbox casing eventually but many other suggestions there may help you. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19792 And here is a picture of the gearbox breather vent on Scud's bike. It is just above midway between the gearbox clutch slave cylinder & output shaft http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/uploads/post-9991-0-06796100-1487988277.jpg

Have you done anything to affect the valve timing, like a new timing chain & tensioner? I managed to mistime one camshaft on a DOHC engine, and it ran sluggishly one tooth retarded. Mistiming a Guzzi camshaft would be much worse, as it affects both intake & exhaust valves timing, and ignition timing via the phonic wheel. Another thought, GuzziDiag will report the Crank Position Sensor as failed if the gap is slightly too large. Setting the gap correctly with a thinner shim made GuzziDiag happy again.

I'd pull the plugs from the ECU to the coils at the coils out. Then you won't have so much risk.

Motortouring, you are correct that some types of lithium batteries can be hazardous. We have all heard of Samsung and Apple phones catching fire. We need to consider the many types of lithium chemistry batteries, some safe, some (lithium polymer) so unstable you only get them in radio control toys. The brand of battery I put in my bike uses LiFePO4 cells which have much lower performance than phone batteries, but significantly higher stability and safety. This is shown in that excellent website you gave us links to. http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/types_of_lithium_ion That's why I feel safe enough to sit on that battery on the road.

You may be right, but so far there are no signs of a problem on my bike. The Shorai NZ dealer has a written guarantee on the battery so long as I use the recommended battery for the bike. Their website makes this claim: "Shorai LFX™ batteries have the same charge requirements as AGM lead-acid batteries and all modern vehicle charging systems work with Shorai LFX™ batteries." US website- http://shoraipower.com/faq http://shoraipower.com/about-us NZ website- http://www.shorai.co.nz/blog/category/battery-technical-info/ Your question made me go check voltages, so I stunk up the garage running the bike inside because I was too lazy to push it outside in the heat. I measured at the battery terminals. After start the volts were slowly climbing, but I took the numbers from the first 30 seconds. 13.37 v Resting 13.20 v Ignition & headlight on 11.58 v Cranking 14.08 v 1000 rpm 14.22 v 2000 rpm 14.23 v 3000 rpm 14.25 v 4000 rpm I'm happy with these figures, so I suspect that any reported regulator problems on other bikes probably relate to poor grounding, fuse or wiring, not the Shorai battery.

I finally fitted a lithium iron phosphate Shorai LFX21L6-BS12 battery to my bike. I like it. It is very slightly smaller than the previous battery, so is a better fit with clearance off the frame and seat. The bike cranked noticeably faster with it too. It came in a box which was packed with lots of shapes and thicknesses of self adhesive foam so it can be made to fit snugly into the battery cradle. I did buy Shorai's dedicated charger for it, as ideally it benefits from a balance charge every year or so. Shorai does say that a normal charger is fine, but desulfitation mode will damage it. If you can tolerate the eye-watering price, then you could consider it.

Could the injectors be leaking? You can check this by releasing the velocity stacks off the throttle bodies, and sliding them back into the airbox. Then you can use a mirror to look into the throttle bodies. With the throttle wide open, turn on the key and look for dribbling from the nose of the injector during the few seconds while the pump runs.

The symptoms you describe all suggest that the clutch is dragging, and a small amount of wear may fix it. Can you slip the clutch under power, with the front wheel nudged into the corner of the garage? Just bedding the friction material may be enough to help. Don't do that for more than a few seconds at a time to avoid overheating, because warped plates will make things worse. If that doesn't work, then adding a washer sounds like a fine idea. An off the wall thought, can you temporarily fit the clutch hose to the front brake master cylinder? The greater volume of fluid from that larger cylinder may push the slave an extra 0.6mm, so you can test the extra washer theory. Although bleeding the brake and clutch again may be more hassle than just adding a washer.

Kiwi Roy is right. The same warning about not exceeding 6 volts is in the V11 workshop manual. However, when I tried 6 v, the injector didn't open. 12 volts worked, but I only applied power for 1 second bursts. Knowing that injectors are normally powered for milliseconds every second revolution, it is clear that they are not rated for continuous power. I haven't burned out any injector yet, using 12 volts for 1-2 seconds, but I don't know how close I am to damaging it.

I just measured the relay temps on my VIN 03 Sport Naked, and found this: First column Omron G8HN-1C2T-R-DC12 all 5 positions Second column OMRON G8HN-1C2T-R-DC12 in position 1-4 & G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12 in position 5. position 1》 37°C---38°C position 2》 51°C --51°C position 3》 52°C --54°C position 4》 58°C --54°C position 5》 63°C --50°C The temp for the Omron G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12 relay seems to be better, just as Docc's research tells us in post 20 above, and here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19755&page=5&do=findComment&comment=216605

Have you taken another look at the plugs now? Black smoke out the exhaust means soot at the plugs. The atomized fuel injected at the wrong time may settle in the intake area, so droplets get into the cylinder instead of mist. A brush over the plug centre electrodes and a fast run could help clear the soot.

It is possible to cross connect the injector plugs and the plugs to the ignition coils. It's hard to imagine the engine running with the ignition cable crossed, but I expect that it is possible for the engine to run (badly) with the plugs on the injectors crossed. I remember seeing "SX" printed on the sleeve of the LH injector cable in small white lettering on my bike, but nothing on the RH cable. Left and right = sinistra e destra.