MartyNZ

My Brother-in-law visited, so he rented a Triumph Bonneville for the day, and we went to Akaroa. A four hour trip took us all day, as we stopped for lunch at the Hilltop Tavern, and visited little bays and coves on the way. https://goo.gl/maps/ZvhR9uPrjUG2

What is the temperature in your garage? Would that goo drain out if you warmed the gearbox with a portable heater?

You suggestions seem good to me. I'd be reluctant to get any water inside the gearbox. Bearings can get little pits on the races where water is trapped, then you have ugly noises and metal on the drain plug magnet. Washing the selector is fine, as you can heat it and dry it easily.

If it was mine, I'd flush it out with the cheapest solvent available - petrol (gasoline).

I got the o-ring seals from Moto International for my injectors. The guy just grabbed an injector from the workshop, and selected seals from a box of assorted seals. I thought "I could have done that myself". But not the wide flat seal in the middle of each injector. I couldn't find a source, so I cleaned them, looked for cracks by stretching them a little, then lubed & refitted. I did sand down the top and bottom faces of the plastic Injector Housing Blocks so that there was some clamping of the o-rings when the screws were tightened. I did this to make sure that the injectors don't jiggle too much under manifold vacuum pulses. BTW, do you want to borrow an injector cleaning kit so you can backwash and check spray pattern?

No continuity on my bike. It has 3 in the VIN number, but looks like an 02 model.

I agree, Staburags grease would be great for the spline couplings at each end of the driveshaft. It would squeeze out to allow the splines to clamp together tightly, but still exclude air & water, to reduce fretting corrosion. Drylube in that joint could crush away to allow the spline clamping to loosen, and rapid wear might be next. The spline in the middle of the driveshaft needs regular thin grease, as it slides a lot, and clearances are too tight for a layer of dry lube. The spline from the bevel box to the cush drive can benefit from both dry lube on all contact faces, and when cured, Staburags or similar HT moly grease. It is not a tight spline, so a buildup of drylube is a good thing. My bike is very worn there so lube can only delay the inevitable parts replacements. But still it is plastered with drylube, including the cush drive parts & rubbers, then the spline is greased. CRC Dry Moly is probably fine, especially for your rear wheel cush drive spline, since you can reapply at every tire change. I don't know how durable it is longer term in the clutch, which is harder to access, but still anything is better than nothing. When I get to the clutch on my bike, I will drylube the clutch parts just as Tim described.

Can you say more about that? I mean, would you basically spray the whole inside of the flywheel and the transmission input gear? And do you mean anti-seize paste - like the silver (or copper) stuff you put on bolt threads? My BMW specifies a Staburags (NBU 30 PTM) grease for the splines, which is so thick and sticky you have to brush it on. But the splines on the BMW are tiny in comparison to the Guzzi splines. I have some of that. I just put a clutch back together yesterday, but didn't lube it. It's easy-access now... any extra advice appreciated. Gstallon's comment about dry film lubricant is good advice. I've been spraying every spline and sliding surface I uncover with molybdenum disulphide solid film lubricant labelled MIL-PRF-46147D. Everlube makes a spray called Perma-Slik G which meets MIL-PRF-46147C. http://www.skygeek.com/everlube-perm-silk-g-air-dry-mos2-solid-film-lubricant-16-oz-tube-mil-l-23398d-ppsgae.html It is an air drying, MoS2 based solid film lubricant in an epoxy binder system, giving low friction, good corrosion resistance, and high load carrying capacity. Even better is Everlube 620, but the coating needs to be baked at 150ish degrees C, which is inconvenient for some parts. This type of coating won't give any protection from hammering loads, but will extend the life of sliding surfaces. Chuck's comment about using neutral at stop lights is good advice on avoiding hammering loads in the clutch. After the coating is cured, splines still benefit from high temp grease or HT Grease with MoS2 added (but not in the clutch of course). This grease is important to protect against fretting corrosion. I looked up STABURAGS NBU 30 PTM to find out more about it. It looks like a perfect spline grease, but I'd be reluctant to put it in the clutch area as it could attract abrasive dust and become grinding paste. Plus you wouldn't want it to get on the friction faces.

Hi DD, If your sensor is feeling hot air off the engine, the ECU will lean the fuel more than it should. Here are a couple of comments about location of the intake air sensor with pod filters. Ed Rosso extended the sensor cable to put the sensor further back into intake air. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18906&do=findComment&comment=203711 Kiwi Roy moved the sensor up near the steering head. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18960&do=findComment&comment=203548 I can splice in extra length to your cable if you want to try one of these ideas.

Peter Kelly of Motokiwi (http://www.motokiwi.co.nz/motoguzzi-news.html) wrote this: "...of great interest this year has been the project put together by Mike Noonan. Mike has built a V35 Guzzi to take on the 350cc world record at Bonneville Salt Flats Speed Week. Mike has developed and fitted a turbo charger and a fuel injection system to this machine. Conditions were too wet this year to run at Bonneville and the event was cancelled. However Mike and his team did get to squeeze an unofficial run on some fairly loose salt and managed to get up to speeds well above the official record. At this stage I'm not sure what his plans are, but hopefully they'll be able to return next year and have another go at knocking it off." https://youtu.be/CrzzmELmRq0 The next Bert Munro?

I'm very sorry to read of your situation, and thanks for sharing your wisdom.

The Eagle badge is listed as GU02517700 "adhesive label" in the parts manual. The same part is on the pork chops, and the upper fork clamp. Brace yourself for the price though. Marty

Right.Just remember "ALF" (Aft Looking Forward). When you are behind the bike looking forward, your left and the bike's left are the same. It works on boats, planes, cars, bikes and women.

Happy New Year to you "north of the equator, east of the date line" folks too! Good job on the paint, Tim! It looks much better than before. Despite your warning not to, I think I'll do the same to my bike next winter. And now is a good time to put level markings on your thermometer dipstick, while you can see it from below, poking down through the plate. That is if you haven't already (I haven't on mine yet). See also this post from Ryland3410. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13096&hl=%2Bdipstick+%2Bmark

Are there any dyno charts that compare this quantitatively on a single bike? It's just that there are so many parameters between two separate bikes' *feel.* Oh yes, on the controlled environment of Coaltrack Road Raceway, Dangerous used a time honored & proven power assessment tool. That was mostly roaring down the road and comparing the result against a calibration chart that read: Yawn, meh, ok, alright, great, awesome, f?#k. Not very accurate, but improves with the retelling. Ah, technically speaking, then: palliative resolution of cognitive dissonance. And don't ignore the performance enhancements gained from washing your bike. However DD may be able to advise you on pallating dissonance. Of course, I shouldn't joke, it is DD's bike that is stuck in a shed. He won't think it is funny at all.

Are there any dyno charts that compare this quantitatively on a single bike? It's just that there are so many parameters between two separate bikes' *feel.* Oh yes, on the controlled environment of Coaltrack Road Raceway, Dangerous used a time honored & proven power assessment tool. That was mostly roaring down the road and comparing the result against a calibration chart that read: Yawn, meh, ok, alright, great, awesome, f?#k. Not very accurate, but improves with the retelling.

There is a lot of misinformation available on oil additives. Some ZDDP in the oil is good, but more is not better. Any good quality oil, changed regularly, along with the filter, will give your engine a long life. Penrite, an Australian oil manufacturer, has a helpful writeup about zinc / ZDDP / dialkyldithiophosphate additive in oil. They begin by saying: "There is a lot of hysteria over zinc levels in oils, especially in the latest specification engine oils. Many of these myths and stories are unfounded. To understand more read the latest up to date information here:" http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/1Zinc%20Myths%20&%20Legends%20Nov%202014.pdf Unless you have found a source of leaded fuel, then you don't need the high zinc levels in SG oil. Leaded fuel had scavenger chemicals added to clean away lead deposits, but unfortunately also cleaned away the zinc protection, so extra zinc was added. This was 4 decades ago, but fuel has changed now, and the active scavengers are no longer used. You may already suspect that the "flat tappets need SG oil" is built on a myth. Cams and cam followers need lubrication, but not in any different way than overhead cam follower buckets need lubrication. Poor manufacturing, cheap metallurgy & inadequate heat treatment, are usually the cause of cam follower failures, and there is little you can do to overcome that with an oil additive. There are several interesting write-ups on oil in this forum, everyone has a favourite for their bike, but I don't know of any back to back through life comparison of wear rates of different oils. So pick your favorite, remembering that cheap oil needs to be changed more often than the better full synthetic type IV or V oils. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19575&hl=penrite EDIT: Guzziology makes clear statements, and you won't go wrong with Dave Richardson's advice. He says: 1: Use SG rated oil. 2: Synthetic oils are better but not cost effective for frequent oil changes. 3: Any additional additives are bad for your oil performance. Item 1 is not bad advice, but fuels and oils have improved since SG was a current specification.

That front crossover on 03/04 models is supposed to improve mid range power. Do you remember saying that my bike had a more noticeable power band than yours, with the same top end power. Your bike is helped by that front crossover. It is probably worth keeping, especially since your bike now has a combined rear crossover/muffler. You could try making temporary gaskets using wraps of glass fibre cloth interleaved with red RTV. Let me know if you need some glass cloth. To buy new crossover gaskets GU9113230, two places in USA I know of have them. Moto International has them for US $15 each. https://www.motointernational.com/store/product/GU91113230 Harper's has them for US $17 each. https://www.harpermoto.com/front-crossover-gasket-v11-91113230.html

I've recovered bits I lost in long grass by dabbing around desperately with a magnet.

I have an identical injector cleaning kit available for loan to southern hemisphere Guzzi owners. You just need to send it back to me, or let me know who you sent it on to. Scud, the big question: did you compare spray patterns before and after reverse flushing? Those injectors can be difficult to get out, so was it all worth the trouble? I didn't think to check before I back-flushed my injectors, so I don't know. And just to confirm your Guzzi credentials, the hammer is just out of view in that picture, right? You don't want a moderator asking questions.

Yes, I think so. Anything that keeps water out would be helpful. Especially if there is enough around the head to ooze out as you tighten the bolt.I avoid copper anti seize except on exhaust clamps. For general casing bolts I use Parker thread Lube or LPS500. If you must use stainless steel bolts on aluminum castings, the best product is Duralac (in the UK) http://www.intek-uk.com/duralac_compound_dtd-369b.html or Mastinox (in the USA) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mastinox-D40-Yellow-6856K-160mL-MIL-P-8116B-FREE-SHIPPING-/322109920293 . Zinc chromate and strontium chromate are both quite toxic so wash your hands after using it. Also they are both yellow, so you need to wipe off any excess or your engine will look bad.

Stainless steel is corrosion resistant itself, but if two conditions are present, it causes galvanic corrosion on aluminum. These are:1- electrical connection between the two metals (ie bolted together). 2- an electrolyte touching the two metals (ie salty road spray). A grease like vaseline can keep the electrolyte out from between the metals. Stopping the electrical connection in threads is harder. Durable designs usually use cadmium plated steel bolts on aluminum castings to reduce the chance of corrosion. Zinc chromate or zinc rich primer on the SS bolt under the head will help too. Cadmium plating appearance becomes shabby as the plating is used up in sacrificial protection, so SS bolts look like good replacements at first glance, but over time SS attacks instead of protects. The rate of galvanic corrosion depends on how far apart the metals are on the electronegativity scale shown in this link: http://www.ssina.com/corrosion/galvanic.html My valve covers are attached with ss screws, but are assembled with lots of grease.

This is picture of Joe Kenny's "standard with holes" head guard. There are other versions over in that store in Australia. Link below. (Slow website warning). http://www.motociclo.com.au/products/product-type/general-service/general-accessories/crash-barsengine-protect JesterGrin, Good question on the construction and fastening of the head guards. I can think of two possible answers. 1. The Guards are designed to be sacrificial in a slide, protecting the engine. Bending, scraping or snapping a guard absorbs energy that you don't want transferred to the cylinder head. So you want guards to be weaker than adjacent expensive parts. 2. The valve cover screws are all the same length. If you made a guard that needed longer screws, there is a chance that someone may mix the screws; fit a short screw in your guard and a long screw somewhere else. This could mean a leaky valve cover as the short screw strips the top threads, and the long screws bottom on fins without clamping the cover. BTW, I have an old plug & lead tucked away in the monkey paw trap, just in case...

Nice job Neil. As a minor aside, the shop manual warns against leaving the alternator stator off the rotor for too long, as the permanent magnets can weaken.

I see Scud's suggestion of the diamond pattern on the belly fairing. Your painter doesn’t mess around. Looks good!